The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 86

[Clark, November 4, 1805]

November 4th Monday 1805 A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set out at 1/2 past 8 oClock, one man Shannon Set out early to walk on the Island to kill Something, he joined us at the lower point with a Buck. This Island is 6 miles long and near 3 miles wide thinly timbered (Tide rose last night 18 inches perpndicular at Camp) near the lower point of this dimond Island is The head of a large Island Seperated from a Small one by a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard Side, those Islands as also the bottoms are thickly Covered with Pine &c. river wide, Country low on both Sides; on the Main Lard Sh.o.r.e a Short distance below the last Island we landed at a village of 25 Houses; 24 of those houses were thached with Straw, and covered with bark, the other House is built of boards in the form of those above, except that it is above ground and about 50 feet in length and covered with broad Split boards This village contains about 200 men of the Skil-loot nation I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of this village maney of them verry large and raised in bow. we recognised the man who over took us last night, he invited us to a lodge in which he had Some part and gave us a roundish roots about the Size of a Small Irish potato which they roasted in the embers until they became Soft, This root they call Wap-pa-to which the Bulb of the Chinese cultivate in great quant.i.ties called the Sa-git ti folia or common arrow head-. it has an agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of bread. we purchased about 4 bushels of this root and divided it to our party, at 7 miles below this village pa.s.sed the upper point of a large Island nearest the Lard Side, a Small Prarie in which there is a pond opposit on the Stard. here I landed and walked on Sh.o.r.e, about 3 miles a fine open Prarie for about 1 mile, back of which the countrey rises gradually and wood land comencies Such as white oake, pine of different kinds, wild crabs with the taste and flavour of the common crab and Several Species of undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few Cottonwood trees & the Ash of this countrey grow Scattered on the river bank, Saw Some Elk and Deer Sign and Joined Capt. Lewis at a place he had landed with the party for Diner. Soon after Several Canoes of Indians from the village above came down dressed for the purpose as I Supposed of Paying us a friendly visit, they had Scarlet & blue blankets Salors jackets, overalls, s.h.i.+rts and Hats independant of their Usial dress; the most of them had either war axes Spears or Bows Sprung with quivers of arrows, Muskets or pistols, and tin flasks to hold their powder; Those fellows we found a.s.sumeing and disagreeable, however we Smoked with them and treated them with every attention & friends.h.i.+p.

dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my pipe Tomahawk which They were Smoking with, I imediately Serched every man and the canoes, but Could find nothing of my Tomahawk, while Serching for the Tomahawk one of those Scoundals Stole a Cappoe of one of our interpreters, which was found Stufed under the root of a treer, near the place they Sat, we became much displeased with those fellows, which they discovered and moved off on their return home to their village, except 2 canoes which had pa.s.sed on down--we proceeded on met a large & a Small Canoe from below, with 12 men the large Canoe was ornimented with Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man in Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the of the Canoe, rising to near the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with hats on was in this canoe pa.s.sed the lower point of the Island which is nine miles in length haveing pa.s.sed 2 Islands on the Stard Side of this large Island, three Small Islands at its lower point. the Indians make Signs that a village is Situated back of those Islands on the Lard. Side and I believe that a Chanel is Still on the Lrd, Side as a Canoe pa.s.sed in between the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably to traffick with Some of the nativs liveing on another Chanel, at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below quick Sand river pa.s.sed a village of four large houses on The Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt.

Helien which is perhaps the highest pinical in America from their base it bears N. 25 E about 90 miles--This is the mountain I Saw from the Muscle Sh.e.l.l rapid on the 19th of October last Covered with Snow, it rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe--about a mile lower pa.s.sed a Single house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, pa.s.sed a village on each Side and Camped near a house on the Stard. Side we proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get clear of the nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom, finding that we could not get Shut of those people for one night, we landed and Encamped on the Stard. Side Soon after 2 canoes Came to us loaded with Indians, we purchased a fiew roots of them.

This evening we Saw vines much resembling the raspberry which is verry thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at about 5 miles on the Lard Side which runs S. E. & N W. Covered with tall timber the bottoms below in this range of hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw White geese with a part of their wings black. The river here is 11/2 miles wide, and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy Island the brant & geese make Such a noise that it will be impossible for me to Sleap. we made 29 miles to day Killed a Deer and Several brant and ducks. I Saw a Brarow tamed at the 1st village to day The Indians which we have pa.s.sd to day of the Scil-loot nation in their language from those near & about the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little, except they have more of the articles precured from the white traders, they all have flatened heads both men and women, live princ.i.p.ally on fish and Wap pa toe roots, they also kill Some fiew Elk and Deer, dureing the Short time I remained in their village they brought in three Deer which they had killed with their Bow & arrows. They are thievishly inclined as we have experienced.

