The Bread Lover's Bread Machine Cookbook Part 1

The bread lover's bread machine cookbook.

A master baker's 300 favorite recipes for perfect-every-time bread, from every kind of machine.

Beth Hensperger.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

My thanks to editors Dan Rosenberg and Laura Rosenberg. Their interest, intelligent comments, commitment, and hard work have made this book a reality. Laura skillfully and patiently worked with me-a.s.sisting on every step of editing the multiple ma.n.u.script drafts-with friendly encouragement and sensitive advice. Thank you to the publicists and staff at Harvard Common Press who a.s.sisted in the preparation, presentation, and publicizing of this cookbook. And thanks to our project manager, Julie Stillman, wielding her red pen, for her expertise in editing and time spent on overall organization.

To my peerless agent, Martha Ca.s.selman, my admiration and sincere grat.i.tude for her counsel every step of the way, from proposal to galley and beyond. Her knowledge and talent are invaluable. Thanks to her a.s.sistant, Judith Armenta, for her enthusiastic encouragement and, well, just being there.

Thank you to the following contributors; some provided information, others equipment and ingredients, furthering the information available on this new dimension of baking: Susan Anderson of the Regal Corporation; Lisa Brugellis, Welbilt and Appliance Company of America; Jenny Collier, Sunbeam Consumer Affairs; Jeff Hamano, Zojirus.h.i.+ Corporation of America; Dave Oestreicher and Hope Yingst of Hodgson Mill, Inc.; Jim Rogers, Panasonic Corporation; Brinna Sands and P. J. Hamel of King Arthur Flour; Don Stinchcomb of Purity Foods, Inc.; Barbara Westfield of Breadman/Salton; Chuck Williams of Williams-Sonoma; and Randy Watts, President of SAF Consumer Affairs, who donated cases cases of yeast for this project (I used it all!). of yeast for this project (I used it all!).

I wish to express my appreciation to the following recipe testers and contributors for their helpful suggestions, comments, and encouragement: food writer Lynn Alley; Mary Cech of the Culinary Inst.i.tute of America at Greystone; Andi Compton; food writer Marcy Goldman; Erin Kovacs; Jaqueline Higuera McMahan; Gayle and Joe Ortiz; Lou Pappas; M. Quento, who donated the first test machine; Meg Rohacek; Suzanne Rosenblum; Helena Rutkowski; Margery Schneider; Barbara and Jerry Smith; David SooHoo and Elaine Corn; Judith Taylor; Chef Greg Topham, East Meets West Catering Company.

And to Bobbe Torgerson, my recipe tester extraordinaire for many years now, who skillfully and consistently tests myriad recipes with a fine mind to detail and a good heart. I owe her more than I can say or than she would admit.

I wish to add a special note on the contributions of the late Mary Anne McCready, whose generous involvement on this project evolved quickly from recipe tester to co-worker. She was the source of inspiration for many of these recipes and kept me turning out the work on a daily basis; the two of us along with the machines lined up on her kitchen counter, sorting through the initial pile of hundreds of recipe ideas. Her husband, George, ate a lot lot of bread. Her spirit resides within. of bread. Her spirit resides within.

AMERICA'S NEW BREAD BOX

The bread machine. Words that strike terror into the hearts of artisan bakers and advocates of hands-on home baking, while conjuring up visions of delight to the ever-growing hordes of baking enthusiasts who claim they would never bake bread without a machine. An all-in-one appliance that is certainly an innovation in a time-honored craft, a bread machine creates fresh, satisfying, full-flavored yeast breads with no compromise of standards. A large part of the reason that people get so much joy from bread machine baking has little to do with the appliance itself, but comes from the deep emotional value of making bread. Bread machine baking brings the same rewards as any other type of baking. Whether you went out and bought a new machine, inherited one from a friend who never used it, or picked one up at a church rummage sale, whether you embrace this method of baking immediately or retain some skepticism, you will be thrilled with the results if you give this appliance a fair run. Bread machine baking boasts a fast-growing number of advocates, and seekers of gastronomic truth certainly now have to include the bread machine next to pasta makers, cappuccino machines, heavy-duty electric mixers, and food processors on their list of innovations in food preparation that are here to stay. Quite simply, bread machines make fantastic bread.

If, like me, you tried years ago to use a bread machine and were disappointed with the quality of the loaves, take heed: There is a new generation of machines that are nothing short of remarkable. Along with improvements to the hardware, a solid batch of knowledge has acc.u.mulated about how to work effectively with the medium. The common denominator in the new and growing world of bread machine baking is the same enthusiasm, friendliness, and spirit of generosity that generally mark the baker's realm. With some of its activity newly housed in a plastic body, the old-fas.h.i.+oned skill of baking must add a whole new vocabulary to its jargon.

Bread machines are made now by a dozen manufacturers and come in many more dozens of models, with a variety of features and sizes to choose from. They are not only easy to use, but inspire you to customize your own baking cycles and end up turning out breads that rival supermarket loaves and even some bakeries, with their thin, crisp crusts and even, soft-textured crumb. Bread machine baking requires so little of your time that you can enjoy the luxury of fresh bread every day, the way things ought to be. When all the ha.s.sle of baking is removed, you can enjoy the entire process-from shopping for ingredients to hearing the cries of delight from appreciative eaters. With its impressive repertoire of recipes, bread machines can produce bread for everyone and every lifestyle. The bread machine has found a market in many who would otherwise never bake, but enjoy good bread: those with the busiest schedules, like on-the-go moms with little children, bakers who have physical disabilities that might prevent them from preparing bread by hand, and lots of folks, especially men, who love the fact that baking good bread now includes the chance to program digital commands similar to their VCRs. The bread machine has won over many people already skilled at baking by hand, but it has also reached many who were not inspired to learn to bake bread by an older method. Through the bread machine they were introduced to, and are now hooked on, the evocative aroma, taste, and texture of homemade bread.

