The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 81

[Clark, October 8, 1805]

October 8th Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy morning loaded our Canoes which was unloaded last night and Set out at 9 oClock pa.s.sed 15 rapids four Islands and a Creek on the Stard Side at 16 miles just below which one canoe in which Serjt. Ga.s.s was Stearing and was nearle turning over, She Sprung a leak or Split open on one Side and Bottom filled with water & Sunk on the rapid, the men, Several of which Could not Swim hung on to the Canoe, I had one of the other Canoes unloaded & with the a.s.sistance of our Small Canoe and one Indian Canoe took out every thing & toed the empty Canoe on Sh.o.r.e, one man Tompson a little hurt, every thing wet perticularly the greater part of our Small Stock of merchindize, had every thing opened, and two Sentinals put over them to keep off the Indians, who are enclined to theave haveing Stole Several Small articles those people appeared disposed to give us every a.s.sistance in their power dureing our distress--We pa.s.sed Several Encampments of Indians on the Islands and those near the rapids in which places they took the Salmon, at one of Those Camps we found our two Chiefs who had promised to accompany us, we took them on board after the Serimony of Smokeing

[Clark, October 9, 1805]

Octo. 9th all day drying our roots good & articles which got wet in the Canoe last night. our 2 Snake Indian guides left us without our knowledge, The Indians troublesom Stole my Spoon which they returned.

men merry at night & Singular acts of a Ind. woman

[Clark, October 9, 1805]

October 9th Wednesday 1805 The morning Cool as usial the greater part of the day proved to be Cloudy, which was unfavourable for drying our things &c. which got wet yesterday. In examoning our canoe found that by putting Knees & Strong peces pined to her Sides and bottom &c. She Could be made fit for Service in by the time the goods dried, Set 4 men to work at her, Serjt. Pryor & Ga.s.s, Jo Fields & Gibson, others to Collect rosin, at 1 oClock She was finished Stronger than ever The wet articles not Sufficiently dried to pack up obliged us to delay another night dureing the time one man was tradeing for fish for our voyage, at Dark we were informed that our old guide & his Son had left us and had been Seen running up the river Several miles above, we Could not account for the Cause of his leaveing us at this time, without receiving his pay for the Services he had rendered us, or letting us know anything of his intention.

we requested the Chief to Send a horseman after our old guide to come back and recive his pay &c. which he advised us not to do as his nation would take his things from him before he pa.s.sed their camps The Indians and our party were very mery this after noon a woman faind madness &c.

&c. Singular acts of this woman in giveing in Small potions all She had & if they were not received She would Scarrify her Self in a horid manner &c. Capt Lewis recovring fast.

a verry worm day, Indians continue all day on the banks to view us as low as the forks. Two Indians come up in a Canoe, who means to accompany us to the Great rapids, Could get no observations, worm night The water of the South fork is of a bluish green colour

[Clark, October 10, 1805]

October 10th Wednesday Thursday a fine Morning loaded and Set out at 7 oClock at 21/2 miles pa.s.sed a run on the Stard. Side haveing pa.s.sed 2 Islands and two bad rapids at 3 miles lower pa.s.sed a Creek on the Lard. with wide Cotton willow bottoms haveing pa.s.sed an Island and a rapid an Indian Camp of three Lodgs below the Creek at 81/2 miles lower we arrived at the heade of a verry bad riffle at which place we landed near 8 Lodges of Indians on the Lard Side to view the riffle, haveing pa.s.sed two Islands & Six rapids Several of them verry bad-after view'g this riffle two Canoes were taken over verry well; the third Stuck on a rock which took us an hour to get her off which was effected without her receving a greater injurey than a Small Split in her Side which was repared in a Short time, we purchased fish & dogs of those people, dined and proceeded on- here we met with an Indian from the falls at which place he Sais he Saw white people, and expressd an inclination to accompany us, we pa.s.sd. a fiew miles above this riffle 2 Lodges and an Indian batheing in a hot bath made by hot Stones thrown into a pon of water. at this riffle which we Call ragid rapid took meridian alt.i.tude of the Suns upper Limb with s.e.xtt. 74 26' 0" Latd. produced ____ North at five miles lower and Sixty miles below the forks arived at a large Southerly fork which is the one we were on with the Snake or So-So-nee nation (haveing pa.s.sed 5 rapids) This South fork or Lewis's River which has two forks which fall into it on the South the ist Small the upper large and about 2 days march up imediately parrelal to the first villages we Came to and is called by those Indians Par-nash-te on this fork a little above its mouth resides a Chief who as the Indian Say has more horses than he can Count and further Sayeth that Louises River is navagable about 60 miles up with maney rapids at which places the Indians have fis.h.i.+ng Camps and Lodjes built of an oblong form with flat ruffs. below the 1st river on the South Side there is ten established fis.h.i.+ng places on the 1st fork which fall in on the South Side is one fis.h.i.+ng place, between that and the Par nash to River, five fis.h.i.+ng places, above two, and one on that river all of the Cho-pun-nish or Pierced Nose Nation many other Indians reside high up those rivers The Countrey about the forks is an open Plain on either Side I can observe at a distance on the lower Stard.

