The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 76

the 1s of which I would be most pleased with &c.

I saw Several trees which would make Small Canoes and by putting 2 together would make a Siseable one, all below the last Indian Camp Several miles

[Lewis, August 25, 1805]

Sunday August 25th 1805.

This morning loaded our horses and set out a little after sunrise; a few only of the Indians unengaged in a.s.sisting us went on as I had yesterday proposed to the Cheif. the others flanked us on each side and started some Antelope which they pursued for several hours but killed none of them. we proceeded within 2 Ms. of the narrow pa.s.s or seven miles from our camp of last evening and halted for dinner. Our hunters joined us at noon with three deer the greater part of which I gave the indians. sometime after we had halted, Charbono mentioned to me with apparent unconcern that he expected to meet all the Indians from the camp on the Columbia tomorrow on their way to the Missouri. allarmed at this information I asked why he expected to meet them. he then informed me that the 1st Cheif had dispatched some of his young men this morning to this camp requesting the Indians to meet them tomorrow and that himself and those with him would go on with them down the Missouri, and consequently leave me and my baggage on the mountain or thereabouts. I was out of patience with the folly of Charbono who had not sufficient sagacity to see the consequencies which would inevitably flow from such a movement of the indians, and altho he had been in possession of this information since early in the morning when it had been communicated to him by his Indian woman yet he never mentioned it untill the after noon. I could not forbear speaking to him with some degree of asperity on this occasion. I saw that there was no time to be lost in having those orders countermanded, or that we should not in all probability obtain any more horses or even get my baggage to the waters of the Columbia. I therefore Called the three Cheifs together and having smoked a pipe with them, I asked them if they were men of their words, and whether I could depent on the promises they had made me; they readily answered in the affermative; I then asked them if they had not promised to a.s.sist me with my baggage to their camp on the other side of the mountains, or to the place at which Capt. Clark might build the canoes, should I wish it. they acknowledged that they had. I then asked them why they had requested their people on the other side of the mountain to meet them tomorrow on the mountain where there would be no possibility of our remaining together for the purpose of trading for their horses as they had also promised. that if they had not promised to have given me their a.s.sistance in transporting my baggage to the waters on the other side of the mountain that I should not have attempted to pa.s.s the mountains but would have returned down the river and that in that case they would never have seen anymore white men in their country. that if they wished the white men to be their friends and to a.s.sist them against their enemies by furnis.h.i.+ng them with arms and keeping their enemies from attacking them that they must never promis us anything which they did not mean to perform. that when I had first seen them they had doubted what I told them about the arrival of the party of whitemen in canoes, that they had been convinced that what I told them on that occasion was true, why then would they doubt what I said on any other point. I told them that they had witnessed my liberality in dividing the meat which my hunters killed with them; and that I should continue to give such of them as a.s.sisted me a part of whatever we had ourselves to eat. and finally concluded by telling them if they intended to keep the promisses they had made me to dispatch one of their young men immediately with orders to their people to remain where they were untill our arrival. the two inferior cheifs said that they wished to a.s.sist me and be as good as their word, and that they had not sent for their people, that it was the first Chief who had done so, and they did not approve of the measure. Cameahwait remained silent for some time, at length he told me that he knew he had done wrong but that he had been induced to that measure from seeing all his people hungary, but as he had promised to give me his a.s.sistance he would not in future be worse than his word. I then desired him to send immediately and countermand his orders; acordingly a young man was sent for this purpose and I gave him a handkerchief to engage him in my interest. this matter being arranged to my satisfaction I called all the women and men together who had been a.s.sisting me in the transportation of the baggage and gave them a billet for each horse which they had imployed in that service and informed them when we arrived at the plaice where we should finally halt on the river I would take the billet back and give them merchandize for it. every one appeared now satisfyed and when I ordered the horses loaded for our departure the Indians were more than usually allert. we continued our march untill late in the evening and encamped at the upper part of the cove where the creek enters the mountains; here our hunters joined us with another deer which they had killed, this I gave to the women and Children, and for my own part remained supperless. I observed considerable quant.i.ties of wild onions in the bottom lands of this cove. I also saw several large hares and many of the c.o.c.k of the plains.

Capt. Clark set out early this morning and continued his rout to the indian camp at the entrance of fish Creek; here he halted about an hour; the indians gave himself and party some boiled salmon and hurries. these people appeared extreemly hospitable tho poor and dirty in the extreem. he still pursued the track up the river by which he had decended and in the evening arrived at the bluff on the river where he had encamped on the 21st Inst. it was late in the evening before he reached this place. they formed their camp, and Capt. C. sent them in different directions to hunt and fish. some little time after they halted a party of Indians pa.s.sed by on their way down the river, consisting of a man a woman and several boys; from these people the guide obtained 2 salmon which together with some small fish they caught and a beaver which Shannon killed furnished them with a plentifull supper. the pine grows pretty abundantly high up on the sides of the mountains on the opposite side of the river. one of the hunters saw a large herd of Elk on the opposite side of the river in the edge of the timbered land.--Winsor was taken very sick today and detained Capt C.

very much on his march. three hunters whom he had sent on before him this morning joined him in the evening having killed nothing; they saw only one deer.

