The Ultimate Rice Cooker Cookbook Part 1

The ultimate rice cooker cookbook.

250 no-fail recipes for pilafs, risotto, polenta, chilis, soups, porridges, puddings, and more from start to finish in your rice cooker.

by Beth Hensperger and Julie Kaufmann.

acknowledgments.

The rice angel is a guardian for people who appreciate rice. We met a lot of angels disguised as humans who not only appreciate, but unabashedly love rice and their rice cookers, while working on this book.

Thank-you's to the following for contributing their time and expertise to this work: food writer Lynn Alley; "Aunt Joan" Billheimer; Naoko Boerger; Matthew Bun son; Paul Mizukia, Mich.e.l.le Camerlengo, and Jim Rogers of Panasonic/Matsus.h.i.+ta Consumer Elec tronics Company; California Cooperative Rice Research Foundation, Inc., Biggs, California; Paul Cha; barley lover Jean Clem of Western Trails Food Products; Jesse Cool; restaurateurs and culinary intelligentsia Elaine Corn and David SooHoo of Bamboo Restaurant, Sacramento, California; Joyce Gemperlein; Joyce Goldstein, for her generous information on Italian rices; Barbara Grunes; Glenda Hildon of Rice Specialty, Inc.; Judith Dunbar Hines; Hitachi America Limited; Ming-man Hsieh; Atsuko Is.h.i.+; Sharon Jones, for the big burlap bag of Daawat basmati; Asian food specialist and San Francisco Chronicle San Francisco Chronicle columnist Joyce Jue; Carolyn Jung; Caryl Levine and Ken Lee of Lotus Foods; Grace Liu; Deborah Locke of RiceTec, Inc.; Amanda Lorenzo of Aroma; Jacquie McMahan, the matriarch of California rancho and Mexican cooking; plant breeder John Neal of Lundberg Family Farms; Tamera Moore, for critiquing all the rices; Marianne New of Zojirus.h.i.+ America Corporation; Sharon Noguchi; Mexican culinary tour guide Marge Poore; Toni Ramsaur of Gibbs Wild Rice; food writer Rick Rogers; Kimberly Park of the USA Rice Federation, Houston, Texas; Diana of Sanyo Electronics Company; creative consultant Julia Scannel; Hiroko s.h.i.+mbo; U.S. Department of Agri culture Agricultural Research Center, Beaumont, Texas; Mary Weide, for sharing all that Thai jasmine; Andrew Whitfield, who taught Beth how to cook short-grain brown rice; Williams-Sonoma; Feng-Chih "Lucy" Wuchen; Martin and Susan Yan. And to all of the members, past and present, of the English Conversa tion Club at Escondido Elementary School for so generously opening their kitchens and their hearts. columnist Joyce Jue; Carolyn Jung; Caryl Levine and Ken Lee of Lotus Foods; Grace Liu; Deborah Locke of RiceTec, Inc.; Amanda Lorenzo of Aroma; Jacquie McMahan, the matriarch of California rancho and Mexican cooking; plant breeder John Neal of Lundberg Family Farms; Tamera Moore, for critiquing all the rices; Marianne New of Zojirus.h.i.+ America Corporation; Sharon Noguchi; Mexican culinary tour guide Marge Poore; Toni Ramsaur of Gibbs Wild Rice; food writer Rick Rogers; Kimberly Park of the USA Rice Federation, Houston, Texas; Diana of Sanyo Electronics Company; creative consultant Julia Scannel; Hiroko s.h.i.+mbo; U.S. Department of Agri culture Agricultural Research Center, Beaumont, Texas; Mary Weide, for sharing all that Thai jasmine; Andrew Whitfield, who taught Beth how to cook short-grain brown rice; Williams-Sonoma; Feng-Chih "Lucy" Wuchen; Martin and Susan Yan. And to all of the members, past and present, of the English Conversa tion Club at Escondido Elementary School for so generously opening their kitchens and their hearts.

Our thanks also go to Pam Hoenig and Julie Stillman for their marvelous editing; Valerie Cimino, managing editor; the sales, marketing, production, and publicity managers and a.s.sistants at Harvard Common Press; and Martha Ca.s.selman, our stalwart and dedicated literary agent, who loves leftover rice in her soup.

it all started with a grain of rice

Hajime choro choro Naka pa ppa Akago naite mo Futa toru na.

At first it bubbles And then it hisses Even if the baby is crying Don't remove the lid.

j.a.panese nursery rhyme on how to cook rice translated by Elizabeth Andoh Once upon a time, rice was just rice-in our lives anyway. You planned a meal and rice seemed to be the right starch to serve with it. You placed the saucepan on the stove, measured some water into it, pulled down the bag of rice, measured it into the cup, and poured it into the boiling water. As the water came back to a boil, on went the cover and, when the timer beeped, you ate the rice.

That was before we met the rice cooker. Since then, the world of rice-the amazing array of rice available on every supermarket and specialty grocery shelf, where it grows, its lore and history, sharing recipes, the writing of this book-has become an everyday part of our lives.

To an American cook, the electric rice cooker has been, up to now, a take-it-or-leave- it kitchen appliance. I mean, what's a stove for? But to many Asian-American cooks and cooks throughout Asia, the rice cooker is an absolutely essential appliance for everyday meal preparation. It is the method of choice for cooking rice in j.a.panese and Chinese restaurants (most of the rice cooker manufacturers have a commercial division). Since in many of these diets rice is eaten three times a day, the rice cooker is always on in every home. There are even small ones with a handle to carry while traveling on vacations and business trips. Well, why eat less-than-perfect rice when you don't have to?

Rice cookers appeal to a busy cook for a number of reasons, the first being you may have heard one of your friends tell you how great it is. It is an appliance well suited to a limited cooking s.p.a.ce (it is the cooking tool of choice in college dorms and is great up at the ski cabin) and boasts easy cleanup. It is a closed-environment, slow-cook method that has ended up a cross between a countertop slow cooker, an oven clay pot, and a stove top saucepan. Since it is a one-b.u.t.ton technology, there is virtually no maintenance.

There is not much written about rice cookers in general. "I will be interested in seeing what you can do with the rice cooker," Janice Cole, professional cook and editor of Cooking Pleasures Cooking Pleasures magazine, told us. "I have never made anything but plain rice in mine." This is the sentiment shared by the majority of cooks we talked to. Beyond the slim pamphlet enclosed with the unit, not much information on how to use it exists in print. "In Asia, a rice cooker is part of a normal household," Julie explained during one of our early discussions about the appliance. "It is like an iron or a toaster here. Why write a book about how to use an iron or toaster? Everybody just knows." magazine, told us. "I have never made anything but plain rice in mine." This is the sentiment shared by the majority of cooks we talked to. Beyond the slim pamphlet enclosed with the unit, not much information on how to use it exists in print. "In Asia, a rice cooker is part of a normal household," Julie explained during one of our early discussions about the appliance. "It is like an iron or a toaster here. Why write a book about how to use an iron or toaster? Everybody just knows."

