The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 109

they returned to their village in the evening. late in the evening the hunters returned from the kil-haw-a-nack-kle River which discharges itself into the head of the bay. They had neither killed nor seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all gone off to the mountains a considerable distance from us. this is unwelcome information and reather allarming we have only 2 days provision on hand, and that nearly spoiled. we made up a small a.s.sortment of articles to trade with the Indians and directed Sergt. Pryor to set out early in the morning in a canoe with 2 men, to ascend the Columbia to the resort of the Indian fishermen and purchase some fish; we also directed two parties of hunters to renew the Chase tomorrow early. the one up the Netul and the other towards Point Adams. if we find that the Elk have left us, we have determined to ascend the river slowly and indeavour to procure subsistence on the way, consuming the Month of March in the woody country. earlyer than April we conceive it a folly to attempt the open plains where we know there is no fuel except a few small dry shrubs. we shall not leave our quarters at fort Clatsop untill the first of April, as we intended unless the want of subsistence compels us to that measure. The common snipe of the marshes and the small sand snipe are the same of those common to the Atlantic Coast tho the former are by no means as abundant here. the prarrow of the woody country is also similar to ours but not abundant. those of the plains of Columbia are the same with those of the Missouri, tho they are by no means so abundant. I have not seen the little singing lark or the large brown Curloo so common to the plains of the Missouri, but I beleive that the latter is an inhabitant of this country during summer from Indian information. I have no doubt but what many species of birds found here in Autumn and Summer had departed before our arrival.

[Clark, March 5, 1806]

Wednesday March 5th 1806.

This morning we were visited by two parties of Clatsops they brought Some fish, a hat and Some Skins for Sale most of which we purchased, they returned to their Village in the evening with the returning tide.

late in the evening the Hunters returned from the Kil-haw-d nack-kle River which discharges itself into the head of the Bay. They had neither killed nor Seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all gorn off to the mountains a considerable distance from us. this is unwelcom information and reather alarming. we have only two days provisions on hand and that nearly Spoiled. we made up a Small a.s.sortment of Articles to trade with the Indians, and directed Sergt Natl. Pryor to Set out early in the morning in a canoe with two men, to a.s.send the Columbia to the resort of the Indians fishermen and purchase Some fish; we also derected two parties of hunters to renew the chase tomorrow early. the one up the Netul, and the other towards point Adams. If we find that the Elk have left us, we have determined to a.s.send the river slowly and endeaver to precure Subsistance on the way, Consumeing the month of March in the woody Country, earlyer than april we conceive it a folly to attempt the Open plains where we know there is no fuel except a fiew Small dry Shrubs. we Shall not leave our quarters at Fort Clatsop untill the 1st of April as we intended, unless the want of Subsistance compels us to that measure.

The common Snipe of the marshes and the Small sand snipe are the same of those Common to the atlantic coast tho the former are by no means as abundant here.

The Sparrow of the woody country is also Similar to ours but not abundant. those of the plains of Columbia are the Same with those of the Missouri. tho they are by no means So Abundant. I have not Seen the little Singing lark or the large brown Curloe So Common to the Plains of the Missouri. but believe the Curloe is an inhabitent of this Countrey dureing Summer from Indian information and their attemps to mimick the notes of this fowl. I have no doubt but what maney Species of birds found here in autumn and Summer had departed before our arrival.

The Aquatic Birds of this country or such as obtain their Subsistence from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fis.h.i.+ng Hawk, blue crested fisher, Gulls of Several Species of the Coast, the large grey Gull of the Columbia, Comorant, loons of two Species, white and the brown brant, Small and large Geese, small and large Swans, the Duckinmallard, canvis back Duck, red headed fis.h.i.+ng Duck, black and white duck, little brown Duck, Black Duck, two Species of Divers, blue winged teal, 14 and Some other Species of Ducks, two Species of Plevers.

The hunters who were out last informed me that they discovered a very Considerable fall in the Kit-haw-a-nack-kle River on its main western fork at which place it falls abt. 100 feet from the Side of a mountain S. E. about 6 miles from Fort Clatsop and nearly 15 from its enterance into the bay by the Meanderings of this river a high mountain is Situated S 60 W. about 18 miles from Fort Clatsop on which there has been Snow Since Nov.

[Lewis, March 6, 1806]

Thursday March 6th 1806.