The course and the distances, of Capt. Clark's rout down this branch of the Columbia below this bluff, commencing opposite to an Island, are as follow.

This morning while pa.s.sing through the Shoshone cove Frazier fired his musquet at some ducks in a little pond at the distance of about 60 yards from me; the ball rebounded from the water and pased within a very few feet of me. near the upper part of this cove the Shoshonees suffered a very severe defeat by the Minnetares about six years since.

this part of the cove on the N. E. side of the Creek has lately been birned by the Indians as a signal on some occasion.

[Clark, August 25, 1805]

August 25th Sunday 1805 Set out verry early and halted one hour at the Indian Camp, they were kind gave us all a little boiled Sarnmon & dried buries to eate, abt.

half as much as I could eate, those people are kind with what they have but excessive pore & Durtey.--we proceeded on over the mountains we had before pa.s.sed to the Bluff we Encamped at on the 21s instant where we arrived late and turned out to hunt & fish, Cought Several Small fish, a party of Squars & one man with Several boys going down to guathe berries below, my guide got two Sammon from this party (which made about half a Supper for the party), after Dark Shannon came in with a beaver which the Party suped on Sumptiously--one man verry Sick to day which detained us verry much I had three hunters out all day, they saw one Deer, killed nothing. one of the Party Saw 9 Elk on a Mountain to our right a.s.sending, amongst the Pine timber which is thick on that side

[Lewis, August 26, 1805]

Monday August 26th 1805.

This morning was excessively cold; there was ice on the vessels of water which stood exposed to the air nearly a quarter of an inch thick.

we collected our horses and set out at sunrise. we soon arrived at the extreem source of the Missouri; here I halted a few minutes, the men drank of the water and consoled themselves with the idea of having at length arrived at this long wished for point. from hence we proceeded to a fine spring on the side of the mountain where I had lain the evening before I first arrived at the Shoshone Camp. here I halted to dine and graize our horses, there being fine green gra.s.s on that part of the hillside which was moistened by the water of the spring while the gra.s.s on the other parts was perfectly dry and parched with the sun. I directed a pint of corn to be given each Indian who was engaged in transporting our baggage and about the same quant.i.ty to each of the men which they parched pounded and made into supe. one of the women who had been a.s.sisting in the transportation of the baggage halted at a little run about a mile behind us, and sent on the two pack horses which she had been conducting by one of her female friends. I enquired of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, and was informed by him in an unconcerned manner that she had halted to bring fourth a child and would soon overtake us; in about an hour the woman arrived with her newborn babe and pa.s.sed us on her way to the camp apparently as well as she ever was. It appears to me that the facility and ease with which the women of the aborigines of North America bring fourth their children is reather a gift of nature than depending as some have supposed on the habitude of carrying heavy burthens on their backs while in a state of pregnancy. if a pure and dry air, an elivated and cold country is unfavourable to childbirth, we might expect every difficult incident to that operation of nature in this part of the continent; again as the snake Indians possess an abundance of horses, their women are seldom compelled like those in other parts of the continent to carry burthens on their backs, yet they have their children with equal convenience, and it is a rare occurrence for any of them to experience difficulty in childbirth. I have been several times informed by those who were conversent with the fact, that the indian women who are pregnant by whitemen experience more difficulty in childbirth than when pregnant by an Indian. if this be true it would go far in suport of the opinion I have advanced.

the tops of the high and irregular mountains which present themselves to our view on the opposite side of this branch of the Columbia are yet perfectly covered with snow; the air which proceeds from those mountains has an agreeable coolness and renders these parched and South hillsides much more supportable at this time of the day it being now about noon. I observe the indian women collecting the root of a speceis of fennel which grows in the moist grounds and feeding their poor starved children; it is really distressing to witness the situation of those poor wretches. the radix of this plant is of the k.n.o.b kind, of a long ovate form terminating in a single radicle, the whole bing about 3 or four inches in length and the thickest part about the size of a man's little finger. it is white firm and crisp in it's present state, when dryed and pounded it makes a fine white meal; the flavor of this root is not unlike that of annisseed but not so pungent; the stem rises to the hight of 3 or four feet is jointed smooth and cilindric; from r to 4 of those k.n.o.bed roots are attatched to the base of this stem. the leaf is sheathing sessile, & pultipart.i.te, the divisions long and narrow; the whole is of a deep green. it is now in blame; the flowers are numerous, small, petals white, and are of the umbellaferous kind.

