The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 78

[Clark, September 16, 1805]

Sat.u.r.day Septr. 16th 1805 began to Snow about 3 hours before Day and Continud all day the Snow in The morning 4 Inches deep on The old Snow, and by night we found it from 6 to 8 Inches deep I walked in front to keep the road and found great dificuelty in keeping it as in maney places the Snow had entirely filled up the track, and obliged me to hunt Several minits for the track at 12 oClock we halted on the top of the mountain to worm & dry our Selves a little as well as to let our horses rest and graze a little on Some long gra.s.s which I observed, (on) The South Steep hills Side & falling timber Continue to day, and a thickly timbered Countrey of 8 different kinds of pine, which are So covered with Snow, that in pa.s.sing thro them we are continually covered with Snow, I have been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was at one time fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin mockersons which I wore, after a Short delay in the middle of the Day, I took one man and proceeded on as fast as I could about 6 miles to a Small branch pa.s.sing to the right, halted and built fires for the party agains their arrival which was at Dusk verry cold and much fatigued we Encamped at this Branch in a thickly timbered bottom which was Scercely large enough for us to lie leavil, men all wet cold and hungary. Killed a Second Colt which we all Suped hartily on and thought it fine meat.

I saw 4 Black tail Deer to day before we Set out which came up the mountain and what is Singular Snaped 7 tims at a large buck. it is Singular as my gun has a Steel frisen and never Snaped 7 times before in examining her found the flint loose to describe the road of this day would be a repit.i.tion of yesterday excpt the Snow which made it much wors to proseed as we had in maney places to derect our Selves by the appearence of the rubbings of the Packs against the trees which have limbs quiet low and bending downwards

[Clark, September 17, 1805]

Sunday 17th Septr. 1805 Cloudy morning our horses much Scattered which detained us untill one oClock P.M. at which time we Set out the falling Snow & Snow from the trees which kept us wet all the after noon pa.s.sed over Several high ruged k.n.o.bs and Several dreans & Springs pa.s.sing to the right, & pa.s.sing on the ridge devideing the waters of two Small rivers. road excessively bad Snow on the k.n.o.bs, no Snow in the vallies Killed a fiew Pheasents which was not Sufficient for our Supper which compelled us to kill Something. a coalt being the most useless part of our Stock he fell a Prey to our appet.i.tes. The after part of the day fare, we made only 10 miles to day two horses fell & hurt themselves very much. we Encamped on the top of a high k.n.o.b of the mountain at a run pa.s.sing to the left. we proceed on as yesterday, & with dificulty found the road

[Lewis, September 18, 1805]

Wednesday September 18th 1805.

Cap Clark set out this morning to go a head with six hunters. there being no game in these mountains we concluded it would be better for one of us to take the hunters and hurry on to the leavel country a head and there hunt and provide some provision while the other remained with and brought on the party the latter of these was my part; accordingly I directed the horses to be gotten up early being determined to force my march as much as the abilities of our horses would permit. the negligence of one of the party Willard who had a spare horse not attending to him and bringing him up last evening was the cause of our detention this morning untill 1/2 after 8 A M when we set out. I sent willard back to serch for his horse, and proceeded on with the party at four in the evening he overtook us without the horse, we marched 18 miles this day and encamped on the side of a steep mountain; we suffered for water this day pa.s.sing one rivulet only; we wer fortunate in finding water in a steep raviene about 1/2 maile from our camp. this morning we finished the remainder of our last coult. we dined & suped on a skant proportion of portable soupe, a few canesters of which, a little bears oil and about 20 lbs. of candles form our stock of provision, the only recources being our guns & packhorses. the first is but a poor dependance in our present situation where there is nothing upon earth exept ourselves and a few small pheasants, small grey Squirrels, and a blue bird of the vulter kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay bird. our rout lay along the ridge of a high mountain course S. 20 W. 18 in. used the snow for cooking.

[Clark, September 18, 1805]

Monday 18th Septr. 1805 a fair morning cold I proceded on in advance with Six hunters to try and find deer or Something to kill we pa.s.sed over a countrey Similar to the one of yesterday more falling timber pa.s.sed Several runs & Springs pa.s.sing to the right from the top of a high part of the mountain at 20 miles I had a view of an emence Plain and leavel Countrey to the S W. & West at a great distance a high mountain in advance beyond the Plain, Saw but little Sign of deer and nothing else, much falling timber, made 32 miles and Encamped on a bold running Creek pa.s.sing to the left which I call Hungery Creek as at that place we had nothing to eate. I halted only one hour to day to let our horses feed on Gra.s.s and rest

[Lewis, September 19, 1805]

Thursday September 19th 1805.