So, here is a book that fills that gap. How to use your rice cooker to make foolproof everyday basic rice, recipes for the new rices on the market, and beautiful pilafs make up the core of the book. But there is a host of other possibilities, from risottos and hot breakfast cereals to incredible desserts, made start to finish in your rice cooker. Dim sum and sus.h.i.+ rice, often intimidating, are within the grasp of even the novice cook. But if all you want is to make some good plain rice, this book is also for you. All instructions are presented as simply, but also as comprehensively, as possible, to be of practical use in every type and size of machine.

In every section there are plenty of step-by-step instructions, hints about the machine itself, and delicious recipes, from plain everyday "I don't have time to think about it" to boldly seasoned. Your rice cooker is a versatile, convenient kitchen appliance that embraces a style of cooking that emphasizes health and natural ingredients. The basic principles of the venerable cooking centers of the world are represented-France, Mexico, and Italy, as well as India, j.a.pan, and China. Rices from around the world, every one available on the market today, are covered in depth-where they come from, how to cook them, and ways to incorporate them into your meals.

Whether you are buying a new rice cooker or are an accomplished cook with an old model, may these recipes bring you as much gustatory pleasure as they have to us.

SCIENCE , MYTHOLOGY , AND THE ORIGINS OF RICEThe role that rice plays as an essential food in the Eastern Hemisphere, along with being one of the first gathered wild grains in the prehistoric Neolithic era, a.s.sociates the grain with both powerful spiritual symbolism and physical nourishment. It has been postulated that the very act of planting the first seeds was a magico-religious act to appease the local reigning G.o.ds, although scientifically speaking, far less is known about the beginnings of rice than any other cereal grains. There is a romantic saying that rice was the first food plant cultivated after the loss of Paradise when heaven and earth became separate worlds. One scientific source has rice growing wild on the ancient supercontinent of Gondwa.n.a.land, which split into Africa, Australia, Southeast Asia, South America, and Antarctica. The first cultivation of rice is proven by archaeological remains in Southeast Asia between India and China, and in India. The wors.h.i.+p of food plants is known to have been an integral part of religions, coming down through the millennia to become an aspect of modern world formal religions, as well as folklore. Rice is intertwined with the powerful presence of s.h.i.+va, the ancient Indian G.o.d who is the father of the Hindu panopoly of deities. Failing to create the perfect food to tempt the Shakti (enlivening female force or consort) of his affections, she died a virgin and from the bowers of her tomb sprang the perfect food, rice. Whether the Indonesian Samyan Sri, Thai rice G.o.ddess Maeae Posop, Indonesian Dewie Sri, or Chinese-Taoist Tou Mu (the Mother of the Rice Measure, keeping the divine records of life and death), all rice G.o.ddesses are virgin deities, their gift to mankind, a.s.sociating the grain with fertility, abundance, and purity. The mysteries a.s.sociated with cultivating rice have existed for so many centuries (archaeological discoveries in the Indus River valley have unearthed rice dating back to 4530 B.C.) that these mythological stories have become interrelated with the actual grain right up into our present time. The wors.h.i.+p of food plants is known to have been an integral part of religions, coming down through the millennia to become an aspect of modern world formal religions, as well as folklore. Rice is intertwined with the powerful presence of s.h.i.+va, the ancient Indian G.o.d who is the father of the Hindu panopoly of deities. Failing to create the perfect food to tempt the Shakti (enlivening female force or consort) of his affections, she died a virgin and from the bowers of her tomb sprang the perfect food, rice. Whether the Indonesian Samyan Sri, Thai rice G.o.ddess Maeae Posop, Indonesian Dewie Sri, or Chinese-Taoist Tou Mu (the Mother of the Rice Measure, keeping the divine records of life and death), all rice G.o.ddesses are virgin deities, their gift to mankind, a.s.sociating the grain with fertility, abundance, and purity. The mysteries a.s.sociated with cultivating rice have existed for so many centuries (archaeological discoveries in the Indus River valley have unearthed rice dating back to 4530 B.C.) that these mythological stories have become interrelated with the actual grain right up into our present time.The Indian cultures of antiquity were all built around rice-growing areas, and rice, the ideal plant for the humid tropics, is still the most extensively cultivated of any food grain. Rice is mentioned in ancient Chinese scrolls (there are recipes and references to fan fan from the eighth century B.C.), and is known as "the good grain of life." It is the staple food of over half the world's population from India throughout Indonesia and the Philippines to China, Korea, and j.a.pan, and all the islands from Taiwan to Madagascar. It can be planted in aquatic paddies, our most familiar vision of rice, but also as an upland crop called hill paddy rice, in tropical areas with lots of rainfall. from the eighth century B.C.), and is known as "the good grain of life." It is the staple food of over half the world's population from India throughout Indonesia and the Philippines to China, Korea, and j.a.pan, and all the islands from Taiwan to Madagascar. It can be planted in aquatic paddies, our most familiar vision of rice, but also as an upland crop called hill paddy rice, in tropical areas with lots of rainfall.The traditional rituals that accompany every step of the cultivation and harvest acknowledge a belief system that a soul lies within each and every grain. Rice is always considered female in Eastern cultures, and while men can prepare the land and irrigation system, it is the women who plant seedlings, harvest, and winnow. Harvests were not considered joyous, but were often accompanied by lamentations as the body of the "spirit" was reaped. In ceremonial plantings, seeds are returned to the G.o.ds via the soil. Even today, there are hand-carved "demons" dotting the rural Indian countryside positioned to guard the life-giving fields of rice from invisible forces. Rice dolls, fas.h.i.+oned from the sacred first cuttings, give the precious spirit of the rice a home until the next planting. In Sri Lanka, astrologers a the heavenly logistics of when to plant the rice.Although the j.a.panese culture is intertwined with the importance of rice as a basic food, rice did not reach j.a.pan until the second century B.C. The emperor, regarded as a direct descendant of the sun, planted his own personal paddy field of rice on the palace grounds. In j.a.pan the rice deity is Inari, the rice-bearer, and miniature shrines to him are scattered throughout the rural countryside and villages. On February 12, the j.a.panese celebrate a popular folk festival, Hatsuuma, in the presence of the Inari shrines to pray for a good rice crop.

the rice cooker MACHINE

Congratulations on your purchase of an electric or electronic rice cooker. It's versatile and reliable, a very nifty little bit of technology. It can make perfect rice and, as you are about to find out, much more. The electric rice cooker is a kitchen appliance that was born in the climate of postwar j.a.pan. Available since the early 1950s, when the first machines were manufactured by Tos.h.i.+ba, the rice cooker is a contemporary of the electric blender, part of the surge for faster, more convenient food preparation with the aid of the widespread availability of electricity as a relatively cheap power source. The current variety available is astonis.h.i.+ng: The smallest, simplest models can be had for about $15; large, sleek, technologically advanced versions easily run into the hundreds of dollars.

