The Spell of Japan Part 10

s.h.i.+nto is the native religion of j.a.pan, and both because it is so little known outside of that country and because a study of it goes so far to explain many national characteristics, it seems worth while to consider it at some length. The word s.h.i.+nto may be translated as the Way of the G.o.ds, and defined in brief as a wors.h.i.+p of ancestors, especially of the Emperor and his forebears. Human beings are believed to be the children of the suns.h.i.+ne, and sin is hardly recognized.

s.h.i.+nto is a combination of primitive instincts. It is based on hero wors.h.i.+p, and it has myriads of deities, who live in every conceivable object, from the spirit of the sewing-needle to the G.o.ds of thunder and lightning, or of the sun, moon and stars. "The weakness of s.h.i.+nto," says Dr. Nitobe, the eloquent exponent of j.a.panese beliefs, "lies in the non-recognition of human frailty, of sin." The sum total of its moral teaching is this, "Be pure in heart and body."

The s.h.i.+nto idea seems to be that it is only necessary to act out the natural impulses of the heart in order to be pure. But where there is no sense of sin, there can be no consciousness of need, no incentive to higher things. s.h.i.+nto lacks ideals. It allies itself with the practical affairs of every-day life, inculcating industry and personal cleanliness, some of its sects even prescribing mountain-climbing and abdominal respiration as religious duties. But, as it has no theology, it offers no explanation of the great problems of the universe; and, having no sacred writings, it has no authority on which to base a system of ethics. Theology and the spiritual element in religion came to j.a.pan with Buddhism; while ethics was the gift of Confucianism.

The first sign of a s.h.i.+nto temple is the _torii_. This peculiar gateway, though originally erected only by the s.h.i.+ntoists, has been adopted by the Buddhists, who have changed it by turning up the corners of the top beam and adding inscriptions and ornament. Pa.s.sing under the _torii_ you stand before the huge gate, generally painted red, guarded by wooden figures, or keepers. These are supposed to be Ni-o--two gigantic and fierce kings--and they occupy a sort of cage with wire in front, that stands on either side of the entrance. Every wors.h.i.+pper makes a wish as he enters the temple, and throws at the kings little wads of paper precisely like the spitb.a.l.l.s of school children. If the wads go through the wire, the wishes are supposed to come true.

The temple itself stands in a courtyard inside the gate, and is rather plain and undecorated, much like j.a.panese houses. A flight of steps leads up to a balcony on the front, there is matting upon the floor inside, and an altar in the centre supports a big bronze vase, which usually contains pieces of gold paper, called _gohei_. A mirror is the most important article in a s.h.i.+nto shrine, the idea being that it is a symbol of the human heart, which should reflect the image of Deity as the gla.s.s reflects the face of the wors.h.i.+pper. The mirror is not found in the temples of merely local divinities, but only in those sacred to the Sun-G.o.ddess herself, and even there is not exposed to view. Wrapped in a series of brocade bags--another being added as each in turn wears out--and kept in a box of cypress wood, which is enclosed in a wooden cage under silken coverings, the mirror itself is never visible to the eyes of the curious.

[Ill.u.s.tration: GRAND SHRINE OF ISE.]

Two famous s.h.i.+nto shrines--at Ise and Kitzuki--are especially revered on account of their great age. Kitzuki is so ancient that no one knows when it was founded. According to tradition, the first temple was built by direct command of the Sun-G.o.ddess herself, in the days when none but G.o.ds existed. The approach to the sacred enclosure is most imposing. A beautiful avenue, shaded by huge trees and spanned by a series of gigantic _torii_, leads from a magnificent bronze _torii_ at the entrance to the ma.s.sive wall that surrounds the temple courts. Within are groves and courts and immense buildings. The people are not admitted to the great shrine itself, but offer their pet.i.tions before the Haiden, or Hall of Prayer. Each pilgrim throws money into the box before the door, claps his hands four times, bows his head, and remains for a few minutes, then pa.s.ses out. So many thousands throng this court that--to borrow Hearn's figure--the sound of their clapping is like the surf breaking on the sh.o.r.e.

Although the shrine at Kitzuki is the oldest, the temples at Ise are more venerated. The inner shrine itself is a plain wooden building set within successive courts, but stately cryptomerias and the most magnificent camphor groves in all j.a.pan give the place an unusual air of grandeur and sanct.i.ty.