Set out this morning a little after sun rise and continued our rout about the same course of yesterday or S. 20 W. for 6 miles when the ridge terminated and we to our inexpressable joy discovered a large tract of Prairie country lying to the S. W. and widening as it appeared to extend to the W. through that plain the Indian informed us that the Columbia river, in which we were in surch run. this plain appeared to be about 60 Miles distant, but our guide a.s.sured us that we should reach it's borders tomorrow the appearance of this country, our only hope for subsistance greately revived the sperits of the party already reduced and much weakened for the want of food. the country is thickly covered with a very heavy growth of pine of which I have ennumerated 8 distinct species. after leaving the ridge we a.s.scended and decended several steep mountains in the distance of 6 miles further when we struck a Creek about 15 yards wide our course being S. 35 W. we continued our rout 6 miles along the side of this creek upwards pa.s.sing 2 of it's branches which flowed in from the N. 1st at the place we struck the creek and the other 3 miles further. the road was excessively dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey path generally on the side of steep precipice, from which in many places if ether man or horse were precipitated they would inevitably be dashed in pieces. Fraziers horse fell from this road in the evening, and roled with his load near a hundred yards into the Creek. we all expected that the horse was killed but to our astonishment when the load was taken off him he arose to his feet & appeared to be but little injured, in 20 minutes he proceeded with his load. this was the most wonderfull escape I ever witnessed, the hill down which he roled was almost perpendicular and broken by large irregular and broken rocks. the course of this Creek upwards due W. we encamped on the Stard. side of it in a little raviene, having traveled 18 miles over a very bad road. we took a small quant.i.ty of portable soup, and retired to rest much fatiegued. several of the men are unwell of the disentary. brakings out, or irruptions of the Skin, have also been common with us for some time.

[Clark, September 19, 1805]

Tuesday 19th Septr. 1805 Set out early proceeded on up the Creek pa.s.sing through a Small glade at 6 miles at which place we found a horse. I derected him killed and hung up for the party after takeing a brackfast off for our Selves which we thought fine after Brackfast proceed on up the Creek two miles & left it to our right pa.s.sed over a mountain, and the heads of branch of hungary Creek, two high mountains, ridges and through much falling timber (which caused our road of to day to be double the derect distance on the Course) Struck a large Creek pa.s.sing to our left which I Kept down for 4 miles and left it to our left & pa.s.sed over a mountain bad falling timber to a Small Creek pa.s.sing to our left and Encamped. I killed 2 Pheasents, but fiew birds Blue jay, Small white headed hawk, Some Crows & ravins & large hawks. road bad.

[Lewis, September 20, 1805]

Friday September 20th 1805.

This morning my attention was called to a species of bird which I had never seen before. It was reather larger than a robbin, tho much it's form and action. the colours were a blueish brown on the back the wings and tale black, as wa.s.s a stripe above the croop 3/4 of an inch wide in front of the neck, and two others of the same colour pa.s.sed from it's eyes back along the sides of the head. the top of the head, neck brest and belley and b.u.t.ts of the wing were of a fine yellowish brick reed.