At its simplest, the rice cooker machine is a round, removable, aluminum bowl that sits atop a metal heating element. The heating element looks like a solid metal spring the size of a quarter. It automatically can "sense" when the water is boiled off by the temperature inside the pot (the amount of water added determines the length of the cooking time, not the amount of rice) and automatically shuts the unit off. It has a round metal or gla.s.s lid with a k.n.o.b handle.The bowl has a rim or handles for lifting it in and out of the appliance ousing. There is a switch to push down for turning on the appliance. The switch pops up when the machine turns off. Today's models are remarkably similar in style to those first ones made by the major j.a.panese companies still in business today: Hitachi, Zojirus.h.i.+, Sanyo, Tos.h.i.+ba, and Panasonic/National. Newcomers include Aroma, Rival, and DuPont.

The shape of the rice cooker bowl was designed to mimic the shape of the okama okama, the traditional j.a.panese metal pot for cooking rice, with a curved bottom and wooden lid (dlightly curved bottom is well known as an efficient heat conductor as far as cooking pots are concerned. It enables food to be cooked efficiently within the confines of the pot using the least amount offuel. The okama okama was used for many centuries over an open fire or on top of a wood-burning stove. With the gradual modernization of j.a.panese homes, first in the cities and then in the outlying rural villages, housewives adopted cooking in the electric rice cooker as a simple alternative to using up limited s.p.a.ce on their new electric or gas stoves. Half a century later, the electric rice cooker is a commonplace appliance in every j.a.panese home. was used for many centuries over an open fire or on top of a wood-burning stove. With the gradual modernization of j.a.panese homes, first in the cities and then in the outlying rural villages, housewives adopted cooking in the electric rice cooker as a simple alternative to using up limited s.p.a.ce on their new electric or gas stoves. Half a century later, the electric rice cooker is a commonplace appliance in every j.a.panese home.

If you eat rice more than a couple of times a week, a rice cooker is a sensible investment. It does an exceptional job of cooking rice and other whole grains, as well as being very durable.

TYPES OF RICE COOKERS.

There are two basic categories of rice cookers available on the market today: on/ off and fuzzy logic. Within these categories there are five types of machines: cook-and-shut- off, cook-and-reduce-heat, deluxe electronic, basic fuzzy logic, and induction heating. These range from simple to sophisticated, each reflecting a step in the evolution of the rice cooker. You can recognize the types not only by the range offeatures, but by the price. Choose your rice cooker by first a.n.a.lyzing what type of cooking you want to do with it. If you make only white rice and steam a few vegetables, go for a simpler machine. If you want the full range of timing and cooking capabilities, from porridge to brown rice, go for a more elaborate model, but realize that you won't be able to use it as a steamer. Models are labeled for what the cooker will do, such as Rice Cooker/Warmer or Rice Cooker/Steamer/Warmer. If you do a lot of steaming or make multicomponent steamed meals, look for a model with a large steamer tray or a set of baskets; this feature is not included in fuzzy logic cookers. We are not going to recommend any particular models since technology is constantly being updated and model numbers change often. Just stay with one of the reliable brands and shop for the features you desire.

Rice cookers come in standard sizes: the 3- or 4-cup capacity (small), 5- or 6-cup (medium), and 8- or 10- or 14-cup (large) models. Many manufacturers have models that can hold up to 20 cups for home use. The jumbo rice cooker, or deluxe cooker, has a capacity of 15 to 30 cups. This is a cook-and-reduce-heat type machine that is great for large families, entertaining, and small cottage businesses. It is available in restaurant supply stores.

Look for safety features such as thermal fuse protection and an automatic cord reel. All models come with a 6-ounce measuring cup (see Measuring Up,) and handy heat-resistant plastic rice paddle. Many come with a small steaming plate insert. If the model is designed to be portable, there will be a conveniently designed carrying handle.

On/Off Rice Cookers The two most basic types of rice cookers are the cook-and-shut-off cooker and the cook-and-reduce-heat cooker/warmer. Each has a round metal housing with a removable aluminum rice bowl; the carrying handles are on the outer housing and there is a switch on the front of the machine. This on/off mechanism, while seemingly simple compared to the newer fuzzy logic machines, contains the same efficient heating elements without the digital options. In addition to making rice, it is a superior machine for steaming purposes. The cook-and-reduce-heat cooker/warmer models can keep rice hot and ready to eat for several hours.

The third type of on/off rice cooker is the deluxe electronic model, which is fitted with an electronic sensor unit and retains the round housing style of the other on/off cookers.

Some manufacturers also have a model called the Persian-style rice cooker, designed specifically for making chelo chelo with with tahdig tahdig and and kateh kateh, the slow-cooked Middle Eastern daily rice preparations that create their own bottom crust.

Cook-and-Shut-Off Rice Cooker The cook-and- shut-off cooker, marketed simply as a rice cooker, is fast and safe. Tos.h.i.+ba Corporation of j.a.pan invented the first cook-and- shut-off rice cooker in 1955. Matsus.h.i.+ta Corporation introduced its own model soon after and brought the rice cooker to the U.S. market in 1957. You push down the switch and the machine turns on. It automatically shuts off when the rice is done (when the water boils off or if the pot is removed). If you are nearby, you will hear the switch pop up. The cook-and- shut-off cooker, marketed simply as a rice cooker, is fast and safe. Tos.h.i.+ba Corporation of j.a.pan invented the first cook-and- shut-off rice cooker in 1955. Matsus.h.i.+ta Corporation introduced its own model soon after and brought the rice cooker to the U.S. market in 1957. You push down the switch and the machine turns on. It automatically shuts off when the rice is done (when the water boils off or if the pot is removed). If you are nearby, you will hear the switch pop up.

This machine is the most basic (it is designed to make only white rice, although it does a credible job with brown rice, too, if you follow our instructions) and is very inexpensive. It is fitted with a plain aluminum cooking pot and a tempered gla.s.s or metal lid. There is no indicator light to tell you when the rice is done; if you don't hear the click as it shuts itself off, you can tell by examining the position of the switch. This is the only model that comes in a mini-size of 1 cup, for the single rice eater. You can find small models for $15 to $20.

Cook-and-Reduce-Heat Rice Cooker The cook-and-reduce-heat rice cooker (also known as the keep warm cooker), automatically adjusts the heating element to low when the thermostat senses that the water has boiled off and the rice is done. The two heat settings are On/Off and Keep Warm, which is basically very low heat. This type of machine will keep the rice warm for up to four hours before forming a thick crust on the bottom of the pan. There is an indicator light to let you know if the cooker is cooking or in keep warm mode. To turn off this rice cooker, you must unplug it. The cook-and-reduce-heat rice cooker (also known as the keep warm cooker), automatically adjusts the heating element to low when the thermostat senses that the water has boiled off and the rice is done. The two heat settings are On/Off and Keep Warm, which is basically very low heat. This type of machine will keep the rice warm for up to four hours before forming a thick crust on the bottom of the pan. There is an indicator light to let you know if the cooker is cooking or in keep warm mode. To turn off this rice cooker, you must unplug it.