As someone who was professionally trained as a baker and worked in the field for twenty-five years, naturally I always encouraged fledgling bakers to make bread by hand, using their senses to become familiar with yeast doughs. Once, while teaching a cla.s.s in this manner, I was approached by a student who was older. "Are you telling me that I can't make bread?" she inquired as I proselytized on the handcrafted technique. "I have crippling arthritis and I love to bake. I use either the food processor or the bread machine, and I love the bread I make." She gave me pause to think. Then and there I adapted my opinions and decided that whatever tool could enable a person to make good bread was fine. I began making doughs with an electric mixer, a food processor, and ultimately the bread machine. I found that the practical, mystical, and spiritual elements that make baking satisfying remain the same no matter how you get to the finished loaf.

I have found that bread machine baking is a type of baking unto itself. When you bake with a machine, the technical part of the process is taken out of your hands, which may cause experienced bakers to be concerned about the quality of the loaf that will be produced. But I found, once I began to allow bread machine baking to stand on its own merits and ceased comparing the process to making bread by hand, that the bread machine gave me the freedom to endlessly create and improvise on a few fundamentals. I began to really enjoy the results, too-the wonderful bread! The loaves are different, perhaps, than handmade loaves, but they are beautiful and delicious in their own right. And so, once you've armed yourself with a bit of knowledge, some fresh ingredients, and your beloved machine, I hope you, too, will approach this wonderful new realm of baking with an open mind.

Often described as looking like a leftover robot from Star Wars Star Wars, the maid in a futuristic Jetsons' cartoon, or even a gem tumbler, the bread machine was originally invented to go in small j.a.panese kitchens, which typically have no room for Western-style baking ovens. Contained in this machine that is the size of an old-fas.h.i.+oned bread box are an internal motor that turns a kneading blade, a nonstick mixing and baking canister, an electric coil to bake the loaf, and a microcomputer that tells the machine how to take your loaf right through the traditionally hands-on procedure. Sophisticated electronics control the motor, temperature, humidity, all of the timing, and can even store a recipe file in the bread machine's memory bank. The machine can weigh anywhere from fifteen to twenty pounds, and definitely commands your visual attention as it sits on the kitchen counter. Once you get used to how different it is from the method of preparing bread by hand-in which you have to be watching, waiting, and noting times, and your constant presence is needed-you will see how convenient this method's minimal handling of the dough is, and how the fixed timing of the rising and baking cycles eliminates guesswork. The machine truly does the work, leaving you free to do something else while your bread is being prepared. The process is nothing short of magical.

I feel compelled to warn you that this type of baking is very addictive. Once I got rid of my anxieties about blowing fuses in my tiny kitchen, and set aside my disgruntled att.i.tude about making bread MY way, I couldn't leave the machine alone. This appliance begged me to use it. When each loaf turned out better than the last, I was glad to have hundreds of recipes to test. The amount of actual hands-on baking time, after deciding which bread to make and a.s.sembling the ingredients, is just minutes. And then, aside from putting away the ingredients and wiping up a bit of flour on the counter, there is no cleanup, which is remarkable for a craft that is known for being messy.

To set the process in motion, all you do is a.s.semble, measure, and pour the ingredients into the bread pan that serves as the mixing canister, then push a b.u.t.ton to specify a setting and another to program the timer, if you wish. The machine mixes, kneads, deflates, allows for the proper rising time, bakes, and often cools the loaf, all automatically. The machine does it all-you don't need to know how to bake bread to use it.

With a bread machine, a light, high loaf is the result of using a precise, carefully measured liquid-to-flour ratio in conjunction with the machine's perfectly controlled series of risings. The controls may also be set to "Dough Only," so that the machine can be used just for the mixing-kneading-rising process, after which you can shape the loaf yourself and bake it in your home oven for bread that looks more like the loaves you're used to. Most bread machine models now have a specific setting to produce the crisp crust and airy texture characteristic of bakery-style baguettes and artisan breads, although bread machine loaves will differ in shape from their authentic relatives. You may wish to shape these kinds of doughs by hand into whimsically formed dinner rolls or round country-style loaves and then bake them in a conventional oven. You can almost hear the old French baker sighing, "c'est un scandale!" "c'est un scandale!" at the mere thought of automating his revered techniques. at the mere thought of automating his revered techniques.

A loaf of bread made in the machine is, just like handmade bread, superior in nutrition, texture, and taste to its commercially produced, store-bought cousin. Homemade bread is free of additives, colorants, preservatives, and chemical fixatives. Whenever you have such control over what you put in your bread, you are almost guaranteed quality. While hand-wrought loaves boast an appealing visual charm, each loaf baked in the machine is the same shape as its baking pan. Even so, I find that the loaves fresh from the machine have their own special beauty, eliciting oohs and ahhs from the most stalwart bakers. The aroma and sight of homemade bread are powerfully good-just try to resist tearing off the end of one of these still-warm loaves. These sensory experiences are part of baking's pleasure.

In baking, breads are traditionally defined by the kind of flour used, whether they have yeast or not, their shape, and their added flavorings, all of which give each bread its intrinsic character. Within this book, the recipes vary in each of these regards, with something designed for every type of baker-an impressive variety of breads, from the simple and familiar to the innovative and challenging. There are breads for the health fanatic, breads for those with a sweet tooth, and even breads for those who cannot eat gluten. There are breads loaded with familiar and not-so-familiar ingredients, inventive flat breads, and even artisan breads using the old techniques, adapted here for the bread machine. You will recognize the better-known breads, such as egg breads, yeasted white and whole grain breads, pumpernickel and other ryes, and French bread. The rich and evocative sweet holiday breads, breakfast breads, flatbreads and focaccia, and some of the quick breads may be new areas for you to discover. There is a section on baking with commercial bread mixes and one devoted to pizza, a distinct favorite of home bread machine bakers. You will learn to make them all if you choose. This collection is composed largely of recipes that are made from start to finish in the machine. They are based on cla.s.sic formulas that never go out of style because they are the prescribed universal laws of baking. Each simple ingredient reveals under tones of flavor created by the time-honored, ageless principles of harmony and balance in baking. Good, fresh ingredients need little to unlock their natural flavors.