it was feeding on the buries of a species of shoemake or ash which grows common in country & which I first observed on 2d of this month. I have also observed two birds of a blue colour both of which I believe to be of the haulk or vulter kind. the one of a blue s.h.i.+ning colour with a very high tuft of feathers on the head a long tale, it feeds on flesh the beak and feet black. it's note is cha-ah, cha-ah. it is about the size of a pigeon; and in shape and action resembles the jay bird.- another bird of very similar genus, the note resembling the mewing of the cat, with a white head and a light blue colour is also common, as are a black species of woodp.e.c.k.e.r about the size of the lark woodp.e.c.k.e.r Three species of Pheasants, a large black species, with some white feathers irregularly scattered on the brest neck and belley a smaller kind of a dark uniform colour with a red stripe above the eye, and a brown and yellow species that a good deel resembles the phesant common to the Atlantic States. we were detained this morning untill ten oclock in consequence of not being enabled to collect our horses. we had proceeded about 2 miles when we found the greater part of a horse which Capt Clark had met with and killed for us. he informed me by note that he should proceed as fast as possible to the leavel country which lay to the S. W. of us, which we discovered from the hights of the mountains on the 19th there he intended to hunt untill our arrival. at one oclock we halted and made a hearty meal on our horse beef much to the comfort of our hungry stomachs. here I larnt that one of the Packhorses with his load was missing and immediately dispatched Baptiest Lapage who had charge of him, to surch for him. he returned at ;3 OC. without the horse. The load of the horse was of considerable value consisting of merchandize and all my stock of winter cloathing. I therefore dispatched two of my best woodsmen in surch of him, and proceeded with the party. Our rout lay through a thick forrest of large pine the general course being S. 25 W. and distance about 15 miles. our road was much obstructed by fallen timber particularly in the evening we encamped on a ridge where ther was but little gra.s.s for our horses, and at a distance from water. however we obtained as much as served our culinary purposes and suped on our beef. the soil as you leave the hights of the mountains becomes gradually more fertile. the land through which we pa.s.sed this evening is of an excellent quality tho very broken, it is a dark grey soil. a grey free stone appearing in large ma.s.ses above the earth in many places. saw the hucklebury, honeysuckle, and alder common to the Atlantic states, also a kind of honeysuckle which bears a white bury and rises about 4 feet high not common but to the western side of the rockey mountains. a growth which resembles the choke cherry bears a black bury with a single stone of a sweetish taste, it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet and grows in thick clumps. the Arborvita is also common and grows to an immence size, being from 2 to 6 feet in diameter.

[Clark, September 20, 1805]

Wednesday 20th September 1805 I Set out early and proceeded on through a Countrey as ruged as usial pa.s.sed over a low mountain into the forks of a large Creek which I kept down 2 miles and a.s.sended a Steep mountain leaveing the Creek to our left hand pa.s.sed the head of Several dreans on a divideing ridge, and at 12 miles decended the mountain to a leavel pine Countrey proceeded on through a butifull Countrey for three miles to a Small Plain in which I found maney Indian lodges, at the distance of 1 mile from the lodges I met 3 boys, when they Saw me ran and hid themselves searched found gave them Small pieces of ribin & Sent them forward to the village a man Came out to meet me with;great Caution & Conducted us to a large s.p.a.cious Lodge which he told me (by Signs) was the Lodge of his great Chief who had Set out 3 days previous with all the Warriers of the nation to war on a South West derection & would return in 15 or 18 days. the fiew men that were left in the Village aged, great numbers of women geathered around me with much apparent Signs of fear, and apr.

pleased they gave us a Small piece of Buffalow meat, Some dried Salmon beries & roots in different States, Some round and much like an onion which they call quamash the Bread or Cake is called Pa.s.she-co Sweet, of this they make bread & Supe they also gave us the bread made of this root all of which we eate hartily, I gave them a fiew Small articles as preasents, and proceeded on with a Chief to his Village 2 miles in the Same Plain, where we were treated kindly in their way and continued with them all night Those two Villages consist of about 30 double lodges, but fiew men a number of women & children; They call themselves Cho pun-nish or Pierced Noses; " their dialect appears verry different from the Tushapaws altho origneally the Same people" They are darker than the Tushapaws Their dress Similar, with more beads white & blue princ.i.p.ally, bra.s.s & Copper in different forms, Sh.e.l.ls and ware their haire in the Same way. they are large Portley men Small women & handsom fetued Emence quant.i.ty of the quawmash or Pas-s.h.i.+-co root gathered & in piles about the plains, those roots grow much an onion in marshey places the seed are in triangular Sh.e.l.l on the Stalk. they Sweat them in the following manner i. e. dig a large hole 3 feet deep Cover the bottom with Split wood on the top of which they lay Small Stones of about 3 or 4 Inches thick, a Second layer of Splited wood & Set the whole on fire which heats the Stones, after the fire is extinguished they lay gra.s.s & mud mixed on the Stones, on that dry gra.s.s which Supports the Pash-s.h.i.+-co root a thin Coat of the Same gra.s.s is laid on the top, a Small fire is kept when necessary in the Center of the kite &c.

I find myself verry unwell all the evening from eateing the fish & roots too freely. Sent out the hunters they killed nothing Saw Some Signs of deer.

[Lewis, September 21, 1805]

Sat.u.r.day September 21st 1805.