Top-of-the-line models designed for the steaming option have one or two clear plastic steaming baskets with slatted tiers, which imitate the Chinese bamboo steamer baskets; this is a wonderful option that does a superior job. There is a tight-fitting, see-through tempered gla.s.s lid, which we consider essential. Less expensive models are fitted with plain aluminum cooking pots and metal lids, the more expensive (still comparatively inexpensive) ones have a Teflon nonstick rice bowl coating and gla.s.s lid. This machine usually comes with a perforated metal steamer tray that fits into the top of the rice bowl, allowing for other foods to be steamed as the rice is cooking. The cheaper models have a small tray that fits into the bottom of the bowl so that steaming is done only an inch above the element.

These are very reasonably priced machines; models sell for $40 to $75. A great deal and a good first machine.

Deluxe Electronic Rice Cooker The electronic machine, designed in the 1980s, was the next big jump in rice cooker technology-it cooks and keeps the rice warm and moist for up to 12 hours. The temperature is controlled by a thermal-read switch (note that the fuzzy logic machine senses by weight rather than by temperature). This is the type of cooker to get if you want to hold large quant.i.ties of rice for extended periods. The heating elements are located not only on the bottom, but on the sides as well, so the rice stays an even consistency and you won't get a thick crust or dry spots on the bottom of the pan. These machines are great if your family eats lots of rice and they do it at different times (for instance, if you want to make rice once a day and eat it all day long, as is done in many Asian households). You lift the lid, scoop some rice, and walk away, knowing that the next person will have access to warm, moist rice. There is an indicator light to let you know if the cooker is cooking or on the Keep Warm cycle. The electronic machine, designed in the 1980s, was the next big jump in rice cooker technology-it cooks and keeps the rice warm and moist for up to 12 hours. The temperature is controlled by a thermal-read switch (note that the fuzzy logic machine senses by weight rather than by temperature). This is the type of cooker to get if you want to hold large quant.i.ties of rice for extended periods. The heating elements are located not only on the bottom, but on the sides as well, so the rice stays an even consistency and you won't get a thick crust or dry spots on the bottom of the pan. These machines are great if your family eats lots of rice and they do it at different times (for instance, if you want to make rice once a day and eat it all day long, as is done in many Asian households). You lift the lid, scoop some rice, and walk away, knowing that the next person will have access to warm, moist rice. There is an indicator light to let you know if the cooker is cooking or on the Keep Warm cycle.

These machines usually cost $100 to $150; they do a great job and normally come with a Teflon nonstick rice bowl coating. Many of the deluxe electronic machines are portable.

Fuzzy Logic Rice Cookers The fuzzy logic rice cookersthe basic fuzzy logic and the induction heating machine-are immediately recognizable by their digital face, multiple-choice function b.u.t.tons, and elongated housing shape that Beth has dubbed "Queen Mum's Hatbox. " Note that these machines are not usually set up for steaming (you could use an expandable steamer basket, but it might scratch the bowl lining).

Basic Fuzzy Logic Cooker The fuzzy logic cooker (also called neuro fuzzy), which hit the market in the early 1990s, is the next step up from the electronic models. Fuzzy logic technology enables the rice cooker to judge and calculate the amount of rice by weight, automatically adjusting the cooking time. Fuzzy logic rice crican food community and for good reason: They make fantastic rice. If you can afford the price and eat rice regularly, this is the machine to invest in; they are great. The first ones on the market were designed to handle white rice, especially the medium- and short-grain white rice preferred in j.a.pan. They have evolved to incorporate multiple menus, choice of what texture you want your rice to have (soft or hard), a Porridge (or Soup) setting, and a Brown Rice setting. At this writing, Williams-Sonoma carried a lovely medium-size National brand fuzzy logic rice cooker complete with a Sus.h.i.+ cycle (signaling a machine made for the j.a.panese market), which is a nice touch, though not essential if you want to make sus.h.i.+ at home. The fuzzy logic cooker (also called neuro fuzzy), which hit the market in the early 1990s, is the next step up from the electronic models. Fuzzy logic technology enables the rice cooker to judge and calculate the amount of rice by weight, automatically adjusting the cooking time. Fuzzy logic rice crican food community and for good reason: They make fantastic rice. If you can afford the price and eat rice regularly, this is the machine to invest in; they are great. The first ones on the market were designed to handle white rice, especially the medium- and short-grain white rice preferred in j.a.pan. They have evolved to incorporate multiple menus, choice of what texture you want your rice to have (soft or hard), a Porridge (or Soup) setting, and a Brown Rice setting. At this writing, Williams-Sonoma carried a lovely medium-size National brand fuzzy logic rice cooker complete with a Sus.h.i.+ cycle (signaling a machine made for the j.a.panese market), which is a nice touch, though not essential if you want to make sus.h.i.+ at home.

With a bit offiddling, we got long-grain white rice and brown rice to turn out as well as the medium-grain rices in fuzzy logic machines without special cycles. The beautiful spherical DuPont SilverStone coated cooker bowl that is made from a combination of stainless steel and high-grade aluminum (the shape is a fantastic heat conductor) is so easy to clean you will wish every pan you own was just like it. There is a hinged cover. There are various settings, like the Quick Cook cycle (reduces the cooking time by 20 minutes by eliminating the soak rest at the beginning) and the gentle Porridge cycle. The cooking process includes brief soaking at the beginning and steaming at the end. The digital 24-hour clock with timer brings freedom to the cooking process, so you can program the time you want the rice to start or finish cooking. Place the ingredients in the pot, set the timer, and the rice or meal is ready when you are. After the food is cooked, the unit automatically switches to the Keep Warm function, which keeps foods moister than in conventional models, warming it for up to 12 hours.

The prices on these machines range from $170 to $200 and up. You can't have everything, though, and these models are not designed for steaming.

Induction Heating Rice Cooker The induction heating cooker is fitted with state-ofthe-art microm technology designed for sensitive sensor timing and temperature detection. It does everything the earlier model offuzzy logic machine does, plus it delivers a finished product that is the most evenly cooked of any method available because of the accuracy of the microm technology controlled by a microcomputer (think micro chip). Also known as the microm rice cooker, these models have been introduced into the mainstream appliance market during the last seven years in j.a.pan. This machine is described as "the thinker." The technology in the sensor unit can compensate for improper measuring since it judges the temperature and detects moisture proportions, allowing for multiple functions, especially important in rices other than white, such as wild rice and brown rices. The induction heating rice cooker uses the highest amount of wattage of all the machines. The induction heating cooker is fitted with state-ofthe-art microm technology designed for sensitive sensor timing and temperature detection. It does everything the earlier model offuzzy logic machine does, plus it delivers a finished product that is the most evenly cooked of any method available because of the accuracy of the microm technology controlled by a microcomputer (think micro chip). Also known as the microm rice cooker, these models have been introduced into the mainstream appliance market during the last seven years in j.a.pan. This machine is described as "the thinker." The technology in the sensor unit can compensate for improper measuring since it judges the temperature and detects moisture proportions, allowing for multiple functions, especially important in rices other than white, such as wild rice and brown rices. The induction heating rice cooker uses the highest amount of wattage of all the machines.