Side a high ridge of Thinly timbered Countrey the water of the South fork-is a greenish blue, the north as clear as cristial

Imediately in the point is an Indian Cabin & in the South fork a Small Island, we came to on the Stard. Side below with a view to make some luner observations the night proved Cloudy and we were disapointed The Indians Came down all the Couses of this river on each Side on horses to view us as we were desending,--The man whome we saw at the ruged rapid and expressed an inclination to accompany us to the great rapids, came up with his Son in a Small Canoe and procisted in his intentions- worthey of remark that not one Stick of timber on the river near the forks and but a fiew trees for a great distance up the River we decended I think Lewis's River is about 250 yards wide, the Koos koos ke River about 150 yards wide and the river below the forks about 300 yards wide. a miss understanding took place between Shabono one of our interpreters, and Jo. & R Fields which appears to have originated in just--our diet extremely bad haveing nothing but roots and dried fish to eate, all the Party have greatly the advantage of me, in as much as they all relish the flesh of the dogs, Several of which we purchased of the nativs for to add to our Store of fish and roots &c. &c.-

The Cho-pun-nish or Pierced nose Indians are Stout likeley men, handsom women, and verry dressey in their way, the dress of the men are a white Buffalow robe or Elk Skin dressed with Beeds which are generally white, Sea Sh.e.l.ls-i e the Mother of Pirl hung to ther hair & on a pice of otter Skin about their necks hair Cewed in two pa.r.s.els hanging forward over their Sholders, feathers, and different Coloured Paints which they find in their Countrey Generally white, Green & light Blue. Some fiew were a s.h.i.+rt of Dressed Skins and long legins, & Mockersons Painted, which appears to be their winters dress, with a plat of twisted gra.s.s about their necks.

The women dress in a s.h.i.+rt of Ibex, or Goat Skins which reach quite down to their anckles with a girdle, their heads are not ornemented, their s.h.i.+rts are ornemented with quilled Bra.s.s, Small peces of Bra.s.s Cut into different forms, Beeds, Sh.e.l.ls & curios bones &c. The men expose those parts which are generally kept from view by other nations but the women are more perticular than any other nation which I have pa.s.sed in Screting the parts

Their amus.e.m.e.nts appear but fiew as their Situation requires the utmost exertion to prcure food they are generally employed in that pursute, all the Summer & fall fis.h.i.+ng for the Salmon, the winter hunting the deer on Snow Shoes in the plains and takeing care of ther emence numbers of horses, & in the Spring cross the mountains to the Missouri to get Buffalow robes and meet &c. at which time they frequent meet with their enemies & lose their horses & maney of ther people

Ther disorders are but fiew and those fiew of a Scofelous nature. they make great use of Swetting. The hot and cold baethes, They are verry Selfish and Stingey of what they have to eate or ware, and they expect in return Something for everything give as presents or the Survices which they doe let it be however Small, and fail to make those returns on their part.

[Clark, October 11, 1805]

October 11th 1805 a cloudy morning wind from the East We Set out early and proceeded on pa.s.sed a rapid at two miles, at 6 miles we came too at Some Indian lodges and took brackfast, we purchased all the fish we could and Seven dogs of those people for Stores of Provisions down the river. at this place I saw a curious Swet house under ground, with a Small whole at top to pa.s.s in or throw in the hot Stones, which those in threw on as much water as to create the temporature of heat they wished--at 9 mile pa.s.sed a rapid at 15 miles halted at an Indian Lodge, to purchase provisions of which we precred some of the Pash-he-quar roots five dogs and a few fish dried, after takeing Some dinner of dog &c we proceeded on. Came to and encamped at 2 Indian Lodges at a great place of fis.h.i.+ng here we met an Indian of a nation near the mouth of this river.

we purchased three dogs and a fiew fish of those Indians, we Pa.s.sed today nine rapids all of then great fis.h.i.+ng places, at different places on the river saw Indian houses and Slabs & Spilt timber raised from the ground being the different parts of the houses of the natives when they reside on this river for the purpose of fis.h.i.+ng at this time they are out in the Plain on each side of the river hunting the antilope as we are informed by our Chiefs, near each of those houses we observe Grave yards picketed, or pieces of wood stuck in permiscuesly over the grave or body which is Covered with earth, The Country on either Side is an open plain leavel & fertile after a.s.sending a Steep a.s.sent of about 200 feet not a tree of any kind to be Seen on the river The after part of the day the wind from the S. W. and hard. The day worm.