[Clark, November 5, 1805]

Novr. 5th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning Som rain the after part of last night & this morning.

I could not Sleep for the noise kept by the Swans, Geese, white & black brant, Ducks &c. on a opposit base, & Sand hill Crane, they were emensely numerous and their noise horrid. We Set out at Sun rise & our hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were white with black wings 2 Ducks, and a Swan which were divided, we Came too and Encamped on the Lard.

Side under a high ridgey land, the high land come to the river on each Side. the river about 11/2 mile wide. those high lands rise gradually from the river & bottoms--we are all wet Cold and disagreeable, rain Continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent which is very fat--my feet and legs cold. I saw 17 Snakes to day on a Island, but little appearance of Frost at this place.

[Clark, November 5, 1805]

November 5th Tuesday 1805 Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning, I slept but verry little last night for the noise Kept dureing the whole of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey Brant Ducks &c. on a Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side; they were emensely noumerous, and their noise horid--we Set out early here the river is not more than 3/4 of a mile in width, pa.s.sed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side pa.s.sed 2 houses about 1/2 a mile from each other on the Lard. Side a Canoe came from the upper house, with 3 men in it mearly to view us, pa.s.sed an Isld. Covered with tall trees & green briers Seperated from the Stard. Sh.o.r.e by a narrow Chanel at 9 miles I observed on the Chanel which pa.s.ses on the Stard Side of this Island a Short distance above its lower point is Situated a large village, the front of which occupies nearly 1/4 of a mile fronting the Chanel, and closely Connected, I counted 14 houses in front here the river widens to about 11/2 miles. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large village to view and trade with us, they appeared orderly and well disposed, they accompanied us a fiew miles and returned back. about 111/2 miles below this village on the Lard Side behind a rockey Sharp point, we pa.s.sed a Chanel 1/4 of a mile wide, which I take to be the one the Indian Canoe entered yesterday from the lower point of Immage Canoe Island a Some low clifts of rocks below this Chanel, a large Island Close under the Stard Side opposit, and 2 Small Islands, below, here we met 2 canoes from below,--below those Islands a range of high hills form the Stard. Bank of the river, the Sh.o.r.e bold and rockey, Covered with a thick groth of Pine an extensive low Island, Seperated from the Lard side by a narrow Chanel, on this Island we Stoped to Dine I walked out found it open & covered with gra.s.s interspersed with Small ponds, in which was great numbr. of foul, the remains of an old village on the lower part of this Island, I saw Several deer our hunters killed on this Island a Swan, 4 white 6 Grey brant & 2 Ducks all of them were divided, below the lower point of this Island a range of high hills) which runs S. E. forms the Lard. bank of the river the Sh.o.r.es bold and rockey & hills Covered with pine, The high hills leave the river on the Stard. Side a high bottom between the hill & river. We met 4 Canoes of Indians from below, in which there is 26 Indians, one of those Canoes is large, and ornimented with Images on the bow & Stern. That in the Bow the likeness of a Bear, and in Stern the picture of a man--we landed on the Lard. Side & camped a little below the mouth of a creek on the Stard. Side a little below the mouth of which is an Old Village which is now abandaned-; here the river is about one and a half miles wide, and deep, The high Hills which run in a N W. & S E. derection form both banks of the river the Sh.o.r.e boald and rockey, the hills rise gradually & are Covered with a thick groth of pine &c. The valley which is from above the mouth of Quick Sand River to this place may be computed at 60 miles wide on a Derect line, & extends a great Distanc to the right & left rich thickly Covered with tall timber, with a fiew Small Praries bordering on the river and on the Islands; Some fiew Standing Ponds & Several Small Streams of running water on either Side of the river; This is certainly a fertill and a handsom valley, at this time Crouded with Indians. The day proved Cloudy with rain the greater part of it, we are all wet cold and disagreeable--I Saw but little appearance of frost in this valley which we call Wap-pa-loo Columbia from that root or plants growing Spontaneously in this valley only In my walk of to Day I saw 17 Striped Snakes I killed a grouse which was verry fat, and larger than Common. This is the first night which we have been entirely clear of Indians Since our arrival on the waters of the Columbia River. We made 32 miles to day by estimation-

[Clark, November 6, 1805]

November 6th Wednesday a cold wet morning. rain Contd. untill ____ oClock we Set out early & proceeded on the Corse of last night &c.

