The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 143

[Clark, September 4, 1806]

Thursday 4th September 1806 The Musquitors became troublesom early this morning I rose at the usial hour found all the party as wet as rain could make them. as we were in want of Some tobacco I purposed to Mr. Airs to furnish us with 4 Carrots for which we would Pay the amount to any Merchant of St. Louis he very readily agreed to furnish us with tobacco and gave to each man as much as it is necessary for them to use between this and St. Louis, an instance of Generossity for which every man of the party appears to acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our accepting a barrel of flourwe gave to this gentleman what Corn we Could Spear amounting to about 6 bushels, this Corn was well Calculated for his purpose as he was about to make his establishment and would have it in his power to hull the Corn & The flower was very acceptable to us. we have yet a little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as high as Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c. at 8 A. M we took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on very well, at 11 A.M.

pa.s.sed the Enterance of the big Sieoux River which is low, and at meridian we came too at Floyds Bluff below the Enterance of Floyds river and a.s.sended the hill, with Capt Lewis and Several men, found the grave had been opened by the nativs and left half Covered. we had this grave Completely filled up, and returned to the Canoes and proceeded on to the Sand bar on which we encamped from the 12th to the 20th of August 1804 near the Mahar Village, here we came to and derected every wet article put out to dry, all the bedding of the party and Skins being wet. as it was late in the evening we deturmined to continue all night. had issued to each man of the party a cup of flour. we See no Species of Game on the river as usial except wild geese and pelicans. I observed near Sergt Floyds Grave a number of fluris.h.i.+ng black walnut trees, these are the first which I have seen decending the river. a little before night Several Guns were heard below and in a direction towards the Mahar village which induced us to suspect that Mr.

McClellin who we was informed was on his way up to trade with the Mahars had arived at the Creek below and that those reports of Guns was Some of his party out hunting. every thing being dry we derected the Perogue & Canoes to be loaded and in readiness to Set out in the morning early. at dark the Musquetors became troublesom and continued So all night the party obtained but little Sleep--we made 36 miles only to daye.

[Clark, September 5, 1806]

Friday 5th September 1806 The Musquetors being So excessively tormenting that the party was all on board and we Set out at day light and proceeded on very well. here the river is bordered on both sides with timber &c becoms much narrower more Crooked and the Current more rapid and Crouded with Snags or Sawyers than it is above, and continus So all day. We did not meet with McClellen as we expected at the Creek. the report of the guns which was heard must have been the Mahars who most probably have just arrived at their village from hunting the buffalow. this is a Season they usialy return to their village to Secure their Crops of Corn Beens punkins &c &c. proceeded on very well pa.s.sd. the blue Stone bluff at 3 P. M here the river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich bottom.

Encamped on the S W Side on a Sand bar at a cut off a little below our Encampment of the 9th of August 1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day- Capt. Lewis still in a Convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Sh.o.r.es to day worth killig only Such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and Hawks &c.-

[Clark, September 6, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day 6th of September 1806 The Musquetors excessively troublesom we Set out early at the great Cut off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent out Several hunters to kill Some of the Elk, they returnd. without killing any as the Elk was wild and ran off much fritened. I Sent the two Small Canoes on a head with derections to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a delay of half an hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point 7 of Pelecan Island a little above the Pet.i.te River de Seeoux we met a tradeing boat of Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St Louis bound to the River Jacque to trade with the Yanktons, this boat was in Care of a Mr. Henry Delorn, he had exposed all his loading and Sent out five of his hands to hunt they Soon arived with an Elk. we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man and gave to each man of the party a dram which is the first Spiritious licquor which had been tasted by any of them Since the 4 of July 1805.

Several of the party exchanged leather for linen s.h.i.+rts and beaver for Corse hats. Those men Could inform us nothing more than that all the troops had movd. from the Illinois and that Genl. Wilkinson was prepareing to leave St. Louis. We advised this trader to treat the Tetons with as much Contempt as possible and Stated to him where he would be benefited by such treatment &c &c. and at 1 P. M Set out those men gave us 2 Shots from a Swivell they had on the bow of their boat which we returned in our turn. proceeded on about 3 miles and Came up with two of the hunters, they had not killd. any thing. at 5 miles we over took the Canoe of the other hunters with Shannon in it floating down, the two fields being in the woods behind we Came too on a Sand bar on the N. E. Side and delayed all the after part of the day for the two Fields, Sent out 3 men to hunt in the bottom up the river and observe if they Saw any Sign of the hunters. the evening proved Cloudy and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed to day. we came 30 Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not join us I think they are below. The Chief & the Squaws & children are awarey of their journey.

Children cry &c.

