The Bread Lover's Bread Machine Cookbook Part 16

The simple homemade breads of Italy have become real favorites of American bakers. For good reason: they taste of the earth and of good fresh ingredients. Use organic bread flour here, if you can, or replace the bread flour with clear flour or a portion of Italian-style flour available from The Baker's Catalogue. The creamy, high-protein semolina flour called for is also known as semolina pasta flour or durum flour.

11/2-POUND LOAF11/3 cups water cups water21/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour2/3 cup semolina flour cup semolina flour1 tablespoon instant potato flakes1 tablespoon sugar2 teaspoons gluten11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast2-POUND LOAF12/3 cups water cups water31/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour7/8 cup semolina flour cup semolina flour11/2 tablespoons instant potato flakes tablespoons instant potato flakes11/2 tablespoons sugar tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon gluten2 teaspoons salt21/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 23/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast

[image]Place all the ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Set crust on medium or dark and program for the Basic or French Bread cycle; press Start. (This recipe may be made on the French Bread cycle using the Delay Timer.) If using the Basic cycle, after Knead 2, press Stop, reset the machine, and start the cycle again, allowing the dough to be kneaded an extra time. The dough ball will be moist.

[image]When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan, and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing.

[image]Leftover Bread Cookery: Vegetable Garden PancakesMakes 4 servings or 12 appetizer bites

I love vegetable pancakes with dinner instead of potatoes or rice. They are simple, but they look very special. These vegetable pancakes are great for brunch, as a simple but flavorful side dish to roast meats, or as an appetizer.For the pancakes:3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter or margarine1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil1 large yellow onion, finely chopped1/2 red bell pepper, finely chopped red bell pepper, finely chopped2 stalks celery, finely chopped1 medium zucchini, grated11/2 cups grated carrots or parsnips, or a combination of the two cups grated carrots or parsnips, or a combination of the twoOne 101/2-ounce package chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry3 large eggs3/4 cup fine breadcrumbs, toasted cup fine breadcrumbs, toastedSalt and fresh-ground black pepper or salt-free herb blendOlive oil, for sauteeingFor the garnish:1 cup sour cream1 cup chopped fresh tomato1/4 cup minced fresh chives cup minced fresh chives[image] Melt the b.u.t.ter and oil together over medium heat in a large saute pan. Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes. Add the red pepper, celery, zucchini, and carrots. Cook for 5 minutes more over medium heat, until softened. Add the spinach and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cool 15 minutes to room temperature. Melt the b.u.t.ter and oil together over medium heat in a large saute pan. Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes. Add the red pepper, celery, zucchini, and carrots. Cook for 5 minutes more over medium heat, until softened. Add the spinach and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cool 15 minutes to room temperature.[image] Beat the eggs in a medium bowl. Add the breadcrumbs and stir to moisten evenly. Add the vegetable mixture and season with the salt and pepper or herb blend to taste. Form into patties, 12 small ones for appetizers or 8 larger ones for a side dish. Place on a plate and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 30 minutes, or until close to serving, up to 4 hours. Beat the eggs in a medium bowl. Add the breadcrumbs and stir to moisten evenly. Add the vegetable mixture and season with the salt and pepper or herb blend to taste. Form into patties, 12 small ones for appetizers or 8 larger ones for a side dish. Place on a plate and refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 30 minutes, or until close to serving, up to 4 hours.[image] Heat a large saute pan over medium heat until a drop of water skates over the surface. Add olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan, and allow it to heat. Add the pancakes and cook until the edges are dry and the bottoms are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook the opposite sides until golden, about 2 minutes more. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200F oven, covered with foil, until ready to serve. Garnish with sour cream and chopped tomato and chives. Serve immediately. Heat a large saute pan over medium heat until a drop of water skates over the surface. Add olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan, and allow it to heat. Add the pancakes and cook until the edges are dry and the bottoms are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook the opposite sides until golden, about 2 minutes more. Serve immediately or keep warm in a 200F oven, covered with foil, until ready to serve. Garnish with sour cream and chopped tomato and chives. Serve immediately.

PANINO BRUSCHETTAMakes 9 round rolls Italian sandwich eaters head to paninotecas, paninotecas, the equivalent of our delis. the equivalent of our delis. Panino Panino means sandwich, but it is also the word for the little breads used to make them. There are many types of bread doughs used in making means sandwich, but it is also the word for the little breads used to make them. There are many types of bread doughs used in making panini panini (the plural of (the plural of panino panino), and each region has a specialty. Panini Panini can be round, square, or elongated. In Venice there are can be round, square, or elongated. In Venice there are rosettas, rosettas, which remind me of Kaiser rolls with a top k.n.o.b; in Milan there are which remind me of Kaiser rolls with a top k.n.o.b; in Milan there are michetta, michetta, which have a hole in the middle; and in Piedmont there are b.u.t.terfly-like which have a hole in the middle; and in Piedmont there are b.u.t.terfly-like biovettes biovettes; in Genoa focaccia focaccia flatbread is cut into portions. Panino Bruschetta are good fresh from the oven or split and grilled to make fresh-sliced tomato and arugula sandwiches. They are reminiscent of bruschetta with their topping of garlic and olive oil. flatbread is cut into portions. Panino Bruschetta are good fresh from the oven or split and grilled to make fresh-sliced tomato and arugula sandwiches. They are reminiscent of bruschetta with their topping of garlic and olive oil.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINESFor the dough:1/2 cup water cup water1/2 cup milk cup milk1 large egg1 tablespoon olive oil31/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour1 tablespoon yellow cornmeal or polenta1 tablespoon whole wheat flour11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt1 teaspoon sugar21/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 23/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeastFor the garlic oil:1/4 cup olive oil cup olive oil2 cloves garlic, pressedCoa.r.s.e sea salt or kosher salt, for sprinkling

[image]Place all the dough ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start.

[image]When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, open the lid and poke the dough with your fingers to deflate. Close the lid, unplug the machine, and let the dough stand in the machine for 45 minutes longer.

[image]Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and dust with flour. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. With a rolling pin, roll the dough out into a 10-by-6-inch rectangle that is 1 inch thick. Cut out circles of dough with a 3-inch biscuit cutter or drinking gla.s.s. Reroll sc.r.a.ps and cut out more circles. Place the circles on the baking sheet about 2 inches apart; 3 across and 4 down. Cover loosely with a clean tea towel and let rest for 25 minutes.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lower third rack and preheat the oven to 400F.

[image]To make the garlic oil, combine the olive oil and garlic in a small saucepan or microwave-proof bowl. Heat until just warm.

[image]Brush the tops of the rolls with the garlic oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden brown. Remove the rolls from the baking sheet and cool on racks.

[image]The Toolbox: Equipment for Oven-Baked Country BreadsCountry bread doughs can be fully baked in the bread machine, but they are fantastic doughs for bakers who want to shape their loaves by hand and bake their breads in a conventional oven. For this reason, some of the recipes in this chapter are executed totally in the machine and some require your hands to shape the loaves into the proper traditional shapes they are known for in the baking world. Hand-shaping techniques give each type of loaf its own character, texture, and crumb-to-crust proportion, despite the fact that most of the breads are made from exactly the same simple ingredients: flour, water, salt, and yeast. The following batterie de cuisine batterie de cuisine is an important list for a baker who wishes to master the array of country breads. is an important list for a baker who wishes to master the array of country breads.

Wooden board or marble slab (about 18-by-18-inch) for finis.h.i.+ng, kneading, and shaping Plastic dough card, or dough sc.r.a.per (consider this an extension of your hand), great for sc.r.a.ping wet doughs out of the bread pan and for cleaning the work surface of acc.u.mulated dough Metal bench knife for portioning Parchment paper for lining baking sheets Baking pans: heavy gauge aluminum or steel 18-by-13-inch half-sheet baking pans, ceramic baking sheet, perforated baking sheets Black steel baguette trays, 18 by 2 inches with two attached cradles French batard cradle pan, 151/2-by-8-by-4-inch Breadstick pans Banetton or a medium colander and clean tea towels Timer Kitchen shears and small sharp knife or lame lame for slas.h.i.+ng before baking for slas.h.i.+ng before baking Ceramic baking stone (12- or 16-inch round or 16-by-14-inch rectangle) or 12 to 16 unglazed quarry tiles Heavy-duty oven mitts that are big enough to protect your wrists and lower arm, or barbecue mitts Large metal cooling rack

GRISSINIMakes 24 grissini Grissini is the Italian word for breadsticks. They are shaped by hand and then baked at a high temperature in the oven. They look very different than ma.s.s-market, machine-extruded breadsticks, which all look exactly alike; these are charmingly k.n.o.bby and irregular. Bake until they are crisp. Otherwise, if they are soft like bread, they will bend and break when you stand them in a crock to serve. If you are unsure about making them freeform, you can use a breadstick tray, which is made up of a series of very thin cradles. Serve these breadsticks in an appetizer buffet, plain or with b.u.t.ter, or wrapped with smoked turkey or prosciutto. They are also wonderful with soup. is the Italian word for breadsticks. They are shaped by hand and then baked at a high temperature in the oven. They look very different than ma.s.s-market, machine-extruded breadsticks, which all look exactly alike; these are charmingly k.n.o.bby and irregular. Bake until they are crisp. Otherwise, if they are soft like bread, they will bend and break when you stand them in a crock to serve. If you are unsure about making them freeform, you can use a breadstick tray, which is made up of a series of very thin cradles. Serve these breadsticks in an appetizer buffet, plain or with b.u.t.ter, or wrapped with smoked turkey or prosciutto. They are also wonderful with soup.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES11/2 cups water cups water1/4 cup olive oil cup olive oil1 teaspoon salt11/2 cups semolina flour cups semolina flour21/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 tablespoon SAF yeast or 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon bread machine yeastAbout 1 1/2 cup additional olive oil, for dipping cup additional olive oil, for dippingAbout 11/4 cups semolina flour, for sprinkling and rolling cups semolina flour, for sprinkling and rolling

[image]Place all the dough ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start.

[image]Dust a work surface with semolina flour. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, turn the dough out onto the work surface and pat it into a thick 12-by-6-inch rectangle without kneading or overworking the dough. Leave this to rise on the work surface, especially if it is a marble slab, or transfer it to an 17-by-11-inch baking sheet that has been dusted with semolina flour. Brush the top of the dough with olive oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

[image]Place a baking stone on the center rack and preheat the oven to 425F. Brush 2 heavy 17-by-11-inch baking sheets with olive oil. Place the additional olive oil and semolina flour in two shallow bowls.

[image]Press the dough all over to gently deflate it and place it on a floured work surface. Using a pastry or pizza wheel, cut the dough into four equal pieces lengthwise; the dough will deflate a bit more. Cut each piece into 6 thick strips lengthwise. Pick up each end of each strip and stretch to the desired length or quickly roll out each strip with your palms, stretching from the center out to the ends, to a size that will fit your baking sheet. Dip each strip in the olive oil and then roll it in semolina flour. Place the strips s.p.a.ced evenly apart on the baking sheets. Each sheet will hold 12 grissini grissini. Bake each sheet separately in the center of the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the grissini grissini are lightly browned and crisp. Remove the are lightly browned and crisp. Remove the grissini grissini from the baking sheets to cool completely on racks. from the baking sheets to cool completely on racks.

[image]A Baker's Glossary of Bread StartersCountry breads have a language all their own, which includes terms that can be quite confusing at times, especially those describing the different starters. The following list of definitions, including the meanings of some foreign words, is an invaluable reference while you are deciphering and working on European-style country bread recipes.Biga-A thick, rather firm-textured, Italian bread dough sponge starter made of flour, water, and yeast.Build-Term used to describe the adding of more liquid and flour to a starter to increase its volume before using it in a dough.Chef-This is the foundation step to creating a natural starter; after building and feeding it will develop into a levain levain. Also known as a chef levain chef levain.Levain-Also a starter, levain levain is the French word for leavening. A is the French word for leavening. A levain naturel levain naturel consists only of flour and water and is fermented by wild airborne yeasts. A consists only of flour and water and is fermented by wild airborne yeasts. A levain levure levain levure is fortified with some commercial yeast and ready to use a few hours after the building of a is fortified with some commercial yeast and ready to use a few hours after the building of a chef chef.Mother or madre-An American term used to describe a sourdough starterPate fermentee-This is the "old dough" method of pre-fermentation, in which a piece of dough is taken from a previous batch of dough to be added to a new batch. Pate fermentee Pate fermentee can also be made fresh each time you bake. This starter is as thick as a regular bread dough, made with a ratio of 3 parts flour to 1 part water. can also be made fresh each time you bake. This starter is as thick as a regular bread dough, made with a ratio of 3 parts flour to 1 part water.Poolish-A liquidy French bread dough starter made of flour, water, and yeast. It is named for its Polish origin and composed of half water and half flour.Pre-ferment-A term referring to any type of starter or sponge that is initially fermented before being made into a bread dough.Sourdough-A thin starter created from flour, water, and naturally occurring airborne wild yeasts. Commercial yeasts may also be used.Sponge-A bread starter that is made from an initial mixing of some liquid with some commercial or natural yeasts and flour to form a batterlike mixture that pre-ferments before being added to a dough.Starter-Any natural or commercial yeast-reinforced sourdough, sponge, or piece of old dough that is added to a dough for leavening power, shortening the baking process and enhancing the flavor of the bread.

PAIN DE MAISON SUR POOLISH.

The poolish poolish was a turn-of-the-century breadmaking technique, but of late it has revitalized the artisan bread movement. A starter dough is prepared and left to sit for at least six hours before the dough is mixed. The final mixing and kneading phase is known as the was a turn-of-the-century breadmaking technique, but of late it has revitalized the artisan bread movement. A starter dough is prepared and left to sit for at least six hours before the dough is mixed. The final mixing and kneading phase is known as the petrissage. petrissage. In the bread machine, you get to skip the long hours of hard work needed to make a nice loaf of bread from this cla.s.sic sponge starter recipe. The instructions given here are for baking the bread in the machine, but I also like to hand shape this bread into In the bread machine, you get to skip the long hours of hard work needed to make a nice loaf of bread from this cla.s.sic sponge starter recipe. The instructions given here are for baking the bread in the machine, but I also like to hand shape this bread into boules boules and bake them in the oven. This loaf is dense and slightly sour. and bake them in the oven. This loaf is dense and slightly sour.

11/2-POUND LOAFFor the poolish:1 cup water11/4 cups organic bread flour cups organic bread flour1/4 teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1/3 cup water cup water11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast2 cups organic bread flour1 tablespoon sugar1 tablespoon gluten11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt2-POUND LOAFFor the poolish:11/3 cups water cups water1/23 cups organic bread flour1/3 teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1/2 cup water cup water11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast22/3 cups organic bread flour cups organic bread flour11/2 tablespoons sugar tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon gluten2 teaspoons salt

[image]To make the poolish poolish starter, place the water, flour, and yeast in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the machine for about 6 hours. starter, place the water, flour, and yeast in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the machine for about 6 hours.

[image]To make the dough, combine the water and the yeast, stirring to dissolve. Pour into the bread pan with the poolish poolish and add the flour, sugar, gluten, and salt. Set crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. (This recipe is not suitable for use with the Delay Timer.) The dough ball will be slightly wet and slack, but smooth and elastic. and add the flour, sugar, gluten, and salt. Set crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. (This recipe is not suitable for use with the Delay Timer.) The dough ball will be slightly wet and slack, but smooth and elastic.

[image]When the baking cycle ends, check the bread. If the crust is still pale and loaf is not done, reset for Bake Only for 12 minutes longer. When the bread is done, immediately remove it from the pan and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing.

PAIN DE PARIS.

Baguette dough used to be called pain de Paris, pain de Paris, or Parisian bread. The French Bread cycle will give this dough three full rises with rests in between called or Parisian bread. The French Bread cycle will give this dough three full rises with rests in between called autolyses, autolyses, which are terribly important for developing the gluten structure, and therefore a good, chewy texture and strong flavor. While this dough is best when formed into the familiar long rod (program for the Dough cycle in Step 3 and see which are terribly important for developing the gluten structure, and therefore a good, chewy texture and strong flavor. While this dough is best when formed into the familiar long rod (program for the Dough cycle in Step 3 and see Technique: Shaping Long Loaves of Pain de Paris for Oven Baking Technique: Shaping Long Loaves of Pain de Paris for Oven Baking), it can also be fully baked in the machine as instructed here. It has a traditional French starter known as a pate fermentee, pate fermentee, or "old dough," a pre-ferment that is as thick and silky as a bread dough. This is a delicious bread, which I am very proud to share with you. or "old dough," a pre-ferment that is as thick and silky as a bread dough. This is a delicious bread, which I am very proud to share with you.

11/2-POUND LOAFFor the pate fermentee:1/2 cup water cup water11/4 cups bread flour cups bread flourPinch of sea salt1/2 teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeastFor the dough:1 cup minus 1 tablespoon water2 cups bread flour11/2 teaspoons gluten with vitamin C teaspoons gluten with vitamin C3/4 teaspoon SAF yeast or 1 teaspoon SAF yeast or 11/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast1/2 cup pate fermentee cup pate fermentee1 teaspoon sea salt2-POUND LOAFFor the pate fermentee:1/2 cup water cup water11/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/4 teaspoon sea salt teaspoon sea salt1/2 teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeastFor the dough:11/3 cups water cups water3 cups bread flour21/2 teaspoons gluten with vitamin C teaspoons gluten with vitamin C11/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 1 teaspoons SAF yeast or 13/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast3/4 cup pate fermentee cup pate fermentee11/2 teaspoons sea salt teaspoons sea salt

[image]To make the pate fermentee pate fermentee starter, place the starter ingredients /in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. Set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Pause and set the timer again for 10 minutes. Let the starter rest for 10 minutes (the starter, place the starter ingredients /in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. Set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Pause and set the timer again for 10 minutes. Let the starter rest for 10 minutes (the autolyse autolyse). When the timer rings, press Start to continue and finish the Dough cycle. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the spongy starter, and let it sit in the bread machine for 3 to 12 hours, deflating it about every 4 hours. (If you are making the starter ahead of time, remove it from the machine at this point and refrigerate it for up to 48 hours. Bring to room temperature before making the dough.) You will have about 11/2 cups starter. cups starter.

[image]Rinse out a plastic dry measure with cold water. With the measuring cup still wet, measure out 1 1/2 cup (for the 1 cup (for the 11/2-pound loaf) or 3 3/4 cup (for the 2-pound loaf) of starter and set it aside for the dough (it will slide right out of the measuring cup). If you have not already stored the cup (for the 2-pound loaf) of starter and set it aside for the dough (it will slide right out of the measuring cup). If you have not already stored the pate fermentee pate fermentee earlier, you can store the rest of the starter (enough for 2 to 3 batches of Pain de Paris) in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours (see earlier, you can store the rest of the starter (enough for 2 to 3 batches of Pain de Paris) in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours (see Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Storing Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Storing Pate Fermentee Pate Fermentee for more information). Or discard it and make a new batch the next time you make this bread. for more information). Or discard it and make a new batch the next time you make this bread.

[image]To make the dough, place the water, flour, gluten and yeast in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. (You don't have to wash out the bread pan from the starter.) Set crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. After Knead 1, press Pause. Add the reserved pate fermentee pate fermentee and the salt. Press Start to continue. The dough will be moist and smooth. and the salt. Press Start to continue. The dough will be moist and smooth.

[image]When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing.

[image]Technique: Shaping Long Loaves of Pain de Paris for Oven BakingMakes 2 baguettes

1 recipe Pain de Paris Pain de Paris dough dough1 egg white beaten with 1 tablespoon of water, for glaze[image] Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or grease two thin 2-inch-wide baguette pans. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or grease two thin 2-inch-wide baguette pans. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions.[image] Flatten each portion into a thin 10-by-inch rectangle with the palm of your 6-inch rectangle with the palm of your hand. Starting on a long side, roll up, using your thumbs to help roll tightly. With the side of your hand, define a depression lengthwise down the center of the dough. Fold over and pinch seams to seal. Gently transfer, seam side down, to the prepared pan. No dough will hang over the ends of the pan. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until fully doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes. Flatten each portion into a thin 10-by-inch rectangle with the palm of your 6-inch rectangle with the palm of your hand. Starting on a long side, roll up, using your thumbs to help roll tightly. With the side of your hand, define a depression lengthwise down the center of the dough. Fold over and pinch seams to seal. Gently transfer, seam side down, to the prepared pan. No dough will hang over the ends of the pan. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until fully doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes.[image] Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone or tiles on the center rack of the oven and preheat to 425F. Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone or tiles on the center rack of the oven and preheat to 425F.[image] Beat the egg white and water with a fork until foamy. Brush the surface of the loaves with the glaze. With a small, sharp knife, slash the surface 3 or 4 times on the diagonal, no more than 14 inch deep. Place the pans directly on the stone and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the loaves are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. Remove the loaves from the pans immediately to cool on a rack. Beat the egg white and water with a fork until foamy. Brush the surface of the loaves with the glaze. With a small, sharp knife, slash the surface 3 or 4 times on the diagonal, no more than 14 inch deep. Place the pans directly on the stone and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the loaves are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. Remove the loaves from the pans immediately to cool on a rack.

PAIN a L'ANCIENNE Makes 1 round loaf Pain a l'ancienne is daily bread for much of rural France. A country relative of the is daily bread for much of rural France. A country relative of the pain de Paris pain de Paris and the baguette, and the baguette, pain a l'ancienne pain a l'ancienne is a more rustic bread because it is made with a bit of whole wheat flour. You will get the best results from a stone-ground, coa.r.s.e grind of whole wheat flour; you want lots of flecks throughout the loaf. When I stayed outside of Cahors, near Villefranche de Rouergue, I visited a baker who worked alone in what looked like an abandoned stone cottage. He baked loaves like this one, and we leaned over a crooked stone fence and called out to him to buy his bread. He left his oven inside the cottage, walked into the yard, and handed us the large round bread over the fence. The crust was incredibly dark, almost brown-black, a darker crust than I was used to. This loaf needs to be baked in the oven-if you have a La Cloche (see is a more rustic bread because it is made with a bit of whole wheat flour. You will get the best results from a stone-ground, coa.r.s.e grind of whole wheat flour; you want lots of flecks throughout the loaf. When I stayed outside of Cahors, near Villefranche de Rouergue, I visited a baker who worked alone in what looked like an abandoned stone cottage. He baked loaves like this one, and we leaned over a crooked stone fence and called out to him to buy his bread. He left his oven inside the cottage, walked into the yard, and handed us the large round bread over the fence. The crust was incredibly dark, almost brown-black, a darker crust than I was used to. This loaf needs to be baked in the oven-if you have a La Cloche (see Technique: Baking with a La Cloche Ceramic Baking Dish Technique: Baking with a La Cloche Ceramic Baking Dish), use it, but the bread bakes nicely on baking sheets, too.

11/2-POUND LOAFFor the pate fermentee:1/2 cup water cup waterPinch of sea salt11/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/2 teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeastFor the dough:11/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon water cup plus 1 tablespoon water21/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/3 cup whole wheat flour cup whole wheat flour2 teaspoons gluten with vitamin C2 teaspoons light brown sugar or malt powder11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast3/4 cup pate fermentee cup pate fermentee11/2 teaspoons sea salt teaspoons sea saltYellow cornmeal, for sprinkling2-POUND LOAFFor the pate fermentee:1/2 cup water Pinch of sea salt cup water Pinch of sea salt11/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/2 teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeastFor the dough:12/3 cups water cups water31/3 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/2 cup whole wheat flour cup whole wheat flour1 tablespoon gluten with vitamin C1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon light brown sugar or malt powder2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast1 cup pate fermentee pate fermentee2 teaspoons sea saltYellow cornmeal, for sprinkling

[image]To make the pate fermentee pate fermentee starter, place the starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. Set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Pause and set the timer again for 10 minutes. Let the starter rest for 10 minutes (the starter, place the starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. Set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Pause and set the timer again for 10 minutes. Let the starter rest for 10 minutes (the autolyse autolyse). When the timer rings, press Start to continue and finish the Dough cycle. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the spongy starter, and let it sit in the bread machine for 3 to 12 hours, deflating it about every 4 hours. (If you are making the starter ahead of time, remove it from the machine at this point and refrigerate it for up to 48 hours. Bring to room temperature before making the dough.) You will have about 11/2 cups starter. cups starter.

[image]Rinse out a plastic dry measure with cold water. With the measuring cup still wet, measure out 3 3/4 cup (for the 1 cup (for the 11/2-pound loaf) or 1 cup (for the 2-pound loaf) of starter and set is aside for the dough (it will slide right out of the measuring cup). If you have not already stored the pate fermentee pate fermentee earlier, you can store the rest of the starter in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours (see earlier, you can store the rest of the starter in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours (see Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Storing Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Storing Pate Fermentee Pate Fermentee for more information). Or discard it and make a new batch the next time you make this bread. for more information). Or discard it and make a new batch the next time you make this bread.

[image]To make the dough, place the water, flours, gluten, brown sugar, and yeast in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. (You don't have to wash out the bread pan from the starter.) Set crust on medium and program for the Dough cycle; press Start.

After Knead 1, press Pause. Cut the reserved pate fermen-tee pate fermen-tee into pieces, and add it to the machine with the salt. into pieces, and add it to the machine with the salt.

Press Start to continue. The dough will start out lumpy, but will become a moist and smooth firm dough ball as the kneading continues and the starter is incorporated.

[image]When the machine beeps at the end of the Dough cycle press Stop and unplug the machine. Set a kitchen timer for another hour and leave the dough in the machine to continue to rise in the warm atmosphere.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with the cornmeal. When the timer rings, using a plastic dough card, turn the dough out onto the work surface, it will naturally deflate. Using as little flour as possible, knead lightly into a round shape with both hands; pull the sides of the dough underneath to make it tighter. Pinch the bottom seam to close the dough. The surface will be smooth and even, with no tears. Dust lightly all over with flour and place, smooth side up, on the baking sheet to leave room for expansion. If you want to use an 8-inch woven reed rising basket or a colander lined with a clean tea towel, dust it with flour and place the dough ball in it, smooth side down. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a ceramic baking stone or tiles on the lower third oven rack and preheat to 450F.

[image]If using the rising basket, run your hand around the sides to loosen the dough and gently turn out onto the baking sheet. If you have risen the loaf already on the baking sheet, you will skip this step.

[image]Dust the top with flour. Using a sharp knife, slash the top with a triangle, no more than 14 inch deep. Place the baking sheet directly on the baking stone. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375F and continue to bake until golden brown and crusty, 25 to 30 minutes longer. The loaf will be dark brown, crusty, and sound hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Remove from the pan and let cool on a rack for at least 1 hour. This bread is best served completely cooled the day it is baked.

[image]Technique: Shaping Country BreadsShaping bread dough, called rounding by professional bakers, requires your full attention so that the finished loaf will be the right texture and consistency. This is an area of baking that expands along with your knowledge and technique. You can shape any of the recipes in this chapter into the following cla.s.sic rustic shapes. Remember, since they are not baked in pans, they will have an asymmetrical beauty of their own forged in the heat of the oven.Unless directed, use as little flour as possible on your work surface while shaping. Have some extra flour on hand for dusting the tops of the loaves. Pro fessionalsuse "gray" or clear flour for dusting country breads. Take a section of dough and press it with your palms onto the work surface to remove the acc.u.mulated carbon dioxide. It will remain in a rounded form. Take one side of the dough and fold it toward the center and press. Fold in the other side and press in the center. By folding you will have a side with a seam and a smooth side that has some surface tension, which will eventually be the top of the loaf. Shape as directed and note that the loaves should always be evenly shaped and not torn anywhere on the surface. Bake in a preheated hot oven, 425F, with a ceramic baking stone or tiles, if you have them.Any of the shapes can be made from 11/2 or 2 pounds dough. or 2 pounds dough.The glaze referred to in these shaping instructions is the cla.s.sic lean bread glaze, 1 egg white with 1 table spoon water beaten until foamy and brushed onto the dough with a pastry brush.

BatardMakes 1 large loaf

[image]In the same family as the baguette and ficelle ficelle, batard batard translates to "b.a.s.t.a.r.d," as it is a cross between a round loaf and a baguette. It is a large oblong torpedo-shaped loaf that looks like a shorter, fat baguette. You will need a whole recipe of dough to form one loaf. Pat the dough into a rectangle, tightly roll up and fold into thirds the long way, as for a baguette, then shape into a 12-inch elongated oval (the ends can be blunt or tapered) with a thick middle section. Gently transfer, seam side down, to a greased and dusted 15 translates to "b.a.s.t.a.r.d," as it is a cross between a round loaf and a baguette. It is a large oblong torpedo-shaped loaf that looks like a shorter, fat baguette. You will need a whole recipe of dough to form one loaf. Pat the dough into a rectangle, tightly roll up and fold into thirds the long way, as for a baguette, then shape into a 12-inch elongated oval (the ends can be blunt or tapered) with a thick middle section. Gently transfer, seam side down, to a greased and dusted 151/2-by-8-by-4-inch French batard cradle pan or a greased and dusted 17-by-12-inch baking sheet. Slash the top 3 times on the diagonal with a sharp knife no deeper than 14 inch, or make one long slash down the middle of each loaf. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Glaze, and bake in a hot oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the surface of the loaf is golden brown in color and sounds hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaf from the pan to a cooling rack.FicelleMakes 3 or 4 thin loaves

[image]This loaf is long, like a baguette, but only about 2 inches in diameter after baking. Divide the dough into 4 even portions. Flatten each into a thin 14-by-6-inch rectangle with your palm. Tightly roll up and fold into thirds the long way, as for a baguette. Gently transfer, seam side down, to baguette pans or baking sheets that have been greased and sprinkled with cornmeal. Rise, glaze, and slash as for the batard. Bake in a hot oven for 18 to 22 minutes, or until the surfaces of the loaves are golden brown in color and the loaves sound hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaves from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack.Pain de CampagneMakes 1 large loaf

[image]This is an oversized round country loaf shaped from one large ma.s.s of dough. In France the diameter could be as great as 12 to 14 inches. The doughs from these recipes will make a slightly smaller loaf. One and a half pounds of dough will produce about an 8- to 10-inch round. Roughly pat all of the dough into a thick, uneven circle. Pull up the sides and knead into the center of the loaf to create a tight round ball. Place seam side down on a baking sheet that is lined with parchment paper or greased and sprinkled with oatmeal. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Glaze or dust with flour, and, using a sharp knife, slash the top in a netlike tic-tac-toe or triangle pattern, no deeper than 14 inch. Bake in a hot oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the surface of the loaf is golden brown in color and sounds hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaf from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack.BouleMakes 2 medium loaves