several small peduncles put forth from the main stock one at each joint above the sheathing leaf. it has no root leaves. the root of the present year declines when the seeds have been matured and the succeeding spring other roots of a similar kind put fourth from the little knot which unites the roots and stem and grow and decline with the stem as before mentioned. The sunflower is very abundant near the watercourses the seeds of this plant are now rip and the natives collect them in considerable quant.i.ties and reduce them to meal by pounding and rubing them between smooth stones. this meal is a favorite food their manner of using it has been beforementiond. after dinner we continued our rout towards the village. on our near approach we were met by a number of young men on horseback. Cameahwait requested that we would discharge our guns when we arrived in sight of the Village, accordingly when I arrived on an eminence above the village in the plain I drew up the party at open order in a single rank and gave them a runing fire discharging two rounds. they appeared much gratifyed with this exhibition. we then proceeded to the village or encampment of brush lodges 32 in number. we were conducted to a large lodge which had been prepared for me in the center of their encampmerit which was situated in a beautifull level smooth and extensive bottom near the river about 3 miles above the place I had first found them encamped.

here we arrived at 6 in the evening arranged our baggage near my tent and placed those of the men on either side of the baggage facing outwards. I found Colter here who had just arrived with a letter from Capt. Clark in which Capt. C. had given me an account of his peregrination and the description of the river and country as before detailed from this view of the subject I found it a folly to think of attemping to decend this river in canoes and therefore to commence the purchase of horses in the morning from the indians in order to carry into execution the design we had formed of pa.s.sing the rocky Mountains.

I now informed Cameahwait of my intended expedition overland to the great river which lay in the plains beyond the mountains and told him that I wished to purchase 20 horses of himself and his people to convey our baggage. he observed that the Minnetares had stolen a great number of their horses this spring but hoped his people would spear me the number I wished. I also asked a guide, he observed that he had no doubt but the old man who was with Capt. C. would accompany us if we wished him and that he was better informed of the country than any of them.

matters being thus far arranged I directed the fiddle to be played and the party danced very merily much to the amus.e.m.e.nt and gratification of the natives, though I must confess that the state of my own mind at this moment did not well accord with the prevailing mirth as I somewhat feared that the caprice of the indians might suddenly induce them to withhold their horses from us without which my hopes of prosicuting my voyage to advantage was lost; however I determined to keep the indians in a good humour if possible, and to loose no time in obtaining the necessary number of horses. I directed the hunters to turn out early in the morning and indeavor to obtain some meat. I had nothing but a little parched corn to eat this evening.

This morning Capt. C. and party

[Clark, August 26, 1805]

August 26th Monday 1805 a fine morning Despatched three men a head to hunt, our horses missing Sent out my guide and four men to hunt them, which detained me untill 9 oClock a.m. at which time I Set out and proceeded on by the way of the forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me untill I went to Sleep--and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I derected the men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of the large Black gra.s.s hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions

[Clark, August 27, 1805]

August 27th Tuesday 1805 Some frost this morning every Man except one, out hunting, a young man Came from the upper Village & informed me that Capt Lewis would join me abt. 12 oClock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the Indians gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast. Those Pore people are here depending on what fish They Can Catch, without anything else to depend on; and appere Contented, my party hourly Complaining of their retched Situation and doubts of Starveing in a Countrey where no game of any kind except a fiew fish can be found, an Indian brough in to the Camp 5 Sammon, two of which I purchased which afforded us a Supper.

[Clark, August 28, 1805]

August 28th Wednesday 1805 a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of their traps Several Sammon and gave us two, I purchased two others which we made last us to day. Several a Camp of about 40 Indians came from the West fork and pa.s.sed up to day, nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all places where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man to the upper camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c. he returned after night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing me of his Situation at the upper Village, and had precured 22 horses for our rout through by land on the plan which I had preposed in which he agreed with me in; and requsted me to ride up and get the horses the Indian informed him they had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those pore but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I gave three Small fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved, one Indian out all day & killed only one Sammon with his gig; my hunters killed nothing, I had three pack Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on at present are pleasent eateing, not with standing they weaken me verry fast and my flesh I find is declineing

[Clark, August 29, 1805]

August 29th Thursday 1805 a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I left our baggage in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up to join Capt Lewis at the upper Village of Snake Indians where I arrived at 1 oClock found him much engaged in Counceling and attempting to purchase a fiew more horses. I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to impress on theire minds the advantaje it would be to them for to Sell us horses and expedite the our journey the nearest and best way possibly that we might return as Soon as possible and winter with them at Some place where there was plenty of buffalow,--our wish is to get a horse for each man to Carry our baggage and for Some of the men to ride occasionally, The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed as to their Parsture; we cannot Calculate on their carrying large loads & feed on the Gra.s.s which we may Calculate on finding in the Mountain Thro which we may expect to pa.s.s on our rout made Some Selestial observations, the Lard. of this Part the Columbia River is ____ North.