These are the most expensive machines, though the price is coming down; they start at about $200, with the top models at about $400.

TIPS FOR BUYING A RICE COOKER ABROADPlanning a trip? If you are traveling to or through many of the major airports in Asia, you'll find a large selection of high-end rice cookers in the duty-free electronics shops. Julie's beloved Sanyo fuzzy logic rice cooker came from the Tokyo airport. At the time, there were about 15 rice cookers to choose from, priced from $80 to more than $400 for the large fuzzy logic models. Obviously these are not the under-$20 models found in many American variety stores, but serious machines for serious cooks.important note: Before you buy abroad, double-check to make sure the machine runs on U.S. current, has a U.S.-style plug, and comes with English- language instructions and English-language b.u.t.tons (Julie's is labeled in English and Chinese). Generally speaking, if you're visiting Asia, you'll be better off shopping for your rice cooker at the airport instead of in town. The airport is the best place to find rice cookers meant for the English-speaking consumer. Before you buy abroad, double-check to make sure the machine runs on U.S. current, has a U.S.-style plug, and comes with English- language instructions and English-language b.u.t.tons (Julie's is labeled in English and Chinese). Generally speaking, if you're visiting Asia, you'll be better off shopping for your rice cooker at the airport instead of in town. The airport is the best place to find rice cookers meant for the English-speaking consumer.

HOW THE RICE COOKER WORKS (THE SCIENTIFIC SCOOP).

The rice cooker has taken all the guess work out of cooking rice. Well, sort of. First you have to figure out how to use it and what it does. While you don't have to know what and when, you most certainly have to know the recipe, the proportions of rice to water, and the parameters of what the machine can or cannot do to get the best possible results. Then it is automatic. This is a machine that will grow on you as you use it (be prepared; each machine has its own personality) and the steps involved will become second nature. We guarantee it.

The best rice is achieved by the following steps: was.h.i.+ng or rinsing, soaking, boiling, and steaming. It is a variation of stovetop cooking, a boil-steam method known as the Canton style.

Was.h.i.+ng or Rinsing the Rice The was.h.i.+ng or rinsing (depending on what type of rice you have) is done by hand before you place the rice in the cooker. Almost all serious consumers of rice rinse the rice thoroughly before cooking, but it is a step that is purely optional. There are good reasons to do so. Cooking instructions in the United States instruct you not to rinse the rice because, by law, rice meant for the American consumer has been fortified with powdered vitamins that are removed during rinsing. If you want the vitamins (which are not necessary if you have a well-balanced diet), then do not wash or rinse. If you want the best quality cooked rice, then was.h.i.+ng helps by removing much of the loose surface starch, and will reduce excess stickiness. The difference is subtle, but a real rice eater can tell the difference: The flavor is cleaner, the whiteness improves, and the rice is less sticky when cooked. (This is preferred even for sticky-type j.a.ponica j.a.ponica rices.) And, of course, the subtle flavors of the vitamins are removed. See our section on how to wash rice. rices.) And, of course, the subtle flavors of the vitamins are removed. See our section on how to wash rice.

The exception to this is that Arborio and other risotto-style rices are never washed before using, because the starch is what makes the risotto creamy.

A new type of processing technology developed in j.a.pan and just beginning to be used in the United States may put an end to the was.h.i.+ng of j.a.panese-style rice. This rice, which is sold under several brand names, is labeled "Musenmai" and "Rinse-free rice." It takes just a bit more water to cook than regular rice, because rice absorbs some water during was.h.i.+ng. This rice tastes delicious, but some cooks we know still can't resist giving it a quick rinse anyway. Old habits die hard.

Soaking the Rice Soaking white rice for about an hour before cooking allows moisture to get to the center of the kernel, reduces cooking time, and improves the final texture. During the boiling phase, the heat will transfer quicker to the center and the rice will be done six to eight minutes faster, causing the least amount of damage to the outside of the delicate kernels. Soaking can be done outside the cooker, or in the rice cooker bowl with the cover closed before turning on the machine. In fuzzy logic machines, a short soak period is automatically timed in all but the Quick Cook cycle.

Boiling the Rice Rice needs to cook in hot water in order to get additional moisture into the rice and transfer the heat necessary to gelatinize the starch in rice. When you turn on your rice cooker, it begins to slowly heat the contents of the rice bowl. Soon the water boils and the grains of rice begin absorbing water; you will hear the rice and water start to bubble in the machine. (In fuzzy logic rice cookers, there is a built-in Soak cycle for the rice, designed to help it absorb water better. In that case, it may appear to take a long time for the water to boil. Don't worry. When the time is right, the cooker will kick into high gear and boil the water.) It takes about 15 minutes in boiling water to get water and heat absorbed into the center of the rice kernel. If you look inside the cooker during this period, you will see semi-cooked rice with steam holes over the surface. These are caused by pockets of water vapor that were formed on the pan bottom and have risen to the surface. The water bubbles in the cooker until the temperature exceeds 212F, then the cooker shuts off. The temperature of water cannot exceed 212F, so the cooker knows all the water is gone when the temperature hits a few degrees higher. (This is the secret to how the cooker knows the rice is ready.) Do not remove the cover at this time.

Steaming the Rice In the new on/off and fuzzy logic cookers, the steaming period is built into the regular cooking cycle, and the Keep Warm cycle is an extended low-heat steaming period. In simpler models, you set a timer or note the time. The rice cooker switches from the cooking cycle to the Keep Warm cycle (or, in simple on/off machines, simply shuts off). But your rice isn't finished yet. Now is when the steaming process takes place.

Steaming is a key part of the cooking process. It allows further cooking of the rice without any swelling damage to the starch inside the grain. Ten minutes of steaming is adequate for most models of rice cooker and most rices; if your rice still seems wet at the end of 10 minutes, wait and check at 5-minute intervals. When the steaming period ends, uncover the rice cooker and stir or fluff the rice thoroughly but gently with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Replace the cover if you are not serving the rice immediately. Rice is not done until the center of each grain is completely cooked, which is achieved during the final steaming period. The result: perfectly cooked rice. Most rice is perfectly cooked when its moisture content is between 58 and 64 percent, though the final moisture content is a matter of preference and differs with every type of rice. Some fuzzy logic machines have a setting for regular, soft, and firm textures, varying the amount of moisture in the rice. The more water per cup of rice, the longer the machine will cook the rice.

Machines without a Keep Warm cycle just turn off when the regular cycle is finished. You let the rice steam for the specified time after the machine shuts off. There is enough retained heat to accomplish the steaming. You can hold the rice in the machine for as long as it stays warm, certainly for an hour, but the exact time depends on the machine, its size, and how full it is. This is a place where you have to use your judgment.