[Clark, November 6, 1805]

November 6th Wednesday 1805 A cool wet raney morning we Set out early at 4 miles pa.s.s 2 Lodges of Indians in a Small bottom on the Lard Side I believe those Indians to be travelers. opposit is the head of a long narrow Island close under the Starboard Side, back of this Island two Creeks fall in about 6 miles apart, and appear to head in the high hilley countrey to the N.

E. opposit this long Island is 2 others one Small and about the middle of the river. the other larger and nearly opposit its lower point, and opposit a high clift of Black rocks on the Lard. Side at 14 miles: here the Indians of the 2 Lodges we pa.s.sed to day came in their canoes with Sundery articles to Sell, we purchased of them Wap-pa-too roots, Salmon trout, and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for which I gave 5 Small fish hooks. here the hills leave the river on the Lard. Side, a butifull open and extensive bottom in which there is an old Village, one also on the Stard. Side a little above both of which are abandened by all their inhabitents except Two Small dogs nearly Starved, and an unreasonable portion of flees--The Hills and mountains are covered with Sever kinds of Pine-Arber Vitea or white Cedar, red Loril, alder and Several Species of under groth, the bottoms have common rushes, nettles, & gra.s.s the Slashey parts have Bull rushes & flags--Some willow on the waters edge, pa.s.sed an Island 3 miles long and one mile wide, close under the Stard. Side below the long narrow Island below which the Stard Hills are verry from the river bank and Continues high and rugid on that Side all day, we over took two Canoes of Indians going down to trade one of the Indians Spoke a fiew words of english and Said that the princ.i.p.al man who traded with them was Mr. Haley, and that he had a woman in his Canoe who Mr. Haley was fond of &c. he Showed us a Bow of Iron and Several other things which he Said Mr. Haley gave him. we came too to Dine on the long narrow Island found the woods So thick with under groth that the hunters could not get any distance into the Isld.

the red wood, and Green bryors interwoven, and mixed with pine, alder, a Specis of Beech, ash &c. we killed nothing to day The Indians leave us in the evening, river about one mile wide hills high and Steep on the Std. no place for Several Miles suffcently large and leavil for our camp we at length Landed at a place which by moveing the Stones we made a place Sufficently large for the party to lie leavil on the Smaller Stones Clear of the Tide Cloudy with rain all day we are all wet and disagreeable, had large fires made on the Stone and dried our bedding and Kill the flees, which collected in our blankets at every old village we encamped near I had like to have forgotten a verry remarkable k.n.o.b riseing from the edge of the water to about 80 feet high, and about 200 paces around at its Base and Situated on the long narrow Island above and nearly opposit to the 2 Lodges we pa.s.sed to day, it is Some distance from the high land & in a low part of the Island

[Clark, November 7, 1805]

November 7th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy fogey morning, a little rain. Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on

The womens peticoat is about 15 Inches long made of arber vita or the white Cedar bark wove to a String and hanging down in tossles and tied So as to cover from their hips as low as the peticoat will reach and only Covers them when Standing, as in any other position the Tosels Seperate. Those people Sold us otter Skins for fish hooks of which they wer fond

We delayed 11/2 hour & Set out the tide being up in & the river So Cut with Islands we got an Indian to pilot us into the main chanel one of our Canoes Seperated from us this morning in the fog--great numbers of water fowls of every descriptn. common to this river

[Clark, November 7, 1805]

November 7th Thursday 1805 A cloudy foggey morning Some rain. we Set out early proceeded under the Stard Sh.o.r.e under a high rugid hills with Steep a.s.sent the Sh.o.r.e boalt and rockey, the fog So thick we could not See across the river, two Canos of Indians met and returned with us to their village which is Situated on the Stard Side behind a cl.u.s.ter of Marshey Islands, on a narrow chanl. of the river through which we pa.s.sed to the Village of 4 Houses, they gave us to eate Some fish, and Sold us, fish, Wap pa to roots three dogs and 2 otter Skins for which we gave fish hooks princ.i.p.ally of which they were verry fond.