Longtd. ____ W

I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 b.a.l.l.s Powder & a Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their Camp to day. 2 yesterday & 3 The Day before, this meet was a great treat to me as I had eate none for 8 days past

[Clark, August 30, 1805]

August 30th Friday 1805 a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more horse than we had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint number for each of our Party to have one which is our wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men & Sold his musket for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we Purchased pack Cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down the river by land guided by my old guide one other who joined him, the old gude's 3 Sons followed him before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer proceded on 12 miles and encamped on the river South Side--at the time we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of the Band Set out over to the waters of the Missouri. we had great attention paid to the horses, as they were nearly all Sore Backs and Several pore, & young Those horses are indifferent, maney Sore backs and others not acustomed to pack, and as we Cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to purchase as maney as we Can to take our Small propotion of baggage of the Parties. (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on 12 miles to day

[Clark, August 31, 1805]

August 31st 1805 Satt.u.r.day A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we pa.s.sed the lodges at which place I had encamped for thre nights and left 2 men, Those 2 men joined us and we proceeded on in the Same rout I decended the 21st Instant, halted 3 hours on Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze the wind hard from the S. W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with great Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemis were Coming down, armd with guns &c. the inhabitents of the Lodges indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on which I had decended as far as the 1st run below & left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a tolerable road 4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodjes at the place the road leaves the Creek and a.s.sends the high Countrey Six Indians followed us four of them the Sons of our guide; our hunters killed one Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and Sultrey, Praries or open Valies on fire in Several places--The Countrey is Set on fire for the purpose of Collecting the different bands, and a Band of the Flatheads to go to the Missouri where They intend pa.s.sing the winter near the Buffalow Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run

[Clark, September 1, 1805]

September 1st Sunday 1805 a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on over high ruged hills pa.s.sing the heads of the Small runs which fall into the river on our left to a large Creek which falls into the river 6 miles to our left and encamped in the bottom, Some rain to day at 12 and in the evening which obliges us to Continu all night despatched 2 men to the mouth of the Creek to purchase fish of the Indians at that place, They returned with Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day. the Countrey which we pa.s.sed to day is well watered & broken Pore Stoney hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek which is narrow, all the Indians leave us except our Guide, one man Shot two bear this evining unfortunately we Could git neither of them

[Clark, September 2, 1805]

September 2nd Monday 1805 a Cloudy Mornin, raind Some last night we Set out early and proceeded on up the Creek, Crossed a large fork from the right and one from the left; and at 8 miles left the roade on which we were pursuing and which leads over to the Missouri; and proceeded up a West fork without a roade proceded on thro thickets in which we were obliged to Cut a road, over rockey hill Sides where our horses were in pitial danger of Slipping to Ther certain distruction & up & Down Steep hills, where Several horses fell, Some turned over, and others Sliped down Steep hill Sides, one horse Crippeled & 2 gave out. with the greatest dificuelty risque &c. we made five miles & Encamped on The left Side of the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom after night Some time before the rear Came up, one Load left, about 2 miles back, the horse on which it was Carried Crippled. Some rain at night

[Clark, September 3, 1805]

September 3rd Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy morning, horses verry Stiff Sent 2 men back with the horse on which Capt Lewis rode for the load left back last night which detained us until) 8 oClock at which time we Set out. The Country is timbered with Pine Generally the bottoms have a variety of Srubs & the fur trees in Great abundance. hills high & rockey on each Side, in the after part of the day the high mountains closed the Creek on each Side and obliged us to take on the Steep Sides of those Mountains, So Steep that the horses Could Screcly keep from Slipping down, Several Sliped & Injured themselves verry much, with great dificuelty we made ____ miles & Encamped on a branh of the Creek we a.s.sended after Crossing Several Steep points & one mountain, but little to eate I killed 5 Pheasents & The huntes 4 with a little Corn afforded us a kind of Supper, at dusk it began to Snow at 3 oClock Some rain. The mountains to the East Covered with Snow. we met with a great misfortune, in haveing our last Thmometer broken by accident, This day we pa.s.sed over emence hils and Some of the worst roade that ever horses pa.s.sed our horses frequently fell Snow about 2 inches deep when it began to rain which termonated in a Sleet our genl. Courses nearly North from the R