CLICK TO SEE THE FACE OF THE RICE COOKERCLICK TO SEE THE PORRIDGE CYCLE.

RICE COOKER BASICS.

Here are a few tips and basic pieces of information that will help you get the most from your rice cooker.

Our first bit of advice is to carefully review and read the manufacturer's little booklet that came with your rice cooker. Brands do differ. Orient yourself to the parts of the machine and the list of safety precautions. Then review the manufacturer's recipes for any that appeal to you. You can use the manufacturer's recipes, a recipe designed for the rice cooker on a package of rice or one using our convenient rice charts, or recipes from this book.

Measuring Up Measuring the rice correctly is of crucial importance to achieving success in your rice cooker. Please read this section carefully before making your first pot of rice.

1. Don't throw away the little plastic measuring cup that came with your rice cooker. That measuring cup is the standard unit of measurement for your machine. When the little booklet that came with your rice cooker says to put in 2 cups of rice and add water to the "2-cup" level on the bowl, that means you are supposed to measure the rice with that little cup with that little cup, not with one of your regular measuring cups. This is very important. Throughout this book, we will refer to this unit of measurement as a "rice cooker cup." Throughout this book, we will refer to this unit of measurement as a "rice cooker cup."

We must say we were a bit surprised by these measuring cups. Even the ones that come with very expensive rice cookers are made from thin, translucent plastic and seem almost like an afterthought. Don't be fooled. These measuring cups are essential. A rice cooker cup measures out to 180 milliliters (about 6 ounces or 3.4 of a U.S. cup) and a standard U.S. cup holds 240 milliliters, so there is a difference. Measuring with this special cup may seem awkward at first, but you will quickly get used to it.

2. In this book, many of our recipes, especially the Asian-style ones and the measurement charts for plain rice, use the rice cooker cup form of measurement. Other recipes use standard U.S. cups. We always specify the difference. But even when we measure rice with the rice cooker cup, we measure liquids using the U.S. standard cups and ounces. Why? We've found it most convenient to keep our rice cooker cups clean, dry, and ready to use with rice and other grains. It's also difficult to measure liquids (especially larger quant.i.ties) precisely with the little cups.

3. Rice cooker directions are beginning to appear on the back of packages of rice, especially on brands that are marketed to Asian-American consumers. In all of the examples that we found, the directions were given in terms of rice cooker cups, even if the directions just said "cups". This is frequently also the case for rice cooker recipes that you find on the Internet.

4. In case you lose your special rice cooker measuring cup, or prefer otherwise, you can measure both your raw rice and water with a standard U.S. measuring cup with excellent results. This is the case with many of the more complex rice recipes in this book.

5. If a friend shares a rice cooker recipe with you, it's a good idea to ask, in the case of both solid and liquid ingredients, "Is this in rice cooker cups or regular U.S. cups?"

Making That First Pot of Rice in Your Rice Cooker Your first look at the rice cooker can be a bit confusing, especially with the digital face on a fuzzy logic machine. But the procedure is exactly the same with all models: Choose a recipe, a.s.semble your ingredients, measure and wash the rice, load the rice bowl, add the water, close the cover, plug it in, and press the b.u.t.ton. Here are the details.

1. Measure the desired amount of rice. Don't mound the rice in the measuring cup-level it off with a sweep of your finger or a table knife. For reference, 1 pound of raw rice is equal to a bit more than 3 rice cooker cups.

2. Some cooks swear by coating the rice bowl with a film of nonstick cooking spray or 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to prevent sticking and keep the rice grains a bit more separate (especially brown rices); while some of our recipes call for this step when applicable, it is purely optional.

3. If desired, rinse or wash the rice, or follow the instructions in each specific recipe for any presoaking, depending on the type of rice. Many cooks wash the rice right in the rice cooker bowl, even though the instructions that come with many machines say not to. (If you choose to do this, and we frequently do, we promise not to tell.) 4. Place the drained rice in the bowl of your rice cooker; if the rice is wet, you may need a rubber spatula to get all of the grains out of the bowl. Place the bowl into the body of the rice cooker machine. With your hand or your rice spatula, spread out the rice into a fairly flat layer over the entire bottom surface of the bowl. This helps it cook evenly.

5. Measure and add the required amount of cold liquid to the bowl. Use bottled or filtered water rather than tap water for the best tasting rice. You can use the lines on the inside of the rice cooker bowl as a guide. If you have put in 1 rice cooker cup of rice, add water to the "1'' line. More elaborate rice cookers (especially the fuzzy logic models) often have several sets of lines on the bowl, indicating the amount of water needed for regular rice, "soft" rice, "hard" rice, brown rice, sus.h.i.+ rice, or rice porridge. Follow the correct line for the type of rice you are making. If you choose to measure the rice in U.S. dry measuring cups, of course the lines on the bowl will not apply. You will add liquid measured in a U.S. measuring cup according to the recipe you have selected.

Many people, especially those raised in Asian households, swear by the finger-measuring method. Plop in the desired amount of rice, smooth it out, and add water until the level comes to the first knuckle on your index finger, with your finger tip just touching the surface of the rice. Many experienced rice cooks measure in this manner, a relatively constant level (about inch) of water above the level of the rice, regardless of the quant.i.ty of rice.

Some people like their rice a little bit softer; some, a little bit harder. As you become an experienced rice cooker owner, you will develop your own preferences. If you want softer rice, you'll add a bit more water; for firmer rice, you'll add a bit less.

Add salt, if called for in the recipe, give the mixture a swirl with your finger or a rice paddle, and close the cover.

6. Plug in the unit and arrange the cooker on your counter away from the wall and out from under the cabinets so the steam can escape the vent without hindrance.

7. On fuzzy logic machines, choose the regular White Rice/Brown Rice cycle, then press Cooking/Cook. On the cook-and-keep- warm or cook-and-shut-off machines, simply press down on the switch. No peeking, please! The hot steam inside the machine is what is cooking the rice; open the cover and the moisture is lost as the steam evaporates, and the moderate pressure and heat that have naturally built up will dissipate in an instant cloud. The rice cooker uses the same principles and process of cooking as a covered pot on the stove: You boil the mixture until all of the water is evaporated or absorbed. The main advantage of a rice cooker is that it knows when to stop cooking automatically, thanks to a sensitive built-in thermostat rather than your judgment, and prevents the scorching normally a.s.sociated with stovetop methods.