This morning the fis.h.i.+ng and hunting parties set out agreeably to their instructions given them last evening. at 11 A.M. we were visited by Comowoll and two of his children. he presented us with some Anchovies which had been well cured in their manner. we foud them excellent. they were very acceptable particularly at this moment. we gave the old man some small articles in return. this we have found much the most friendly and decent savage that we have met with in this neighbourhood.

Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a large stick of timber; the bones were fortunately not broken and I expect he will be able to walk again shortly. Bratton is now weaker than any of the convalessants, all of whom recover slowly in consequence of the want of proper diet, which we have it not in our power to procure.-

The Aquatic birds of this country, or such as obtain their subsistence from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fis.h.i.+ng hawk, blue crested fisher, gulls of several species of the Coast, the large grey gull of the Columbia, Cormorant, loons of two species, white, and the brown brant, small and large geese, small and large Swan, the Duckinmallard, canvis back duck, red headed fis.h.i.+ng duck, black and white duck, little brown duck, black duck, two speceis of divers, blue winged teal, and some other speceis of ducks.

[Clark, March 6, 1806]

Thursday March 6th 1806 This morning, the fis.h.i.+ng and hunting party's Set out agreeably to their instructions given them last evening. At 11 a.m. we were visited by Commowoll and two boys Sons of his. he presented us with Some Anchovies which had been well Cured in their manner, we found them excellent. they were very acceptable perticularly at this moment. we gave the old mans Sones a twisted wire to ware about his neck, and I gave him a par of old glovs which he was much pleased with. this we have found much the most friendly and decent Indian that we have met with in this neighbourhood.

Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a log which he had on his Sholder; the bones are fortunately not broken, I expect he will be able to walk again Shortly. Bratten is now weaker than any of the convalessants, and complains verry much of his back, all of them recovering Slowly in consequence of the want of proper diet, which we have it not in our power to precure.

The large Blue and brown Herons or crains as they are usialy called in the U States are found below tide water. they are the Same of those of the U, States. The Fis.h.i.+ng Hawk with the Crown of the head white, and back of a milkey white, and the blue crested or king fisher are found on every part of the Columbia and its water Along which we pa.s.sed and are the Same with those of the U, States. the fis.h.i.+ng hawk is not abundant, particularly in the mountains. There are 4 Species of the larus or gull on this coast and river. 1st a Small Species the Size of a Pegion; white except some black spots about the head and the little bone on the but of the wing. 2d a Species Somewhat larger of a light brown colour, with a mealy coloured back. 3rd the large Grey Gull, or white larus with a greyish brown back, and light grey belly and breast, about the Size of a well grown pullet, the wings are remarkably long in perpotion to the Size of the body and it's under chap towards the extremity is gibbous and protuberant than in either of the other Species. a White Gull about the Size of the Second with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and on the base of the upper Chap there is an elivated orning of the Same Substance with the beak which forms the nostriels at A; it is Somewhat in this form. the feet are webed and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of the wings body &c are much that of the 2d Species this bird was Seen on Haleys bay.

The large Grey Gull is found on the Columbian waters as high as the enterence of the Koos koos ke and in common with the other Species on the coast; the others appear confined to the tidewater, and the 4th Species not So common as either of the others. The Comorant is a large black duck which feeds on fish; I proceive no difference between it & these found in the rivers of the Atlantic Coasts. we met with as high up the river as the enterance of the Chopunnish into the Kooskooske river. they increased in numbers as we decended, and formed much the Greatest portion of waterfowls which we saw on the Columbia untill we reached tidewater, where they also abound but do not bear a Similar proportion to the fowls found in this quarter. we found this bird fat and tolerably flavoured as we decended the Columbia.

[Lewis, March 7, 1806]

Friday March 7th 1806.