Wedding and funeral customs are extremely interesting. They have both the religious and the civil marriage in j.a.pan. To make it legal, the parents must sign in the register. Marriages in s.h.i.+nto temples have been unusual until recently, as they have generally taken place in the home.

The custom is changing now, and temple weddings are becoming more frequent. Funeral customs are changing also. Formerly it was always the Buddhist priest who conducted the burial service, now the aristocrats are interred according to s.h.i.+nto rites.

At a wedding that we witnessed in a s.h.i.+nto temple the couple first listened to a sermon by the priest, then they were given tapers at the altar. The bride lighted her candle first, and the bridegroom lighted his from hers. After this the two tapers were put together in such a way that they burned as one, symbolizing the perfect unity of wedded life.

The bride was handsomely dressed--the _obis_ for these occasions sometimes cost over one hundred dollars--and wore the headdress with horns, half hidden by a veil called the "horn-hider." This name would seem to refer to the Buddhist text, "A woman's exterior is that of a saint, but her heart is that of a demon." After the marriage ceremony, the bridal party was photographed in the temple courtyard in a decidedly up-to-date fas.h.i.+on. At the house the bridal couple drank the nuptial _sake_, which had been prepared by two girl friends of the bride. This was poured from a gold lacquer vessel into one of silver lacquer--the two representing husband and wife--then into a cup, which the master of ceremonies handed to the bride and afterward to the groom, and from which they both drank.

As s.h.i.+nto is the faith of the reigning family, the funeral ceremony of a prince throws a good deal of light upon the cult itself. I did not witness such a ceremony myself, so I condense the vivid description given by the Baroness d'Anethan, who, as wife of the Belgian Minister, resided in Tokyo for many years.

The funeral procession was headed by over eighty bearers dressed in white, the j.a.panese sign of mourning, each carrying a huge tower of flowers. Following these were officers in uniform holding cus.h.i.+ons, on which rested the Prince's numerous grand crosses and orders. Next came various persons surrounding a casket, which contained the favourite food, the shoes for the journey (large wooden _geta_), the sword to guard against evil spirits during the soul's fifty days' wanderings, and the money to pay for the ferry-boat that crosses the river to Eternity.

Finally appeared a beautifully fabricated casket of pure white wood (the s.h.i.+nto sign of purity), embossed with the family arms in gold, in which the body was arranged in a sitting position. The chief mourner, a young prince, was dressed in the old-fas.h.i.+oned Court mourning, consisting of a wide, full, black silk petticoat, covered partially by a short white kimono, crowned by an unusual form of headdress, made of what looked like stiff black muslin. The two princesses of the family also wore ancient Court mourning--a greyish-brown _hakama_ (a kind of divided skirt)--and had their black hair puffed out at the sides like great wings and hanging down the back.

Arriving at the cemetery, the Corps Diplomatique walked up a path paved in wood and bordered on each side by covered seats, at the end of which were high trestles supporting the coffin. The service now began, accompanied by weird funeral music. Low white wooden tables were placed before the coffin, all sorts of objects being offered to the departed by the priests. First was a long box, containing the name which His Imperial Highness was to bear in the next world. After this followed a repast of various kinds of fish, game, sweetmeats and fruit--the favourite foods of the deceased. These articles were handed with great ceremony from one priest to another. There were ten priests, and as each one took the dish, which was placed on a stool of white wood, he clapped his hands twice to call the G.o.ds, and the last priest, bowing very low, finally set it on the table. After all the food had been deposited, prayers were intoned from an immense scroll, the final ceremony being that each member of the family, and after them, the Corps Diplomatique, approached the coffin, carrying branches of some particular tree, from which floated long papers inscribed with prayers. The actual interment took place some hours later, and with the remains of the Prince were buried the various articles of food and clothing.

Our visits to the cemeteries showed us the veneration of the j.a.panese for their n.o.ble dead, and impressed us with the significance of ancestor wors.h.i.+p in the s.h.i.+nto cult. The big graveyard in Tokyo, where Nogi and his wife were buried, was most interesting. Modern cemeteries in j.a.pan are much like ours, each owner having an enclosed lot and misshapen stones or stone lanterns to mark the graves, but they are not so well kept up as in America. Attached to the fence surrounding the lot is a wooden box, in which visitors leave their cards when calling at the abode of the dead. The mourners sometimes burn incense and leave branches of laurel, too. As we approached the resting-place of Nogi and his wife, we saw crowds of people standing near, for although months had pa.s.sed since their dramatic death, the j.a.panese were still visiting their graves in great numbers.