[Clark, October 12, 1805]

October 12th 1805 Sat.u.r.day a fair cool morning wind from E after purchasing all the drid fish those people would Spear from their hole in which they wer buried we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on

[Clark, October 12, 1805]

October 12th Sat.u.r.day 1805 A fair Cool morning wind from the East. after purchaseing every Speces of the provisions those Indians could Spare we Set out and proceeded on at three miles pa.s.sed four Islands Swift water and a bad rapid opposit to those Islands on the Lard. Side. at 141/2 miles pa.s.sed the mouth of a large Creek on the Lard Side opposit a Small Island here the Countrey a.s.sends with a gentle a.s.sent to the high plains, and the River is 400 yards wide about 1 mile below the Creek on the Same Side took meridian alt.i.tude which gave 72 30' 00" Lat.i.tude produced ____ North in the afternoon the wind s.h.i.+fted to the S. W. and blew hard we pa.s.sed to day ____ rapids Several of them very bad and came to at the head of one (at 30 miles) on the Stard. Side to view it before we attemptd. to dsend through it. The Indians had told us was verry bad--we found long and dangerous about 2 miles in length, and maney turns necessary to Stear Clare of the rocks, which appeared to be in every direction. The Indians went through & our Small Canoe followed them, as it was late we deturmined to camp above untill the morning. we pa.s.sed Several Stoney Islands today Country as yesterday open plains, no timber of any kind a fiew Hack berry bushes & willows excepted, and but few drift trees to be found So that fire wood is verry Scerce--The hills or a.s.sents from the water is faced with a dark ruged Stone. The wind blew hard this evening.-

[Clark, October 13, 1805]

October 13th Sunday 1805 rained a little before day, and all the morning, a hard wind from the S West untill 9 oClock, the rained Seased & wind luled, and Capt Lewis with two Canoes Set out & pa.s.sed down the rapid The others Soon followed and we pa.s.sed over this bad rapid Safe. We Should make more portages if the Season was not So far advanced and time precious with us

The wife of Shabono our interpetr we find reconsiles all the Indians, as to our friendly intentions a woman with a party of men is a token of peace

[Clark, October 13, 1805]

October 13th Sunday 1805 a windey dark raney morning The rain commenced before day and Continued moderately until) near 12 oClock--we took all our Canoes through This rapid without any injurey. a little below pa.s.sed through another bad rapid at ____ miles pa.s.sed the Mo. of a large Creek little river in a Stard. bend, imediately below a long bad rapid; in which the water is Confined in a Chanel of about 20 yards between rugid rocks for the distance of a mile and a half and a rapid rockey Chanel for 2 miles above. This must be a verry bad place in high water, here is great fis.h.i.+ng place, the timbers of Several houses piled up, and a number of wholes of fish, and the bottom appears to have been made use of as a place of deposit for their fish for ages past, here two Indians from the upper foks over took us and continued on down on horse back, two others were at this mouth of the Creek--we pa.s.sed a rapid about 9 mile lower. at dusk came to on the Std. Side & Encamped. The two Inds. on horse back Stayed with us. The Countery Thro which we pa.s.sed to day is Simlar to that of yesterday open plain no timber pa.s.sed Several houses evacuated at established fis.h.i.+ng places, wind hard from The S. W. in the evening and not very cold

[Clark, October 14, 1805]

October 14th Monday 1805 a verry Cool morning wind from the West Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on

at this rapid the Canoe a Stern Steared by drewyer Struck a rock turned the men got out on a rock the Stern of the Canoe took in water and She Sunk the men on the rock hel her, a number of articles floated all that Could be Cought were taken by 2 of the othr Canoes, Great many articles lost among other things 2 of the mens beding Shot pouches Tomahaws &c.

&c. and every article wet of which we have great Cause to lament as all our loose Powder two Canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian way, and one half of our goods, fortunately the lead canisters which was in the canoe was tied down, otherwise they must have been lost as the Canoe turned over we got off the men from the rock toed our canoe on Sh.o.r.e after takeing out all the Stores &c. we Could & put them out to dry on the Island on which we found Some wood which was covered with Stones, this is the Parts of an Indian house, which we used for fire wood, by the wish of our two Chiefs--Those Chees, one of them was in the Canoe, Swam in & Saved Some property, The Inds. have buried fish on this Isld. which we are Cautious not to touch. our Small Canoe & three Indians in another was out of Sight at the time our missfortune hapined, and did not join us. wind hard S W.