When you have made just a few loaves in the bread machine, you will already have acquired the confidence that you are a good baker, and you will happily find that your loaves are suitable for accompanying meals, making sandwiches or toast, or using in other recipes. Whether you bake for daily consumption or for the festive holiday, baking with the bread machine is an opportunity to showcase your well-cultivated or newly awakened talents as a baker. If you like ultimate flavor merged with ultimate convenience in homemade bread, this appliance is for you. Baking bread in a bread machine is an easy, satisfying task, and more fun than you can imagine. In the chapter that follows, Orientation, I guide you into the machine's workings and features and through the pantry so you can set your reservations aside and start right now to enjoy baking in your bread machine as much as I do. I wish I could incorporate into these pages the sensuous aromas of these breads as they are going through their cycles and being baked, but they are for you to discover. So go ahead, push the b.u.t.ton, bake bread, enjoy the delectable results, and stand back to collect the compliments.

ORIENTATION.

Batterie de Cuisine: Know Your Bread Machine Taking Stock of Your Machine Features: Cycles and Settings Making Bread The Ingredients Loading the Ingredients into the Bread Machine The Process of Baking Bread in the Bread Machine Learning Recipes High-Alt.i.tude Baking What Can Go Wrong and How to Fix It

BATTERIE DE CUISINE:.

KNOW YOUR BREAD MACHINE.

The three sections that follow will help you become familiar with your machine. They demystify the hardware, offer criteria for how to choose a machine, provide customer service telephone numbers for bread machine manufacturers, and help you figure out what types of bread can be made in your machine. There is a lot of practical information here; you will refer to it often.

Taking Stock of Your Machine Whether you are acquiring a new machine, looking to begin using one that you purchased or received as a gift, or wanting to better utilize the one you've owned for a while, begin with this guide to understanding the components of a bread machine. There are many manufacturers and models of bread machines to choose from. They range from the simple, offering just a few basic cycles, to the more complex, with many cycles and features, and the ideal machine for you depends on what kind of baking you do. This is a place for experimentation. The section on cycles and settings (Features: Cycles and Settings) will help you understand those functions better. Whether simple or complex, it is important for you to know that all bread machines make bread exactly the same way, using the same progression of steps within the cycles. There is a machine for every pocketbook. Prices range from $49 to $249 (sales and discounts are frequently offered), with plenty of models priced in between the economy machines and the sophisticated "luxury" models. Prices generally reflect the number of features the machine has; the more features, the more the machine costs. The prices for the most elaborate and highest quality machines are now $150 to $249, which is remarkable, since just a few years ago you could pay double that amount for a similar machine. There is no one perfect machine; which machine you use is a very personal decision, and you, the baker, will adapt to your machine quickly. All the machines make great bread.

Before we proceed to the basics given here, I should tell you that there are a few not-so-pleasant characteristics common to all bread machine models. All machines operate at a high noise level during the kneading (how high depends on the action of the motor, and an intense action is desirable). But this is only during the kneading phase, and you will quickly get used to your machine's pings, pangs, bangs, creaks, and b.u.mps. Sometimes the baking is uneven, leaving you with a loaf that is shaped, cooked, or browned differently in different parts. Caution must be used in handling the machine or any parts of it during the baking cycle while the machine body radiates heat. The baked bread may occasionally stick in the baking pan (this generally occurs only with the thinner-walled baking pans). The loaves are oddly shaped as compared to traditional hand-shaped ones, and sometimes a slight depression occurs in the top of the loaf caused by over-rising in the warm machine (this doesn't hurt the loaf, which is still delicious). The bread machine is not total perfection, and some models may be easier to use than others. But you should know that though all machines have their quirks, none of which prevent them from producing good bread, you will quickly learn to work around them. While automatic bread-bakers produce bread the "painless" or "no work" way, they are by no means no-brainers. Be prepared to familiarize yourself with the idiosyncrasies of your machine.

Understanding the following basic components will help acquaint you with your machine, or narrow down the choices to fit your needs.

What are the bread machine's dimensions? Bread machines are all countertop appliances, but they have a wide variety of dimensions. Consider your counter s.p.a.ce; a machine should fit in a safe place with minimal activity around it, as the body is very warm or even hot while functioning. It should rest about 4 inches away from all walls and cupboards. Make sure there is room above to open the lid; most machines are taller than they are wide. Some machines are quite compact and s.p.a.ce-efficient, under 14 inches high and 14 inches wide, while others are much larger, like the Zo V20, one of the largest at 17 inches wide, 11 Bread machines are all countertop appliances, but they have a wide variety of dimensions. Consider your counter s.p.a.ce; a machine should fit in a safe place with minimal activity around it, as the body is very warm or even hot while functioning. It should rest about 4 inches away from all walls and cupboards. Make sure there is room above to open the lid; most machines are taller than they are wide. Some machines are quite compact and s.p.a.ce-efficient, under 14 inches high and 14 inches wide, while others are much larger, like the Zo V20, one of the largest at 17 inches wide, 111/2 inches high, and 8 inches high, and 81/2 inches deep. American Harvest makes an even larger side-by-side bucket unit that allows two loaves to bake at the same time. inches deep. American Harvest makes an even larger side-by-side bucket unit that allows two loaves to bake at the same time.

What size loaf does the machine make? Although machines are categorized by pound size, the volume of the loaves is really what differs in different size machines. (A loaf that contains nuts and dried fruit, for example, may be the same size as a loaf that is made with just the basic ingredients, but it will weigh more.) Still, it has become the convention of bread machine manufacturers to designate the volume of a machine in terms of a loaf weight, so that is the terminology used throughout this book. A 1-pounder is a small loaf, a 1 Although machines are categorized by pound size, the volume of the loaves is really what differs in different size machines. (A loaf that contains nuts and dried fruit, for example, may be the same size as a loaf that is made with just the basic ingredients, but it will weigh more.) Still, it has become the convention of bread machine manufacturers to designate the volume of a machine in terms of a loaf weight, so that is the terminology used throughout this book. A 1-pounder is a small loaf, a 11/2-pounder is a medium loaf, and a 2- or 21/2-pounder is large. A machine can always make a smaller loaf, but not a loaf larger, than the capacity of its pan. Figure out what your needs are based on how many people will be eating the bread you make. A single person or a couple would consume the 1- or 11/2-pound sizes. A medium family would eat the 11/2-pound loaf, and for more than four people, a 2-pound loaf is popular (at this writing, it is the top-selling size). There are also a few 21/2-pound-loaf machines on the market.

What shape is the loaf? The unconventional loaves that come out of a bread machine take their shape from their baking pans, and each loaf bears the distinctive mark of the automatic bakery-the hole in the bottom created by the kneading paddle. There are three loaf shapes: round or tall cylindrical (this cube shape is popular since it slices perfectly on the horizontal to fit in a toaster or sandwich bag), vertical rectangle (the most common, and similar to a commercial loaf shape but with fuller sides), and long horizontal (the most similar to a large, standard bread pan and considered by some to be the most attractive loaf-these need two blades to mix the entire dough properly). The vertical rectangle is taller than it is wide, and the long horizontal is oblong. (See The unconventional loaves that come out of a bread machine take their shape from their baking pans, and each loaf bears the distinctive mark of the automatic bakery-the hole in the bottom created by the kneading paddle. There are three loaf shapes: round or tall cylindrical (this cube shape is popular since it slices perfectly on the horizontal to fit in a toaster or sandwich bag), vertical rectangle (the most common, and similar to a commercial loaf shape but with fuller sides), and long horizontal (the most similar to a large, standard bread pan and considered by some to be the most attractive loaf-these need two blades to mix the entire dough properly). The vertical rectangle is taller than it is wide, and the long horizontal is oblong. (See Bread Pan Shapes Bread Pan Shapes for ill.u.s.trations of the bread pans and the loaves they make.) Though this has nothing to do with the shape, I would also note that some brands have heavier aluminum baking pans than others. Bread bakes most evenly in thicker pans. for ill.u.s.trations of the bread pans and the loaves they make.) Though this has nothing to do with the shape, I would also note that some brands have heavier aluminum baking pans than others. Bread bakes most evenly in thicker pans.

Does the lid have a viewing window? Most machines have a small viewing window. While it tends to fog up during the kneading, it does clear again. The window is really good for seeing if the dough has over-risen up to the window and threatens to push open the lid, or for peering in during the baking, when you can't lift the lid. Many veteran bread machine bakers like to be able to completely remove the lid for easy cleaning. Most machines have a small viewing window. While it tends to fog up during the kneading, it does clear again. The window is really good for seeing if the dough has over-risen up to the window and threatens to push open the lid, or for peering in during the baking, when you can't lift the lid. Many veteran bread machine bakers like to be able to completely remove the lid for easy cleaning.

Is the machine a basic or a multifunctional model? There are basic cycles that mix, knead, and bake white bread, fruit and nut breads, and light whole wheats. The newer machines have lots of extras: Jam cycle, Whole Wheat cycle, French Bread cycle, Pizza Dough cycle, and Quick Bread/Cake cycle. If you are into heavier whole wheat and whole grain breads, you will be glad to have a model with a Whole Wheat cycle; it will have the power necessary to drive the blade through heavy doughs. The kneading and rising in this cycle are also geared toward heavier doughs. There is a multipurpose model by Oster that is known for being a great pasta dough maker. Aroma Bread Chef is a rice cooker and yogurt maker, and there is even a model that churns b.u.t.ter! Older models tend to have only the basic features, and some economically priced newer models are rather basic, too. What type of machine you have probably depends on what type of bread you make most. Basic models may meet all the needs of most home bakers, although extra features can be fun to experiment with. Along with more functions comes the need for more digital programming. There are basic cycles that mix, knead, and bake white bread, fruit and nut breads, and light whole wheats. The newer machines have lots of extras: Jam cycle, Whole Wheat cycle, French Bread cycle, Pizza Dough cycle, and Quick Bread/Cake cycle. If you are into heavier whole wheat and whole grain breads, you will be glad to have a model with a Whole Wheat cycle; it will have the power necessary to drive the blade through heavy doughs. The kneading and rising in this cycle are also geared toward heavier doughs. There is a multipurpose model by Oster that is known for being a great pasta dough maker. Aroma Bread Chef is a rice cooker and yogurt maker, and there is even a model that churns b.u.t.ter! Older models tend to have only the basic features, and some economically priced newer models are rather basic, too. What type of machine you have probably depends on what type of bread you make most. Basic models may meet all the needs of most home bakers, although extra features can be fun to experiment with. Along with more functions comes the need for more digital programming.

Many of the older machines and a few of the newer machines do not have built-in timers, although they have become quite standard. The timer enables you to delay the start of the cycle so that the bread will be ready when you want it, up to twenty-four hours after you load and program the machine. Some old models don't have a removable kneading blade; I consider it a must to be able to remove and wash it properly. A handful of machines stop when you open the lid; some people prefer this and others dislike it. Some models have an extra crisping or cool-down phase (which sucks the hot air out of the machine, different than Keep Warm), which could be important if you are not around to remove the bread when it is done.

Does the machine have an audible alert to remind you when to add extra ingredients? It is convenient for the basic cycle to beep as a reminder to add embellishments such as raisins or nuts midway through the kneading, so that they are not pulverized during the mixing. A machine can have this feature built into one or many of its cycles. If your machine does not offer this signal, it is easy enough to set your own kitchen timer to add the extras on your own. See It is convenient for the basic cycle to beep as a reminder to add embellishments such as raisins or nuts midway through the kneading, so that they are not pulverized during the mixing. A machine can have this feature built into one or many of its cycles. If your machine does not offer this signal, it is easy enough to set your own kitchen timer to add the extras on your own. See BREAKFAST BREADS BREAKFAST BREADS for more information. for more information.

Does your machine's digital screen tell you what phase of the cycle it is in? My testers all seemed to like this indicator feature. You don't have to peek, listen, or write down times to gauge where you are. For those who are used to baking by hand, this indicator allows them to orient themselves to what part of the process the machine is in. I tend to use the cycle indicator more often than the timer to judge how close the bread is to being done. My testers all seemed to like this indicator feature. You don't have to peek, listen, or write down times to gauge where you are. For those who are used to baking by hand, this indicator allows them to orient themselves to what part of the process the machine is in. I tend to use the cycle indicator more often than the timer to judge how close the bread is to being done.

Does your machine have a power saver memory? The power saver lets the machine restart where it left off in the event of a brief blackout or if the plug is accidentally pulled out mid-cycle. If the machine does not have the power saver feature, you would have to start the machine from the beginning of the cycle again instead of resuming the process where it left off. No matter what machine you are using, if a power outage happens during the baking part of a cycle, you won't be able to retrieve the loaf at all. (However, dough could be removed and baked in a conventional oven.) The standard time limit of the power saver memory is 60 minutes. The power saver lets the machine restart where it left off in the event of a brief blackout or if the plug is accidentally pulled out mid-cycle. If the machine does not have the power saver feature, you would have to start the machine from the beginning of the cycle again instead of resuming the process where it left off. No matter what machine you are using, if a power outage happens during the baking part of a cycle, you won't be able to retrieve the loaf at all. (However, dough could be removed and baked in a conventional oven.) The standard time limit of the power saver memory is 60 minutes.

What information does the owner's manual provide? Look at the manual provided by the manufacturer. A complete and easy-to-understand owner's manual is a real help. This book offers a great deal of information regarding all aspects of bread machine baking, from descriptions of various features, to troubleshooting, to tips for cleanup. Read your owner's manual and become familiar with its contents. It will tell you the important specifics about your machine, such as the order in which ingredients should be added, and how to program the various cycles and the Delay Timer. Look at the manual provided by the manufacturer. A complete and easy-to-understand owner's manual is a real help. This book offers a great deal of information regarding all aspects of bread machine baking, from descriptions of various features, to troubleshooting, to tips for cleanup. Read your owner's manual and become familiar with its contents. It will tell you the important specifics about your machine, such as the order in which ingredients should be added, and how to program the various cycles and the Delay Timer.

Is service support offered for the machine? Most bread machine manufacturers offer a toll-free customer support line to a.s.sist you with any troubles that arise in your use of the machine (see Most bread machine manufacturers offer a toll-free customer support line to a.s.sist you with any troubles that arise in your use of the machine (see Customer Service Numbers Customer Service Numbers for a list of these numbers). The people who staff these phone lines are generally very knowledgeable. Know the number for your machine's manufacturer, and don't be afraid to use it. While the failure rate of this complex appliance is very low, you should also hold on to your receipt, and be sure you can take the machine back to where you bought it. Again, a good help line can help you a.s.sess whether a problem is caused by the baking method or a faulty machine. A bread machine does have some replaceable parts, such as the drive belt for the blade and a thermal sensor fuse, which can easily be repaired at an authorized service center. Don't attempt home repairs. Finally, be kind to your nonstick pan and paddle; they cost $40 to $60 to replace. If you should need to order replacements, call your customer support line. for a list of these numbers). The people who staff these phone lines are generally very knowledgeable. Know the number for your machine's manufacturer, and don't be afraid to use it. While the failure rate of this complex appliance is very low, you should also hold on to your receipt, and be sure you can take the machine back to where you bought it. Again, a good help line can help you a.s.sess whether a problem is caused by the baking method or a faulty machine. A bread machine does have some replaceable parts, such as the drive belt for the blade and a thermal sensor fuse, which can easily be repaired at an authorized service center. Don't attempt home repairs. Finally, be kind to your nonstick pan and paddle; they cost $40 to $60 to replace. If you should need to order replacements, call your customer support line.

Customer Service NumbersThis list of customer service telephone numbers for the various manufacturers of bread machines is important to keep on hand for any questions that may come up during the operation of your machine, or for repair information.Aroma: 800-276-6286 800-276-6286Betty Crocker: 800-688-8782 800-688-8782Black & Decker: 800-231-9786 800-231-9786Breadman/Salton: 888-889-0899 888-889-0899DAK: Out of business; no customer service line available. Out of business; no customer service line available.Franklin Chef: 800-480-2610 800-480-2610GoldStar: 800-243-0000 800-243-0000Hitachi: 800-448-2244 800-448-2244Oster/Sunbeam: 800-526-2832 800-526-2832Panasonic/National: 800-871-5279/ 800-211-7262 800-871-5279/ 800-211-7262Pillsbury (MK Seiko): 800-858-3277 800-858-3277Sanyo: 800-421-5013 800-421-5013Toastmaster: 800-947-3744 800-947-3744Welbilt: 516-872-1656 516-872-1656West Bend: 800-367-0111 800-367-0111Williams-Sonoma (MK Seiko):800-858-3277Zojirus.h.i.+: 800-733-6270 800-733-6270 Features: Cycles and Settings In the owner's manual, after acquainting you with the parts of the machine, the basic steps to remove and replace the bread pan, and the order in which to place the ingredients in the pan, each manufacturer will list the features, also referred to as the modes of operation or cycles, of the machine. This list of cycles lets you know what types of breads you can make with your machine, and the amount of time it takes to make a loaf on each of these settings. Most booklets tell you in a chart how long each cycle, and even each part of a cycle, takes; the times are a bit different for each brand of machine. All machines have at least four of the following cycles: BASIC.

This setting is also known as Basic Bread, Basic Mode, Basic Wheat, Standard, or White. This is the all-purpose setting you'll probably use most often. The cycle takes three to four hours, depending on your machine. It is the cycle for white breads and whole wheat or whole-grain breads that contain more than 50 percent bread flour. This cycle can also be used for country breads if you don't have a French Bread cycle. Within this cycle there is sometimes the further choice of "Quick" or "Rapid." (Some machines have you program for this separately. See information about the Quick Yeast Bread Quick Yeast Bread cycle). On many of the newer machines, there will be a beep during the Basic cycle to identify when to add any extra ingredients, like raisins or nuts. cycle). On many of the newer machines, there will be a beep during the Basic cycle to identify when to add any extra ingredients, like raisins or nuts.

SWEET BREAD.

The Sweet Bread cycle allows doughs with a higher fat and sugar content to rise more slowly. This cycle has a longer rise and a lower baking temperature, about 250F, since the crust of a sweet bread will brown quicker. There is usually a beep in this cycle for the addition of extra ingredients, like chopped glaceed fruit or nuts. Many sweet breads are also mixed on the Dough cycle, shaped, and baked in the home oven.

FRUIT AND NUT.

Also known as the Raisin Mode or Mix Bread cycle, the Fruit and Nut setting is used for recipes that require the addition of nuts, seeds, chocolate chips, or dried fruit to the dough. This way the extras are not overmixed or pulverized during the vigorous blade action of the kneading phase of the cycle. Many of the newer machines have this audible alert built into the Basic and Whole Wheat cycles, rather than in a separate cycle. When the beep sounds, simply open the lid and pour in the extras. If your machine does not have this cycle, use the Basic cycle for breads made with these ingredients. The audible alert is not a necessity; see Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Working with Dried Fruit Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Working with Dried Fruit for information on adding extra ingredients. Sometimes, if I want to vary the color or taste of a bread, I do add the extras, such as onions and nuts, at the beginning of the cycle so that the kneading action smooshes them and they more or less disintegrate into the dough. for information on adding extra ingredients. Sometimes, if I want to vary the color or taste of a bread, I do add the extras, such as onions and nuts, at the beginning of the cycle so that the kneading action smooshes them and they more or less disintegrate into the dough.

VARIETY.

This was a common feature on the older machines. The Variety cycle runs about the same length of time as the Basic cycle, and has a beep and displays a signal to "shape" so that you can remove the dough after the second rise, fill and shape it by hand, and then return it to the baking canister for a final rise and the baking. You could use this cycle for a cinnamon swirl or monkey bread. This is a fun feature. If your machine does not have it, you can program for the Basic cycle, press Pause to interrupt it after Rise 2, remove the dough and shape it, and then return it to the pan and press Start to resume the cycle and bake the bread.

DOUGH.

This setting may also be known as the Rise or Manual cycle. This is the setting to use when you want to mix and rise a dough in the machine, then remove the dough, shape it by hand, and bake it in your oven. Toast master has the shortest Dough cycle at 1 hour and 3 minutes, 1 hour and 30 minutes is the average, and Panasonic's is the longest at 2 hours and 30 minutes (this includes Preheat). Doughs prepared on this setting are intended to be shaped into traditional loaves or in special ways, such as cloverleaf dinner rolls, egg twists, pizza, croissants, bread sticks, or bagels, and baked in the oven. You can adapt your favorite recipes for this cycle, with respect to using quant.i.ties that will fit in your machine (see Bread Machine Baker's Hint: The Right Amount of Dough Bread Machine Baker's Hint: The Right Amount of Dough for Your Machine for information about maximum capacities). Remove the dough at the beep and proceed to shape as directed in the recipe. Within this cycle is sometimes the further choice of Basic Dough or Quick Dough. for Your Machine for information about maximum capacities). Remove the dough at the beep and proceed to shape as directed in the recipe. Within this cycle is sometimes the further choice of Basic Dough or Quick Dough.

WHOLE WHEAT.

This cycle is also known as the Whole Grain or Basic Wheat mode. This setting allows heavy whole grain flours a nice long kneading time and an extra, and slightly longer, rising time as compared to the Basic cycle, producing a lighter, higher loaf. This is really nice for all sorts of whole wheat breads made with more than 50 percent whole grain flour. It should definitely be used for 100 percent whole wheat or whole-grain breads, and for breads containing specialty flours, such as barley or spelt. Within this cycle is sometimes a further choice of Basic or Quick. On many of the newer machines, there will be a beep during this cycle to identify when to add any extra ingredients, like raisins or nuts. Models that preheat at the beginning of some, but not all, of their cycles generally do preheat in the Whole Wheat cycle.

FRENCH BREAD.

There is often a European, Crisp, or Home made setting for the same purpose. This cycle has become the new rage in bread machine baking. Use this setting for crusty country breads with no fat or sugar that need longer rising times, giving the yeast a good long while to do its work. (Older National machines have this cycle lasting seven hours, which would bring a smile to the face of a traditional baker from France.) This is also the setting to use for sourdough breads made with yeast. The baking temperature is at the high end, about 325F. The breads baked on this cycle are crisp crusted with a fine-textured, chewy inner crumb. Some bakers like a dark crust on their country breads.

QUICK YEAST BREAD.

While the newer models have this cycle as an option within the Basic, Whole Wheat, and Dough cycles, some older models have it as a separate cycle. Also known as Bake (Rapid), Turbo, Quick Bake, or just Quick, this program is specifically designed for use with fast-acting (instant) or quick rise yeast. This cycle skips the second rise, shortening the entire cycle time by forty-five minutes to one hour. You can make virtually any yeast bread recipe on this cycle. See your manufacturer's manual to find out how to adjust the yeast. When using this cycle, it is very important that the ingredients be at room temperature when you put them in the machine it is very important that the ingredients be at room temperature when you put them in the machine. The time the yeast has to work is already shortened; having the ingredients slightly warm at the start ensures that the yeast will get activated right away. In general, this shortened cycle does still give you a very nice loaf of bread. This cycle, or the One Hour cycle, is the one to use for gluten-free yeast breads (Gluten-Free Breads), since these doughs require less rising time. Note that this cycle is not not the same as the Quick Bread cycle. the same as the Quick Bread cycle.

ONE HOUR.

The One Hour cycle is a second type of abbreviated cycle that, as its name implies, produces bread in one hour. Even faster than the Quick Yeast Bread (or Rapid) cycle, the One Hour cycle cuts out more than one rise. It, too, requires the use of fast-acting (instant) or quick-rise yeast. Your manufacturer's manual will tell you how to adjust the yeast in a recipe for this cycle. I find that there is a loss in flavor and keeping quality to breads made on this cycle, so I don't recommend using it. The One Hour cycle can be used in place of the Quick Yeast cycle though when making gluten-free yeast breads (Gluten-Free Breads).

BAKE ONLY.

In newer machines there is sometimes a Bake Only cycle so that a dough that has been prepared on the Dough cycle can be shaped and then returned to the bread machine for baking. You could use Bake Only for a cinnamon swirl bread, or for baking a hand-mixed or a commercial dough. This is the setting to use if you made a dough and planned to bake it in a regular oven, and, well, changed your mind. The Bake Only cycle is invaluable when a cycle ends and a loaf is not quite done baking. You can program Bake Only to continue baking in increments for up to two hours. If you are doing lots of different types of baking, you will use this cycle.

QUICK BREAD.

This setting, also known as Cake, is for non-yeast batters leavened with baking powder or baking soda, such as quick breads and loaf cakes. This cycle mixes the ingredients (although older machines require that the mixing be done by hand and the batter poured into the pan without the kneading blade installed) and bakes without any rise time. There is an option for further baking at one-minute intervals. This cycle works well with packaged commercial mixes for cornbread, quick bread, and pound cake. On some models you have to program the bake time for this cycle; with others it is automatically built into the cycle.

PROGRAM.

Some machines have a function that lets you manually change the cycle times to whatever you want them to be, letting you increase a kneading, rising, or baking time as needed. You can also create your own recipes and program in all the times for them, and the machine will keep the instructions in its memory. This is a feature that I find people use only when they have become very proficient with the basic baking cycles. (Also called Personal Baker.) JAM.

Some of the new machines have a setting for small-batch fresh fruit refrigerator jams (not jellies), with or without pectin. This cycle can also make chutneys and fruit b.u.t.ters. To prevent leakage and overspills, make jam only in a machine that is designed to do so. Be sure to read the chapter on jams in this book (Jams, Preserves, and Chutneys in Your Bread Machine) and the guidelines it provides; there are strict proportions to respect. Skeptical? This is a great great feature, so give it a try. It makes wonderful jam. feature, so give it a try. It makes wonderful jam.

OTHER CYCLES.

Some machines have Sandwich or Tender cycles for breads with a finer texture than those baked on the Basic cycle. Use these cycles for recipes that contain more fat and eggs, ingredients that make a softer bread. The Batter Bread setting, a new addition to Breadman machines, is for making especially moist yeasted breads that don't form a traditional dough ball. As machines become more sophisticated, continue to expect more features. Some machines now offer a Pizza Dough cycle, a Bagel Dough cycle, and a cycle specifically for gluten-free breads (which can also be made on the Quick Yeast Bread or One Hour cycles in other machines). Pasta Dough has its own cycle, a subcycle of the Dough cycle, in some Oster machines (but can easily be made on the Dough cycle in any machine designed to handle heavier doughs).

In addition to their baking cycles, bread machines have some or all of the following features: DELAY FEATURE.

Almost all machines have a Delay Timer, which allows you to place the ingredients in the bread pan, choose the baking cycle, and program the machine to begin the process of mixing and baking your dough 31/2 to 24 hours later. This is a popular feature, since it enables you to program the machine at night and wake up to fresh bread in the morning, or have fresh bread ready when you get home from work. I have noted throughout the book which recipes are not suitable for this cycle, but please remember that whenever you program the machine for a delay of even a few hours, you should not make a bread that calls for any fresh ingredients, such as milk, eggs, or cheese (including cottage cheese, sour cream, or yogurt), bacon, or fresh vegetables. Ingredients such as these can grow harmful bacteria at room temperature that can result in food poisoning. Many bread machine recipes call for dry milk and powdered eggs, which are safe to use with the Delay Timer. to 24 hours later. This is a popular feature, since it enables you to program the machine at night and wake up to fresh bread in the morning, or have fresh bread ready when you get home from work. I have noted throughout the book which recipes are not suitable for this cycle, but please remember that whenever you program the machine for a delay of even a few hours, you should not make a bread that calls for any fresh ingredients, such as milk, eggs, or cheese (including cottage cheese, sour cream, or yogurt), bacon, or fresh vegetables. Ingredients such as these can grow harmful bacteria at room temperature that can result in food poisoning. Many bread machine recipes call for dry milk and powdered eggs, which are safe to use with the Delay Timer.

In order to get optimum results using the Delay Timer, it is important that the yeast not come in contact with the salt (which would inhibit its rising power) nor with any liquid (which would activate it before the mixing began) when the ingredients are standing in the bread pan. Add the liquid ingredients first, then the salt, then all the dry ingredients, and finally the yeast at the end (or switch this order around if your machine so requires). Many bread machine books stipulate this precaution for all their recipes, but it is only really necessary when using the Delay Timer.

PREHEAT.

Some machines have a Preheat or Rest period, which was created so that you could put ingredients at cold and warm temperatures into the machine and have them at a uniform temperature by the time the mixing starts. (Perhaps a throwback to the days of warming the flour on the oven door to take off the chill and encourage the best rising?) This allows the yeast to perform at optimum capacity. This phase lasts from 15 to 30 minutes. Remember that there is no blade action, so the machine will be quiet during this phase. In some of the more sophisticated machines you can bypa.s.s this step, in others you cannot. Some machines have it built into every baking cycle; others, like Breadman machines, just have it on the Whole Wheat cycle. Some people like this feature, believing it produces better bread, and some don't, since it adds time to the whole process. You can use the Program setting (see Program Program), if your machine has it, to bypa.s.s the Preheat cycle.

CRUST CONTROL.

In addition to choosing the cycle for your loaf, most models offer a setting that, by varying the baking temperature or timing slightly, gives you the choice of a light, medium, or dark crust. You are choosing how your loaf will look when it is finished baking. Some models have just two crust choices, Bake (Light) or Bake (Normal), which are built into their Basic cycle. The crust setting, because it does change the baking time and often the temperature, also affects the doneness of a loaf. I usually use the medium or normal crust setting for basic and whole-grain breads, but I almost always check the loaf to make sure the bread has baked all the way through. (See for information on how to check for doneness how to check for doneness.) If the crust on your bread is too light and the loaf is underdone, next time set the crust setting for dark; if the crust is too dark and the bread is overbaked, set it for light. Some people like light crusts on whole wheat breads and dark crusts on their French breads. I set the crust on medium or dark for artisan and country breads, and on light for sweet breads, which brown more quickly due to their higher sugar content. Since the specific ingredients in loaves often have a lot to do with how their crusts brown, it is a good idea to experiment with the crust settings.