In many cemeteries are the statues of "The Six Jizo"--smiling, childish figures about three feet high--bearing various Buddhist emblems. A bag of pebbles hangs about the neck of each one, and little heaps of stones are piled up at their feet and even laid upon their shoulders and their knees. Jizo is the children's G.o.d. He is the protector of the little souls who have gone from this world to the Sai-no-Kawara, the abode of children after death, where they must pile up stones in penance for their sins! When this task is done, the demons abuse them and throw down their little towers; then the babies run to Jizo, who hides them in his great sleeves, and drives the evil spirits away. Every stone that is laid at the feet of Jizo is a help to some little one in working out its long task.

Hearn gives an interesting account of a wonderful cave at Kaka, on the wild western coast of j.a.pan, which can be visited only when there is not wind enough "to move three hairs," for the strongest boat could not live in the surf that beats against the high cliffs and dashes into the fissures in their sides. But let one make the journey safely, and he shall find in this grotto an image of Jizo, and before it the tiny stone heaps. Every night, it is said, baby souls make their way to the cavern, and pile up the pebbles around their friend, and every morning the prints of little bare feet--the feet of the baby ghosts--are seen in the moist sand.

Buddhism has become so complicated and changed in the different countries through which it has travelled since it originated in Southern India, and there are to-day so many sects, that it is difficult to define.

The Ikko sect undoubtedly holds the purest and loftiest form of this faith. Its chief teaching is, that "man is to be saved by faith in the merciful power of Amida, and not by works or vain repet.i.tion of prayers.

For this reason, and also because its priests are permitted to marry, this body has sometimes been called the Protestantism of j.a.pan."

All the followers of Buddha believe in reincarnation; they feel that life is a struggle, which human beings must get through with as well as they can, and that as they are frail, they return to this earth in various forms in punishment for their sins, always toiling on, until at last their purified souls merge in the Divine and realize calm. As an old j.a.panese writer puts it, "Though growing in the foulest slime, the flower remains pure and undefiled. And the soul of him who remains pure in the midst of temptation is likened unto the lotus."

There have been many Buddhas, who have returned at different times to this world, Yamisaki being the latest. Buddhism has degenerated in j.a.pan, having absorbed the s.h.i.+nto G.o.ds, and as it is based on a pessimistic view of life, it appears to be rather a depressing religion.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Lacquer Work_]

Buddhist temples are adorned with wonderful carving and lacquer work, and contain bronzes and golden Buddhas. One of the largest and most magnificent in j.a.pan, surrounded by gardens of great extent and beauty, is the Eastern Hongwanji temple in Kyoto. The shrines of the Ikko sect are called Hongwanji, meaning "Monastery of the Real Vow," from the vow made by Amida that he would not become Buddha unless salvation was granted to all who sincerely desired it and testified their wish by calling upon his name ten times. There is no government fund for this shrine, and it has no regular source of income, yet it has been the recipient of munificent gifts from royal personages and men of wealth, and has all the prestige that could come from temporal support and the sanction of government.

When we visited this temple, we were ceremoniously received by the priest in charge and a number of his confreres. The head priest, short, fat and clean-shaven, who met us at the gate, grunted and drew the air through his teeth in greeting us, as a symbol of great politeness and respect. His costume was a black silk robe over a soft white under-garment, and a gold brocade band about his neck.

As we pa.s.sed into the building, we were told that the present structure, which is said to have cost seven million _yen_ and was sixteen years in building, was erected on the site of an ancient temple that had been destroyed by fire. It is noteworthy that the new temple contains a system of tile pipes in the roof and ceiling, from which, in case of fire, water may be dropped over the entire area.

[Ill.u.s.tration: EASTERN HONGWANJI TEMPLE, KYOTO.]

Before the altar is a broad sweep of stone flooring, and in front of that a railing, outside which the people come to wors.h.i.+p. Several were kneeling there as we pa.s.sed, their palms together in the traditional att.i.tude of Christian prayer. Others were p.r.o.ne on the floor. The ragged, the lame and the desolate, blind and deaf to the pa.s.sing crowd, knelt upon this bare stone pavement--separated from the altar by a railing beyond which they might not pa.s.s--their hands lifted in supplication or adoration, their heads bowed in humility. The scene called to mind the legend of Sandalphon, the Angel of Prayer, whose mission Longfellow has so beautifully described. We looked at the silent G.o.d standing within the lotus--sacred emblem of humanity--veiled by the pervading incense, and we wondered how many of those unspoken prayers penetrated to the mysterious depths where Buddha dwells.

