Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 38

[223] ANOTHER [sauce]

_ALITER_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER, WINE [1] MOISTENED WITH BROTH. ADD WINE AND BROTH TO TASTE. MASK THE WOOD PIGEON OR SQUAB WITH IT. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.

[1] Tac., Tor. _laserum, vinum_; G.-V. _l. vivum_.

[2] Wanting in Tor.

V

[224] SAUCE FOR DIFFERENT BIRDS _IUS IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS_

PEPPER, DRY c.u.mIN, CRUSHED. LOVAGE, MINT, SEEDLESS RAISINS OR DAMASCUS PLUMS, LITTLE HONEY, MYRTLE WINE TO TASTE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL.

HEAT AND WHIP IT WELL WITH CELERY AND SATURY [1].

[1] For centuries sauce whips were made of dry and green twigs, the bark of which was carefully peeled off.

[225] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR FOWL _ALITER IUS IN AVIBUS_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, FENNEL BLOSSOMS [1] MOISTENED WITH WINE; ADD ROASTED NUTS FROM PONTUS [2] OR ALMONDS, A LITTLE HONEY, WINE, VINEGAR, AND BROTH TO TASTE. PUT OIL IN A POT, AND HEAT AND STIR THE SAUCE, ADDING GREEN CELERY SEED, CAT-MINT; CARVE THE FOWL AND COVER WITH THE SAUCE [3].

[1] Dann. _Cnecus_.

[2] Turkish hazelnuts.

[3] Tor. continuing without interruption.

[226] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWL _IUS CANDIDUM IN AVEM ELIXAM_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, c.u.mIN, CELERY SEED, TOASTED NUTS FROM PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, ALSO Sh.e.l.lED PINE NUTS, HONEY [1] A LITTLE BROTH, VINEGAR AND OIL.

[1] Tor. _vel_; List. _mel_.

[227] GREEN SAUCE FOR FOWL _IUS VIRIDE IN AVIBUS_

PEPPER, CARRAWAY, INDIAN SPIKENARD, c.u.mIN, BAY LEAVES, ALL KINDS OF GREEN HERBS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, LITTLE BROTH, AND OIL.

[228] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED GOOSE _IUS CANDIDUM IN ANSERE ELIXO_

PEPPER, CARRAWAY, c.u.mIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, ONION, LASER ROOT, TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL [1]

[1] A "sweet-sour" white sauce with herbs and spices is often served with goose in northern Germany.

[229] TREATMENT OF STRONG SMELLING BIRDS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION _AD AVES HIRCOSAS _[1]_ OMNI GENERE_

FOR BIRDS OF ALL KINDS THAT HAVE A GOATISH [1] SMELL [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, DRY MINT, SAGE, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST, MUSTARD. THE BIRDS WILL BE MORE LUSCIOUS AND NUTRITIOUS, AND THE FAT PRESERVED, IF YOU ENVELOP THEM IN A DOUGH OF FLOUR AND OIL AND BAKE THEM IN THE OVEN [3].

[1] Probably game birds in an advanced stage of "_haut got_" (as the Germans use the antiquated French term), or "_mortification_" as the French cook says. Possibly also such birds as crows, black birds, buzzards, etc., and fish-feeding fowl. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that the refrigeration facilities of the ancients were not too good and that fresh goods spoiled quickly.

Hence, perhaps, excessive seasoning, at least, as compared to our modern methods.

List. _aves piscivoras_; Hum. thinks the birds to be downright spoiled: _olidas, rancidas, & grave olentes_.

[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] For birds with a goatish smell Apicius should have repeated his excellent formula in ? No. 212, the method of parboiling the birds before final coction, if, indeed, one cannot dispense with such birds altogether.

The above recipe does not in the least indicate how to treat smelly birds. Wrapping them in dough would vastly increase the ill-savour.

As for game birds, we agree with most connoisseurs that they should have just a suspicion of "_haut got_"--a condition of advanced mellowness after the _rigor mortis_ has disappeared.

[230] ANOTHER TREATMENT OF ODOR _ALIUD CONTRA UIROSUM ODOREM_ [1]

[IF THE BIRDS SMELL, [1]] STUFF THE INSIDE WITH CRUSHED FRESH OLIVES, SEW UP [the aperture] AND THUS COOK, THEN RETIRE THE COOKED OLIVES.

[1] Tor.; other texts _aliter avem_, i.e. that the olive treatment is not necessarily confined to ill smelling birds alone.

VI

[231] FOR FLAMINGO [and Parrot]

_IN PHNICOPTERO_

SCALD [1] THE FLAMINGO, WASH AND DRESS IT, PUT IT IN A POT, ADD WATER, SALT, DILL, AND A LITTLE VINEGAR, TO BE PARBOILED. FINISH COOKING WITH A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER, AND ADD SOME REDUCED MUST TO GIVE IT COLOR. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, c.u.mIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT, RUE, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD DATES, AND THE FOND OF THE BRAISED BIRD, THICKEN, [strain] COVER THE BIRD WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVE.

PARROT IS PREPARED IN THE SAME MANNER.

[1] Prior to removing the feathers; also singe the fine feathers and hair.

[232] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_

ROAST THE BIRD. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, SESAM [1] PARSLEY, MINT, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST TO TASTE.

[1] Tor. _sesamum, defrutum_; G.-V. _s. frictum_.

VII