Those people call themselves War-ci-a-c.u.m and Speake a language different from the nativs above with whome they trade for the Wapato roots of which they make great use of as food. their houses differently built, raised entirely above ground eaves about 5 feet from the ground Supported and covered in the same way of those above, dotes about the Same size but in the Side of the house in one Corner, one fire place and that near the opposit end; around which they have their beads raised about 4 feet from the fore which is of earth, under their beads they Store away baskets of dried fish Berries & wappato, over the fire they hang the flesh as they take them and which they do not make immediate use. Their Canoes are of the Same form of those above. The Dress of the men differ verry little from those above, The womin altogether different, their robes are Smaller only Covering their Sholders & falling down to near the hip--and Sometimes when it is Cold a piec of fur curiously plated and connected So as to meet around the body from the arms to the hips The garment which occupies the waist and thence as low as the knee before and mid leg behind, cannot properly be called a petticoat, in the common acception of the word; it is a Tissue formed of white Cedar bark bruised or broken into Small Straps, which are interwoven in their center by means of Several cords of the Same materials which Serves as well for a girdle as to hold in place the Straps of bark which forms the tissue, and which Strans, Confined in the middle, hang with their ends pendulous from the waiste, the whole being of Suffcent thickness when the female Stands erect to conceal those parts useally covered from familiar view, but when she stoops or places herself in any other att.i.tudes this battery of Venus is not altogether impervious to the penetrating eye of the amorite. This tissue is Sometims formed of little Strings of the Silk gra.s.s twisted and knoted at their ends &c. Those Indians are low and ill Shaped all flat heads

after delaying at this village one hour and a half we Set out piloted by an Indian dressed in a Salors dress, to the main Chanel of the river, the tide being in we Should have found much dificuelty in pa.s.sing into the main Chanel from behind those islands, without a pilot, a large marshey Island near the middle of the river near which Several Canoes Came allong Side with Skins, roots fish &c. to Sell, and had a temporey residence on this Island, here we See great numbers of water fowls about those marshey Islands; here the high mountanious Countrey approaches the river on the Lard Side, a high mountn. to the S W. about 20 miles, the high mountans. Countrey Continue on the Stard Side, about 14 miles below the last village and 18 miles of this day we landed at a village of the Same nation. This village is at the foot of the high hills on the Stard Side back OF 2 Small Islands it contains 7 indifferent houses built in the Same form of those above, here we purchased a Dog Some fish, wappato roots and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for the purpose of makeing me a roab, as the robe I have is rotten and good for nothing. opposit to this Village the high mountaneous Countrey leave the river on the Lard Side below which the river widens into a kind of Bay & is Crouded with low Islands Subject to be Covered by the tides--we proceeded on about 12 miles below the Village under a high mountaneous Countrey on the Stard. Side. Sh.o.r.e boald and rockey and Encamped under a high hill on the Stard. Side opposit to a rock Situated half a mile from the Sh.o.r.e, about 50 feet high and 20 feet Diamieter, we with dificuelty found a place Clear of the tide and Sufficiently large to lie on and the only place we could get was on round Stones on which we lay our mats rain Continud. moderately all day & Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, they we detected in Stealing a knife and returned, our Small Canoe which got Seperated in the fog this morning joined us this evening from a large Island Situated nearest the Lard Side below the high hills on that Side, the river being too wide to See either the form Shape or Size of the Islands on the Lard Side.

Great joy in camp we are in View of the Ocian, this great Pacific Octean which we been So long anxious to See. and the roreing or noise made by the waves brakeing on the rockey Sh.o.r.es (as I Suppose) may be heard distictly

we made 34 miles to day as Computed

[Clark, November 8, 1805]

Novr. 8th Friday 1805 a cloudy morning Some rain and wind we Changed our Clothes and Set out at 9 oClock proceeded on Close under the Stard.

Side

R. Fields Killed a goose & 2 Canvis back Ducks in this bay after Dinner we took the advantage of the returning tide & proceeded on to the 2d point, at which place we found the Swells too high to proceed we landed and drew our canoes up So as to let the tide leave them. The three Indians after Selling us 4 fish for which we gave Seven Small fis.h.i.+ng hooks, and a piece of red Cloth. Some fine rain at intervales all this day. the Swells Continued high all the evening & we are Compelled to form an Encampment on a Point Scercely room Sufficent for us all to lie Clear of the tide water. hills high & with a Steep a.s.sent, river wide & at this place too Salt to be used for Drink. we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been Continually for Severl. days past, we are at a loss & cannot find out if any Settlement is near the mouth of this river.