To the left of the altar is a s.p.a.ce reserved for the priesthood, where Buddhist monks come daily to their morning devotions and religious exercises. Although the priests do not live in the temple, they sometimes pa.s.s the night here in meditation, seated on the long rows of mats that we saw arranged in orderly fas.h.i.+on. About forty priests are usually in attendance at the morning services, but on occasions of State ceremony larger numbers gather from all parts of the Empire. On the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth of each month services are held in memory of the founders of the temple.

The priests conducted us between the railing and the altar, bowing their heads as they pa.s.sed. A number of small coins were scattered on the matting--these were offerings left by wors.h.i.+ppers. Our hosts, who treated us with unfailing courtesy, pointed out further details of the building, and afterward took us to a room where we were served with tea and small cakes. We were told that this apartment had been donated by the present Emperor.

We followed one of the priests into the walled garden and through its narrow paths. We crossed brooks on bamboo bridges, and looked into the calm waters. Among the trees were small temples and tea-houses overhanging the water, and curiously shaped stones and crooked pines.

Hongwanji garden has all the fascination of a true j.a.panese garden, and has, besides, the additional charm of age, for it is over three hundred years old. We sat in this ideal spot, in one of the pretty tea-houses with its soft mats and lacquer and polished wood, and again drank tea from wee porcelain cups and ate sugared cakes.

The memory of this temple garden clings to me still. I imagine the priests sitting on the little covered wooden bridge gazing into the calm water with the lotus flowers, while the crickets sing in the silence--crickets who were perhaps once human, now doing penance for their sins. I hear the priests murmur over and over _Namu Amida Butsu_, the j.a.panese rendering of the Sanskrit invocation meaning "Hail to the Eternal Splendour of Buddha!" I see them meditating on the unending life that they believe to be in store for them, until evil shall have left them, and they shall be absorbed into Nirvana, "as a dewdrop sinks into the s.h.i.+ning sea."

As we left the temple we were shown the great coil of ropes made of human hair. There were originally twenty-nine of these cables, the longest of which measured two hundred feet. It seems that at the time when the old shrine was burned, and they wished to rebuild it, the church had no funds. People came together from all over the Empire, and set to work like beavers. The men gave what they could, in work and money; the women had nothing, yet they, too, wished to help. In a frenzy of religious zeal they cut off their hair--their most treasured possession--and cast it at the foot of the shrine of Buddha. From their offerings were woven the cables that hoisted the tiles to the roof and lifted into place the great wooden pillars of the temple.

The temple of Buddha, with its unpainted exterior, its bare pillars in their naked simplicity, its glint of gold, its magnificent carvings, the delicate fragrance of burning incense, its candles, its wealth of symbolism--all this is a fading memory; yet its fascination lingers. We wonder how much of the temple of Buddha we really saw, how much we felt the presence of that power which is so intimately linked with the spirit of the East and with the genius of the Oriental peoples. We felt the reverence--unexpressed in word or outward act--with which our hosts, the priests, drew our attention to the inscription above the altar, painted in golden j.a.panese characters by the hand of the late Emperor, which, being interpreted, means, "See Truth."

The temples at Nikko, the finest in j.a.pan, are part s.h.i.+nto, part Buddhist. A ceremony which we once witnessed there, in the mausoleum of Iyeyasu, the great Shogun, was full of interest. After taking off our shoes at the entrance, we wandered over the mats, looking at the gloriously carved panels, till we were informed that all was ready and were invited to enter an inner room. I was given a peach-coloured brocade robe, which I threw over my shoulders, but was told that it was not necessary to don the skirt, which forms the rest of the ceremonial costume. They gave us two camp-chairs, as we preferred to sit on them rather than on our heels, in j.a.panese fas.h.i.+on. On either side of us squatted three priests in white and green robes with curious black openwork hats on their heads. We faced the inner shrine, in which stood, on a table, a vase containing the gold paper for purification, such as is seen in s.h.i.+nto shrines.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE HONDEN, IYEYASU, NIKKO.]

Then began the most unearthly music that I have ever heard, made by the three priests on L.'s side, who were musicians. One had a strange instrument made of flutes put together, resembling a small organ, which gave out a sound somewhat like a bagpipe. While this man played a weird tune on his pipes, another with a different instrument made a most unpleasant whistle, like that of a train, which continued throughout the entire ceremony.