The wind was so high that Comowol did not leave us untill late this evening. Labuish and Drewyer returned at sunset having killed one Elk only. they report that there are some scattering male Elk in the neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up the Netul on this side.--Bratton is much wose today, he complains of a violent pain in the small of his back and is unable in consequence to set up. we gave him one of our flanel s.h.i.+rts, applyed a bandage of flannel to the part and bathed and rubed it well with some vollatile linniment which I prepared with sperits of wine, camphor, castile soap and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening.--the large blue and brown herons, or Crams as they are usually called in the U States are found on this river below tidewater. they are the same with those of the U States. the fis.h.i.+ng hawk with the crown of the head White and back of a mealy white, and the blue crested or King fisher are found on every part of the Columbia and it's waters and are the same with those of the U States. the fis.h.i.+ng hawk is not abundant particularly in the mountains. there are four speceis of larus or gull on this coast and river, 1st a small speceis about the size of a pigeon; white except some black spots about the head and a little brown on the but of the wings, 2nd a speceis somewhat larger of a light brown colour with a whitish or mealy coloured back. 3rd the large grey gull, or white larus with a greyish brown back and a light grey belley and breast, about the size of a well grown pullet or reather larger. the wings are remarkably long in proportion to the size of the body and it's under chap towards the extremity is more gibbous and protuberant than in either of the other speceis. 4th a white gull about the size of the second with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and at the base of the uper Chap there is an elivated orning of the same substance with the beak which forms the nostrils; it is some what in this forma the feet are webbed and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of the wings body &c are much that of the second species. the large grey gull is found on the river as high as the entrance of the Kooskooske and in common with the other speceis on the coast; the others appear to be confined to tidewater; and the fourth speceis not so common as either of the others. the cormorant is a large black duck which feeds on fish; I perceive no difference between it and those found in the Potomac and other rivers on the Atlantic Coast. tho I do not recollect seeing those on the atlantic so high up the rivers as those are found here. we first met with them on the Kooskooske at the entrance of Chopunnish river. they increased in quant.i.ty as we decended, and formed much the greatest portion of the waterfowl which we saw on the Columbia untill we reached tidewater where they also abound but do not bear a similar proportion to the other fowls found in this quarter.

There are two speceis of loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every part of the rivers of this country. they are the same size colours and form with those of the Atlantic coast. the second speceis we first met with at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down. this bird is not more than half the size of the speckled loon, it's neck is long, slender and white in front. the Colour of the body and back of the neck and head are of a dun or ash colour, the breast and belley are white.

the beak is like that of the speckled loon and like them it cannot fly but flutters along on the top of the warter or dives for security when pursued.

[Clark, March 7, 1806]

Friday March 7th 1806 The wind was So high that Comowol did not leave us untill late this evening. Drewyer & Labiesh returned at Sunset haveing killed one Elk only. they report that there are Some Scattering mail Elk in the neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up the Netul river on the west Side-. Bratten is much worst to day he complains of a violent pain in the Small of his back, and is unable in consequence of it to Set up. we gave him one of our flanel s.h.i.+rts. I applied a bandage of flanel to the part and rubed it well with Some volatile linniment which was prepared with Sperits of wine, camphire, Sastile Soap, and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening at which time I repeated the linnement and bathed his feet to restore circulation which he complaind of in that part.

There are two Species of Loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every part of the rivers of this quarter, they are the Same Size Colour and form with those of the Ohio, and atlantic coasts. the 2d Species we first met with at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down.

this bird is not more than half the Size of the Speckled loon, it's neck is long, Slender and white in front. the colour of the body and back of the neck and head are of a dun or ash Colour, the breast and belly are white. the back is like that of the Speckled loon, and like them it cannot fly, but flutters along on the top of the water or Dives for Security when pursued.

John s.h.i.+elds Reubin Fields & Robert frasure measured 2 trees of the fur kind one 37 feet around, appears sound, has but fiew limbs for 200 feet it is East of the Netul abt 280 feet high.

[Lewis, March 8, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day March 8th 1806.

Bratton is much better today, his back gives him but little pain.

Collins returned early in the morning and informed us that he had killed three Elk about five miles distant on the edge of the prarie in Point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and could not get it, the other two he butcherd and secured. he saw two large herds of Elk in that quarter. we sent Drewyer and Joseph Fields to hunt those Elk. a party were also sent with Labuish for the flesh of the Elk which Drewyer and himself had killed up the netul, they returned with it in the evening. s.h.i.+elds, R. Fields and Frazier returned this evening from the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull having seen no Elk. McNeal and Goodrich having recovered from the Louis veneri I directed them to desist from the uce of mercury. The white brant is very common in this country particularly below tidewater where they remain in vast quant.i.ties during the winter. they feed like the swan gees &c on the gra.s.s roots and seeds which they find in the marshes. this bird is about the size of the brown brant or a third less than the common Canadian or wild goose. the head is proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak also thicker shorter and of much the same form, being of a yellowish white colour except the edges of the chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and feet are of the same form of the goose and are of a redish white or pale flesh colour. the tail is composed of sixteen feathers of equal length as those of the geese and brown brant are and bears about the same proportion in point of length. the eye is of a dark colour and nothing remarkable as to size.

