Addresses & Papers / Collectanea Part 8

L'Estrange, were placed in me between the years 1593, or earlier, and 1738, and they were renovated and restored in 1870, at the expense of Messrs. Browne, Bridgman, and Firth, paris.h.i.+oners of St. Giles. (One of these bells is what is called a _Gabriel_ Bell-the "Angel Gabriel brought the good tidings to the Virgin Mary.") And think for a moment what phases of life these bells have taken part in during all these hundreds of years. I find that since 1538, when our parish registers begin, some 2,524 entries of _marriage_ have been made in them. And it is reasonable to suppose that at a fair proportion of these, especially in earlier times, my bells have rung out their merry chimes, and in their special language have wished all joy and happiness to the newly wedded pairs.

You remember how Byron speaks of this: "And all went merry as a marriage bell."

On the other hand, during the same period, or, rather, up to 1856, when interments in the Churchyard ceased by Act of Parliament, _i.e._ in 318 years, nearly ten thousand (9,770, as roughly counted) entries of _burials_ here are made in the parish register books. And it is almost certain that one of my bells has announced first the fact of the death, and then that of the mournful ceremony of interment, in each of these cases. Just think, as I do, of all these ten thousand dead lying at my foot, waiting, as Baring Gould has so beautifully said, for the "Resurrection morning," when "soul and body meet again." Such an acc.u.mulation of mortal remains in so limited a s.p.a.ce may well arouse much and solemn reflection. How well a Suffolk poet reverently describes such a disused graveyard as mine now is, where he says:-

"The gathered ashes of long centuries rest; A few _white_ tombstones and a few _dim-gray_, Mark names that have not yet quite pa.s.sed away."

Nor can I fail to quote to you Gray's beautiful words, so applicable to such a disused churchyard:-

"Hark! how the sacred calm, that breathes around, Bids every fierce tumultuous pa.s.sion cease, In still small accents whispering from the ground, A grateful earnest of eternal peace."

The graveyard of St. Giles, which lies beneath and around me, is, as I have already said, no longer used for burials. It is quite full and crowded with graves and many memorial tombstones. The names upon these, as far as legible, are fully and completely given in the book which has been published by a paris.h.i.+oner of mine, {106} upon the "Parish of St.

Giles."

It is historically interesting to know that the burial registers, by the increased number of interments in some of the long past years, point unmistakably to the prevalence in Norwich at those times of the dread Pestilence or Plague, which is recorded as having ravaged the city from time to time. Thus, in 1603, no less than 112 persons were buried here; and in 1666, some 79-both of these "Plague years"-instead of a normal average of twenty or thirty. As you may suppose, I (the Tower) shared acutely in the distress which then reigned in the city, intensified as it was to me by the fact of three or four burials occasionally taking place here in the same day. In some other years, an increase of burials may probably have arisen from this place of mortal rest having been a favourite one, and, therefore, selected for the interment of some who had not been resident in the parish. This was certainly so in the fifty years preceding the closure of the churchyard, when fifty, sixty, or seventy were often annually interred here.

But to return to my bells. The perpetuation of the old custom of ringing each night what is called the _Curfew Bell_ in my Tower is well known to us all. This Curfew ringing is now an anachronism, but it doubtless was a great boon at the time of its foundation, seeing that so many legacies were left in various places, as here, for the purpose of having a "Curfew" rung each night in perpetuity.

My Curfew Bell, inst.i.tuted and endowed in 1457, by Mr. John Colston, and who was buried in St. Giles's Church, has now rung continuously for some 450 years. And although some people may think this evening tolling of a bell for a quarter of an hour a nuisance, it has in this particular case this merit, that it acts, or has done, as a sort of daily almanac, seeing that the day of the month is told at the end of the quarter of an hour's ringing, each evening, by a number of strokes on a different bell, corresponding to the day of the month.

The name "Curfew," you doubtless know to be derived from the French _Couvre-feu_, or cover fire. And also that the custom in olden times of a public ringing of a bell, or sounding a horn, for the putting out of fires and retiring into houses for the night, arose from the out-door dangers of those less civilised times, and from the inflammable nature of many of the wooden and thatched houses then existing. One such fire in Norwich (in 1507) is said to have destroyed seven hundred houses, including many in my own parish. Who does not know Gray's lines on this Curfew custom?

"The Curfew tolls the knell of parting day, The lowing herd winds slowly o'er the lea; The ploughman homeward plods his weary way, And leaves the world to darkness and to me."

And we doubtless also remember Longfellow's beautiful verses on this old custom:-

"Solemnly, mournfully, Dealing its dole, The Curfew Bell Is beginning to toll.

"Cover the embers, And put out the light; Toil comes with the morning, And rest with the night.

"Dark grow the windows, And quenched is the fire; Sound fades into silence; All footsteps retire.

"No voice in the chambers, No sound in the hall; Sleep and oblivion Reign over all!"

With all this, and what I have now said, I think I may claim that I-the Tower-have fully discharged the general duty of public usefulness, and am a great public benefactor. My beacon pail is no longer required; but by my weather-c.o.c.k I tell the direction of the wind; by my clock I tell the time of day; and by the final strokes of my curfew bell at night, I act as an almanac, and tell the day of the month-for the benefit not only of my neighbours, but to the great mult.i.tude of the pa.s.sers-by. {108} And let it not be forgotten that all this implies not only the discharge of public duty, but also the expenditure of money, necessary to keep the various arrangements for these in correct and working order-money which has to be provided by the parish of St. Giles.

Opinions as to the desirability of the ringing of the _Church Bells_ in towns differ, as we know, considerably. And every now and then we read a letter in a newspaper in condemnation of them. But I believe that those who think thus are in a very small minority. I have said how well they emphasize such occasions as weddings, and funerals. And I think they most appropriately add to the expression of public rejoicing on such occasions as the election of a new Mayor, or a royal visit, or a royal anniversary-or especially on the eve of such a great Christian festival as Christmas or Easter. But beyond all this, I (the Tower) consider that they are in the best sense public music, and that when well rung this music is of a very high order indeed. Who does not recognise the grandeur of the great twelve-bell peal of St. Peter Mancroft, as rung by the skilled ringers of that church, or the solemnity imparted to a public mourning by the m.u.f.fled peal occasionally rung, on the departure from this world of some great local or national citizen?

In country villages I know that the possession of a good peal of church bells is usually very highly appreciated, and the practice of the ringing cannot be otherwise than an excellent musical training for the young men of the parish.

It is curious how little regard _Jackdaws_ pay to the noise of clanging bells. In my tower, as elsewhere, they habitually build their nests, and rear their young, apparently quite free from alarm at the noise. From their constant selection of church towers as breeding places, may we not suppose that these birds have ears for music, or may even practice singing amongst their family parties, to the accompanying chimes?

I have windows on all four of my sides, and until lately (1866), when the Church was so thoroughly restored, I had an eye in my lower eastern portion which enabled me to view the changes which have taken place in the interior of the Church. Long, long ago, I noted the dilapidation of the Chancel, and its final demolition and removal (in 1581), on a bargain being made by which the parish was allowed to take all the remaining lead, stone, and other materials (for some parochial charity) belonging to it, on condition that the Dean and Chapter were no longer to be held liable for its repair. This _Chancel_ I had the pleasure of seeing rebuilt in 1866, mainly through the beneficence of Rev. Canon Ripley, then inc.u.mbent of the vicarage, when also the Church was finely restored, and reseated.

You are aware that the years 19034 represent the five-hundredth anniversary of the giving of a Mayor to the City of Norwich. Several St.

Giles's inhabitants have held this important office, as well as that of Sheriff, during all those centuries, but I will only specially mention the names of _Richard Purdaunce_ and of _Robert Baxter_, who were very early Mayors, in 1420 and 1424 respectively, and who were interred in the nave of this Church, with bra.s.ses over their tombs. These still remain, and are of considerable interest as showing the costumes of the period.

And now as to the parish of St. Giles itself, in which I stand, I cannot but recall with satisfaction the large number of residents who have been in their day most important and influential citizens in various departments of life. As public men I will only mention the names of a few such departed neighbours whose careers and public services I have watched. Let us only recall the names (given alphabetically) in public life of such examples as Baxter, Beevor, Bolingbroke, Cadge, Chapman, Churchman, Cole, Crosse, Day, Foster, Herring, Kinghorn, Johnson, Lubbock, Offley, Purdaunce, Ranking, Rigby, Suffield, Taylor, Wilkins; or as ornaments of the literary and artistic world, such names as Brand, Blomefield, Borrow, Crossgrove, Charlotte Elizabeth, Daniel, Ninham-and now we may add that of Bateman. This, you will agree with me, is a goodly list, and marks out St. Giles's parish as having been one of the most important residential districts in the city, and as having largely contributed to its welfare and general reputation. And in this regard we may well regret that so many of the fine parish residences have been or are being absorbed by public companies or other bodies; and that in consequence, the most actively important men of the city are gradually being driven to other and more distant localities. And we may even note here how the neighbouring and almost historical old "Norfolk Hotel" has been swept away, and its site occupied by a modern variety theatre.

Further, as a sign of the times, I may mention to you a spot in St.

Giles's Street, situated behind "Mortimer's Hotel," which was long known as "_Mack's Yard_." Mr. Mack was for a long period the enterprising proprietor of some carrier waggons, which made a weekly journey to and from London, carrying parcels and goods. This was in the days when the stage coaches to London occupied two days in the journey; and when the starting of these coaches, as well as of Mack's waggons, was an interesting incident of Norwich life.