[Clark, September 7, 1806]

Sunday 7th September 1806 as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were behind I derected Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to Continue untill Meridian and if those men did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if we met with them at any Short distance a gun Should be fired which would be a Signal for him to proceed on. we had proceeded on about 8 miles by water and the distance through not more than 1 mile when we Saw the fire of those 2 men, I derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed on, and took the boys on board. they had killed nothing & informed me they had been Somewhat almd. at our delay, that the distance across from the little Sieoux river was about 1 1/2 miles only, the bottoms thick and Gra.s.s very high. we proceded on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the evaperation on this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we a.s.sended this river, and it now appears to be greater than it was at that time. I am obliged to replenish my ink Stand every day with fresh ink at least 9/10 of which must evaperate.) we proceded on to a bottom on the S W Side a little above the Soldiers river and Came too and Sent out all the hunters. they killed 3 Elk which was at no great distance we Sent out the men and had the flesh brought in Cooked and Dined.

Sergt. Ordway Came up & after takeing a Sumptious Dinner we all Set out at 4 P M wind ahead as usial. at Dusk we came too on the lower part of a Sand bar on the S W side found the Musquetors excessively tormenting not withstanding a Stiff breeze from the S. E. a little after dark the wind increased the Musquetors dispersed our Camp of this night is about 2 miles below our Encampment of the 4th of august 1804 ascending we came 44 miles to day only

[Clark, September 8, 1806]

Munday 8th September 1806 Set out very early this morning, pa.s.sed an old tradeing house on the S W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at 11 A M we Came too at the bluffs and Capt Lewis and myself walked up on the bluffs and around to examine the Country and Situation more particularly, the Situation appeared to us eaqually as eligable as when we pa.s.sed up for an establishment, the hill high and Commanding with a high rich bottom of great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being anxious to get to the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers very well, and we arived at our old encampment at White Catfish Camp 12 miles above the river platt at which place we lay from the 22th to the 26th of July 1804 here we encamped haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at this place does not appear to Contain more water than it did 1000 Miles above this, the evaperation must be emence; in the last 1000 miles this river receives the water 20 rivers and maney Creeks Several of the Rivers large and the Size of this river or the quant.i.ty of water does not appear to increas any-

[Clark, September 9, 1806]

Tuesday 9th September 1806 Set out early at 8 A. M pa.s.sed the enterance of the great river Platt which is at this time low the water nearly clear the Current turbelant as usial; the Sand bars which Choked up the Missouri and Confined the river to a narrow Snagey Chanel are wastd a way and nothing remains but a fiew Small remains of the bear which is covered with drift wood, below the R. Platt the Current of the Missouri becomes evidently more rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad to pa.s.s late in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie and encamped imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th and 17th of July 1804.

haveing made 73 miles only to day. The river bottoms are extencive rich and Covered with tall large timber, and the hollows of the reveins may be Said to be covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and Some walnut & hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on, and every day appears produce new anxieties in them to get to their Country and friends. My worthy friend Cap Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds are heeled up and he Can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he Could. the parts are yet tender &c. &.

The Musquetors are yet troublesom, tho not So much So as they were above the River platt. the Climate is every day preceptably wormer and air more Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights are now So worm that I sleep Comfortable under a thin blanket, a fiew days past 2 was not more than Sufficient

[Clark, September 10, 1806]

Wednesday 10th of September 1806 we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very well with wind moderately a head at ____ P M we met a Mr. Alexander La fa.s.s and three french men from St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we axcepted of a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party, Mr. la frost informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had decended the Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7 Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4 miles above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country narrow and more moveing Sands and a much greater quant.i.ty of Sawyers or Snags than above. Great caution and much attention is required to Stear Clear of all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made 65 Miles to day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Sh.o.r.es to day one of the men killed a rac.o.o.n which the indians very much admired.

[Clark, September 11, 1806]

Thursday 11th Septr. 1806 a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill after Sunrise at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well, pa.s.sed the nemahar which was low and did not appear as wide as when we pa.s.sed up. Wolf river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little above the Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E.

Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney places Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Sh.o.r.es much deer Sign--the mosquitoes are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot account. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after we had encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled those of our Common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to be the dogs of Some boat a.s.sending which was yet below us. the barking of those little wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as also the other Side of the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much resembles or Sounds to me like our Common Small Cur dogs that I have frequently mistaken them for that Speces of dog--The papaws nearly ripe

[Clark, September 12, 1806]

Friday 12th of September 1806 a thick fog a litile before day which blew off at day light. a heavy Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the usial hour and proceeded on very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from St. Louis one contained the property of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on River Platt, the other going up trapping as high as the Mahars. here we met one of the french men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he informed us that Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head Soon after we pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Sh.o.r.e who informed us that he was one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance below, we took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at the St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined the instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U.