the wings are rether longer compared with those of the goose but not as much so as in the brown or pided brant. the colour of the plumage of this bird is unifomly a pure white except the large feathers of the extremities of the wings which are black. the large feathers of the 1st joint of the wing next to the body are white. the note of this bird differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles that of the brown brant but is somewhat different. it is like the note of young domestic goose which has not perfectly attained it's full note. the flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, preferable to either the goose or pided brant.--The Brown or pided brant are much the same size and form of the white only that their wings are considerably longer and more pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body neck head and tail is much the colour of the canadian goose but reather darker in consequence of som dark brown feathers which are distributed and irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck and sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the body. like the goose there are some white feathers on the rump at the joining of the tail. the beak is dark and the legs and feet also dark with a greenish cast; the breast and belley are of a lighter colour than the back and is also irregularly intermixed with dark brown and black feathers which give it a pided appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark and in my estimation reather better than that of the goose. the habits of this bird are the same nearly with the goose and white brant with this difference that they do not remain in this climate in such numbers during the winter as the others, and that it sets out earlier in the fall season on it's return to the south and arrives later in the spring than the goose. I see no difference between this bird and that called simply the brant, common to the lakes the Ohio and Mississippi &c. The small goose of this country is reather less than the brant; it's head and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the goose in proportion; their beak is also thicker and shorter. their notes are more like those of our tame gees; in all other rispects they are the same with the large goose with which, they so frequently ascociate that it was some time after I first observed this goose before I could determine whether it was a distinct speceis or not. I have now no hesitation in declaring them a distinct speceis. the large goose is the same of that common on the Atlantic coast, and known by the appellation of the wild, or Canadian goose.

[Clark, March 8, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day March 8th 1806 Bratten is much better this morning, his back givs him but little pain.

Collins returned early in the morning, and informed us that he had killed three Elk about five miles distance on the edge of the prarie in point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and he could not git to it. the other two he butchered and Saved. he saw two large herds of Elk in that quarter. we Sent Drewyer & Jos. Field to hunt these Elk, a party was also Sent with Labiesh for the flesh of the Elk which Drewyer and himself had killd up the Netul, they returned with it in the evening. s.h.i.+elds, R. Field and Frasure returned this evening from the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull haveing Seen no Elk. McNeal and Goodrich haveing recovered from the Louis veneri I detected them to desist from takeing the murcury or useing in future. willard is yet complaining and is low Spirited.

The White Brant is very common in this country particularly below tide water where they remain in vast quant.i.ties dureing the winter. they feed like the Swan Goose &c. on the gra.s.s and roots & Seeds which they find in the marshes this bird is a little larger than the brown brant and a fourth less than the common wild or Canadian goose. the head is proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak thicker Shorter and of the Same form, being of a yellowish white colour except the edges of the Chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and feet are of the Same form of the goose and are of a redish white or pail flesh colour. the tail is composed of Sixteen feathers of equal length as those of the geese and brown brant are, and bears about the Same perpotion in point of length. the Eye is of a dark colour and nothing remarkable as to Size. the wings are reather longer compared with those of the goose, but not as much So as is the brown or pieded brant. the colour of the plumage of this bird is uniformly a pure white except the large feathers of the extremities of the wings which are black. The large feathers of the 1st joint of the wing next to the body are white. the note of this bird differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles that of the brown brant but is Somewhat different. it is like the note of a young domestic goose which has not perfectly attained its full note. the flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, prefferable to either the goose or pieded brant. the neck is Shorter in prpotion than that of the goose.

The Brown or pieded brant are nearly the Size and much the Same form of the white brante only that their wings are considerably longer and more pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body, neck, head and tail is much the Colour of the Common or Canadian Goose but rather darker in consequence of Some dark brown feathers which are distributed and irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck and Sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the body. like the goose there are Some white feathers on the rump at the junction of the tail. the beak, legs and feet are dark, with a greenish cast; the breast and belly are of a lighter colour than the back and is also intermixed, irregularly, with dark brown and black feathers which gives it a pieded appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark, and in my estimation reather better than that of the goose. the habits of this bird is nearly the same with the goose and white brant, with this difference that they do not remain in this Climate in Such numbers dureing the winter as the others. I See no difference between this bird and that Called Simpilly the Brant Common to the Lakes and frequently Seen on the Ohio and Mississippi in large flocks &c.

