Veganomicon: The Ultimate Vegan Cookbook Part 2

Agar powder/flakes: A magical seaweed that, when boiled in a liquid, forms a kick-a.s.s vegan alternative to gelatin. We feel like we're forever talking about the wonders of agar, but that's a small price to pay for the world to know what they're missing. Fun fact: agar "gelatin" can firm up at room temperature, unlike that stuff made from animal bones (but it will cool faster if refrigerated). Purchase agar in either powdered or flake form. The powder is a little easier to use and considerably more concentrated than the flakes. The flakes should be allowed to soak in the liquid they will be boiled in for about 10 minutes before heating. Agar can be found in well-stocked health food stores or Asian groceries.

Agave nectar: Agave is the majestic cactus used to make tequila of all stripes in Mexico. And it just happens that the sap (before distilling) is a tasty, syrupy stuff that's sweeter than sugar and entirely agreeable in dressings, drinks, desserts, and baked goods. Not to make any revolutionary health claims, but it seems that some people with certain sugar intolerances can handle agave nectar with ease. More and more regular supermarkets are carrying agave these days, but if yours doesn't, try a health food store.

Baking powder and baking soda: The wonder twins of chemical leaveners that are the key to success with vegan baked goods. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is an alkali ingredient that releases leavening carbon dioxide when it is combined with moisture. Baking powder is baking soda plus an acid salt (such as cream of tartar). When double-acting baking powder is combined with an acidic ingredient (such as vinegar or lemon juice), you get the chemical reaction that makes your cakes and m.u.f.fins rise, first when wet meets dry and again when the batter goes into the oven. Are you still awake? Have fresh boxes in your pantry at all times.

Extracts: Vanilla extract, the Cadillac of extracts, is one you'll most often be using. So it's worth spending a little extra to get the real stuff-stay away from anything labeled "artificial" or "vanillin." It's hard to imagine any baked good without a hint of vanilla; it pulls all the ingredients together and provides that bakery-fresh aroma. If you love to bake, it's recommended that you pad your baking supplies with a few extra extracts. Others we use in this book include almond, anise, hazelnut, and coconut, but it never hurts to add other extracts to your collection, such as lemon, mint, or raspberry.

Liqueurs: Back to the booze again! Liqueurs have been used to flavor all kinds of food for centuries but we mostly use them when baking. Hazelnut and coffee liqueur are our hands-down favorites, the ones we use most often in our dessert recipes. Unless you live in a state where it's legal to sell hard alcohol in the supermarket, you'll find flavored liqueurs at the liquor store.

Maple syrup: Isa calls this "the taste of freedom" because she spends too much time in Vermont. Pure maple syrup can be expensive so we use it sparingly, not just for baking but to give a hint of sweetness where ever needed. But it isn't just for the elite. Budget-minded people like us are never fooled into buying a little expensive bottle of the "grade A" stuff. "Grade B" syrup, a little darker in color but just as flavorful, works just as fine for you, me, and true democracy. Don't forget to refrigerate after opening.

Shortening, nonhydrogenated: We don't use it much in our recipes, but a little bit makes piecrusts flaky and gives cookies a dense, chewy, or shortbreadlike texture. Our favorite brand is Earth Balance.

SUGARS.

Yes, we're guilty of using sugar. While we love whole wheat, sugar-free raisin bran m.u.f.fins as much as the next guy, we also know that life often requires fluffy cupcakes, chocolate chip cookies, and pumpkin crumble pie. Adding sugar is also much cheaper than baking with maple syrup or agave all the time, not to mention far more predicable when it comes to getting the results you want with baked goods. Happily, lots of organic, vegan-friendly sugar options are easily obtainable these days:Granulated sugar: When we call for just "sugar," we always mean granulated. We use interchangeably evaporated cane juice, such as Florida Crystals, or brands that specifically say "beet sugar" on the packaging. "Cane sugar" is typically made with the use of animal products in the form of bone char in the processing, so some vegans avoid it.

Brown sugar: Also called muscovado sugar when it is raw and unrefined, typical brown sugar is refined sugar with a little bit of the mola.s.ses left in or added back to it.

Confectioners' sugar: A combination of finely ground sugar and cornstarch, also called powdered sugar. We use confectioners' sugar to create glazes and frostings.

Turbinado sugar: A coa.r.s.e, unrefined, steam-cleansed sugar that has bigger crystals (for example, Sugar in the Raw) We use turbinado wherever a little crunch is desired. You can also use it in place of regular sugar, but results may vary.

FLOURS AND THICKENING STARCHES.

All-purpose flour: You should always have a sack of unbleached all-purpose flour the size of a small child around. Even if the cupboard is bare, you'll be able to whip up some pancakes or m.u.f.fins. Even though we mostly use flour for baking, we've also been known to use it to thicken sauces and make tempura.