8. The steaming period at the end of the cooking cycle is crucial crucial to your success. It is the time when the rice "rests" and any extra liquid is absorbed. In fuzzy logic cookers, this period is often automatically programmed in. When the finish "beep" sounds, the rice is really done, steaming and all. In on/off cookers, you must listen for the "click" when the machine switches off the cooking cycle and into its Keep Warm cycle. (In very inexpensive on/off cookers, there is no Keep Warm mode. The rice will rest, covered, for the specified time in the machine.) Set a timer or note the time on a piece of paper. For the best textured rice, it is advisable to let the cooked rice rest for 10 to 15 minutes after the cooking cycle has ended with a small or medium rice cooker, 15 to 20 minutes with a large one. This rest period gives the rice time to settle and absorb a bit more moisture, softening the starch a bit further. to your success. It is the time when the rice "rests" and any extra liquid is absorbed. In fuzzy logic cookers, this period is often automatically programmed in. When the finish "beep" sounds, the rice is really done, steaming and all. In on/off cookers, you must listen for the "click" when the machine switches off the cooking cycle and into its Keep Warm cycle. (In very inexpensive on/off cookers, there is no Keep Warm mode. The rice will rest, covered, for the specified time in the machine.) Set a timer or note the time on a piece of paper. For the best textured rice, it is advisable to let the cooked rice rest for 10 to 15 minutes after the cooking cycle has ended with a small or medium rice cooker, 15 to 20 minutes with a large one. This rest period gives the rice time to settle and absorb a bit more moisture, softening the starch a bit further.

9. When the "resting" period is over, open the cooker cover and stir the rice thoroughly but gently with a wooden or plastic rice paddle, or a wooden spoon. If you are not ready to serve the rice, re-cover or close the lid immediately to keep it warm on the Keep Warm cycle, if your model has one.

10. Enjoy eating your perfectly cooked rice!

Cleanup It is recommended that all parts of the rice cooker be washed by hand, not in a dishwasher. Even with cooked-on rice, a quick soak in cold water has always been all that is needed to quickly clean the bowl. The most simple machines have an uncoated aluminum bowl. If your bowl has a Teflon or SilverStone nonstick coating, use a sponge or plastic scrubber that will not scratch its surface. The machine housing only needs a sponge-down after unplugging; it should never be immersed in water.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK.

This is a book dedicated to recipes that can be made in electric rice cooker machines. It is important to note that there are many models of rice cookers but just two basic styles: the on/off and fuzzy logic machines. Many of the following recipes can be made in either type of machine, but some can be made only in one or the other. If you are not sure what type of machine you have, Before starting a recipe, please check to make sure you have the type of machine recommended for that recipe. For more information on the cycles.

CLICK TO SEE KEEP WARM CYCLE.

A note about machine sizes: In addition to information about machine type, each recipe is labeled with a size of rice cooker: small (4-cup), medium (6-cup), or large (10cup). The size given is the one that works best for the recipe. In many cases, though, you can adjust the recipe for a smaller or larger rice cooker by increasing or decreasing ingredients. However, do not exceed the manufacturer's stated capacity for your machine.

The Regular Cycle In the recipes, the regular cycle refers to the basic cooking program for the on/off and fuzzy logic machines. To begin the regular cycle in the on/off machine, you press or flip the switch to the Cook position. To begin the regular cycle in the fuzzy logic machines, you program for the regular/Brown Rice cycle by pressing that b.u.t.ton. The Quick Cook program is an abbreviated cycle of the regular cycle on the fuzzy logic machines.

The recipes in the following chapters can be made in both types of machines, but for the best results, be sure to check the key information at the top of the recipe regarding the machine size and Keep Warm limits.

The Perfect Pot of Rice Simple Everyday Rices and Little Meals The Family of Pilafs The Whole-Grain Cooker Sus.h.i.+ Beans and Legumes The Porridge Cycle The Porridge cycle is an exclusive feature of the fuzzy logic machines. While we have found that many of the recipes in the chapters listed below can be made in the on/off machines using the regular cycle on the Cook position (check each recipe), the results are not as satisfactory as on the Porridge cycle. This is because the on/off machines run at a higher temperature that maintains a full rolling boil and, if there is a lot of liquid in the recipe, such as for risotto, the machine will not automatically turn off. The Porridge cycle has a longer, more gentle simmer. For the best results, be sure to check the key information at the top of the recipe regarding machine size to avoid boilover.

Risotto Polenta, Grits, and Hominy Hot Breakfast Cereals and Porridges Sweet Puddings and Fruit Desserts Steaming in the Rice Cooker Unless foods are placed directly on top of the rice, steaming is a feature that works best in the on/off machines. We recommend the large (10-cup) cooker fitted with a steamer plate in the bottom of the bowl, an insert tray, or a set of stacked steamer baskets for most of these recipes.

The fuzzy logic machines with their attached covers do not have the wide range of steamer capabilities of the on/off machines. For the best results, please carefully read the hints for successful steaming on please carefully read the hints for successful steaming on before making the recipes in the following chapters. before making the recipes in the following chapters.

Vegetables in the Rice Cooker Whole-Meal Steam Cuisine Dim Sum, Dolmas, and Tamales: Little Bites Custards and Steamed Puddings THE FACE OF THE RICE COOKEROn the front of each rice cooker body is the cooking control panel. There are only two distinctly different faces to the mult.i.tude of rice cookers: One is the simple on/off machine that has a manual cooking indicator switch and prominent power indicator light; the other is the digital face of the fuzzy logic cookers, which has a clock and b.u.t.tons in place of the switch used in the cook-and-shut-off cookers, cook-and-keep-warm cookers, and electronic cookers. Here is a simplified guide to these controls. As always, carefully read your manufacturer's manual to familiarize yourself with your particular machine.On / Off CookersThe on/off cookers have a switch that can be clicked into an up or down position-down being the On or Cook cycle and up being the Off or Keep Warm cycle. Both positions snap securely into place. Cook and Keep Warm both deliver a constant heat, although at two different temperatures: On is the high temperature and Keep Warm is the low temperature.The power indicator light is lit as soon as the machine is plugged in, and the machine immediately heats up depending on which position the switch is in. There may be a secondary indicator light labeled Cook or Keep Warm, the easy visual for identifying immediately where the switch is set. The Cook position equates to the regular cycle in the fuzzy logic machines. To cook rice, you must press the switch down to Cook; when the cooker senses the rice is done, it will automatically snap to the up, or Keep Warm, position. It will hold on the Keep Warm position until you unplug the machine (which you must do to turn it off). Note that the least expensive cookers do not have a Keep Warm feature.Digital-Face CookersYou can immediately recognize the modern digital face and display clock of the fuzzy logic and induction heating rice cookers. The digital control panel, manipulated with b.u.t.tons (also referred to as keys), will vary slightly from brand to brand, but they all have basically the same features. You will have a main Cooking/Reheat b.u.t.ton, one for Keep Warm (which can be used to reset the program by stopping the cycle at any point). You may have a b.u.t.ton for an Extended Keep Warm cycle on models in which the regular Keep Warm is designed for only the first three hours after rice is made. The Timer b.u.t.ton can be used to trigger the memory capabilities of the machine and preset the timer for starting the machine automatically. Refer to your manufacturer's manual for the specific steps for setting the timer. Remember that your rice will be soaking while waiting for the machine to turn on. To prevent spoilage, never leave rice soaking in a meat or poultry broth or with perishable ingredients.All the b.u.t.tons/keys have their own indicator lamp to visually cue you where the machine is in the cycle. Only one indicator lamp will be lit at one time. The first few times you might be a bit awkward getting the sequence to program the keys, but once you get the hang of setting the controls on your machine, you will find it a smooth and almost automatic procedure.Keep Warm CycleWhen the rice is done, both the on/off and fuzzy logic machines will automatically switch to the constant low temperature of the Keep Warm mode, designed to be a nice temperature for serving. On the fuzzy logics, there may be a digital record of how long the rice has been on Keep Warm from the end of the cooking cycle, given in units of hours. In machines with a two-cycle Keep Warm function, the Keep Warm cycle will automatically shut off after three hours, or you can stop the machine by pressing the b.u.t.ton (the light will go out). In these machines, the light for the Keep Warm goes out at the end of the time period, the Extended Keep Warm clicks in, and an even lower set temperature will take over for an additional eight hours. In some machines, at the end of the eight hours, the machine will automatically switch back to the Keep Warm cycle. You can press Extended Keep Warm at any time and press Keep Warm to prepare the rice for eating. In the on/off machines, the Keep Warm is on until you unplug the machine.These cycles are based on cooking medium-grain white rice. Be sure to refer to specific recipes for the recommended amount of time to safely keep warm various types of rice and more complex rice preparations. Even white rice will dry out or spoil when left for extended periods on Keep Warm. Dishes that include any type of meat, fish, beans, or vegetables should always be eaten as soon as possible after the cooking cycle is completed to avoid spoilage. Brown rice can sour when left on Keep Warm for more than an hour (especially in hot weather), and glutinous rice loses its desirable texture. The Keep Warm cycle also automatically clicks in after the Porridge cycle has completed, but rice porridge, such as congee, should not be left on Keep Warm.MenuThe Menu b.u.t.ton is the first b.u.t.ton you will press to make your choices for how your machine will cook your rice. It is automatically set for a white rice cycle. You select the desired texture (Regular-sometimes called Normal-Softer, Harder, Porridge, Quick Cook), and an audio signal will beep and a visual indicator signal will rotate counterclockwise through these positions as you press the b.u.t.ton. The white rice b.u.t.ton is sometimes labeled White/ Brown, but some machines have separate settings for both brown rice and sus.h.i.+ rice, which need to be cooked to textures very different than regular white rice.Regular/ Softer/ HarderThe machine is automatically set for regular (or normal) when the machine is plugged in. If you want something other than that, you will use the Menu b.u.t.ton to set it. Regular is usually the setting for cooking white rice, brown rice, mixed rice, and glutinous rice. Softer is a good setting if you like your white rice a softer consistency. Harder is a good setting for rice that will be used in rice salads and other preparations, such as stuffings, where the rice will be further cooked with other ingredients.Quick Cook CycleSome fuzzy logic rice cookers have a Quick Cook cycle as well as a regular cycle. The Quick Cook cycle bypa.s.ses the regular cycle's built-in soak time and is very convenient when you want rice in a hurry. It is also handy in one other situation: when you are sauteing ingredients in the rice cooker bowl. In this case, you want to program the cooker for the Quick Cook cycle when you are heating the oil or b.u.t.ter and sauteing the ingredients. Then when you are finished sauteing and are ready to add the liquid and proceed with the recipe, you have a choice. You may cancel the Quick Cook cycle and program whatever cycle is required for the recipe, the regular cycle or the Porridge cycle, for instance. Or, if the recipe does not require the Porridge cycle, you may simply let the Quick Cook cycle complete. In the Quick Cook mode, you cannot select the texture of the rice, so the texture may be slightly different than when you cook on the regular cycle.Porridge CycleThe fuzzy logic machines all offer a Porridge cycle designed to cook the staple savory rice breakfast porridge enjoyed throughout Asia. It has a medium-low, constant set temperature different than that for the regular cycle for white rices and the Keep Warm cycle. The on/off machines do not have this feature. For more information on the Porridge cycle capabilities, see the following page.ReheatSome fuzzy logic machines have a Reheat mode. The Reheat mode is on the same b.u.t.ton as the main b.u.t.ton for turning on the machine, labeled Cooking. It can be used to bring the rice that has been kept on the Keep Warm cycle, or leftover or refrigerated rice, back up to a hot serving temperature. (On machines without this feature, Keep Warm is serving temperature.) The machine will beep as soon as the right temperature is reached, usually about 5 to 10 minutes, then switch automatically to the Keep Warm mode. Most rice on Reheat, especially cold rice, needs a tablespoon or two of water per cup drizzled over it to rehydrate properly to a soft consistency. We recommend that you eat the rice as soon as the Reheat cycle indicates it is done rather than leave on Keep Warm (possibly for a second time) for the best consistency and to prevent a tough bottom layer from forming due to drying out.THE PORRIDGE CYCLEWe had a big surprise during the testing of recipes in the electronic fuzzy logic rice cooker-we love the Porridge cycle. It is incredibly versatile. It was developed for perfect "rice porridge," a versatile and nouris.h.i.+ng dish that is a staple in Asia, yet hardly prepared at all in Western kitchens. The gentle heat of the 45-minute cycle works well for the soupy Italian rice called risotto and for mushes like polenta, grits, and hominy, as well as hot breakfast cereals.But the Porridge cycle is not limited to these savory preparations. It makes knockout applesauce, creamy tapioca, and rice pudding right in the rice bowl, as well as exceptional fruit desserts that are poached in a liquid bath. We think you will be pleasantly surprised.While these foods are traditionally prepared on the stovetop, being able to make them in the rice cooker extends its capabilities to a more all-around appliance, a real boon if you are in a situation where you want to do your own cooking and there is no kitchen available. The other consideration is that this is a type of cooking that is completely unattended, with little risk of burning or overcooking. Consider the rice cooker in this capacity as a faster slow cooker. If all you have is the basic kind of rice cooker with the on/off switch, you can still make many of the recipes in this book that call for the Porridge cycle, with a bit more attention paid to the timing of the cooking process.The Porridge cycle is easily set for a second time to extend cooking time when necessary. This eliminates the need to use the automatic timer. If you need only a portion of the cycle, just set a kitchen timer and then cancel the program. The cooking process will stop immediately and you can serve your wonderful dish.

KEEP WARM CYCLEA special feature in the more sophisticated on/off and fuzzy logic machines is that after the machine has run a complete cycle, it will automatically switch to a Keep Warm cycle, which is a lower temperature than the Cook cycle. While this is not a feature of the simplest on/off machines, the more elaborate ones do have it. However, remember that to turn off the machine, you must unplug it or remove the rice bowl.While this is a purely optional step, it is convenient if you have not heard the beep signaling the end of the cycle, or you are not quite ready to serve your rice. The booklet that came with your rice cooker will tell you how long you may hold plain rice on the Keep Warm cycle. On most models, it will be 4 to 12 hours. (There may be an Extended Keep Warm b.u.t.ton as well.) Plain white rice can take the full period no problem, but some specialty brown rices (like Riz Rouge) should not be held