The Small Goose of this country is reather less than the Brant; it's head and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the goose in purpotion; their beak is also thicker and Shorter. their notes are more like those of our taim geese, in all other respect they are the Same with the large Goose with which, they So frequently ascoiete, that it was Some time after I first observed this goose before I could whether it was a distinct Speces or not. I have no hesitation now in declareing them a distinct Species. the large Goose is the Same as that common to the Ohio, and atlantic coast, and known by the appellation of the wild, or Canadian Goose.

[Lewis, March 9, 1806]

Sunday March 9th 1806. This morning the men set out at daylight to go in gust of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned with it at eleven A.M. Bratton complains of his back being very painfull to him today; I conceive this pain to be something of the rheumatism. we still apply the linniment and flannel; in the evening he was much better.

Drewyer and Joseph Fields returned not having found any Elk. Sergt.

Pryor and the fis.h.i.+ng party not yet arrived, suppose they are detained by the winds. visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a dog some fish and a Sea Otter skin for sale. we suffered them to remain all night. we set s.h.i.+elds at work to make some sacks of Elk skin to contain various articles. The large Swan is precisely the same common to the Atlantic States. the small swan differs only from the larger one in size and it's note. it is about one fourth less and it's note entirely different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the sound of letters nor do I know any sounds with which a comparison would be pertinent. it begins with a kind of whistleing sound and terminates in a round full note which is reather louder than the whistleing, or former part; this note is as loud as that of the large swan. from the peculiar whistleing of the note of this bird I have called it the whistleing swan it's habits colour and contour appear to be precisely those of the large Swan. we first saw them below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw nation. They are very abundant in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in number they are fully five for one of the large speceis. The duckinmallard or common large duck wich resembles the domestic duck are the same here with those of the U Sts. they are abundant and are found on every part of the river below the mountains. they remain here all winter but I beleive they do not continue during winter far above tidewater. a beautifull duck and one of the most delicious in the world is found in considerable quant.i.ties in this neighbourhood during the Autumn and winter. this is the same with that known in the Delliware, Susquehannah, and Potomac by the name of the Canvisback and in James River by that of sh.e.l.l-Drake; in the latter river; however I am informed that they have latterly almost entirely disappeared. to the epicure of those parts of the union where this duck abounds nothing need be added in praise of the exqusite flavor of this duck. I have frequently eaten of them in several parts of the Union and I think those of the Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is never found above tide-water; we did not meet with them untill after we reached the marshey Islands; and I beleive that they have already left this neighbourhood, but whether they have gone northwardly or Southwardly I am unable to determin; nor do I know in what part of the Continent they raise their young.--The read headed fis.h.i.+ng duck is common to every part of the river and are found as well in the Rocky Mountains as elsewhere; in short this was the only duck we saw on the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. they feed princ.i.p.ally on crawfish and are the same in every rispect as those on the rivers in the mountains of the Atlantic Ocean.

[Clark, March 9, 1806]

Sunday Mach 9th 1806 This morning the men Set out at day light to go in quest of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned at 11 A.M. Bratten complains of his backs being very painfull to him to day. we Still apply the linnement & flannel; in the evening he was much better. Jos. Field & Drewyer returned not haveing found any Elk. Sergt. Pryor and the fis.h.i.+ng party not yet returned, Suppose they are detained by the winds.

we are visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a Dog, Some fish and a Sea otter Skin for Sale. we Suffered them to remain all night. we Set s.h.i.+elds at work to make Some Sacks of Elk Skin to contain my papers, and various articles which we wish kept Dry.

The large Swan is precisely the Same Common to the Missouri, Mississippi and the Atlantic States &c. The Small Swan differ only from the large one in Size and it's note. it is about 1/4th less, and its notes entirely different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the Sound of letters nor do I know any Sound with which a comparison would be perti-nent. it begins with a kind of whistling Sound and terminates in a round full note which is reather louder than the whistling, or former part; this note is as loud as that of the large Swan. from the peculiar whistling of the note of this bird I have Called it the Whistleing Swan. it's habits colour and contour appear to be precisely those of the large swan. we first saw them below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw Nation. they are very abundant in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in number they are fully five for one of the large Species of the Swan's.