Arrowroot, powder/ground: This fine white powder-ground from the roots of a tropical vine-is ideal for thickening sauces and soups, particularly if a clear, nonopaque appearance is desired. Arrowroot also helps bind and provides a crisp texture in baked goods.

Chickpea flour: A pale yellow flour, sometimes called garbanzo flour, made from ground chickpeas. Look for it in most health food stores and Indian grocery markets where it is called gram flour or besan). Imparts a sweet, nutty, beany (some might even call it "eggy") flavor to baked goods and sauces. It's especially good for crepes and flatbreads.

Cornmeal: We use it in some recipes to add a little crunch, particularly to baked goods. And having some around in case of a corn bread emergency is not a bad idea.

Cornstarch: Also used to thicken, at half the price of other starches. Plus, it adds crispiness and structure to baked goods.

Tapioca flour: Our starch of choice for thickening custards and fruit pies, available at health food stores. This is a fine powder; do not use granular or pearl tapioca as a subst.i.tute.

Whole wheat pastry flour: Whole wheat pastry flour (not to be confused with ordinary whole wheat flour) is just as finely milled as white flour, but not all of the bran and germ has been processed out of it, making it a healthier, more fiberific choice. It is difficult to detect a very significant difference between whole pastry and regular old all-purpose flours, but whole wheat pastry flour can make baked goods a bit more dense and healthier tasting, so we often do an equal mix with all-purpose.

Vital wheat gluten: The naturally occurring protein in wheat that makes it all happen; it's what gives wheat dough its characteristic stretch and makes seitan (sometimes called wheat meat) so toothsome. We also use it in combination with beans in several recipes to give a more chewy, meaty texture. Look for organic brands at your health food store, usually in the baking section. We recommend Arrowhead Mills brand above others if you have a choice.

OILS.

Canola oil: Short for "Canada oil" and formerly known as "rapeseed oil" this oil is now politically correctly named, available most everywhere, and a fine choice for multipurpose use. Mild in flavor, it's perfect for baking and cooking when a neutral-tasting oil is desired. Look for "high-heat" canola oil for use in sauteing and grilling. Canola oil also provides you with a healthy dose of essential omega-3 fatty acids.

What Is a Fatty Acid and Why Is It Essential?

WITHOUT getting into words that we cannot p.r.o.nounce, our bodies need fats, not only to store energy but to absorb vitamins and protect our vital organs from disease (unless you don't consider your brain a vital organ). We naturally produce some of the necessary fats but others need to be obtained from our diet. The very base of our existence, our cells, are largely composed of such fatty acids making these, well, essential!

Coconut oil, refined/unrefined: Poor coconut oil has been typecast in the role of a nutritional bad guy for too long. Nonhydrogenated coconut oil is perfectly healthy consumed in small amounts. We like unrefined oil for its luscious coconut aroma and delicate flavor. It's a favorite of ours when cooking Indian and Southeast Asian inspired cuisine.

Olive oil: There's a reason people have been cultivating this stuff for thousands of years. Olive oil is so good for you, plus its rich, earthy, and fruity flavor is essential in cooking all things Mediterranean and Middle Eastern. We use extra-virgin for almost everything, but the purist might want to use cheaper virgin or blended oils for frying (even though people have been shallow-frying in good olive oils for as long as it's been made, it can be used for longer or deeper frying. The key is to use low to medium heat, never, ever high heat!).

Grapeseed oil: A light, nearly colorless oil made from pressed grape seeds. We love it in salad dressing because it has the thickness and body of olive oil, but a neutral taste. While it isn't an essential thing to have, it should be the first item you purchase once you've decided to broaden your oil horizons. It's a bit pricier than canola oil, but not as expensive as olive oil and it's available in most health food stores and, increasingly in regular old supermarkets.

Peanut oil: Another stock oil in our pantries, peanut oil is a must when cooking many things Asian, as it's often that little touch of authentic flavor that missing from homemade stir-fries and curries. Its high smoke point also makes it perfect for frying.

Toasted sesame oil: We don't usually use this oil to cook with, but it adds a fragrant sesame taste to finished dishes and salad dressings. Regular sesame oil can be subst.i.tuted for toasted but the flavor will not be anywhere as intense.

PANTRY SUNDRIES.

Why say "other stuff" when you could say sundries?