We were detained this morning untill 11 OCk. in consequence of not being able to collect our horses. we then set out and proceeded along the ridge on which we had encamped, leaving which at 11/2 we pa.s.sed a large creek runing to the left just above it's junction with another which run parrallel with and on the left of our road before we struck the creek; through the level wide and heavy timbered bottom of this creek we proceeded about 21/2 miles when bearing to the right we pa.s.sed a broken country heavily timbered great quant.i.ties of which had fallen and so obstructed our road that it was almost impracticable to proceed in many places. though these hills we proceeded about 5 Ms. when we pa.s.sed a small creek on which Capt Clark encamped on the 19th pa.s.sing this creek we continued our rout 5 Ms thro a similar country when we struck a large creek at the forks, pa.s.sed the Northen branch and continued down it on the West side 1 mile and encamped in a small open bottom where there was tolerable food for our horses. I directed the horses to be hubbled to prevent delay in the morning being determined to make a forced march tomorrow in order to reach if possible the open country. we killed a few Pheasants, and I killd a prarie woolf which together with the ballance of our horse beef and some crawfish which we obtained in the creek enabled us to make one more hearty meal, not knowing where the next was to be found. the Arborvita increases in quant.i.ty and size. I saw several sticks today large enough to form eligant perogues of at least 45 feet in length.--I find myself growing weak for the want of food and most of the men complain of a similar deficiency and have fallen off very much. the general course of this day S 30 W 15M.

[Clark, September 21, 1805]

Septr. 21st Sat.u.r.day 1805 a fine morning Sent out all the hunters early in different directions to Kill Something and delayed with the Indians to prevent Suspicion & to acquire as much information as possible. one of them Drew me a Chart of the river & nations below informed of one falls below which the white men lived from whome they got white beeds cloth &c. &c. The day proved warm, 2 Chifs of Bands visited me to day--the hunters all returned without any thing, I collected a horse load of roots & 3 Sammon & Sent R Fields with one Indian to meet Capt Lewis at 4 oClock Set out with the other men to the river, pa.s.sed thro a fine Pine Country decended a Steep ruged hill verry long to a Small river which comes from our left and I suppose it to be ____ River pa.s.sed down the river 2 miles on a Steep hill side at r r oClock P.M. arrived at a camp of 5 Squars a boy & 2 Children those people were glad to See us & gave us drid Sammon one had formerly been taken by the Minitarries of the north & Seen white men, our guide called the Chief who was fis.h.i.+ng on the other Side of the river, whome I found a Cherfull man of about 65 I gave him a Medal.

[Clark, September 21, 1805]

Thursday 21st Septr. 1805 A fine morning Sent out all the hunters in different directions to hunt deer, I myself delayd with the Chief to prevent Susp.i.s.sion and to Collect by Signs as much information as possible about the river and Countrey in advance. The Cheif drew me a kind of chart of the river, and informed me that a greater Cheif than himself was fis.h.i.+ng at the river half a days march from his village called the twisted hare, and that the river forked a little below his Camp and at a long distance below & below 2 large forks one from the left & the other from the right the river pa.s.sed thro'gh the mountains at which place was a great fall of the water pa.s.sing through the rocks, at those falls white people lived from whome they preceured the white Beeds & Bra.s.s &c.

which the womin wore; a Chief of another band visit me to day and Smoked a pipe, I gave my handkerchief & a Silver Cord with a little Tobacco to those Chiefs, The hunters all return without any thing, I purchased as much Provisions as I could with what fiew things I chaned to have in my Pockets, Such a Salmon Bread roots & berries, & Sent one man R. Fields with an Indian to meet Capt. Lewis, and at 4 oClock P M.

Set out to the river, met a man at dark on his way from the river to the village, whome I hired and gave the neck handkerchief of one of the men, to polit me to the Camp of the twisted hare we did not arrive at the Camp of the Twisted hare but oppost, untill half past 11 oClock P M. found at this Camp five Squars & 3 Children. my guide called to the Chief who was Encamped with 2 others on a Small Island in the river, he Soon joind me, I found him a Chearfull man with apparant Siencerity, I gave him a medal &c. and Smoked untill 1 oClock a.m. and went to Sleep.

The Countrey from the mountains to the river hills is a leavel rich butifull Pine Countrey badly watered, thinly timbered & covered with gra.s.s--The weather verry worm after decending into the low Countrey,- the river hills are verry high & Steep, Small bottoms to this little river which is Flat head & is 160 yards wide and Sholey This river is the one we killed the first Coalt on near a fis.h.i.+ng were I am verry Sick to day and puke which relive me.