LOAF SIZE.

This setting asks you to choose the size loaf you will be making in the machine-1, 11/2, or 2 pound. With this feature, each size loaf has slightly different cycle times and bake times.

PAUSE.

The Pause b.u.t.ton allows you to interrupt a cycle at any point and resume again where it left off. This is different from pus.h.i.+ng Stop/Reset, which cancels the entire cycle. Most of the machines now have a Pause b.u.t.ton, but some of the older or less expensive models do not. If your machine does not have this feature, you may wish to skim some of the more complex recipes in this book before making them-there are a few recipes that require this feature in order to manipulate the cycles.

COOL DOWN OR KEEP WARM.

Bread recipes always state that the loaf needs to be removed from the pan immediately after baking to prevent it from getting soggy. The Cool Down or Keep Warm feature allows the loaf to stay in the baking chamber as some heat or a fan evaporates the excess moisture and pushes it out of the machine. This is not a separately programmable cycle, but, like Preheat, is a feature preset within one or more of the bread cycles on many machines. If you do not remove your loaf from the machine when the baking has finished and press Stop, a machine that has this feature will automatically go into a Cool Down or Keep Warm mode. The bread will be very moist if it stays in the machine on this mode. Without this feature, expect bread that stays in the machine after baking to be wet and soggy. I advise you not to leave a loaf in the machine on this mode unless it is absolutely necessary, when you have used the Delay Timer, for example, or if you are off taking a nap while the machine is running. Surprisingly, I found that country breads benefited from this Cool Down/Keep Warm phase, as it thickened the crust. Whole wheat breads, rather than getting soggier, dry out too much if left in the machine through this part of a cycle.

MAKING BREAD.

This section is very important to understanding baking in your bread machine. It would be worthwhile to familiarize yourself with this information before baking from this book.

The Ingredients All loaves are a combination of flour, leavening, salt, and liquids. The equation is so simple that each loaf is only as good as the ingredients that you use to make it. Additional ingredients such as sweetening, eggs, fat, or other flavor enhancers like cheese and herbs, produce loaves of different flavors and with individual characters. I include vital wheat gluten in the following list of basic ingredients, since it is an essential ingredient in every recipe that is baked in a machine.

FLOUR.

Grains are milled into a powder called flour. This is the foundation of all of the bread we make. Milling is a complex process we take for granted when we buy our 5-pound sacks of flour. Professionals in the flour industry evaluate each crop of grain for protein levels, gluten strength, water absorption, and mixing tolerances. Flours are carefully blended by each mill to give you consistently good bread from scratch.

Wheat makes the flour most commonly used for breads because of its high absorption ability. There are various types and qualities of wheat, and many different flours are milled from it. Bread machine loaves work best with bread flour. Bread flour can also be labeled "high gluten flour" or "best for bread." Bread machine bakers usually have a favorite brand, sometimes labeled "For the Bread Machine" on the package. These blends have a high gluten content that develops well with machine mixing. All bread flour makes a tall, springy loaf. You can also use all-purpose flour in the bread machine if you add enough vital wheat gluten to boost its protein content. All-purpose flour with gluten added can be used in place of bread flour in any recipe in this book. Some recipes here do call for standard all-purpose flour because they are baked outside the machine.

As you grow familiar with your machine, you can use combinations of wheat germ, cracked wheat, rolled grains, whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, and other flours to create loaves in an infinite variety of flavors, textures, and muted earth tones. Every flour absorbs a different amount of moisture and does so at a different rate. Remember that the more non-wheat flour you use in proportion to wheat, the denser the loaf and the slower the rising time. Also, remember that proper measurements make a good loaf. If you don't add enough flour, no matter what the type, you will have a collapsed loaf (collapsing from the top or in from the sides) that is often uncooked in the center. If you add too much flour, you will have a dough that strains during the kneading process and bakes into a hard, dense, heavy ball.

VITAL WHEAT GLUTEN.

Although vital wheat gluten is not a core ingredient when making bread by hand (the gluten contained in the flour is enough to produce a high loaf when mixing and kneading by hand), I single out gluten here as a main ingredient for bread machine baking because all my testing has shown that it yields a better loaf when added to the dry ingredients. Gluten is called for in most of the recipes in this book. It helps make loaves rise higher and gives them more volume. Vital wheat gluten-also known as just plain gluten-is made by was.h.i.+ng the starch from the endosperm in wheat, leaving pure plant protein that is dried, ground, and marketed as a powdered extract. It is not not a flour. Gluten becomes stretchy during mixing and kneading, and is a premium dough conditioner because it helps trap the rising CO a flour. Gluten becomes stretchy during mixing and kneading, and is a premium dough conditioner because it helps trap the rising CO2 in its strong meshwork, making a puffier loaf. If you are experimenting with your own recipes, I recommend using 1 to 2 teaspoons of gluten per cup of white bread flour and 1 in its strong meshwork, making a puffier loaf. If you are experimenting with your own recipes, I recommend using 1 to 2 teaspoons of gluten per cup of white bread flour and 11/2 to 3 teaspoons gluten per cup of whole grain flour for an exquisite texture. Sometimes I add double that if I have a stiff all-whole wheat dough or am using a recipe calling for a non-gluten flour. If you add gluten to one of your existing bread recipes, note that doughs containing gluten can absorb a tablespoon or two more of liquid. to 3 teaspoons gluten per cup of whole grain flour for an exquisite texture. Sometimes I add double that if I have a stiff all-whole wheat dough or am using a recipe calling for a non-gluten flour. If you add gluten to one of your existing bread recipes, note that doughs containing gluten can absorb a tablespoon or two more of liquid.