Dried Beans: It's worth making a pot of beans every now and then; we keep on hand the usual suspects that are also listed in the canned section. They're incredibly economical and the flavor is superior to the canned stuff. It's helpful to buy them in bulk and store them in one-pound increments for quick and easy measuring and cooking. Quick-cooking beans such as lentils and split pea are an absolute, economical must for soups during those cold winter months when you're saving up all your money to buy a sled or pay your health insurance. (For information on specific beans, see our bean-cooking section, page 42.) Grains: Ditch that dusty old box of instant rice! We keep a variety of whole grains in airtight jars in our cupboards, and use them in lots and lots of Veganomicon recipes. (See page 37 for how to cook some of our favorites.) Nutritional yeast: Not to be confused with brewer's yeast or any other kind of yeast, "nooch" (as we call it) is great to add an umami (savory) taste to sauces or just to sprinkle on rice and beans. We don't use it in too many Veganomicon recipes because it's hard to find and people tend to love it or hate it. Most commonly, this mustard-colored yeast comes in flake form, and that is what we call for in our recipes. But sometimes you'll find it in powdered form, which is just ground-up flakes. If you can only find the powdered kind, reduce every cup called for by a tablespoon.

Nuts: Always have slivered or sliced almonds and walnuts on hand for pesto and to create texture in ca.s.seroles and sauces. Nuts are also great toasted in salads, breaded on tofu, and of course for all kinds of baked goods and desserts. If you are going to be storing them like a human-squirrel for months and months, keep them in the freezer. Other nuts we like to have around: cashews, hazelnuts, pecans, peanuts (which are actually botanical beans), and pine nuts.

Seeds: Any seed that goes on a bagel should also have a place in your pantry. Toasted sesame and black sesame seeds go a long way toward providing flavor to our dishes, as well as adding drama to the presentation. We also keep flaxseeds in the refrigerator, either in ground or whole form, for baking and sometimes for sprinkling onto our oatmeal.

Pastas: Keep a few boxes around of pastas of all shapes and sizes. We don't need to remind you what it's good for! (See our pasta section, page 188, for different types that we like.)

WINES AND VINEGARS.

A snotty person once said that you shouldn't cook with any wine you wouldn't drink. We say "Pfft!" The wines you'll find in any supermarket marked simply "cooking wine" are just fine. But whether you use the cheap stuff or a $30 Australian Riesling splurge, a shot or two of wine can elevate that saute from just homemade to near restaurant quality. There's really nothing like wine when it comes to drawing out the flavors of seared and sauteed vegetables (particularly mushrooms), herbs, and oils. We use white wine most of the time, but red and sherry are good choices to have around, too. For the straight-edgers out there, we don't mean to alienate you. Nonalcoholic wine (and beer) or vegetable broth can be subst.i.tuted in these recipes. Although deglazing a pan (page 19) just isn't the same without it, it can be done. Also included here are a few vinegars that we use often.

Cooking wine, red and white: Like we say, cooking wine doesn't have to be anything fancy, even that box o' wine that shows up at ironic trailer-trash parties in the hip section of town will do. Just make sure it is dry, which just means not sweet. A bottle of cooking sherry will also take you places and adds that particular sweet, mellow flavor some recipes just call out for.

Mirin: A j.a.panese rice cooking wine. It has a thick, almost syrupy texture. A little goes a long way in adding a deep, complex flavor and aroma to stir-fries, soups, stews, and marinades. It's a little pricier than most fruit-based cooking wines, but nothing quite tastes like it. We recommend steering clear of any mirin with added sugar, salt, or other flavorings.

Apple cider vinegar: We use apple cider vinegar in our baked goods because of its mellow taste and acidity. Apple cider vinegar not only reacts with baking soda to help things to rise, it also makes our baked goods tender.

Balsamic vinegar: We don't douse our foods in it, but the deep, winelike taste of balsamic vinegar works wonders in marinades or to pull together a bowl of soup.

Brown rice vinegar: A very mild vinegar that's great in Asian food and nice to know in salad dressings.

Wine vinegar: Red wine, white wine, or champagne, this is your go-to vinegar for adding tangy zing to savory foods and sauces.

A Word about Vegetable Broth MANY of our recipes call for vegetable broth. The store-bought stuff that comes in cartons tastes great but is ridiculously expensive, not to mention a pain for us non-weight trainers-it makes our shopping bags so heavy! We like to make our own broth (page 142) and freeze it, but this isn't always practical. Enter bouillon cubes, concentrated broth, and broth powders. Find one that you like the taste of, preferably something with low or no salt and no MSG. Add to your recipe when it is simmering, usually two cubes or a tablespoon per four cups of water, or mix it with water beforehand.

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT.

All you really need to cook is a knife, a pot, and a big spoon. But this is the twenty-first century, after all, and we're often taken in by s.h.i.+ny new things, so we have way more equipment stuffed into our tiny kitchen than it can possibly handle. Rather than regale you with stories about how our lives have been changed by our two-chamber automatic ice-cream maker, we've compiled a little info about the basic tools we use every day. Gadgets are great fun, but our mango slicer mostly collects dust. We're beginning to think it might be useless.

