Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia Volume II Part 8

April 29.

Mr. Walker moved on with Ruston about a mile and there found Mr. Smith clambering up some rocks, and having plenty of periwinkles, of which he gave them some. Clotworthy had stopped up all night and had picked up enough for four or five days. At night at low tide they got nearly fresh water running out from under the rocks.

April 30.

They still halted, living on the periwinkles; but this evening the water was more salt.

May 1.

This day the party separated into two portions and did not meet again until the 2nd, on which day Mr. Walker left them by agreement, he being the strongest of the party. His object was to proceed as expeditiously as he could to Fremantle and send from thence a boat and fresh water for the relief of the rest. The party he left behind having agreed to keep a constant look out on the beach and hoist concerted signals.

For two days after Mr. Walker left them it appears they wandered about to look for water and then fished. They fortunately fell in with a cask of water, washed up on the beach, from which they filled their canteens, roasted the fish and started on again, but made no distance. This lasted for several days. They subsisted by picking up a few sh.e.l.lfish and some dead birds which had been washed ash.o.r.e, and they ate a sort of cane that grows near the beach, and the Hottentot fig.

DEATH OF MR. SMITH.

Mr. Smith now gradually became exhausted, and at last one evening sat down on a bank, and said he could not go on. He was behind the party with Ruston, who thought he was dying, and went on and told the other men. The next morning Ruston went back to try and find where Mr. Smith was, but was so weak that (as he thought) he did not go far enough, and did not find him. Mr. Smith seems to have crawled up into the bush, a little on one side of their route, and there died.

TIMELY DISCOVERY OF THE REST BY MR. ROE. MR. ROE'S REPORT.

Four days after the rest were picked up by Mr. Roe's party, whose proceedings I shall now relate from his own interesting report; premising that the men had then been three days without water and four days without food, and had nothing to eat but the sweet cane that grows near the beach.

MR. ROE PROCEEDS IN SEARCH OF THE MISSING MEN.

Mr. Roe says:

Leaving Perth early on the 8th instant, accompanied by Mr. E. Spofforth and four men, with the native youths Warrup and Wyip, and five horses, we travelled in a north by west direction along a chain of beautiful lakes, from three to ten miles apart, and surrounded by good soil and gra.s.s to a short distance; and in the middle of the third day reached Neergabby on the Garban River, about 52 miles distant. Giving our horses an hour's rest, I rode forward twelve miles with Mr. Spofforth and Warrup to the mouth of the river, where we hoped to find some traces of the absentees; but to our disappointment and regret not a footmark was to be seen on the sand except those of Woods, and the written directions which had been placed conspicuously on sticks so as to intercept the track of the wanderers were either untouched or washed down by the high tides.

Replacing these with full instructions how to proceed, we returned to our camp at Neergabby, where we were joined by some natives of the district, from whom however no information whatever could be obtained respecting the objects of our search. Inferring from these circ.u.mstances that they could not yet have reached so far south, and that they might probably have quitted the beach for the purpose of seeking fresh water inland, we lost no time in pus.h.i.+ng on to the northward, and at sunset of the 11th took up our bivouac at Barrumbur on the Moore River, seventeen miles in advance, where excellent water was found in deep pools and our horses revelled in luxuriant pasturage. Between the two rivers there is a great extent of level country, so much under water in wet weather as to be then totally impa.s.sable with horses or carts, and the beds of the rivers (near which there is generally good cattle feed) a.s.sume the form of deep sandy pools, a few yards apart and grooved to the depth of 25 or 30 feet below the level of the banks.

Being desirous of penetrating the country further to the north before we again visited the beach, which was computed to be about fifteen miles distant with no water or feed for our horses in the intermediate s.p.a.ce, we buried half our provisions, etc., in a hole beneath our temporary shelter, which was then fired in order to lull the suspicion of the natives; and our sable companions having secreted the pannier-baskets and packsaddles among the adjoining bushes in such a way as to defy discovery, we trusted to Providence for the result, and next morning resumed our northern route. Leaving the extensive shallow lakes of Garbanup, at this time quite dry, about two miles on our left, we traversed a more hilly and dry sandy district than before, and had an elevated mountainous country fifteen or twenty miles to the eastward. We had now entered upon the inhospitable tract in which Mr. Grey and his party had been so much distressed for water on the homeward journey, and their feet-marks were distinctly recognised by our natives around a swampy s.p.a.ce in search of some. At the end of sixteen miles we reached Nowergup, a small rushy lake, at this time quite dry and dusty at the surface, but having at its north end a small well, seven feet deep, containing about a gallon of stinking water. Although this proved very palatable after a dry day's journey, it was by no means adapted to the wants of five horses, and we gladly accepted the services of one of the natives of the district to conduct us to a larger quant.i.ty. Our way to it led over a mile and a quarter of nearly level country, entirely under water in winter, and covered with rushes and tea-trees. At the lowest level was a well with abundance of water two feet below the surface, near which we immediately took up our quarters and learnt that the spot was called by them Bookernyup. We were also given to understand that the country to the northward and westward was at this time of the year entirely without water, and that none was to be found nearer than a river "far away" in the north-east.

This account by no means lessened our fears for the poor fellows of whom we were in search, and led us to determine on leaving the party here, and making a forced march of two or three days to the north-west with the smallest possible supplies, in the hope of reaching the spot where the absentees had been left by Woods, and which we supposed to be the vicinity of Jurieu Bay.

SUCCEEDS IN FINDING THEIR TRACES.

Previous however to putting this plan into execution, it was considered advisable to visit the beach again, fifteen or sixteen miles distant, on doing which next morning, with Mr. Spofforth and Warrup, we had the satisfaction to find the feet-marks of five men on the sand, taking a southerly direction. Warrup having p.r.o.nounced them to be without doubt the footsteps of white men, and not more than two or three days old, we followed them eagerly along the sh.o.r.e for a mile, and then came to an empty cask that had been washed on sh.o.r.e, together with several broken bottles and a stone jar. On further examination part of the head of the cask was found much cut with a knife, as if used for a plate, and near the extinct embers of a small fire lay the bones of a fish, which Warrup concluded had been picked on the morning of the previous day. Rejoiced at having now got upon the right track, and being unwilling to lose time by following it up from this spot, we took a good look round and returned to our camp at Bookernyup by sunset, from whence we next morning started early in a southerly direction, took up safely everything we had concealed on the Moore River, and shortly after dark had completed 24 miles to a place called Kadjelup, where we halted on some deep pools similar to those at Barrumbur.

Breakfasting early on the 15th, the baggage was despatched forward to Neergabby, and at daybreak Mr. Spofforth, Kinchela (a private of the 21st regiment) and Warrup accompanied me on horseback to the beach, which we found eleven miles off, but to our great disappointment a very high tide had totally obliterated all marks from the sand and left us in perplexity and doubt. Concluding however that the missing party must be in advance of us, and that they could not fail to observe the papers which had been offered to their notice at the mouth of the Garban River, we turned our steps that way; left a paper of directions in the event of their being behind us, and carefully examined both beach and sandhills, as well as the country immediately in rear of them. Twelve miles brought us to the mouth of the river, and there we found everything as we had placed it--not a mark near the beach except the footsteps of the native dog prowling about the sandhills, and nothing which could lead to a belief that the spot had been visited since we last left it. Somewhat disappointed, although rejoicing in having now hemmed the unfortunate absentees up into a narrow limit, within which we knew they MUST be wandering towards Perth, we joined our party at Neergabby shortly after dark, and observed on our way the traces of five natives who were confidently said by Warrup to be Perth natives, sent to look after us with intelligence. They had come along the coast from the south as far as the mouth of the river, and had struck inland to the south-east on their return. The conclusions of this intelligent lad on the occasion were afterwards found to be strictly correct, even to the names of the men who composed the party.

PROVIDENTIAL DISCOVERY OF THEM.

The early morning of the 16th found us all in busy preparation for the day's proceedings and relying with reasonable confidence on a successful issue to our exertions. The remainder of the party were sent back with one horse to Kadjelup, whilst my indefatigable companion Mr. Spofforth accompanied me, with Kinchela and the two natives and four horses, to resume our examination of the beach to the north. Fifteen miles in a north-west direction brought us to the desired spot, but still no sign was apparent of its having been visited by any human being since ourselves; we however commenced a close examination to the northward, and at the end of a mile and a half had the infinite satisfaction of falling in with three of the missing party, in the persons of Ruston, Stiles, and Clotworthy, who had formed a portion of the wrecked boats' crews.

THEIR MISERABLE CONDITION.