The Swells were So high and the Canoes roled in Such a manner as to cause Several to be verry Sick. Reuben fields, Wiser McNeal & the Squar wer of the number

[Clark, November 8, 1805]

November 8th Friday 1805 A Cloudy morning Some rain, we did not Set out untill 9 oClock, haveing Changed our Clothing--proceeded on Close under the Stard. Side, the hills high with Steep a.s.sent, Sh.o.r.e boald and rockey Several low Islands in a Deep bend or Bay to the Lard Side, river about 5 or 7 miles wide. three Indians in a Canoe overtook us, with Salmon to Sell, pa.s.sed 2 old villages on the Stard. Side and at 3 miles entered a nitch of about 6 miles wide and 5 miles deep with Several Creeks makeing into the Stard Hills, this nitch we found verry Shallow water and Call it the Shallow nitch we came too at the remains of an old village at the bottom of this nitch and dined, here we Saw great numbers of fowl, Sent out 2 men and they killed a Goose and two Canves back Ducks here we found great numbers of Hees which we treated with the greatest caution and distance; after Diner the Indians left us and we took the advantage of a returning tide and proceeded on to the Second point on the Std.

here we found the Swells or waves So high that we thought it imprudent to proceed; we landed unloaded and drew up our Canoes. Some rain all day at intervales; we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been for Several days past, and our present Situation a verry disagreeable one in as much; as we have not leavel land Sufficient for an encampment and for our baggage to lie Cleare of the tide, the High hills jutting in So Close and Steep that we cannot retreat back, and the water of the river too Salt to be used, added to this the waves are increasing to Such a hight that we cannot move from this place, in this Situation we are compelled to form our Camp between the hite of the Ebb and flood tides, and rase our baggage on logs--We are not certain as yet if the whites people who trade with those people or from whome they precure ther goods are Stationary at the mouth, or visit this quarter at Stated times for the purpose of trafick &c. I believe the latter to be the most probable conjucture--The Seas roled and tossed the Canoes in Such a manner this evening that Several of our party were Sea Sick.

[Clark, November 9, 1805]

Novr. 9th Sat.u.r.day 1805 The tide of last night obliged us to unload all the Canoes one of which Sunk before She was unloaded by the high waves or Swells which accompanied the returning tide, The others we unloaded, and 3 others was filled with water Soon after by the Swells or high Sees which broke against the Sh.o.r.e imediately where we lay, rained hard all the fore part of the day, the tide which rose untill 2 oClock P M to day brought with it Such emence Swells or waves, added to a hard wind from the South which Loosened the Drift trees which is verry thick on the Sh.o.r.es, and tossed them about in Such a manner, as to endanger our Canoes very much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by the party was Scercely Suffient to defend our Canoes from being Crushed to pieces between those emensely large trees maney of them 200 feet long and 4 feet through. The tide of this day rose about ____ feet & 15 Inches higher than yesterday this is owing to the wind which Sets in from the ocian, we are Compelled to move our Camp from the water, as also the loading every man as wet all the last night and this day as the rain Could make them which Contind. all day. at 4 oClock the wind s.h.i.+fted about to the S. W imediately from the ocian and blew a Storm for about 2 hours, raised the tide verry high all wet & cold Labiech killed 4 Ducks very fat & R. Fields Saw Elk Sign.

not withstanding the disagreeable time of the party for Several days past they are all Chearfull and full of anxiety to See further into the ocian. the water is too Salt to Drink, we use rain water. The Salt water has acted on some of the party already as a Pergitive. rain continus.

[Clark, November 9, 1805]

November 9th Sat.u.r.day 1805 The tide of last night did not rise Sufficintly high to come into our camp, but the Canoes which was exposed to the mercy of the waves &c.

which accompanied the returning tide, they all filled, and with great attention we Saved them untill the tide left them dry--wind Hard from the South and rained hard all the fore part of the day, at 2 oClock P M the flood tide came in accompanied with emence waves and heavy winds, floated the trees and Drift which was on the point on which we Camped and tosed them about in Such a manner as to endanger the Canoes verry much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by every individual of the party was Scercely Sufficient to Save our Canoes from being crushed by those monsterous trees maney of them nearly 200 feet long and from 4 to 7 feet through. our camp entirely under water dureing the hight of the tide, every man as wet as water could make them all the last night and to day all day as the rain Continued all day, at 4 oClock P M the wind s.h.i.+fted about to the S. W. and blew with great violence imediately from the Ocian for about two hours, notwithstanding the disagreeable Situation of our party all wet and Cold (and one which they have experienced for Several days past) they are chearfull and anxious to See further into the Ocian, The water of the river being too Salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain water--Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive.

at this dismal point we must Spend another night as the wind & waves are too high to proceed.