[Clark, October 14, 1805]

October 14th Monday 1805 a Verry Cold morning wind from the West and Cool untill about 12 oClock When it s.h.i.+fted to the S. W. at 21/2 miles pa.s.sed a remarkable rock verry large and resembling the hull of a s.h.i.+p Situated on a Lard point at Some distance from the a.s.sending Countrey pa.s.sed rapids at 6 and 9 miles. at 12 miles we Came too at the head of a rapid which the Indians told me was verry bad, we viewed the rapid found it bad in decending three Stern Canoes Stuk fast for Some time on the head of the rapid and one Struk a rock in the worst part, fortunately all landed Safe below the rapid which was nearly 3 miles in length. here we dined, and for the first time for three weeks past I had a good dinner of Blue wing Teel, after dinner we Set out and had not proceded on two miles before our Stern Canoe in pa.s.sing thro a Short rapid opposit the head of an Island, run on a Smoth rock and turned broad Side, the men got out on the rock all except one of our Indian Chiefs who Swam on Sh.o.r.e, The Canoe filed and Sunk a number of articles floated out, Such as the mens bedding clothes & Skins, the Lodge &c. &c. the greater part of which were cought by 2 of the Canoes, whilst a 3rd was unloading & Steming the Swift Current to the relief of the men on the rock who could with much dificuelty hold the Canoe. however in about an hour we got the men an Canoe to Sh.o.r.e with the Loss of Some bedding Tomahaws Shot pouches Skins Clothes &c &c. all wet we had every articles exposed to the Sun to dry on the Island, our loss in provisions is verry Considerable all our roots was in the Canoe that Sunk, and Cannot be dried Sufficint to Save, our loose powder was also in the Canoe and is all wett This I think, we Shall saved.--In this Island we found some Split timber the parts of a house which the Indians had verry Securely covered with Stone, we also observed a place where the Indians had buried there fish, we have made it a point at all times not to take any thing belonging to the Indians even their wood. but at this time we are Compelled to violate that rule and take a part of the Split timber we find here bured for fire wood, as no other is to be found in any direction. our Small Canoe which was a head returned at night with 2 ores which they found floating below. The wind this after noon from the S. W. as usial and hard way of the forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch no fish except a few Small ones.

The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me untill I went to Sleep--and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I detected the men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c.

&c. Saw great numbers of the large Black gra.s.s hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions plainly See a rainge of mountains which bore S. E. & N. W. the nearest point south about 60 miles, and becoms high toward the N. W.

The plaines on each Side is wavering. Labiesh killed 2 gees & 2 Ducks of the large kind. at two oClock we loaded & Set out, our Powder & Provisions of roots not Sufficently dry. we Shall put them out at the forks or mouth of this river which is at no great distance, and at which place we Shall delay to make Some Selestial observations &c.

pa.s.sed Eleven Island and Seven rapids to day. Several of the rapids verry bad and dificuelt to pa.s.s. The Islands of different Sizes and all of round Stone and Sand, no timber of any kind in Sight of the river, a fiew Small willows excepted; in the evening the countrey becomes lower not exceding 90 or 100 feet above the water and back is a wavering Plain on each Side, pa.s.sed thro narrows for 3 miles where the Clifts of rocks juted to the river on each Side compressing the water of the river through a narrow chanel; below which it widens into a kind of bason nearly round without any proceptiable current, at the lower part of this bason is a bad dificuelt and dangerous rapid to pa.s.s, at the upper part of this rapid we over took the three Indians who had Polited us thro the rapids from the forks. those people with our 2 Chiefs had proceeded on to this place where they thought proper to delay for us to warn us of the difficulties of this rapid. we landed at a parcel of Split timber, the timber of a house of Indians out hunting the Antilope in the plains; and raised on Scaffolds to Save them from the Spring floods. here we were obliged for the first time to take the property of the Indians without the consent or approbation of the owner. the night was cold & we made use of a part of those boards and Split logs for fire wood. Killed two teel this evening. Examined the rapids which we found more dificuelt to pa.s.s than we expected from the Indians information. a Suckcession of Sholes, appears to reach from bank to bank for 3 miles which was also intersepted with large rocks Sticking up in every direction, and the chanel through which we must pa.s.s crooked and narrow. we only made 20 miles today, owing to the detention in pa.s.sing rapids &c.

[Clark, October 16, 1805]

Oar. 16th 1805 Wednesday a cool morning Set out early pa.s.sed the rapid with all the Canoes except Sgt. Pryors which run on a rock near the lower part of the rapid and Stuck fast, by the a.s.sistance of the 3 other Canoes She was unloaded and got off the rock without any further injorey than, the wetting the greater part of her loading--loaded and proceeded on I walked around this rapid

We halted a Short time above the Point and Smoked with the Indians, & examined the Point and best place for our Camp, we Camped on the Columbia River a little above the point I Saw about 200 men Comeing down from their villages & were turned back by the Chief, after we built our fires of what wood we Could Collect, & get from the Indians, the Chief brought down all his men Singing and dancing as they Came, formed a ring and danced for Some time around us we gave them a Smoke, and they returned the village a little above, the Chief & Several delay untill I went to bead. bought 7 dogs & they gave us Several fresh Salmon & Som horse dried