The state of distress and exhaustion in which they were found on the beach was truly pitiable and moving. With scarcely strength to drag one foot after the other they had marched about a mile and a half that morning until they encountered the bold rocky projection of land at which we discovered them, and the pa.s.sing of which they had given up as utterly hopeless from want of sufficient strength to climb over it. Having been three days without water except their own and the seawater, the former of which they had saved in their canteens, and emptied out before us, and their only food being such nourishment as they could obtain from chewing a coa.r.s.e rushy plant which grew about high-water mark, it cannot be matter of surprise that they were almost frantic after water, and that the portions of it which we sparingly administered to them, mixed with a little brandy, were most eagerly seized. Indeed the greatest firmness and forbearance were necessary on our part to prevent the unfortunate sufferers from committing fatal excesses. They declared their extremity to have been so great that no chance had appeared to them of surviving the next awful night, or of getting a foot beyond their present position; and, to his credit be it said, one of them* had been on his knees only ten minutes before they were rescued, supplicating with uplifted hands that aid and a.s.sistance which had thus, through Divine Providence, been so opportunely afforded them.

(*Footnote. Ruston.)

SEARCH FOR MR. SMITH.

In answer to our anxious enquiries respecting Mr. Walker and Mr. Smith we learnt that the former, being much the strongest of the party, had, at their request, made the best of his way towards Perth ten days since, in order to send them out a.s.sistance, and that Mr. Smith, having been totally unable to proceed with them any further, had remained behind, in a dying state, four days ago. Touched by this distressing intelligence, and sensibly alive to the value of time, we lost not a moment in lifting our three light weights on our horses, and by supporting them in their seats conveyed them over the sandhills to the more level s.p.a.ce behind, where sufficient brushwood was scattered about for maintaining a fire.

Here Mr. Spofforth kindly undertook their charge, while I should proceed with Kinchela and Warrup in search of poor Smith.

Ruston having expressed himself very anxious to accompany us, and fearing that we might not otherwise accomplish our object, after receiving some suitable refreshment, he was mounted, and we all set off at as quick a pace as he could manage. At the end of three miles a good view of the coast to the northward was opened to us from the summit of a rising ground, and Ruston pointed out, at the distance of 24 miles, an island near which he said young Smith had been left. As this was far beyond the six or seven miles of which they had at first spoken, and totally precluded the possibility of my returning that night with the water-kegs which I had taken to be filled at some wells which they had seen in the vicinity, I relinquished all idea of proceeding, while the sun was then touching the horizon, and we accordingly rejoined Mr. Spofforth and his charge. We were now perfectly satisfied of the wandering inconsistency in the conversation of the three rescued men, who were evidently to a considerable extent delirious or light-headed. Being too sore in body and excited in mind to admit much sleep to their a.s.sistance, they were full of their expressions of thankfulness for their timely deliverance, and at length terminated a long and weary night.

DISCOVERY OF HIS BODY.

The morrow's dawn found me on my way with Kinchela and Warrup to search for poor Smith, while Mr. Spofforth proceeded with the three rescued men and Wyip to join our party at Kadjelup, 12 miles off. At the distance of a mile and a half we found the guns of Mr. Walker and Mr. Smith, which the men had buried among the sandhills from inability to carry them any further. A close scrutiny of the beach brought us, at the end of ten miles, to a spot where Warrup observed the traces of feet in the sand.

Following them up, they ascended a bare sandhill to the height of twelve or fourteen feet, turned short round to the left, and there terminated at the unfortunate object of our search, extended on his back, lifeless, in the midst of a thick bush, where he seemed to have laid himself down to sleep, half-enveloped in his blanket. The poor fellow's last bed appeared to have been selected by himself; and at the distance of three or four yards from him lay all the trifling articles which had const.i.tuted his travelling equipage. These were his wooden canteen, his brown felt hat, and haversack, containing his journal, shoes, tinder, steel, gun-screw, a few small canvas bags which he had used for carrying sh.e.l.lfish, and a small bag with thread, needles, and b.u.t.tons. Life seemed to have been extinct rather more than two days; and from the position of the head, which had fallen considerably below the level of the body, we were led to conclude that a rush of blood into the brain had caused his death, and at last without much suffering.

BURIAL OF MR. SMITH.

With the help of the soldier and Warrup we made a grave with our hands and buried poor Smith deep in a sandhill near the sh.o.r.e, about seventy-six miles to the north of Swan River. Even Warrup, notwithstanding the general apathy of the native character, wept like a child over the untimely fate of this young man, from whom he had formerly received kindness. Smoothing over his solitary bed, and placing at the head of his grave a piece of wood found upon the beach, we pursued our melancholy way half a mile to the northward, where we found the water to which we had been directed by digging 12 inches in the sand at the commencement of a considerable sheet of bare sand, extending at least four miles into the interior. In the course of the evening we rejoined our party on the Moore River. Next day we halted at Kadjelup; and on the 19th we separated at Neergabby once more, Mr. Spofforth to conduct the remainder of the party home with as much celerity as they could travel, whilst I proceeded with Kinchela and Warrup to examine the coast from the mouth of the Moore River for any traces of Mr. Walker, of whose fate we were in total ignorance. By noon of the 22nd we had arrived within 12 miles of Perth without remarking the least trace of the supposed absentee, when we were met by Mr. Hunt the constable with the pleasing intelligence that Mr. Walker had reached Perth on the 9th instant. In the evening we arrived at the same place, and found that Mr. Spofforth had brought in his charge the day before.

CONCLUSION OF THE EXPEDITION.

If Mr. Roe's party had been delayed only a few hours there is every probability that from the debilitated state in which the men were found they would all have perished.

I deeply regretted the death of poor Frederic Smith, who had come out from England expressly for the purpose of joining me, led solely by the spirit of enterprise, and not with any view of settling. He was the most youthful of the party, being only 18 years of age, and thence was less capable than the others of bearing up against long-continued want and fatigue, and the excessive heat of the climate, under which he gradually wasted away until death terminated his sufferings. When aroused by danger or stimulated by a sense of duty he was as bold as a lion, whilst his manner to me was ever gentleness itself, as indeed it was to all.*

(*Footnote. He was the eldest son of Octavius Smith, Esquire, of Thames Bank, and grandson of the late William Smith, Esquire, long known in political life as Member for Norwich.)

Upon the final return of the expedition a desire was expressed by some gentlemen of the colony of Western Australia to remove Mr. Smith's remains to Perth; but upon mature reflection I declined their friendly proposal, preferring rather to let him rest close by the spot where he died, having given the name of my ill-fated friend to a river which hides itself in the sandy plains near where he fell so early a sacrifice to his gallant and enterprising spirit.

CHAPTER 6. SUMMARY OF DISCOVERIES.

RIVERS AND MOUNTAIN RANGES DISCOVERED.

Having now brought the narrative of my expedition along the western sh.o.r.es of Australia to a close I shall here retrace in a brief summary the princ.i.p.al geographical discoveries to which it led.

The country examined during this expedition lies between Cape Cuvier and Swan River, having for its longitudinal limits the parallel of 24 degrees and that of 32 degrees south lat.i.tude, and the expedition combined two objects: the examination and nautical survey of such parts of the coast lying between these limits as were imperfectly known, and the exploration of such parts of the continent as might on examination appear worthy of particular notice.

RIVERS DISCOVERED.

In the course of my explorations ten rivers, which are, when considered with reference to the other known ones of Western Australia, of considerable importance, were discovered, some of them being larger than any yet found in the south-west of this continent; many smaller streams were also found.

The larger rivers I have named:

The Gascoyne, The Murchison, The Hutt, The Bowes, The Buller, The Chapman, The Greenough, The Irwin, The Arrowsmith, The Smith.

Two mountain ranges were discovered; one at the northern extremity of the Darling Range and about thirty miles to the eastward of it, lofty and altogether differing in character from the Darling, which at this point, where its direction is nearly north and south, is called Moresby's Flat-topped Range.

I have taken the liberty of naming this northern range, after her most gracious Majesty, The Victoria Range; and the extensive district of fertile country extending from its base to the sea, and having a length of more than fifty miles in a north and south direction, I have also named the Province of Victoria, trusting that her Majesty will not object to bestow her name upon one of the finest provinces in this her new, vast, and almost unknown empire; and which, protected in its very birth and infancy by her fostering hand, will doubtless ere long attain to no mean destiny among the nations of the earth.

The other range is thrown off in a westerly direction from the Darling Range; it is about forty miles in length from north to south, of a bare, sterile, and barren nature, and terminates seaward in Mount Perron and Mount Lesueur; to this range I have given the name of Gairdner's Range: it forms a very important feature in the geography of this part of Australia.