Here's some consumer wisdom we've had drilled into our heads: if you can't afford to buy a quality, well-made kitchen tool, you may be better off without it. Sure, you can buy a peeler for 99 cents at the everything-for-a-dollar store, but will it take the skin off a b.u.t.ternut squash? No. Better to save up the $8.95 you'll need for that st.u.r.dy all-purpose one the kitchen supply store sells. It'll last forever. The same goes for pots and pans and knives and mixers and whatever else. A caveat, though: more expensive does not necessarily mean better! Since this is the technological age, weed through consumer reviews on such shopping sites as Amazon.com to see which ones are best. Thrift stores and flea markets and stoop sales (or tag sales for you non-New Yorkers) are also great places to find kitchen stuff, if you don't mind the questionable provenance.

CHOPPING AND PREP TOOLS.

Because having a stove is great if you intend to cook something, but unless you plan on living on whole boiled potatoes, you're going to need just a few prep tools.

Knives

We know it's been said many times, many ways, but the only knife you need is a good chef's knife. Period. If you're still chopping vegetables with a sad little steak knife you borrowed from your mom's cutlery tray, stop it this second and go out and buy a real knife. A good knife has a solid feel, comfortable grip, and can be sharpened when it gets dull. Dull knives are dangerous! They slip off tomato skins and cut your finger. Buy the best knife you can afford; decent knives can be purchased for under $30 at discount stores, but if you've had a sudden windfall of cashola it doesn't hurt to drop a Benjamin on a really spiffy one.

A Few Basic Knife Skills The more you chop, dice, and slice, the better your knife skills will get. It helps to know the correct way to hold a knife, but really it's practice and intuition that makes almost perfect. We say "almost perfect" because the skills are constantly evolving and we're always figuring out new stuff and what works for us. That said, it doesn't hurt to have a little practical guidance, and since minced garlic and diced onions are included in most all of our recipes, here are a few tips for getting them prepped quickly while keeping your fingers intact.

Garlic Wet your hands and your knife before beginning. That will keep the garlic from sticking to your fingers and the knife. Break off a few cloves and lay your knife blade squarely over a clove. Use the palm of your hand to give the clove a whack. That should crush the clove and loosen the skin. The papery skin should slip off easily once it's been whacked. Discard the skins and continue smas.h.i.+ng as many cloves as you need.

Once you have skinned all the cloves, bunch them up on the cutting board. The quickest and easiest way to mince is to use a seesaw rocking motion. Use your writing hand to grasp the blade and use your other hand to rest on top of the blade to provide balance. Rock the knife back and forth steadily, stopping once in a while to bunch all the garlic up again, because it will spread out as you are mincing. When you have this method perfected you should be able to mince a whole bulb of garlic in two or three minutes.

Onions First, slice off the top and bottom of the onion. Then slice the onion in half lengthwise. Now the skin should come off easily. Once the skin is removed, place the onion cut side down. With your fingers safely curled in, grasp the onion at the bottom to hold it in place. Slice the onion widthwise, trying to keep the slices intact. Then turn the onion and slice lengthwise.

Isa swears that if she breathes through her mouth, she never cries from cutting up onions. Try it for yourself and see if she's lying and crazy or not.

Now that you have a good knife, you'd better learn how to use it. You could take some cla.s.ses or watch a few hundred hours of Emeril (say what you will, that man can chop!), or you can just think about how to cut something beforehand instead of hacking away w.i.l.l.y-nilly. Let the knife do the work-it wants to!

Besides the chef's knife, we only really bother with a serrated-bladed bread knife and a little, sharp paring knife. The bread knife is great for slicing bread, of course, but it's also a miracle worker for slicing very soft tomatoes and sus.h.i.+ nori rolls. The little paring knife can come in handy for reckoning with sprouting potatoes or making radish roses, if for some reason you go insane and need to make those. You can go with slightly lesser quality when it comes to purchasing these guys.

Cutting Board

We don't want to hear about those of you out there chopping on dinner plates or directly on the countertop. Any official cutting board will do . . . oh, except those gla.s.s ones; no one wants to hear a knife "clink" on gla.s.s, what a bad idea. We prefer wood over plastic, ourselves, and particularly fancy those new bamboo cutting boards. They're tres chic, tougher than Thelma and Louise, and totally renewable (since that bamboo grows like a weed).

How to Get Knife Skills Lessons for Free HIGH-END housewares stores usually have a well-educated staff working their way through cooking school. And the wonderful part is that they are usually bored out of their minds! When you are shopping around for your expensive chef 's knife, employees will gladly take the time to demonstrate the proper way to hold the knife. In fact, when they see your wobbly and awkward grasp they may even feel compelled to help you, like Mother Teresas of the cooking world. Often they have a green pepper or an onion hanging around for this very purpose. So go ahead and hop from store to store, gathering knowledge as you go. It's cheaper than a degree from the Culinary Inst.i.tute.

HOW TO STOP YOUR CUTTING BOARD FROM SLIDING.