Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 47

[1] _Tractam_, probably with a starch added, or else it is a nut custard, practically a repet.i.tion of ? Nos.

129 and 143.

[299] ANOTHER SWEET _ALITER DULCIA_

TAKE A PREPARATION SIMILAR [1] [to the above] AND IN THE HOT WATER [bath or double boiler] MAKE A VERY HARD PORRIDGE OF IT. THEREUPON SPREAD IT OUT ON A PAN AND WHEN COOL CUT IT INTO HANDY PIECES LIKE SMALL COOKIES. FRY THESE IN THE BEST OIL, TAKE THEM OUT, DIP INTO [hot] HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.

[1] This confirms the a.s.sumption that some flour or meal is used in ? No. 298 also without which this present preparation would not "stand up."

[2] It is freely admitted that the word "pepper" not always stands for the spice that we know by this name.

Cf. note 2 to ? No. 295 _et al._

[300] A STILL BETTER WAY _ALITER_

IS TO PREPARE THIS WITH MILK INSTEAD OF WATER.

[301] CUSTARD _TYROPATINAM_

ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS DISH AND SWEETEN IT WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT [1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A PINT [2] DISSOLVE 3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON A SLOW FIRE [in hot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [3].

[1] _s.e.xtarium._

[2] _ad heminam._

[3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries say that the _tyropatina_ is a kind of cheese cake. It must be borne in mind, however, that the ancient definition of "custard" is "egg cheese," probably because of the similarity in appearance and texture.

Cf. ? Nos. 129 and 143.

[302] OMELETTE SOUFFLeE [1]

_OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE_

FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF OIL WELL BEATEN, TO MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD THE EGG PREPARATION, WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place it in the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN IT OUT INTO A SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3]

AND SERVE [4].

[1] Dann. misled by the t.i.tle, interprets this dish as "Floating Island"; he, the chef, has completely misunderstood the ancient formula.

[2] Tor. _sinas bullire_--which is correct. List.

_facies ut bulliat_--which is monstrous.

[3] G.-V.

[4] Tor. continues without interruption.

[303] CHEESE AND HONEY _MEL ET CASEUM_ [1]

PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND BROTH [brine] OR WITH SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER [2].

[1] G.-V. _Melca ... stum_; List. _mel castum_, refined honey; Tac. _Mel caseum_; Tor. _mel, caseum_. Cf. ?

No. 294.

[2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives; sometimes a little sugar.

XIV

[304] BULBS [1]

_BULBOS_

SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE c.u.mIN SPRINKLED OVER.

[1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw sliced, with the above dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to ? No. 307.

[305] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_

SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; THEREUPON FRY THEM IN OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Tor. _tundes_; probably a typographical error, as this should read _fundis_, i.e. _infundis_. Wanting in the other texts.

[306] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_

COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PUReE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL.

[1] _Tundes_, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of ? No. 305, repeated by Tor.

[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1]

_VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT_

COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER.

[1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and business-like recital of recipes is broken by some interesting quotation or remark.

Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a posterior reader.

[2] The texts: _qui Veneris ostium quaerunt_--"seek the mouth of Venus."

This favorite superst.i.tion of the ancients leads many writers, as might be expected, into fanciful speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: _Veneram mire stimulant, unde et salaces a Martiali vocantur._ 1.

XIII, Ep. 34:

_c.u.m sit a.n.u.s conjunx, c.u.m sint tibi mortua membra Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes._