The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 122

[Clark, May 3, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day 3rd May 1806 This morning we Set out at 7 A.M. Steared N. 25 E 12 m. to Kimoo e nimm Creek through a high leavel plain this Creek is 12 yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges a Considerable quanty of water it head in the S W. Mountains and discharges it Self into Lewis's river a fiew miles Above the narrows. the bottoms of this Creek is narrow with Some timber princ.i.p.ally Cotton wood & Willow. the under brush Such as mentioned in the N. E. Creek. The hills are high and abrupt. the lands of the plains is much more furtile than below, less Sand and Covered with taller gra.s.s; very little of the aramatic Shrubs appear in this part of the plain. we halted and dined at this Creek. after which we again proceeded N. 45 E. 3 mes. through a high plain to a Small Creek 5 yds. wide, a branch of the Kimooenimm Creek. the hills of this Stream like those of the Ki moo enimm are high its bottoms narrow and possess but little timber. the land of a good quallity dark rich loam. we Continued our rout up this Creek on it's N. Side N. 75 E 7 mes. the timber increas in quant.i.ty the hills continue high. we met with the We arh koont whome we have usially distinguished by the name of the big horn Chief from the circ.u.mstance of his always wareing a horn of that animal Suspended by a Cord to his left arm. he is a 1st Chief of a large band of the Chopunnish Nation. he had ten of his young men with him. this man Went down Lewis's river by Land as we decended it by water last fall quite to the Columbia, and I believe was very instremental in precureing us a hospital and friendly reception among the nativs. he had now come a Considerable distance to meet us. after meeting this Cheif we Continued Still up the Creek bottoms N. 75 E. 2 m.

to the place at which the roade leaves the Creek and a.s.sends the hill to the high plains: here we Encamped in a Small grove of Cotton trees which in some measure broke the violence of the wind. we Came 28 miles today. it rained, hailed, Snowed & blowed with Great Violence the greater portion of the day. it was fortunate for us that this Storm was from the S. W. and of Course on our backs. the air was very cold. we devided the last of our dried meat at dinner when it was Consumed as well as the ballance of our Dogs nearly we made but a Scant Supper, and had not any thing for tomorrow; however We-ark-koomt Consoled us with the information that there was an Indian Lodge on the river at no great distance where we might Supply our Selves with provisions tomorrow. our Guide and the three young Wallah wallah's left us this morning reather abruptly and we have Seen nothing of them Sence. the S W. Mountains appear to become lower as they receed to the N, E. This Creek reaches the mountains. we are much nearer to them than we were last evening.

they are Covered with timber and at this time Snow.

[Lewis, May 4, 1806]

Sunday May 4th 1806.

Collected our horses and set out early; the morning was cold and disagreeable. we ascended the Lard. hills of the creek and steered N. 60 E. 4 miles through a high level plain to a ravine which forms the source of a small creek, thence down this creek N. 75 E. 8 ms. to it's entrance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the entrance of the Kooskooske. on the river a little above this creek we arrived at a lodge of 6 families of which Weark-koomt had spoken. we halted here for breakfast and with much difficulty purchase 2 lean dogs. the inhabitants were miserably poor. we obtained a few large cakes of half cured bread made of a root which resembles the sweet potatoe, with these we made some scope and took breakfast. the lands through which we pa.s.sed today are fertile consisting of a dark rich loam the hills of the river are high and approach it nearly on both sides. no timber in the plains. the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Ms. above us still continue to become lower they are covered with snow at present nearly to their bases. Lewis's river appeas to pa.s.s through these mots.

near their N. Eastern extremity. these hills terminate in a high level plain between the Kooskooske and Lewis's river. these plains are in many places well covered with the Longleafed pine, with some Larch and balsom fir. the soil is extreemly fertile no dose it appear so thisty as that of the same apparent texture of the open plains. it produces great quant.i.ties of the quawmash a root of which the natives are extreemly fond. a great portion of the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in small vilages through this plain collecting the quawmash and cows; the salmon not yet having arrived to call them to the river. the hills of the creek which we decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our pack horses sliped from one of those hights and fell into the creek with it's load consisting princ.i.p.ally of ammunition but fortunately neith the horse nor load suffered any material injury. the amunition being secured in canesters the water did not effect it.--after dinner we continued our rout up the West side of the river 3 Ms. opposite to 2 lodges the one containing 3 and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish nation; here we met with Te-toh, ar sky, the youngest of the two cheifs who accompanied us last fall the great falls of the Columbia here we also met with our pilot who decended the river with us as far as the Columbia. these indians recommended our pa.s.sing the river at this place and ascending the Kooskooske on the N. E. side. they said it was nearer and a better rout to the forkes of that river where the twisted hair resided in whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to conduct us. we determined to take the advice of the indians and immediately prepared to pa.s.s the river which with the a.s.sistance of three indian canoes we effected in the course of the evening, purchased a little wood and some bread of cows from the natives and encamped having traveled 15 Ms. only today. We-ark-koomt whose people resided on the West side of Lewis's river above left us when we determined to pa.s.s the river and went on to his lodg. the evening was cold and disagreeable, and the natives crouded about our fire in great numbers insomuch that we could scarcely cook of keep ourselves warm. at all these lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a small lodg with one fire which seems to be the retreat of their women in a certain situation.

the men are not permitted to approach this lodge within a certain distance and if they have any thing to convey to the occupants of this little hospital they stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they can and retire.

[Clark, May 4, 1806]

Sunday May 4th 1806 Collected our horses and Set out early; the morning was Cold and disagreeable. we a.s.sended the Larboard Hill of the Creek and Steared N 60 E 4 M. through a high leavil plain to a revine which forms the Source of a small creek, thence down the Creek N 75 E. 8 Ms. to it's enterance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the enterance of Koos koos ke. on the river a little above this Creek we arived at a lodge of 6 families of which We-ark'-koomt had Spoken. We halted here for brackfast and with much dificuelty purchased 2 lean dogs. the inhabitents were miserably pore. we obtained a fiew large cakes of half cured bread made of a root which resembles the Sweet potatoe, with these we made Some Soope and took brackfast. the lands through which we pa.s.sed to day are fertile consisting of a dark rich loam. the hills of the river are high and abrupt approaching it nearly on both Sides. no timber in the plains.

the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Miles from us Still Continue to become lower, they are Covered with Snow at present nearly to their bases. Lewis's river appear to pa.s.s through those Mountains near the N Eastern extremity. those hills termonate in a high leavil plain between the Kooskoske & Lewis's river. these plains are in maney places well covered with the long leafed pine and Some balsom fir. the Soil is extreamly fertile. no does it appear So thirsty as that of the Same apparrant texture of the open plains. it produces great quant.i.ties of the quawmash a root of which the nativs are extreemly fond. a Great portion of the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in Small villages through this plain Collecting the Cowse a white Meley root which is very fine in Soup after being dried and pounded; the Salmon not yet haveing arived to Call them to the river-. The hills of the Creek which we decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our pack horses Sliped from one of those hights and fell into the Creek with it's load Consisting princ.i.p.ally of amunition, but fortunately neither the horse nor load Suffered any Matereal injury. the ammunition being Secured in Canesters the water did not effect it.

after dinner we Continued our rout up the West Side of the river 3 ms.

opposit 2 Lodges the one Containing 3 and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish Nation; here we met with Te-toh-ar-sky the oldest of the two Chiefs who accompanied us last fall to the Great falls of the Columbia.

here we also met with our old pilot who decended the river with us as low as the Columbia these indians recommended our pa.s.sing the river at this place and going up on the N E Side of the Kooskoske. they Sayed it was nearer and a better rout to the forks of that river where the twisted hair resided in whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to Conduct us. we determined to take the advise of the indians and imediately prepared to pa.s.s the river which with the a.s.sistance of three indian Canoes we effected in the Course of the evening, purchased a little Wood, Some Cows bread and encamped, haveing traveled 15 miles to day only. We ark koomt whose people reside on the West Side of Lewis's river above left us when we deturmined to pa.s.s the river. before he left us he expressed his concern that his people would be deprived of the pleasure of Seeing us at the forks at which place they had a.s.simbled to Shew us Sivilities &c. I gave him a Small piece of tobacco and he went off Satisfied. the evening was Cold and disagreeable, and the nativs Crouded about our fire in great numbers in so much that we Could Scercely Cook or keep ourselves worm. at all those Lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a Small lodge with one fire, which Seames to be the retreat of their women in a certain Situation. the men are not permited to approach this Lodge within a certain distance, and if they have any thing to Convey to the Occupents of this little hospital they Stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they Can and retire.

[Lewis, May 5, 1806]

Monday May 5th 1806.

Collected our horses and set out at 7 A.M. at 41/2 miles we arrived at the entrance of the Kooskooske, up the N. Eastern side of which we continued our march 12 ms. to a large lodge of 10 families having pa.s.sed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Ms.

from the mouth of the Kooskooske but not being able to obtain any provision at either of those lodges continued our march to the third where we arrived at 1 P.M. & with much difficulty obtained 2 dogs and a small quanty of root bread and dryed roots. at the second lodge we pa.s.sed an indian man gave Capt. C. a very eligant grey mare for which he requested a phial of eye-water which was accordingly given him.

while we were encamped last fall at the entrance of the Chopunnish river Capt. C. gave an indian man some volitile linniment to rub his kee and thye for a pain of which he complained, the fellow soon after recovered and has never ceased to extol the virtues of our medecines and the skill of my friend Capt C. as a phisician. this occurrence added to the benefit which many of them experienced from the eyewater we gave them about the same time has given them an exalted opinion of our medicine. my friend Capt. C. is their favorite phisician and has already received many applications. in our present situation I think it pardonable to continue this deseption for they will not give us any provision without compensation in merchandize and our stock is now reduced to a mere handfull. we take care to give them no article which can possibly oinjure them. we foud our Chopunnish guide at this lodge with his family. the indians brought us Capt. Clark's horse from the oposite side of the river and delivered him to us while here. this horse had by some accedent seperated from our other horses above and had agreeably to indian information been in this neighbourhood for some weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow verry impertinently threw a poor half starved puppy nearly into my plait by way of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; I was so provoked at his insolence that I caught the puppy and thew it with great violence at him and struk him in the breast and face, siezed my tomahawk and shewed him by signs if he repeated his insolence I would tommahawk him, the fellow withdrew apparently much mortifyed and I continued my repast on dog without further molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to the entrance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we sunk the 1st canoe as we decended the river last fall. we encamped on the lower side of this creek at a little distance from two lodges of the Chopunnish nation having traveled 201/2 ms. today. one of these lodges contained eight families, the other was much the largest we have yet seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 wide built of mats and straw. in the form of the roof of a house having a number of small doors on each side, is closed at the ends and without divisions in the intermediate s.p.a.ce this lodge contained at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in the center of the house and about 10 feet a.s.sunder.

all the lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived here extreemly hungry and much fatiegued, but no articles of merchandize in our possession would induce them to let us have any article of provision except a small quant.i.ty of bread of cows and some of those roots dryed. we had several applications to a.s.sist their sick which we refused unless they would let us have some dogs or horses to eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed on the small of her back promised a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her accordingly Capt. C. opened the absess introduced a tent and dressed it with basilicon; I prepared some dozes of the flour of sulpher and creem of tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each morning.

a little girl and sundry other patients were offered for cure but we posponed our operations untill morning; they produced us several dogs but they were so poor that they were unfit for use. This is the residence of one of 4 princ.i.p.al Cheifs of the nation whom they call Neesh-ne,-park-ke-ook or the cut nose from the circ.u.mstance of his nose being cut by the snake indians with a launce in battle. to this man we gave a medal of the small size with the likeness of the President. he may be a great cheif but his countenance has but little inteligence and his influence among his people seems but inconsiderable. a number of indians beside the inhabitants of these lodges geathered about us this evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the creek near us. we met with a snake indian man at this place through whome we spoke at some length to the natives this evening with rispect to the objects which had induced us to visit their country. this address was induced at this moment by the suggestions of an old man who observed to the natives that he thought we were bad men and had come most probably in order to kill them. this impression if really entertained I beleive we effaced; they appeared well satisfyed with what we said to them, and being hungry and tired we retired to rest at 11 oClock.--We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening. this man has been of infinite service to us on several former occasions and through him we now offered our address to the natives.

[Clark, May 5, 1806]

Monday May 5th 1806 Collected our horses and Set out at 7 A M. at 41/2 ms. we arived at the enterance of Kooskooske, up the N E. Side of which we continued our March 12 Miles to a large lodge of 10 families haveing pa.s.sed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Miles from the Mouth of the Kooskooske, but not being able to obtain provisions at either of those Lodges continued our March to the 3rd where we arived at 1 P.M.

and with much dificuelty obtained 2 dogs and a Small quant.i.ty of bread and dryed roots. at the Second Lodge of Eight families Capt L. & my self both entered Smoked with a man who appeared to be a princ.i.p.al man.

as we were about to leave his lodge and proceed on our journey he brought foward a very eligant Gray mare and gave her to me, requesting Some eye water. I gave him a phial of Eye water a handkerchief and some Small articles of which he appeared much pleased-. While we were encamped last fall at the enterance of Chopunnish river, I gave an Indian man some volitile leniment to rub his knee and thye for a pain of which he Complained. the fellow Soon after recovered and have never Seased to extol the virtue of our medicines. near the enterance of the Kooskooske, as we decended last fall I met with a man, who Could not walk with a tumure on his thye. this had been very bad and recovering fast. I gave this man a jentle pirge cleaned & dressed his Sore and left him Some Casteel Soap to wash the Sore which Soon got well. this man also a.s.signed the restoration of his leg to me. those two cures has raised my reputation and given those nativs an exolted oppinion of my Skill as a phician. I have already received maney applications. in our present Situation I think it pardonable to continue this deception for they will not give us any provisions without Compensation in merchendize, and our Stock is now reduced to a mear handfull. we take Care to give them no article which Can possibly injure them. and in maney Cases can administer & give Such Medicine & Sergical aid as will effectually restore in Simple Cases &c. We found our Chopunnish Guide with his family. the Indians brought my horse which was left at the place we made Canoes, from the opposit Side and delivered him to me while here. this horse had by Some accident Seperated from our other horses above, and agreeably to indian information had been in this neighbourhood Some weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow very impertinently threw a half Starved puppy nearly into the plate of Capt.

