The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 11

Josephs Several Sand bars parralel to each other above--In the first bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, Cover'd with Gra.s.s resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles Flax Seed, this plain also abounds in Grapes of defferent Kinds Some nearly ripe.

I Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on Sh.o.r.e, also one old Goose, with pin fethers, She Could not fly--at about 12 miles pa.s.sd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S. above this Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows. The wind from the South, Camped on a large Sand Bar makeing out from the L. P. opposit a high hanson Prarie, the hills about 4 or 5 miles on S. S. this plain appeard extensive, the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most agreeable Breeze from the South (I walked on Sh.o.r.e on the S. S. the lands are low Subject to overflow)

Last night at about 10 oClock a violent Storm of wind from the N. N. E.

which lasted with Great violence for about one hour, at which time a Shower of rain Succeeded.

The men on Sh.o.r.e did not join us this after noon--The river nearly on a Stand--the high lands on the S. S. has only been Seen at a Distance above the Nordaway River, those on the S. L. aproaching the river at every bend, on the Side next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side open & the Commencmt. of Plains.

[Clark, July 14, 1804]

July the 14th Satt.u.r.day Some hard Shours of rain accompaned with Some wind detained us untill about 7 oClock, we then Set out and proceeded on about a mile and th atmispeir became Suddenly darkened by a blak & dismal looking Cloud, we wer in a Situation, near the upper point of a Sd. Isd. & the opsd Sh.o.r.e falling in in this Situation a Violent Storm of Wint from the N, E (pa.s.sing over an Open plain, Struck the boat nearly Starboard, quatering, & blowing down the Current) the exerssions of all our Men who were out in an instant, aded to a Strong Cable and Anchor was Scrcely Sufficent to Keep the boat from being thrown up on the Sand Island, and dashed to peices the Waves dasthed over on the Side next to the wind the lockers which was covered with Tarpoling prevented them coming into the boat untill the Boat was Creaned on the Side from the Wind in this Situation we continued about 40 minits, the two perogues about a quater of a mile above, one of them in a Similer Situation with the Boat, the other under the charge of George Gibson in a much better position, with her Ster faceing the wind, this Storm Suddenly Seased, & 1 minit the river was as Smoth as gla.s.s, the wind s.h.i.+fted to the S. E and we Set Sail, and proceeded on pa.s.sed (1) a Small Island on the S. S. and Dined--R. Fields who has charge of the horses &c. on Sh.o.r.e did not join us last night-. pa.s.sed a old fort where Mr. Bennet of St Louis winttered 2 years & traded with the Otteaus & Parties on the S. S. 1 me. abov the little Island, I went out on the L. S. and observed two Elk on a land in the river, in attempting to get near those elk obseved one near us I Shot one. continued on Sh.o.r.e & thro the bottom which was extensive, Some Small Praries, and a peponce of high rich & well timbered bottom, in the Glades I saw wild Timothy, Lams quarter Cuckle burs & rich weed, on the edges Plumbs of different kinds Grapes, and Goose berries, Camped on the L. S. Ruben Fields and Gulrich joined the Party two men unwell, one a Felin on his finger, river fall

[Clark, July 14, 1804]

July 14th, Satt.u.r.day 1804 Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented our Setting out untill 7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr. became Sudenly darkened by a black and dismal looking Cloud, at the time we were in a Situation (not to be bettered) near the upper point of the Sand Island, on which we lay, and the opposit Sh.o.r.e, the bank was falling in and lined with Snags as far as we could See down,-. in this Situation The Storm which pa.s.sd over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our boat on the Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island dashed to peces in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward Side and kept her off with the a.s.sistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the Storm was over, the waves Dashed over her windward Side and She must have filled with water if the Lockers which is covered with Tarpoling & Threw of the water & prevented any quant.i.ty Getting into Bilge of the Boat

In this Situation we continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm Sudenly Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as Smoth as Gla.s.s.

The two perogus dureing this Storm was in a Similar Situation with the boat about half a mile above--The wind s.h.i.+fted to the S. E & We Saled up pa.s.sed a Small (1) Isld. Situated on the S. S. and Dined & Continud two hours, men examine their arms--about a Mile above this Island, pa.s.sed a Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St.

Louis Traded with the Otteaus & Panies two years. I went on Sh.o.r.e to Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired at one but did not get him, went out into a large extensive bottom the greater part of which overflows, the part that dose not overflow, is rich and well timbered, Some Small open Praries near the hills, the Boat pa.s.sed the lower part of a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower point of this Island on the S. S. a (2) large Creek corns into the river Called by the Maha's Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na 50 yds this is a considerable Creek nearly as large as the Mine River, and runs parrelel with the Missouri, the Greater part of its Course. In those Small Praries or glades I saw wild Timothey, lambs-quarter, Cuckle burs; & rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr. Grapes, Plum's, & Gooseberries. I Joined the boat which had Came to and Camped in a bend opposd. the large Island before mentioned on the L. S. Several men unwell with Boils, Felns, &c. The river falls a little.

[Clark, July 15, 1804]

July 15th Sunday 1804. a heavy fog this morning which Detained us untill 7 oClock, put Drewyer Sgt. Floyd on Sh.o.r.e, at 9 I took two Men and went on Sh.o.r.e, with a view to Kill Some elk, pa.s.sed thro open plains, and barroney lands Crossed three butifull Small Streams of water, Saw great quant.i.ty of Cherres Plums, Grapes & Berries of Difft.

Kinds, the lands Generally of a good quallity, on the Streams the wood escapes the fire, at about 7 miles I Struck the river at the mouth Ne ma har Creek about 40 yds wide, near this Creek on a high part of the Prarie I had a extensive View of the river & Countrey on both Sides. on S. a contnuation of the plain as far as I could See, on the N. a bottom Prarie of about 5 ms. wide & 18 or 20 long, hills back of this Plain. I Swam across the Creek and waited for the Boat about three miles above, we camped opsd. an Island.

[Clark, July 15, 1804]

July 15th, Sunday a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out before 7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S. I crossed three butifull Streems of runnig water heading in the Praries on those Streem the lands verry fine covered with pea Vine & rich weed the high Praries are also good land Covered with Gra.s.s entirely void of timber except what grows on the water, I proceeded on thro those praries Several miles to the mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called (2) Ne ma har this is a Small river, about 100 yds. above the mouth it is 40 yards wide, at the mouth (as all other Creeks & rivers falling into the Missourie are) much narrower than a little distance up. after continueing at the mouth of this Creek about an hour, I Swam across and proceeded on about 3 miles and halted to wate for the boat, which was Some distance below--In all this days march thro woods & Praries, I only Saw three Deer & 3 fawns--I had at one part of the Prarie a verry extensive view of all the Countrey around up and down the river a Considerable distance, on the Larbd. Sd. one Continul Plain, on the S.

S. Some timber on the bank of the river, for a Short distance back of this timber is a bottom Plain of four or five miles back to the hills and under the hills between them & the river this plain appeared to extend 20 or 30 miles, those Hills have but little timber, and the Plain appears to Continu back of them--I Saw Great quant.i.ties of Grapes, Plums, or 2 Kinds wild Cherries of 2 Kinds, Hazelnuts, and Goosberries.

we Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a large Island.

[Lewis, July 15, 1804]

Sunday July 15th This evening I discovered that my Chronometer had stoped, nor can I a.s.sign any cause for this accedent; she had been wound up the preceding noon as usual. This is the third instance in which this instrument has stopt in a similar manner since she nas been in my possession, tho the first only since our departure from the River Dubois. in the two preceding cases when she was again set in motion, and her rate of going determined by a series of equal alt.i.tudes of the sun taken for that purpose, it was found to be the same precisely as that mentioned in the preliminary remarks to these observations, or 15 s & 5 tenths too slow in 24 h-as her rate of going after stoping, and begin again set in motion has in two instances proved to be the same, I have concluded, that whatever this impediment may procede from, it is not caused by any material injury which her works have sustained, and that when she is in motion, her error on mean time above stated, may be depended on as accurate. In consequence of the chronometer's having thus accedentally stoped, I determined to come too at the first convenient place and make such observations as were necessary to ascertain her error, establish the Lat.i.tude & Longitude, and determine the variation of the nedle, in order to fix a second point of departure.

[Clark, July 16, 1804]

July 16 1804 Monday Set out verry early and proceeded on the Side of a Prarie pa.s.sd the head of the Island opsd. which we Camped last night, (1) pa.s.sed a Small willow Island off the L. point, hills make near the river (2) pa.s.sed a large Island nearest the L. S. below the pt. a Small willow Isd. also one on the Side. this large Island is called fair Sun the wind favourable from the South. Boat run on a Sawyer, (4) pa.s.s a place on the L. S. where the hill abt. 20 acres has Sliped into the river lately just above pa.s.sed under a clift of Sand Stone L. S. a number of Burds Nests in the holes & crevises of this rock which Continus 2 miles, (5) pa.s.sed a willow Island in a Deep bend to the S. S. river 2 mile wide at this place, note Deed Snags across, pa.s.sed the Lower point of a Island called Isle Chauvin Situated on the L. Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S., This prarie I call Ball pated Prarie from the range ball hills, at from 3 to 6 miles from the river as far as my Sight will extend, we camped in a point of woods opsd. the Isd. on S.

S. in a bend.

[Clark, July 16, 1804]

July 16th Monday 1804 Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the S pa.s.sed the upper point of the Island an extensive Prarie on the L. S. pa.s.sed a large (1) Island Called Fair Sun Isd. a Small willow Isld. at the lower point on the L. S. the boat pa.s.sd on the L. S. of those Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel, the Boat run on the point of a Snag, (2) pa.s.sed a place above the Island L. S. where about 20 acres of the hill has latterly Sliped into the river above a clift of Sand Stone for about two miles, the resort of burds of Different Kinds to reare their young. (5) Pa.s.sed a willow Island in a Deep Bend to the S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and not verry Deep as the Snag may be Seen across, Scattering, pa.s.sed the Lower point of an Island called by French Chauvin's Situated off the L.

Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball gated Prarie, from a range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at from 3 to 6 miles distant from it, and extends as far up & Down as I Can See, we Camped in a point of woods on the L. S. above the Lower point of the Island. river falling.

[Lewis, July 16, 1804]

Monday 16th we set out at an early hour; the morning was cloudy; could find no convenient situation for observation; proceeded untill a little before noon when we came too On the Lard. Sh.o.r.e opposite to the center of good Island where I observed the meridian alt.i.tude of O's L. L. with Octant by the back observation, wich gave me the Lat.i.tude--40 20' 12" N.

I now set the Chronometer as near noon as this observation would enable me, and proceeded untill evening, when we came too on the Stard. sh.o.r.e opposite the lower point of the Island of the Bald prarie where we encamped.

[Clark, July 17, 1804]

July 17th Tuesday, we concluded to lay by today to fix the Longitude, and get the Cronometer right, (She run down Day before yesterday), Several men out hunting to day Capt. Lewis rode out to Neesh-nahba-to na Creek which pa.s.ses thro. the Prarie (on which there is Some few trees) within ____ Mile of the Missoureis, wind from the S E. Several of the party have tumers of different Kinds Some of which is verry troublesom and dificuilty to cure. I took a meridian alt.i.tude (43 27') which made the Latt.i.tude of this place 40 27' 6" 4/10 North.--(The Ball Hills bear N 25 W for 30 mes. The bend on L. S. pa.s.sing the Isd. on the right Side is N. 28 W. 4 ms.) Took equal alt.i.tudes Tried a part of the comn pt. of the Current in 40 Seconds the water run 50 fathem 30" & 20"

in places

Cap Lewers returned, Saw Some hand Som Countrey, the Creek near the high land is rapid and nearly as muddy as the river, & rising Gutrich caught two verry fat Cat fish G Drewyer Killed 3 Deer, & R Fields one, a puff of wind brought Swarms of Misquitors, which disapeared in two hours, blown off by a Continuation of the Same brees.

[Clark, July 17, 1804]

Bald Pated Prarie July 17th, Tuesday 1804 We Concluded lay by at this place to day to fix the Latt.i.tude & Longitude of this place to Correct the cromometer run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting Capt. Lewis Concid. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na Creek which pa.s.ses under the ball hills near this place and at one place a little above this Camp is within 300 yards of the Missouris on this Creek grows Some few trees of oake walnut & mulberry. I took Meridian alt.i.tude of sun L. L. (43 27') which made the Latt.i.tude 40 27' 5" 4/10 North--wind from the South E. Several of the party much aflicted with turners of different Kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom and dificuelt to cure. Capt. Louis returned in the evening. he Saw Som hand Some Countrey & Says that the aforesaid Creek is rapid muddey and running--This Creek which is at 10 or 12 from its mouth, within 300 yds of the river is at least 16 foot Lower than the river--The high Lands from our Camp in this Bald Pated Prarie bears N 25 W. up the R.

The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathen in 40"Some places much Swifter in 30" and even 20 Seconds of time--five Deer killed to day

[Clark, July 18, 1804]

July 18th Wednesday a fair morning the river falling fast, Set out at Sunrise under a gentle Breeze from S. E by S. at 3 miles pa.s.sed the head of the Island on L. S. called by the French Chauve or bald pate (1) opsd. the middle of this Island the Creek on L. S. is within 300 yds. of the river. back of this Island the lower point of (2) another Island in the bend to the L. S. pa.s.sed large Sand bar making out from each point with many channels pa.s.sing through them, "Current runs 50 fathm. in 41 Seconds" but little timber on either Side of the river, except the Isds. & points which are low wet & Covered with lofty trees, Cotton wood Mulberry Elm &c. &c. pa.s.sed the head of a long Island in high water at this time no water pa.s.ses thro the Channel (3) opposit the Lower point of a Island on the L. S. pa.s.s the Island and opsd. the point (4) above & on the L. S. the hills come to the river, This Hill has Sliped into the river for about 3/4 of a mile, and leaves a Bluff of considerable hight back of it this Hill is about 200 foot high compsd. of Sand Stone inter mingled with Iron ore of an inferior quallity on a bed of Soft Slate Stone.

We pa.s.sed a verry bad Sand bar (4) a little above the hill and incmpd on the L. S. opposit a Small Island in the river, Saw a Dog this evening appeared to be nearly Starved to death, he must have been left by Some party of Hunters we gave him Some meet, he would not come near, G Drewrer brought in 2 Deer this evening

[Clark, July 18, 1804]