Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 68

ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN A Ca.s.sEROLE WITH [cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL, SET TO BOIL. NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the ca.s.serole, eliminating the juice] [2].

[1] The dish resembles a chartreuse.

[2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded.

Ia

[469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE _CHARTREUSE_ _ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM_

CRUSH WHATEVER QUANt.i.tY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE, CORIANDER LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN THE HOT ASHES, BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff unmould on a platter] DECORATE, POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1].

[1] Either the vegetables and chicken of ? No. 468 are combined with this dressing or a puree of the above cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room for this choice; but there can be no doubt but what we have here a formula for a vegetable puree or a pudding, a genuine "Chartreuse," such as were prepared in the fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The "Chartreuse,"

then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the monastery by that name, the Carthusians.

II

[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE _CACCABINAM _[1]_ FUSILEM_

[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould or in a ca.s.serole]. CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE, 1 PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight]

EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil]

AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the ca.s.serole, or carefully unmould the dish on a service platter] [2].

[1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms, _salacaccabia_ and _caccabina_ have degenerated here. In these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to the former meaning, the original "salt meat boiled in a pot." Such changes are very often observed in the terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language.

They make the definition of terms and the cla.s.sification of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places and create misunderstandings that only an expert can explain.

[2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in unmoulding it without damaging the structure.

III

[471] BRAISED CUTLETS _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]

PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] OF BROTH, A LIKE QUANt.i.tY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3].

[1] Derived from _garum_ or _nogarum_, the wine sauce. These are supposed to be meat b.a.l.l.s or cutlets prepared with garum, but the _garum_ is not mentioned in the formula. This also ill.u.s.trates the interesting etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day ancient language because it is a typical technical term, the much complained-of _lingua culinaria_. We find, therefore, that--at least in this instance--_garum_ no longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, _garus_, but that _garum_ has become a generic term for certain kinds of sauces. Danneil renders _garatus_ with _lasaratus_, which is clearly out of place.

[2] In this instance, and in several others, and also according to Sueton. Caes. fluids were weighed. What idea could be more practical, useful and more "modern" than this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence have thus far made futile all efforts towards more progressive methods in handling food stuffs, particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them by their weight. Present market methods are very chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of the buyer.

[3] The original: _et sic frigis_.--_Frigo_ is equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here has taken on a broader meaning, because the "frying"

process is clearly out of question here. It appears that the terminology of _frigo_ and that of _a.s.so_ in the next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling, roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to various interpretations.

IV

[472] ROAST MEAT b.a.l.l.s _OFELLAS a.s.sAS_

MEATb.a.l.l.s [previously saute], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE IN A SHALLOW STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE SAME SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.

V

[473] GLAZED CUTLETS _ALITER OFELLAS_

THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED.

[1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III.

[2] _unguantur._

[3] Dann. oil; G.-V. _melle_--_honey_. It is quite common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust.

VI

[474] MEAT b.a.l.l.s WITH LASER _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]

LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL THEREIN [2].

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III.

[2] Dann. adds c.u.min, due perhaps to the faulty reading of the sentence, _misces c.u.m his omnibus tritis_, etc.

VII

[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS_ [1]

COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH c.u.mIN, HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE.

[1] _rapa_, _rapum_: white turnip, rape; "turniped."