Lewis by way of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; Capt L.--was So provoked at the insolence that he cought the puppy and threw it with great violence at him and Struck him in the breast and face, Seazed his tomahawk, and Shewed him by Sign that if he repeeted his insolence that he would tomahawk him, the fellow withdrew apparently much mortified and we continued our Dinner without further Molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to the enterance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we Sunk the 1st Canoe as we decended the river last fall. We encamped on the lower Side of this Creek a little distance from two Lodges of the Chopunnish nation haveing traviled 201/2 miles to day one of those Lodges Contained 8 families, the other was much the largest we have yet seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide built of mats and Straw, in the form of the roof of a house haveing a number of Small dores on each Side, is closed at the ends and without divisions in the intermediate s.p.a.ce. this lodge at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in the Center of the Lodge and about 10 feet a.s.sunder.

all the Lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived here extreemly hungary and much fatigued, but no articles of merchindize in our possession would induce them to let us have any article of Provisions except a Small quant.i.ty of bread of Cows and some of those roots dryed. We had Several applications to a.s.sist their Sick which we refused unless they would let us have Some dogs or horses to eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed on the Small of her back promised a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her, I examined the absess and found it was too far advanced to be cured. I told them her case was desperate. agreeably to thir request I opened the absess. I then introduced a tent and dressed it with bisilican; and prepared Some dozes of the flour of Sulpher and Creem of tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each morning. a little girl and Sundery other patients were brought to me for Cure but we posponed our opperations untill the morning; they produced us Several dogs but they were So pore that they were unfit to eat. This is the residence of one of four princ.i.p.al Cheafs of the nation whome they call Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook or the Cut nose from the circ.u.mstance of his nose being Cut by the Snake Indians with a launce in battle. to this man we gave a Medal of the Small Size with a likeness of the President. he may be a great Chief but his Countinance has but little inteligence and his influence among his people appears very inconsiderable. a number of Indians besides the inhabitents of these Lodges gathered about us this evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the Creek near us. We met with a Snake indian man at this place through whome we Spoke at Some length to the nativs this evening with respect to the object which had enduced us to visit their Country. this address was induced at this moment by the Suggestions of an old man who observed to the nativs that he thought we were bad men and had Come most probably in order to kill them.--this impression if really entertained I believe we effected; they appeared well Satisfied with what we Said to them, and being hungary and tired we retired to rest at 11 oClock.--We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening. this man has been of infinate Service to us on Several former occasions and through him we now offered our address to the nativs-.

[Lewis, May 6, 1806]

Tuesday May 6th 1806.

This morning the husband of the sick woman was as good as his word, he produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we immediately killed and butchered. the inhabitants seemed more accomodating this morning; they sold us some bread. we received a second horse for medecine and prescription for a little girl with the rheumatism. Capt.

C. dressed the woman again this morning who declared that she had rested better last night than she had since she had been sick. sore eyes is an universal complaint with all the natives we have seen on the west side of the Rocky mountains. Capt. C. was busily engaged for several hours this morning in administering eye-water to a croud of applicants. we once more obtained a plentifull meal, much to the comfort of all the party. I exchanged horses with We-ark'-koomt and gave him a small flag with which he was much gratifyed. the sorrel I obtained is an eligant strong active well broke horse perfictly calculated for my purposes. at this place we met with three men of a nation called the Skeets-so-mish who reside at the falls of a large river disharging itself into the Columbia on it's East side to the North of the entrance of Clark's river. this river they informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which they resided was at no great distance from the lake. these people are the same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is intirely different a circ.u.mstance which I did not learn untill we were about to set out and it was then too late to take a vocabulary. The river here called Clark's river is that which we have heretofore called the Flathead river, I have thus named it in honour of my worthy friend and fellow traveller Capt. Clark. for this stream we know no indian name and no whiteman but ourselves was ever on it's princ.i.p.al branches. the river which Fidler calls the great lake river may possibly be a branch of it but if so it is but a very inconsiderable branch and may as probably empty itself into the Skeetssomish as into that river. the stream which I have heretofore called Clark's river has it's three princ.i.p.al sources in mountains Hood, Jefferson & the Northern side of the S. W. Mountains and is of course a short river. this river I shall in future call the To-wannahiooks river it being the name by which it is called by the Eneshur nation. The Kooskooske river may be safely navigated at present all the rocks of the shoals and rapids are perfectly covered; the current is strong, the water clear and cold. this river is rising fast.The timber of this river which consists princ.i.p.ally of the long leafed pine commences about 2 miles below our present camp on Colter's Creek. it was two oclock this evening before we could collect our horses. at 3 P.M. we set out accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair and We arkkoomt. I directed the horse which we had obtained for the purpose of eating to be led as it was yet unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued between Drewyer and Colter. we continued our march this evening along the river 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families, built of sticks mats & dryed hay in the same form of those heretofore discribed. we pa.s.sed a lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the road. no provision of any discription was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark our young horse broke the rope by which he was confined and made his escape much to the chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of their appet.i.tes last evening. the brother of the twisted hair and Wearkkoomt with 10 or 12 others encamped with us this evening.-

the natives have a considerable salmon fishery up Colter's Creek. this stream extends itself to the pirs of the rocky mountain and in much the greater part of it's course pa.s.ses through a well timbered pine country it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and bed formed of pebbles.--had a small shower of rain this evening.

[Clark, May 6, 1806]

Tuesday May 6th 1806 This morning the Susband of the Sick woman was as good as his word. he produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we imedeately had killed and butchered. the inhabitents Seemed more accommodating this morning. they Sold us Some bread. we received a Second horse for Medecine & procription to a little girl with the rhumitism whome I had bathed in worm water, and anointed her a little with balsom Capivia. I dressed the woman again this morning who declared that She had rested better last night than She had Since She had been sick. Sore Eyes is an universal Complaint among all the nations which we have Seen on the West Side of the rocky Mountains. I was busily imployed for several hours this morning in administering eye water to a Croud of applicants.

we once more obtained a plentiful meal, much to the Comfort of all the party. Capt Lewis exchanged horses with We ark koomt and gave him a small flag with which he was much pleased and gratifyed. the Sorrel which Cap L. obtained is a Strong active well broke horse-. At this place we met with three men of a nation Called the Skeetsso-mish who reside at the falls of a Small river dischargeing itself into the Columbia on its East Side to the South of the enterance of Clarks river. this river they informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which they reside was at no great distance from the lake. these people are the Same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is entirely different. one of them gave me his whip which was a twisted Stick 18 Ins. in length at one end a pice of raw hide Split So as to form two Strings about 20 inches in length as a lash, to the other end a String pa.s.sed through a hole and fastened at each end for a loope to Slip over the wrist. I gave in return for this whip a fathom of narrow binding.

The River here Calld. Clarks river is that which we have heretofore Called Flathead river. Capt. Lewis has thought proper to Call this after myself for this Stream we know no Indhan name and no white man but our Selves was ever on this river. The river which Fiddler call's the great Lake river may possiably be a branch of it, but if So it is but a very inconsiderable branch, and may as probably empty itself into the Columbia above as into Clarks river. the Stream which the party has heretofore Called Clarks river imedeately above the great falls, has it's three princ.i.p.al branches in Mountains Jefferson, Hood and the Northern Side of the S. W. Mountains and is of course a Short river.

this river is Called by the Skillutes & Eneshure Nations Towannahhiooks which is also the name they Call those bands of Snake indians who Come on this river every Spring to Catch the Salmon-. The Kooskooske river may be Safely navigated at present all the rocks of the Sholes and rapids are perfectlly Covered; the Current is Strong, the water Clear and Cold. this river is riseing fast-. The timber of this river which consists princ.i.p.ally of the long leafed pine which commences about 2 miles below our present encampment on Colters Creek. it was 2 P M. this evening before we could collect our horses. at 3 P M. we Set out accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair and We-ark-koomt. we derected the horse which I had obtained for the purpose of eateing to be led as it was unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued between Drewyer and Colter-. We Continued our march along the river on its North Side 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families built of Sticks mats and dryed Hay. of the Same form of those heretofore discribed. we pa.s.sed a Lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the river, no provisions of any discription was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark our young horse broke the rope by which he was Confined and made his escape much to the chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of their appet.i.tes last evening. the brother of the twisted hair & wearkkoomt with 10 others encamped with us this evening

The nativs have a Considerable Salmon fishery up Colters Creek. this Stream extends itself to the Spurs of the Rocky Mountain and in much the greater part of its Course pa.s.ses through a well timbered pine Country. it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and bead formed of pebbles-. had a Small Shower of rain this evening. The Chopunnish about the Mouth of the Kooskooske bury their dead on Stoney hill Sides generally, and as I was informed by an Indian who made Signs that they made a hole in the Grown by takeing away the Stones and earth where they wished to deposit the dead body after which they laid the body which was previously raped in a robe and Secured with Cords. over the body they placed Stones So as to form a Sort of arch on the top of which they put Stones and earth So as to Secure the body from the wolves and birds &c. they Sometimes inclose the grave with a kind of Sepulcher like the roof of a house formed of the canoes of the disceased. they also Sacrifice the favorite horses of the disceased. the bones of many of which we See on and about the graves.

[Lewis, May 7, 1806]

Wednesday May 7th 1806.

This morning we collected our horses and set out early accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide; Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the entrance of a small creek, here our guide recommended our pa.s.sing the river. he informed us that the road was better on the South side and that game was more abundant also on that side near the entrance of the Chopunnish river. we determined to pursue the rout recommended by the guide and accordingly unloaded our horses and prepared to pa.s.s the river which we effected by means of one canoe in the course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two canisters of powder which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they had been buried in a bottom near the river some miles above, they were the same which we had buryed as we decended the river last fall. as he had kept them safe and had honesty enough to return them to us we gave him a fire steel by way of compensation. during our detention at the river we took dinner, after which or at 3 P.M. we renewed our march along the river about 2 ms. over a difficult stony road, when we left the river and a.s.scended the hills to the wright which are here mountains high. the face of the country when you have once ascended the river hills is perfectly level and partially covered with the longleafed pine. the soil is a dark rich loam thickly covered with gra.s.s and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull pasture for horses. in short it is a beautifull fertile and picteresque country.

Neeshneparkeeook overtook us and after riding with us a few miles turned off to the wright to visit some lodges of his people who he informed me were geathering roots in the plain at a little distance from the road. our guide conducted us through the plain and down a steep and lengthey hill to a creek which we called Musquetoe Creek in consequence of being infested with swarms of those insects on our arrival at it. this is but an inconsiderable stream about 6 yds. wide heads in the plains at a small distance and discharges itself into the Kooskooke 9 miles by water below the entrance of the Chopunnish river.

we struck this creek at the distance of 5 ms. from the point at which we left the river our cours being a little to the S. of East. ascending the creek one mile on the S. E. side we arrived at an indian incampment of six lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained all night having traveled 12 miles only. the timbered country on this side of the river may be said to commence near this creek, and on the other side of the river at a little distance from it the timber reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in many parts of these plains is thrown up in little mounds by some animal whose habits are similar to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding I have observed the work of this animal thoughout the whole course of my long tract from St. Louis to the Pacific ocean I have never obtained a view of this animal. the Shoshone man of whom I have before made mention evertook us this evening with Neeshneparkeeook and remained with us this evening.--we suped this evening as we had dined on horse-beef. we saw several deer this evening and a great number of the tracks of these animals we determined to remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some venison and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn out early in the morning.--he Spurs of the rocky Mountains which were in view from the high plain today were perfectly covered with snow. the Indians inform us that the snow is yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to pa.s.s them untill the next full moon or about the first of June; others set the time at still a more distant period. this unwelcom inteligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri and thence to our native homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in Sepulchres formed of boards like the roofs of houses. the corps is rolled in skins and laid on boards above the surface of the earth. they are laid in several teer one over another being seperated by a board only above and below from other corps. I did observe some instances where the body was laid in an indifferent woden box which was placed among other carcased rolled in skin in the order just mentioned. they sacrifice horses canoes and every other speceis of property to their ded. the bones of many horses are seen laying about those sepulchres. this evening was cold as usual.

[Clark, May 7, 1806]

Wednesday May 7th 1806 This morning we collected our horses and Set out early accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide; Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families just below the enterance of a Small Creek, here our guide recommended our pa.s.sing the river, he informed us that the road was better on the South Side, and that game was more abundant also on that Side near the enterance of Chopunnish river. we deturmined to pursue the rout recommended by the guide, and accordingly unloaded our horses and prepared to pa.s.s the river which we effected by means of one Canoe in the Course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two Canisters of Powder which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they had been berried in the bottom near the river a fiew miles above. they were the Same which we had burried as we decended the river last fall.

as he had kept them Safe and had honisty enough to return them to us, we gave him a fire Steel by way of Compensation. dureing our detention at the river we took dinner. after which we renewed our march along the S. E. Side of the river about 2 miles over a dificuelt Stoney road, when we left the river and a.s.sended the hills to the right which are here mountains high. the face of the Country when you have once a.s.sended the river hills, is perfectly level and partially Covered with the long leafed pine. the Soil is a dark rich loam, thickly Covered with gra.s.s and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull pasture for horses. in Short it is a butifull fertile picteresque Country.

Neeshneparkeeook over took us and after rideing with us a fiew miles turned off to the right to visit some lodges of his people who he informed us were gathering roots in the plains at a little distance from the road. our guide Conducted us through the plain and down a Steep and lengthy hill to a Creek which we Call Musquetoe Creek in consequence of being infested with Sworms of those insects on our arival at it. this is but an inconsiderable Stream about 6 yards wide heads in the plains at a Short distance and discharges itself into the Kooskooske 9 ms. by water below the forks. we Struck this Creek at the distance of 5 miles from the point at which we left the river our course being a little to the S. of East. we proceeded up the Creek one Mile and on the S. E. Side we arived at an old Indian incampment of Six Lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained all night haveing traveled 12 ms. only. the timbered Country on this Side of the river may be Said to Commence a Short distance below this Creek, and on the other Side of the river at a little distance from it the timber reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in maney parts of those plains is thown up in little mounds by Some animal whose habits are Similar to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding I have observed the work of this animal throughout the whole course of my trail from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocian, I have never obtained a View of this animal. The Shoshone man of whome I have before mentioned over took us this evening with Neesh neparkeeook or Cut nose and remained with us this evening. we Suped this evening as we had done on horse beef. we Saw Several deer this evening, and a great number of the tracks of these animals we deturmined to remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some venison, and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn out early in the morning. The Spurs of the rocky mountains which were in view from the high plain to day were perfectly Covered with Snow. The Indians inform us that the Snow is yet So deep on the Mountains that we Shall not be able to pa.s.s them untill after the next full moon or about the first of June. others Set the time at a more distant period. this unwelcom intiligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri, and thence to our native homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in different ways as I have obseved, besides that already discribed they scaffold Some and deposit others in Sepulchers, those are rearly to be Seen in this upper part of the Columbian Waters. the one already discribed is the most Common. they all Sacrifice horses, Canoes and every Species of property to the dead. the bones of maney horses are Seen lyeing about those repositaries of the dead &c.-.

I observed in all the Lodges which we have pa.s.sed Since we Crossed Lewis's river decoys, or Stocking heads as they are Sometimes called.

these decoys are for the deer and is formed of the Skin of the head and upper portion of the neck of that animale extended in the nateral Shape by means of a fiew little Sticks placed within. the hunter when he Sees a deer conseals himself and with his hand givs to the decoy the action of a deer at feed, and this induces the deer within arrowshot; in this mode the Indians near the woody country hunt on foot in Such places where they cannot pursue the deer with horses which is their favourite method when the grounds will permit-.-. The orniments worn by the Chopunnish are, in their nose a Single Sh.e.l.l of wampom, the pirl & beeds are Suspended from the ears. beads are worn arround their wrists, neck and over their Sholders crosswise in the form of a double Sash-.

the hair of the men is Cewed in two rolls which hang on each side in front of the body. Collars of bears Claws are also Common; but the article of dress on which they appear to bestow most pains and orniments is a kind of collar or brestplate; this is most Commonly a Strip of otter skins of about Six inches Wide taken out of the Center of the Skin it's whole length including the head. this is dressed with the hair on, this is tied around the neck & hangs in front of the body the tail frequently reaching below their knees; on this Skin in front is attatched pieces of pirl, beeds, wampom, pices of red Cloth and in Short whatever they conceive most valuable or ornamental-.-.

[Lewis, May 8, 1806]

Thursday May 8th 1806.

Most of the hunters turned out by light this morning a few others remained without our permission or knoledge untill late in the morning, we chid them severely for their indolence and inattention to the order of last evening. about 8 OCk. Sheilds returned with a small deer on which we breakfasted. by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned, Drewyer and Cruzatte brought each a deer, Collins wounded another which my dog caught at a little distance from the camp. our stock of provision now consisted of 4 deer and the remnant of the horse which we killed at Colter's Creek. Sheilds killed a duck of an uncommon kind. the head beak and wing of which I preserved. the beak is remarkably wide and obtusely pointed, on it's edges it is furnished with a sceries of teeth very long and fine not unlike the teeth of a comb. the belley is of a brick red, the lower part of the neck white, the upper part or but of the wing is a sky blue, underneath which a narrow stripe of white succeeds marking the wing transversly, the large feathers are of a dark colour. tail short and pointed and consists of 12 dark brown feathers.

the back is black and sides white; legs yellow and feet formed like the Duckinmallard which it also resembles in size and form. the eye is moderately large, puple black and iris of an orrange colour. the colours and appearance of the female is precisely that of the duckinmallard only, reather smaller. we are informed that the natives in this quarter were much distressed for food in the course of the last winter; they were compelled to collect the moss which grows on the pine which they boiled and eat; near this camp I observed many pine trees which appear to have been cut down about that season which they inform us was done in order to collect the seed of the longleafed pine which in those moments of distress also furnishes an article of food; the seed of this speceis of pine is about the size and much the shape of the seed of the large sunflower; they are nutricious and not unpleasent when roasted or boiled, during this month the natives also peal this pine and eat the succulent or inner bark. in the creek near our encampment I observed a falling trap constructed on the same plan with those frequent seen in the atlantic states for catching the fish decending the stream Capt. C. took several small trout from this trap.

Neesh-ne-park-kee-ook and several other indians joined us this morning.

we gave this cheif and the indians with us some venison, horsebeef, the entrels of the four deer, and four fawns which were taken from two of the does that were killed, they eat none of their food raw, tho the entrals had but little preperation and the fawns were boiled and consumed hair hide and entrals. these people sometimes eat the flesh of the horse tho they will in most instances suffer extreem hunger before they will kill their horses for that purpose, this seems reather to proceede from an attatchment to this animal, than a dislike to it's flesh for I observe many of them eat very heartily of the horsebeef which we give them. The Shoshone man was displeased because we did not give him as much venison as he could eat and in consequence refused to interpret, we took no further notice of him and in the course of a few hours he became very officious and seemed anxious to reinstate himself in our good opinons. the relation of the twisted hair and Neeshneparkkeook gave us a sketch of the princ.i.p.all watercourses West of the Rocky Mountains a copy of which I preserved; they make the main Southwardly branch of Lewis's river much more extensive than the other, and place many villages of the Shoshonees on it's western side. at half after 3 P.M. we departed; for the lodge of the Twisted hair accompanyed by the Cheif and sundry other indians. the relation of the twisted hair left us. the road led us up a steep and high hill to a high and level plain mostly untimbered, through which we pa.s.sed parrallel with the river about 4 miles when we met the Twisted hair and a party of six men. to this Cheif we had confided the care of our horses and a part of our saddles when we decended the river last fall. the Twisted hair received us very coolly an occurrence as unexpected as it was unaccountable to us. he shortly began to speak with a loud voice and in a angry manner, when he had ceased to speak he was answered by the Cutnose Cheif or Neeshneparkkeook; we readily discovered that a violet quarrel had taken place between these Cheifs but at that instant knew not the cause; we afterwards learnt that it was on the subject of our horses. this contreversy between the cheifs detained us about 20 minutes; in order to put an end to this dispute as well as to releive our horses from the embarasment of their loads, we informed the Cheifs that we should continue our march to the first water and encamp accordingly we moved on and the Indians all followed. about two miles on the road we arrived at a little branch which run to the wright. here we encamped for the evening having traveled 6 miles today. the two cheifs with their little bands formed seperate camps at a short distance from ours, they all appeared to be in an ill humour. we had been informed some days since that the natives had discovered the deposit of our saddles and taken them away and that our horses were much scattered. we were very anxious to learn the particulars or truth of these reports from the twisted hair, as it must in some measure govern us in the establishment of our perminent camp which in consequence of our detention by the snow of the mountains has become necessary. to obtain our horses and saddles as quickly as possible is our wish, and we are somewhat apprehensive that this difference which has taken place between these Chiefs may millitate against our operations in this rispect. we were therefore desireous to bring about a good understanding between them as soon as possible. The Shoshone boy refused to speak, he aledged it was a quarrel between two Cheifs and that he had no business with it; it was in vain that we urged that his interpreting what we said on this subject was not taking the responsibil ity of the inteference on himself, he remained obstenately silent.

about an hour after we had encamped Drewyer returned from hunting we sent him to the Twisted hair to make some enquiries relative to our horses and saddles and to ask him to come and smoke with us. The Twisted hair accepted the invitation and came to our fire. The twisted hair informed us that accordingly to the promis he had made us when he seperated from us at the falls of the Columbia he collected our horses on his return and took charge of them, that about this time the Cutnose or Neeshneparkkeook and Tun-nach'-emoo-tools or the broken arm returned from a war excurtion against the Shoshonees on the South branch of Lewis's river which had caused their absence when we were in this neighbourhood. that these men became dissatisfyed with him in consequence of our having confided the horses to his care and that they were eternally quarreling with him insomuch that he thought it best as he was an old man to relinquish any further attention to the horses, that they had consequently become scattered; that most of the horses were near this place, a part were in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers and three or four others were at the lodge of the broken Arm about half a days march higher up the river. he informed us with rispect to our saddles that on the rise of the water this spring the earth had fallen from the door of the cash and exposed the saddles, he being informed of their situation had taken them up and placed them in another cash where they were at this time; he said it was probable that a part of them had fallen into the water but of this he was not certain. The Twisted hair said if we would spend the day tomorrow at his lodge which was a few miles only from hence and on the road leading to the Broken arm's lodge, he would collect such of our horses as were near this place and our saddles, that he would also send some young men over the Kooskooske to collect those in the forks and bring them to the lodge of the broken Arm to met us. he advised us to go to the lodge of the broken Arm as he said he was a Cheif of great emenence among them, and promised to accompany us thither if we wished him. we told him that we should take his advice in every particular, that we had confided the horses to his care and expected that he would collect them and deliver them to us which when he performed we should pay him the two guns and amunition we had promised him for that service. he seemed much pleased and promised his utmost exertions. we sent Drewyer to the Cutnose who also came to our fire and smoked with ourselves and the Twisted hair we took occasion in the course of the evening to express our regret that there should be a misunderstanding between these Cheifs; the Cutnose told us in the presents of the Twisted hair that he the twisted hair was a bad old man that he woar two faces, that in stead of taking care of our horses as he had promised us that he had suffered his young men to ride them hunting and had injured them very much; that this was the cause why himself and the Broken arm had forbid his using them. the other made no reply. we informed the Cutnose of our intention of spending tomorrow at the Twisted hair's lodge in order to collect our horses and saddles and that we should proceede the next day to the Broken Arm's lodge, he appeared well satisfyed with this arrangement and said he would continue with us, and would give us any a.s.sistance in his power; he said he knew the broken arm expected us at his lodge and that he had two bad horses for us, metaphorically speaking a present of two good horses. he said the broken arm had learnt our want of provision and had sent four of his young men with a supply to meet us but that they had taken a different road and had missed us.--about 10 P.M. our guests left us and we layed down to rest.