Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 61

[422] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SARDINES [1]

_IUS ALIUD IN SARDA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT [2] COOKED, ONION [chopped], HONEY, VINEGAR, DILUTE WITH OIL, SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED HARD EGGS.

[1] Another _Vinaigrette_.

[2] Tac. and Tor. _mentam aridam coctam_, dry mint cooked, which is reasonable, to soften it. Hum., G.-V.

dry mint, cooked onion; there is no necessity to cook the onion. As a matter of fact, it should be chopped raw in this dressing. The onion is wanting in Tac. and Tor.

[423] SAUCE FOR BROILED BABY TUNNY _IUS IN CORDULA a.s.sA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, RUE, FIGDATE [or its wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE. ALSO SUITABLE FOR SARDINES.

[424] SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET _IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, c.u.mIN, ONION, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.

[1] Tor. _calva_; G.-V. _calvam_. Does not exist. Hum.

_calva legendum puto salvia_.

[425] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET _ALITER IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_

PEPPER, ORIGANY, ROCKET, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, OIL, VINEGAR AND MUSTARD.

[1] Same as above.

XI [1]

[426] SAUCE FOR CATFISH, BABY TUNNY AND TUNNY _IUS IN SILURO _[2]_ IN PELAMYDE _[3]_ ET IN THYNNO_ [4]

TO MAKE THEM MORE TASTY USE [5] PEPPER, LOVAGE, c.u.mIN, ONIONS, MINT, RUE, SAGE [6] DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.

[1] The twelve chapters of Book IX, as shown in the beginning of the text are here increased to fourteen by G.-V., to wit, XII, _IUS IN MULLO TARICHO_ and XIII, _SALSUM SINE SALSO_, but these are more properly included in the above chapter XI, as does Tor. All of the above fish were salt, and probably were important commercial articles. The _silurus_, for instance, is best in the river Danube in the Balkans, while the red mullet, as seen in ? No. 427 came from the sea of Galilee. Cf. ? Nos. 144, 149.

[2] _Silurus_, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish, in the U. S. called horn-pout--a large catfish.

[3] _Pelamis_, a tunny before it is a year old.

[4] Tunny, Tunafish.

[5] Tor. wanting in the others.

[6] Cf. note 1 to ? No. 424.

XII

[427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET _IUS IN MULLO _[1]_ TARICHO_ [2]

IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, DATES, GROUND MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL, AND POUR OVER THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING SALT [4].

[1] Tor. _mulo_, the red sur-mullet--a very esteemed fish.

[2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee.

Salt mullet as prepared at Tarichea was known as _Tarichus_. This became finally a generic name for all kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from elsewhere. We have an interesting a.n.a.logy in "Finnan Haddie," smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, corrupted into "Finnan," and now used for any kind of smoked Haddock. Cf. ? Nos. 144, 149.

[3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of condiments for salt fish.

[4] List. uses this last sentence as the t.i.tle for the next formula, implying that more salt be added to the salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be added which of course, is correct.

XIII

ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?]

_ALITER, SINE SALSO_ [1]

[428] FISH LIVER PUDDING _SALSUM, SINE SALSO_ [2]

COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, EITHER BROTH OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND, IF YOU LIKE, PRESS INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking]

SPRINKLE WITH VIRGIN OIL [7].

[1] Tor.

[2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning may be, "Salt Fish, without salt pork" as salt fish is frequently served with bacon.

[3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A paste or forcemeat of the livers and fish were made.

[4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the liver of salt meat is used, excepting if the liver of hare, etc., predominated.

[5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor.

[6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze, artistically finished, same as we possess them today; such moulds were made in various styles and shapes. Cf.

? No. 384.

[7] This is an attempt to make a "fish" of livers, not so much with the intention to deceive as to utilize the livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish and a most ingenious device, requiring much skill.

This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from being extravagant as it is reputed to be, it is economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the utilization of good things which are often discarded as worthless.