[image]This is a small round country loaf, about 6 inches in diameter, a favorite shape. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions. Form each into a tight round as for pain de campagne pain de campagne. Place seam side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or greased and sprinkled with cornmeal. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Glaze or dust with flour, and, using a sharp knife or kitchen shears, slash an X or a square on top, no deeper than 14 inch. Bake in a hot oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the surfaces of the loaves are golden brown in color and sound hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaves from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack. Boules Boules can also be shaped with a three-stand braid (known as can also be shaped with a three-stand braid (known as la boule tressee la boule tressee) or two twisted or spiraled strands that form a rope (known as a pain cordon pain cordon or or pain spiral pain spiral), fas.h.i.+oned from extra dough, laid across the tops and gently attached with an egg glaze after the final rise. These decorated loaves need no slas.h.i.+ng.La CouronneMakes 1 large loaf

The crown, which is a circle with a hole in the center, is one of the oldest shapes for bread. It could be carried on the arm into the fields or stored on a wooden pole. There are special molds for making crowns, or they can be shaped by hand. They are pretty on a buffet table with the center filled with grapes or a cheese ball. Roughly pat all of the dough into a thick, uneven circle. Pull up the sides and knead into the center of the loaf to create a loose round. Using the tips of all five of your fingers, held tightly together, use both hands to pierce the center of the round of dough. Pull the inside open and gradually work around the inside of the hole, expanding it to about 3 inches in diameter. Place the ring on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or greased and sprinkled with flour. Place a small greased custard cup in the center to define the hole. Let rise until doubled in bulk. Glaze or dust with flour. Bake in a hot oven for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the surface of the loaf is golden brown in color and it sounds hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaf from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack.ChampignonMakes 6 small loaves

These hearth loaves are shaped like rustic little mushrooms. This shape has been made for centuries and was a favorite for harvest celebrations. The shape is traditional for pet.i.t brioche pet.i.t brioche, but here they are freestanding. Divide dough into 6 even portions (you can also shape it into one large loaf). Further divide each piece into 2 uneven portions. Form the larger piece into a tight round. Form the smaller piece into a round, roll it out into a disc the same diameter as the larger dough ball, and place atop the larger ball. With a floured finger, poke a hole in center of the stacked rounds to adhere them to each other. Place, top up, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or greased and sprinkled with flour. Rise only 15 to 20 minutes, as the mushroom shape becomes less defined the longer it rises. Gently redefine the hole to keep the top intact, although it may tip to one side or the other after baking. Dust with flour and bake in a hot oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the surfaces of the loaves are golden brown in color and sound hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaves from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack.Pain episMakes 2 long loaves

[image]This loaf is cut with a kitchen shears to resemble a shaft of wheat. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the dough into 2 equal portions and form each into a 18-inch-long rectangle, then tightly roll up and fold into thirds the long way, forming a tight log, as for a baguette. Gently transfer, seam side down, to the prepared baking sheets. Holding kitchen shears at a 45 degree angle to the loaf, and using quick motions (to prevent sticking and give a more earthy appearance), make cuts in the dough, halfway across. Cut at 3-inch intervals down the length of the dough, and with your other hand, turn each piece over, stretching every other one over the top of the dough to the other side so that the pieces alternate sides, resembling a head of wheat. You will have 6 to 8 cuts, depending on the size of the loaf. Let rise at room temperature for only 25 minutes. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the surfaces of the loaves are golden brown in color and sound hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaves from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack. Take care with the l'epis l'epis after baking; its sections can break apart easily. after baking; its sections can break apart easily.

PAIN AU SEIGLEMakes 2 round loaves French rye bread, like all other French breads, has a specific definition. By law it must contain at least 65 percent rye flour. Some of the loaves are over a foot in diameter. This loaf, pain au seigle, pain au seigle, literally country bread with rye, contains only a portion of rye flour. Note that this rye has no caraway seeds, which are so often paired with rye that some people mistake the flavor of caraway for the flavor of rye. This is a bread that was first popular in the mountainous regions of France, the Pyrenees and Brittany. It has a starter, since rye breads rise better with some type of acid ingredient (that is why beer and vinegar are regularly added to Scandinavian ryes). Serve this bread with b.u.t.ter and marmalade; with cheese, cold cuts, charcuterie, pate; toasted topped with melted cheese and floating in onion soup; or as the French do, with oysters. I prefer a simple treatment-toasted with honey and b.u.t.ter. literally country bread with rye, contains only a portion of rye flour. Note that this rye has no caraway seeds, which are so often paired with rye that some people mistake the flavor of caraway for the flavor of rye. This is a bread that was first popular in the mountainous regions of France, the Pyrenees and Brittany. It has a starter, since rye breads rise better with some type of acid ingredient (that is why beer and vinegar are regularly added to Scandinavian ryes). Serve this bread with b.u.t.ter and marmalade; with cheese, cold cuts, charcuterie, pate; toasted topped with melted cheese and floating in onion soup; or as the French do, with oysters. I prefer a simple treatment-toasted with honey and b.u.t.ter.

11/2-POUND LOAFFor the pate fermentee pate fermentee rye starter: rye starter:1/2 cup water cup water1 cup bread flour1/4 cup medium rye flour Pinch of sea salt cup medium rye flour Pinch of sea salt1/2 teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeastFor the dough:11/4 cups water cups water2 cups bread flour1 cup medium rye flour2 teaspoons dark brown sugar or malt powder11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast1/2 cup rye cup rye pate fermentee pate fermentee 1 11/2 teaspoons sea salt teaspoons sea salt2-POUND LOAFFor the pate fermentee pate fermentee rye starter: rye starter:1/2 cup water cup water1 cup bread flour1/4 cup medium rye flour Pinch of sea salt cup medium rye flour Pinch of sea salt1/2 teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeastFor the dough:11/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon water cups plus 1 tablespoon water23/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour11/4 cups medium rye flour cups medium rye flour3 teaspoons dark brown sugar or malt powder2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast3/4 cup rye cup rye pate fermentee pate fermentee2 teaspoons sea salt

[image]To make the pate fermentee pate fermentee starter, place the starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. Set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Pause and set the timer again for 10 minutes. Let the starter rest for 10 minutes (the starter, place the starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. Set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Pause and set the timer again for 10 minutes. Let the starter rest for 10 minutes (the autolyse autolyse). When the timer rings, press Start to continue and finish the Dough cycle. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the spongy starter, and let it sit in the bread machine for 3 to 12 hours, deflating it about every 4 hours. (If you are making the starter ahead of time, remove it from the machine at this point and refrigerate it for up to 48 hours. Bring to room temperature before making the dough.) You will have about 11/2 cups starter. cups starter.

[image]Rinse out a plastic dry measure with cold water. With the measuring cup still wet, measure out 1 1/2 cup (for the 1 cup (for the 11/2-pound loaf) or 3 3/4 cup (for the 2-pound loaf) of starter and set it aside for the dough (it will slide right out of the measuring cup). If you have not already stored the cup (for the 2-pound loaf) of starter and set it aside for the dough (it will slide right out of the measuring cup). If you have not already stored the pate fermentee pate fermentee earlier, you can store the rest of the starter in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours (see earlier, you can store the rest of the starter in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours (see A Baker's Glossary of Bread Starters A Baker's Glossary of Bread Starters for more information). Or discard it and make a new batch the next time you make this bread. for more information). Or discard it and make a new batch the next time you make this bread.

[image]To make the dough, place the water, flours, brown sugar, and yeast in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. (You don't have to wash out the bread pan from the starter.) Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. After Knead 1, press Pause. Cut the reserved starter into pieces, then add the starter pieces and the salt to the bread pan. Press Start to continue. The dough ball will be moist and have a sticky feel. Do not add any more flour.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead the dough a few times by hand, adding another tablespoon or two of flour just to have the dough hold its shape; it will still be soft. Divide the dough into 2 portions. Shape each portion into a tight round. Place on the baking sheet, seam side down. (Or shape to fit round cloth-lined small baskets or colanders lightly dusted with flour.) Cover the dough loosely with a clean tea towel and let rise for about 1 hour.

[image]Bread Machine Baker's Hint: Storing Pate Fermentee Pate FermenteePate fermentee literally means "old dough" in French. It was traditionally a small piece of dough the baker saved each time he made a batch of bread to serve as the leavening for his next batch. literally means "old dough" in French. It was traditionally a small piece of dough the baker saved each time he made a batch of bread to serve as the leavening for his next batch.In recipes that call for pate fermentee pate fermentee, I include instructions for making the starter new each time. You need to prepare it a day before mixing the dough, though, so plan accordingly. You can also use leftover pate fermentee pate fermentee from a previous batch, or you can make a batch of the starter ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator or freezer until you are ready to bake your bread. from a previous batch, or you can make a batch of the starter ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator or freezer until you are ready to bake your bread.Make the pate fermentee pate fermentee according to the directions in the recipe. You will have about 1 according to the directions in the recipe. You will have about 11/2 cups starter. Remove what you are going to use immediately, or store the whole batch. Transfer the starter to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 48 hours. Be sure there is some extra room in the container you choose; the cups starter. Remove what you are going to use immediately, or store the whole batch. Transfer the starter to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 48 hours. Be sure there is some extra room in the container you choose; the pate fermentee pate fermentee will grow in size as it sits in the refrigerator. The cover for the container should not be quite airtight, allowing the starter to breathe a little. You can also freeze the starter, but if you do, it will be easier if you portion it out first. Measure out portions for the 1 will grow in size as it sits in the refrigerator. The cover for the container should not be quite airtight, allowing the starter to breathe a little. You can also freeze the starter, but if you do, it will be easier if you portion it out first. Measure out portions for the 11/2-pound or 2-pound loaves and freeze them in individual freezer-strength self-sealing plastic bags for up to 1 month. (A helpful hint for measuring-if you rinse a plastic measuring cup with water, then dip it, still wet, into the dough, the dough will easily slide out of the cup and into the bag.)To use starter that has been stored in the refrigerator, allow it to come to room temperature before adding it to the machine along with the rest of the dough ingredients. If frozen, let the starter defrost in the refrigerator overnight and then come to room temperature before using.The pate fermentees pate fermentees used in used in Pain de Paris Pain de Paris and and Pain a l'Ancienne Pain a l'Ancienne are interchangeable. The rye are interchangeable. The rye pate fermentee pate fermentee is not interchangeable with other recipes, but may be stored this same way. is not interchangeable with other recipes, but may be stored this same way.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired, and preheat to 425F.

[image]Dust the tops of the loaves with flour and rub in; this will give the bread a rustic look after baking. Slash each loaf decoratively with an X using a sharp knife.