[Lewis, September 22, 1805]

Sunday September 22cd 1805.

Notwithstanding my positive directions to hubble the horses last evening one of the men neglected to comply. he plead ignorance of the order. this neglect however detained us untill 1/2 after eleven OCk at which time we renewed our march, our course being about west. we had proceeded about two and a half miles when we met Reubin Fields one of oure hunters, whom Capt. Clark had dispatched to meet us with some dryed fish and roots that he had procured from a band of Indians, whose lodges were about eight miles in advance. I ordered the party to halt for the purpose of taking some refreshment. I divided the fish roots and buries, and was happy to find a sufficiency to satisfy compleatly all our appet.i.tes. Fields also killed a crow after refres.h.i.+ng ourselves we proceeded to the village due West 71/2 Miles where we arrived at 5 OCk. in the afternoon our rout was through lands heavily timbered, the larger wood entirely pine. the country except the last 3 miles was broken and decending the pleasure I now felt in having tryumphed over the rocky Mountains and decending once more to a level and fertile country where there was every rational hope of finding a comfortable subsistence for myself and party can be more readily conceived than expressed, nor was the flattering prospect of the final success of the expedition less pleasing. on our approach to the village which consisted of eighteen lodges most of the women fled to the neighbouring woods on horseback with their children, a circ.u.mstance I did not expect as Capt. Clark had previously been with them and informed them of our pacific intentions towards them and also the time at which we should most probably arrive. the men seemed but little concerned, and several of them came to meet us at a short distance from their lodges unarmed.

[Clark, September 22, 1805]

September 22nd Sunday 1805 a fine morning, I proceed on down the little river to about 11/2 a mile & found the Chif in a Canoe Comeing to meet me I got into his Canoe & Crossed over to his Camp on a Small Island at a rapid Sent out the hunters leaving one to take care of the baggage, & after eating a part of a Samn. I Set out on my return to meet Capt. Lewis with the Chief & his Son at 2 miles met s.h.i.+elds with 3 Deer, I took a Small peice & Changed for his horse which was fresh & proced on this horse threw me 3 times which hurt me Some. at Dark met Capt Lewis Encamped at the first Village men much fatigued & reduced, the Supply which I sent by R Flds.

was timely, they all eate hartily of roots & fish, 2 horses lost 1 Days journey back

[Clark, September 22, 1805]

Friday 22nd Septr. 1805 a verry worm day the hunters s.h.i.+ld killed 3 Deer this morning. I left them on the Island and Set out with the Chief & his Son on a young horse for the Village at which place I expected to meet Capt Lewis this young horse in fright threw himself & me 3 times on the Side of a Steep hill & hurt my hip much, Cought a Coalt which we found on the roade & I rode it for Several miles untill we saw the Chiefs horses, he cought one & we arrived at his Village at Sunset, & himself and myslf walked up to the 2d Village where I found Capt Lewis & the party Encamped, much fatigued, & hungery, much rejoiced to find something to eate of which They appeared to partake plentifully. I cautioned them of the Consequences of eateing too much &c.

The planes appeared covered with Spectators viewing the White men and the articles which we had, our party weacke and much reduced in flesh as well as Strength, The horse I left hung up they receved at a time they were in great want, and the Supply I Sent by R. Fields proved timely and gave great encouragement to the party with Captn. Lewis. he lost 3 horses one of which belonged to our guide. Those Indians Stole out of R. F. Shot pouch his knife wipers Compas & Steel, which we Could not precure from them, we attempted to have Some talk with those people but Could not for the want of an Interpreter thro which we Could Speake, we were Compelled to converse Altogether by Signs--I got the Twisted hare to draw the river from his Camp down which he did with great cherfullness on a white Elk Skin, from the 1s fork which is a few seven miles below, to the large fork on which the So So ne or Snake Indians fish, is South 2 Sleeps; to a large river which falls in on the N W. Side and into which The Clarks river empties itself is 5 Sleeps from the mouth of that river to the falls is 5 Sleeps at the falls he places Establishments of white people &c. and informs that great numbers of Indians reside on all those foks as well as the main river; one other Indian gave me a like account of the Countrey, Some few drops of rain this evening. I precured maps of the Country & river with the Situation of Indians, To come from Several men of note Seperately which varied verey little.