Besides the green-robed musicians there were on my side white-robed priests with even quainter head-gear, who moved about on their knees and presented food and drink before the altar with many bows and much clapping of their hands. This service led to the opening of the door of the inner shrine, into which we were afterward taken and served with _sake_. Then we were conducted behind one beautiful set of painted screens after another till we came into the innermost place, gloriously decorated in lacquer and painting but in absolute darkness, except for the glow of the lanterns which we took with us. On emerging from these hidden recesses, we left the temple, with polite bows to the priests and thanks for their courtesy. As we walked away from the building, we could hear the screeching instruments, the priests going on with the service as the offerings were brought out of the sacred place.

Just as we were departing, I was given this translation of the Precepts of Iyeyasu, which I have been glad to preserve as a souvenir of beautiful Nikko:

PRECEPTS OF IYEYASU

Life is like unto a long journey with a heavy load. Let thy steps be slow and steady, that thou stumble not. Persuade thyself that imperfection and inconvenience is the natural lot of mortals, and there will be no room for discontent, neither for despair. When ambitious desires arise in thy heart, recall the days of extremity thou hast pa.s.sed through. Forbearance is the root of quietness and a.s.surance for ever. Look upon wrath as thy enemy. If thou knowest only what it is to conquer, and knowest not what it is to be defeated, woe unto thee! it will fare ill with thee. Find fault with thyself rather than with others. Better the less than the more.

_Translated by Prof. K. Wadagaki, of the Imperial University._

The j.a.panese, like Arabs and Hindoos, not content with wors.h.i.+pping at near-by shrines, often make pilgrimages to holy places at a distance.

There are several of these resorts in the Empire, some of the most famous being the temple of the Sun-G.o.ddess at Ise, the holy mountain Fuji, the monastery of Koya-san, and the lovely island of Miyajima, in the Inland Sea. As most of the pilgrims belong to the artisan and peasant cla.s.ses, and have scarcely more than enough for their daily needs, they have evolved a scheme for defraying the expenses of these trips by forming a great number of a.s.sociations, or brotherhoods, the members of which contribute each a cent a month. At the proper season for the pilgrimage certain members are chosen by lot to represent the brotherhood at some shrine, and their expenses are paid out of the common fund. No distinctive dress is worn by most of them, but those on their way to Fuji and other mountains are attired in white garments and broad straw hats.

[Ill.u.s.tration: OFF MIYAJIMA.]

These j.a.panese pilgrims are not only performing a pious duty, they are also taking their summer vacation. After their prayers are said, as at the various festivals I have described, they do not hesitate to join in all the amus.e.m.e.nts that are provided. It makes little difference to the ma.s.s of the common people whether they wors.h.i.+p at a s.h.i.+nto or a Buddhist shrine, and the Government actually changed Kompira from Buddhist to s.h.i.+nto without in the least detracting from its popularity. The relics guarded in these temples of Buddha remind us very much of the sacred memorials cherished by the Roman Church--holy garments, holy swords, pictures by famous saints, and bits of the cremated body of a Buddha.

It was from her religions that j.a.pan drew her Knightly Code, _Bus.h.i.+do_, obedience to which raised the _samurai_ from the mere brutal wielder of swords to the chivalrous warrior. From s.h.i.+nto he imbibed veneration for his ancestors, the strongest possible sense of duty to his parents, and the most self-sacrificing loyalty to the sovereign. Buddhism gave him a stoical composure in the presence of danger, a contempt for life, and "friendliness with death." It made him calm and self-contained. Finally, the _samurai_ obtained from the teachings of Confucius his principles of action toward his fellow men.

_Bus.h.i.+do_ is spoken of as "the Soul of the People." The Greeks of old located the soul in the kidneys, the Romans in the heart, and it is only in recent years that it has been described as in the head; even then the soul at best is indefinable, so I am at a loss to tell exactly what _Bus.h.i.+do_ means.

When I asked a j.a.panese to define _Bus.h.i.+do_, he answered, "Loyalty--the loyalty of the servant to his master, of the son to his father. The servant is willing to make any sacrifice for the master. The Forty-Seven Ronins are an example of this. General Nogi is another instance of the same thing. Nogi felt that his death would remind the younger generation of the Spartan virtues of the older days, which they were forgetting, and would be a good thing for the country. He also wished to die in order that his master, the Emperor, might not be lonely."

The j.a.panese national hymn, as translated by Professor Chamberlain, fitly embodies this sentiment of loyalty to the Emperor: