Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia Volume I Part 37

The wind was much lighter this morning and the surf not so heavy; we made a successful attempt to launch the boats just before sunrise. The wind still blew from the southward, and we found a heavy sea running outside.

The men however exerted all their energies and just before sunset we reached the northern mouth of the Gascoyne, and found a very good pa.s.sage into it with twelve feet water at low ebb-tide; but the other boat, not following our track, stuck fast on a sandbank, where she was soon left high and dry, and the tide fell so fast that we had a great deal of trouble in getting her afloat again.

BABBAGE ISLAND.

The bar once pa.s.sed there are three and three and a half fathoms in this land-locked creek even at low water; the portion of Babbage Island which is between it and the sea appears to be nothing but a s.h.i.+fting bed of sand, and the mainland a delta, covered with mangrove swamps and brackish lagoons, at least for about a mile back.* We lay down upon the sand close to the boats, which were left at anchor with a boat-keeper in each, and found great difficulty in collecting driftwood enough to make our fires.

(*Footnote. In the year 1667 the Dutch Commodore Vlaming appears to have visited these coasts and to have ascended a river which might have been the Gascoyne. The account of his exploration is thus briefly given by Flinders (Terra Australis volume 1 Introduction page 61) After relating the arrival of his two s.h.i.+ps off Cape Inscription at the north end of Dirk Hartog's Island he proceeds:

No mention is made by Valentyn of the s.h.i.+ps entering the road, nor of their departure from it; but it should seem that they anch.o.r.ed on February 4th. On the 5th Commodore Vlaming and the commander of the Nyptang went with three boats to the sh.o.r.e, which proved to be an island.

They found also a river, and went up it four or five leagues, amongst rocks and shoals, when they saw much water inland, as if the country were drowned, but no men, nor anything for food, and wherever they dug the ground was salt. They afterwards came to another river, which they ascended about a league, and found it to terminate in a round basin, and to be entirely salt water. No men were seen, nor any animals, except divers, which were very shy; and the country was dest.i.tute of gra.s.s and trees. Returning downward on the 10th, they saw footsteps of men and children of the common size, and observed the point of entrance into the river to be a very red sand.)

March 19.

The wind still blew pretty fresh from the southward; we however had no surf to impede us and therefore got under weigh soon after dawn. The men pulled away cheerfully and, although this was very hard work on account of the headwind and sea, we experienced no great difficulty until we had rounded Point Whitmore, at the north of Babbage Island, where we all at once found ourselves in broken water, so very shoal that between each breaker the boat was b.u.mped with great violence against the bottom, and must have been very soon stove in had we not speedily got into deeper soundings.

ANCHOR IN SOUTHERN ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER.

About 2 P.M. we neared the southern mouth of the Gascoyne, pulled two miles up it, and anch.o.r.ed about a mile and a half to the south of our former position. The men, although it was very warm and they had been pulling hard all day, had as yet only had about a wine-gla.s.s full of water each, I therefore lost no time in sending off a watering party; and the remainder of us collected samphire which grew abundantly hereabouts and forms a fair article of food for hungry men.

The remainder of the evening was occupied in completing our water and in endeavouring to get a shot at some pelicans, but although numerous they were too wary, and my feet were covered with such dreadful sores from bad diet and being constantly in the salt water that I could not walk to any great distance in search of game.

COMPLETE OUR WATER.

The completion of our supply of water was a very great matter and, as we had now got so far to the southward as to make our fetching the northern extremity of Bernier Island almost a matter of certainty, however strongly it might blow, I determined to effect the pa.s.sage the next day.

Indeed I could not have delayed it for our provisions, bad as they were, were almost exhausted, and the men were already much reduced from the scarcity and bad quality of their food.

CHAPTER 17. FROM THE GASCOYNE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.

SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.

March 20.

When we pulled out of the Gascoyne this morning the first streak of dawn had not lit up the eastern horizon, we however managed by creeping along the southern sh.o.r.e to get out to sea, and there anch.o.r.ed until it was light enough to see the compa.s.s. I found a very heavy sea running outside and a strong breeze blowing from the southward; at this time however there was nothing which in my opinion rendered it too hazardous to risk the pa.s.sage, more especially being pressed as we were by the want of food. The distance across to Bernier Island from the point of the main where we were was about ten miles further than it is from Dover to Calais. Our boats were in very bad repair, and the landing on the other side was by no means good. I therefore certainly would not have ventured to make the pa.s.sage in a gale of wind; but the weather did not seem threatening and it had been for many successive days blowing as hard as it was when we started.

CAUGHT IN A GALE OF WIND.

We might have gone nine or ten miles when the wind suddenly increased, and ere we had made five more it had become a perfect gale and we were obliged to keep the boats close hauled, for had we run ever so little before the wind we should not have fetched Bernier Island, and consequently should have been blown right out to sea. We had nothing therefore now to do but to struggle for it, and to use every energy to save ourselves. Sea after sea broke into the boat but the water was as rapidly baled out: none could have behaved better than the crews of both boats did, and the whole scene was one of such constant, cheerful, and successful exertion that, great as our danger was, I do not recollect ever having a keener perception of the pleasure of excited feelings, or a more thorough revelry of joyous emotions, than I had during this perilous pa.s.sage.

REACH BERNIER ISLAND.

Bernier Island at last rose in sight and amidst the giant waves we occasionally caught a peep of its rocky sh.o.r.es; but we were so tossed to and fro that it was only now and then that from the summit of some lofty sea we could sight a high sh.o.r.e which was not more than four or five miles from us. We had made the island about five miles from its northern extremity, and I ran along the sh.o.r.e until I found a convenient landing-place about a mile and a half to the south of our old one.

CHANGE IN THE LAND.

It was perfectly sheltered by reefs and an island, but it surprised me that I had not remarked this cove on my previous visit to the island, and I was still further astonished to see now three new small rocky islands, of which I had no recollection whatever. Indeed the men all for a long time stoutly denied that this was Bernier Island and, had we not now sighted Kok's Island, I should have doubted my skill in navigation and made up my mind that I had fallen into some strange error; but as it was forebodings shot across my wind as to what pranks the hurricane might have been playing upon the island, which consisted of nothing but loose sand heaped upon a bed of limestone rock of very unequal elevation.

I ran in my own boat upon a convenient point of the beach and the other boat followed in safety, for I did not like, in such foul weather, to leave them at anchor on a lee sh.o.r.e, which had previously proved so unsafe a position. A most awkward question now presented itself to my consideration: from the altered appearance of the coast I felt very considerable doubts as to the state in which the depot might be found; supposing anything had occurred to it I felt that it would be unadvisable that such a discovery should be made in the presence of many persons; as future discipline would in a great measure depend upon the first impression that was given. Who, then, had I better select for the purpose of visiting the depot in the first instance? After some deliberation I made choice of Mr. Smith and Corporal Coles, in the courage, disinterestedness, and self-possession of both of whom I placed great confidence. I directed Mr. Walker to see certain little alterations made in the boats before the men were allowed to straggle; these I knew would occupy them for some time and leave me therefore during this interval free to think and act according to circ.u.mstances. I now called Mr. Smith and Corporal Coles to accompany me, and told Coles to bring a spade with him.

DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS. SYMPTOMS OF CALAMITY.

Before we had gone very far alarming symptoms met my eyes in the form of staves of flour casks scattered about amongst the rocks, and even high up on the sandhills. Coles however persisted that these wore so far inland that they could only have come from the flour casks which we had emptied before starting. I knew they were far too numerous for such to be the case, but I suppressed my opinion and made no remarks. We next came to a cask of salt provisions, washed high and dry at least twenty feet above the usual high-water mark: the sea had evidently not been near this for a long period as it was half covered with drift sand which must have taken some time to acc.u.mulate. This Coles easily accounted for, it was merely the cask which had been lost from the wreck of the Paul Pry. I still thought otherwise but said nothing.

At length we reached the spot where the depot had been made: so changed was it that both Mr. Smith and Coles persisted it was not the place; but on going to the sh.o.r.e there were some very remarkable rocks, on the top of which lay a flour cask more than half empty, with the head knocked out, but not otherwise injured; this also was washed up at least twenty feet of perpendicular elevation beyond high water mark. The dreadful certainty now flashed upon the minds of Mr. Smith and Coles, and I waited to see what effect it would have upon them. Coles did not bear the surprise so well as I had expected; he dashed the spade upon the ground with almost ferocious violence, and looking up to me he said, "All lost, Sir! we are all lost, Sir!" Mr. Smith stood utterly calm and unmoved; I had not calculated wrongly upon his courage and firmness. His answer to Coles was, "Nonsense, Coles, we shall do very well yet; why, there is a cask of salt provisions and half a cask of flour still left."

I now rallied Coles upon his conduct; compared it with that of Mr. Smith, and told him that when I had taken him on to the depot in preference to the other men it had been in the expectation that, if any disaster had happened, he would, by his coolness and courage, have given such an example as would have exercised a salutary influence upon the others.

This had the desired effect upon him; he became perfectly cool and collected and promised to make light of the misfortune to the rest, and to observe the strictest discipline. I then requested Mr. Smith to see the little flour that was left in the barrel and on the rocks carefully collected by Coles, and, leaving them thus engaged, I turned back along the sea sh.o.r.e towards the party; glad of the opportunity of being alone as I could now commune freely with my own thoughts.

ALARMING POSITION AND PROSPECTS. REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO THE MAIN.

The safety of the whole party now depended upon my forming a prompt and efficient plan of operations, and seeing it carried out with energy and perseverance. As soon as I was out of sight of Mr. Smith and Coles I sat down upon a rock on the sh.o.r.e to reflect upon our present position. The view seawards was discouraging; the gale blew fiercely in my face and the spray of the breakers was dashed over me; nothing could be more gloomy and drear. I turned inland and could see only a bed of rock, covered with drifting sand, on which grew a stunted vegetation, and former experience had taught me that we could not hope to find water in this island; our position here was therefore untenable, and but three plans presented themselves to me: first, to leave a notice of my intentions on the island, then to make for some known point on the main and there endeavour to subsist ourselves until we should be found and taken off by the Colonial schooner; secondly, to start for Timor or Port Essington; thirdly, to try to make Swan River in the boats.

CONSOLATIONS OF RELIGION.

I determined not to decide hastily between these plans and, in order more fully to compose my mind, I sat down and read a few chapters in the Bible.

By the influence these imparted I became perfectly contented and resigned to our apparently wretched condition and, again rising up, pursued my way along the beach to the party. It may be here remarked by some that these statements of my attending to religious duties are irrelevant to the subject, but in such an opinion I cannot at all coincide. In detailing the sufferings we underwent it is necessary to relate the means by which those sufferings were alleviated; and after having, in the midst of perils and misfortunes, received the greatest consolation from religion, I should be ungrateful to my Maker not to acknowledge this, and should ill perform my duty to my fellow men did I not bear testimony to the fact that, under all the weightier sorrows and sufferings that our frail nature is liable to, a perfect reliance upon the goodness of G.o.d and the merits of our Redeemer will be found a sure refuge and a certain source of consolation.

In pursuing my route along the beach I carefully examined every heap of seaweed which the waves had thrown up, and was fortunate enough to find a bag of flour which had been washed up by the tide and held there by some rocks; though from daily soaking in salt water for several weeks it was quite spoilt and fermented, and smelt like beer; yet this, under present circ.u.mstances, was more valuable than its weight in gold. Just after I had found this bag, I met Ruston and another man coming from the boats to the depot; I at once told them exactly how matters stood; they bore the announcement better than I could have hoped for, and when I showed them that their safety altogether depended on their good conduct they promised the most implicit obedience and a ready cheerful demeanour. I must do Ruston the justice to say that under every trial he most scrupulously adhered to the promise he then made, and never infringed upon it in the slightest degree.

CONDUCT OF THE MEN.

When I reached the party and told the tale of the total disappearance of all we had left at the depot blank and dismayed faces met me on all sides. Mr. Walker and Corporal Auger set an excellent example to the others; but two men, of the names of Harry and Charley Woods, seized the first convenient opportunity of walking off to the place where our miserable remnant of damper was deposited with the intention of appropriating it to themselves. I only waited till they actually laid their hands upon it, when I stopped them, placed a sentry over what provisions were left, ordered a survey of all stores to be held, and a report to be made to me; and then went off with a party to search the sh.o.r.e in the hope of finding any other things which might have been washed up: our search however proved quite unsuccessful.

CHOICE OF PLANS.

I had warned the men that at sunset I would inform them what my intentions were with regard to our future movements; and in the meantime all hands were employed in searching for provisions or in preparing the boats for sea. A very gloomy prospect was before us: the men were already much reduced from illness, from using damaged provisions, and from hard work and exposure combined: our boats were in a very leaky unsound state, whilst all means of efficiently repairing them had been swept away in the hurricane. Add to this that the only provisions we had left really fit to eat were about nine days' salt meat, at the rate of a pound a man per diem, and about sixty pounds of tolerably good flour.

It would be useless to detail the different reasons which induced me to adopt the plan of endeavouring to make Swan River in the whale boats; this was however the course I resolved to pursue. Its princ.i.p.al advantages were that we should be constantly approaching home; and that if any accident should happen to the boats we might always hope to reach Perth by walking: the princ.i.p.al objection to it was the prevalence of strong south-east winds. At sunset the party a.s.sembled. I detailed to them at considerable length the three most feasible plans which had offered themselves to me, the reasons which had made me reject two of them, as well as those which led me to adopt the third; and as I knew that there were two or three insubordinate characters amongst the men, whom I had picked up at Fremantle, I further told them that, if a sufficient number to man one of the boats objected to follow me, they could go their own way; as the success of my scheme would altogether depend upon the courage and subordination with which it was carried out.

No dissentient voice was however raised, but they all promised to follow me wherever I might lead. We now made arrangements for searching for turtle during the night, and then stretched ourselves on the sand to try and sleep.

March 21.

We were unfortunate in not catching a turtle during the night; the season for them had however now pa.s.sed away, so that we could only hope to cut off a stray one which might have lingered behind its fellows. The next day was occupied in sticking up a steer-oar with a tin canister attached to it, containing a letter in which was detailed the plan I intended to follow, so that in the event of any accident occurring, and our remaining on the coast, we might still have the chance of a vessel being sent to search for us. The men were occupied in looking for sh.e.l.lfish, drying the flour, and preparing the boats. It blew nearly a gale of wind from the south throughout the day.

RETURN TO THE MAIN.

March 22.

This day at two P.M., all our preparations having been completed and the wind somewhat moderated, we stood across the bay, and soon after nightfall made the main about twelve miles to the north of the northern mouth of the Gascoyne. The wind freshened a great deal during the night; but as it was impossible to beach boats on so dangerous a coast in the dark we were obliged to trust to the goodness of our anchors, and they did not disappoint us.

March 23.

Before dawn this morning we were under weigh and pulling dead to windward against a strong breeze and heavy sea; the men rowed almost without intermission until noon when, finding them completely exhausted, I made sail and stood in towards the sh.o.r.e. When we had approached the land about four miles to the north of the Gascoyne a party of natives came down, without their spears, in the most friendly manner, making signs to us to land. We had however but little time to spare, and could not afford to give them any provisions: knowing also the small dependence that can be placed upon them in a first interview, I thought it most prudent to decline their invitation.

COMPLETE OUR WATER.

We accordingly continued our route and in the course of the evening made the river, where we completed our water, and halted for the night. We saw nothing more of the natives here, but I feel convinced that in the event of a settlement being formed at this point no difficulty would be found in establis.h.i.+ng and maintaining the most friendly relations with them.