States to that nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara Cheif who had visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City of Was.h.i.+ngton, he was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture & make every enquirey after Capt Lewis my self and the party Mr. Durion was enstructed to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pa.s.s him with his presents & by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on Some of the Princ.i.p.al chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit the Seat of the Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make every enquirey after us. we made Some Small addition to his instructions by extending the number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from each band including the Yanktons &c. Mr. McClellin receved us very politely, and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing to be wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all night, we despatched the two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them

[Clark, September 13, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day 13th September 1806 rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram and a little after Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A M we landed at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head, they had killed nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in Safty through the emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded to lye by and Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill Some meat, we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one turky and informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was impossible to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a little Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank about a pint and found great relief at 11 A.M. we proceeded on about 1 mile and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed untill 5 P. M when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on down a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man George Shannon left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife and did not think of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the thick rushes and the Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as cotton wood, Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut, hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, p.r.i.c.kly ash, &c and Grape vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the hooting owl and hawks, &c. &c.-

[Clark, September 14, 1806]

Sunday 14th Sept. 1806 Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the part of the Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season of the year for the purpose of robbing the perogues pa.s.sing up to other nations above, we have every reason to expect to meet with them, and agreeably to their Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues and takeing what they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for the Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P.M. a little below the lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friends.h.i.+p and pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, & part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats, makeing every enquirey into the state of our friends and Country &c.

those men were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer on the banks and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer were Meager. we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing decended only 53 miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs untill 11 oClock at night in the greatest harmoney.

[Clark, September 15, 1806]

Monday 15th of September 1806 we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several deer Swiming the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A.M. pa.s.sed the enterance of the Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile below we landed and Capt Lewis and my Self a.s.sended a hill which appeared to have a Commanding Situation for a fort, the Sh.o.r.e is bold and rocky imediately at the foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect Command of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view of the Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only to let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country abounds, and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a Small Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they Soon Came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the greater part of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short distance Above Hay Cabin Creek we are not tormented by the Musquetors in this lower portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and above its enterance into the Missouri. we pa.s.sd Some of the most Charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by no means bad, all well timberd. the weather disagreeably worm and if it was not for the constant winds which blow from the S. and S E. we Should be almost Suficated Comeing out of a northern Country open and Cool between the Latd. Of 46 and 49 North in which we had been for nearly two years, rapidly decending into a woody Country in a wormer Climate between the Latds. 38& 39 North is probably the Cause of our experiencing the heat much more Senceable than those who have Continued within the parralel of Lat.i.tude.

[Clark, September 16, 1806]

Tuesday 16th September 1806 we Set out early this morning and proceded on tolerably well the Day proved excessively worm and disagreeable, So much So that the men rowed but little, at 10 A M we met a large tradeing perogue bound for the Panias we continued but a Short time with them. at 11 A. M we met young Mr. Bobidoux with a large boat of six ores and 2 Canoes, the licenes of this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars and ottoes reather an extroadanary a license for young a man and without the Seal of the teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkensons Signeture was not to this instrement we were Somewhat doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signeture we were not acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. we made Some enquireys of this young man and Cautioned him against prosueing the Steps of his brother in attempting to degrade the American Charector in the eyes of the Indians. we proceeded on to an Island a little above our encampment of the 16th & 17th of June 1804 haveing Came 52 miles only to day.

[Clark, September 17, 1806]

Wednesday 17th September 1806 We Set out as usial early pa.s.s the Island of the little Osage Village which is considered by the navigater of this river to be the worst place in it. at this place water of the Missouri is confined between an Island and the S E main Sh.o.r.e and pa.s.ses through a narrow chanel for more than 2 miles which is crouded with Snags in maney places quite across obligeing the navigater to pica, his pa.s.sage between those Snags as he can, in maney places the current pa.s.sing with great velocity against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11 A.M. we met a Captain McClellin late a Capt. of Artily of the U States Army a.s.sending in a large boat. this gentleman an acquaintance of my friend Capt.

Lewis was Somewhat astonished to See us return and appeared rejoiced to meet us. we found him a man of information and from whome we received a partial account of the political State of our Country, we were makeing enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night. this Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given out by the people of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton, the President of the U. States had yet hopes of us; we received some civilities of Capt.

McClellin, he gave us Some Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for which our party were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel of corn & much obliges to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he was on reather a speculative expedition to the confines of New Spain, with the view to entroduce a trade with those people. his plan is to proceede up this river to the Entcrance of the river platt there to form an establishment from which to trade partially with the Panas & Ottoes, to form an acquaintance with the Panias and provail Some of their princ.i.p.al Chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee where he will appear in a stile calculated to atract the Spanish government in that quarter and through the influence of a handsome present he expects to be promited to exchange his merchindize for Silver & gold of which those people abound. he has a kind of introductory Speach from Govr.

Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a quant.i.ty of presents of his own which he purposes distributing to the Panias and ELeatans with a view to gain their protection in the execution of his plans, if the Spanish Governmt. favour his plans, he purposes takeing his merchendize on mules & horses which Can easily be procured of the panias, to Some point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within the Louisiana Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico may meet him for the purpose of trade &c. Capt McClellins plan I think a very good one if strictly prosued &c.

we Sent 5 hunters a head with directions to halt below Grand river and hunt untill we arived which would be in the morning. This day proved worme. we decended only 30 miles to day and encamped 4 miles above Grand river on S E. Side.