So much for my immediate personal relations. Let me now look a little further around and beyond me.

No doubt, almost everyone present this evening, when crossing Mousehold Park, or when pa.s.sing along the roads on the outskirts of the city, will have noted how I-the Tower-stand out more prominently than any other object than the Castle or the Cathedral spire. And, on the other hand, those of our younger citizens who may have ascended to my summit, can bear testimony to the wide and expanded views from it of the surrounding country. In fact, I command a view, not only of much of the city, but also of the neighbourhood for many miles around. And this commanding position has enabled me to note most of those great changes, and improvements, which have taken place-by slow degrees and with many fluctuations-in the city generally. And, of course, I have keenly felt the change in my own position which the recent spread of the city all around me has produced. Not so very long ago I was situated in its very outskirts, and very close to the boundary City Walls. Now, I am almost in the heart of Norwich, and from my summit I can see the lines of houses extending a mile or more beyond me, and, I fear, detracting by their extent from the conspicuous dignity of the position which I had so long enjoyed.

Of the many more distant but important Norwich events of the past centuries, which from my lofty position I have been enabled to witness, I will only mention two or three which have specially impressed me, thus:-

In King Edward VI.'s reign, I was able to note many of the incidents connected with Kett's Rebellion.

A little later, I saw the reflection of the fires at the Lollard's pit, when Bilney and others were there burnt for their religious opinions.

I saw the processions attending the visits to Norwich of Queen Elizabeth, and of King Charles II. And you will remember that it was on this latter occasion that our distinguished citizen, Sir Thomas Browne, to whom we have so recently erected a statue, received the honour of Knighthood from his Sovereign.

Then again, I was cognizant of the blowing down of the Cathedral spire, during a great storm, in 1601; and of the spire of the St. Andrew's Hall tower.

And, shall I say, with how much regret in quite later times, I witnessed the riotous and disgraceful scenes which took place at some of the Parliamentary elections held in Norwich-followed, as we know, by the exciting but not too pleasant "Chairing" of the elected candidates.

In my more immediate neighbourhood I have watched the foundation (in 1714) and the subsequent career of that beautiful example of Christian charity, the well-known Bethel Hospital for the poorer cla.s.s of insane patients. We all know that in those earlier times, simply to remove from the general community and to house those suffering from mental derangement, was all that was known to be able to be done for those thus afflicted. But I have been charmed to note from my window-eyes how greatly their treatment has been improved in latter times, and to watch with pathetic interest the great changes which have been made, and are still continually being made, for the comfort and recreation and general welfare of the patients in this beneficent inst.i.tution. {113}

Very numerous and historically important are the changes and advances and improvements which have taken place in our city during the last 150 years, and which I have witnessed from my lofty summit.

In 1770, I saw the first _Norfolk and Norwich Hospital_ built, and I have seen the old building replaced (in 18791881) by a larger and handsomer structure.

In 1792, I saw our _St. Giles's Gate_, along with many others, taken down and removed; whilst, in 1867, I saw much of the neighbouring _City Wall_ demolished, only a small piece of it being left in the Chapel Field Road, and in the adjacent "Duck Lane."

You will remember that this defensive wall was built around the city between the years 1294 and 1319, and was broken down between the St.

Stephen's and St. Giles's Gates by Earl Warwick's army, in the time of Kett's Rebellion.

Then I have seen numerous churches and chapels, factories, and other large buildings, arise in various parts of the city-these latter including the Norwich Union Workhouse, the Jenny Lind Infirmary, and (in the far distance) the h.e.l.lesdon Asylum.

I have also witnessed the laying-out of the new Norwich Cemetery, and its more recent enlargement. And at my very foot I have noted the erection of our Volunteer Drill Hall, and the removal of the old City Gaol. The closure of this latter, and of the Castle as a prison, and their replacement by a single model prison on Mousehold Hill, marking the advances of the times and the progressive development of political humanity.

Of the grand Castle Museum, which is in my full view, I need say nothing.

Its influence in spreading knowledge, and in developing the higher and better faculties of the mind, are obvious to all. I am pleased to learn of the interest taken in it by the public, as shown by the visiting of it by the more than 100,000 persons who annually resort to it.

If I do not weary you, I would now like to claim your attention for a very few minutes to what may fairly be termed my "Home Circle," that is, to the events which I have witnessed immediately around me in _recent_ times. Several of these have been closely connected with the neighbouring "_Chapel Field_," formerly a real and open field, but now a charming recreation garden, and one of the beauty spots of our city, with the present handsome palisading around it, erected in 1866. The avenues of trees which adorn this field are, or were, one of its great features.

And it is worth noting that Norwich history relates that the main west avenue was planted in 1746 by Sir Thomas Churchman, then a resident in St. Giles's parish and an important citizen. The ordinary age of elm trees is (I believe) not greatly more than a century and a-half, and consequently some of these trees have decayed in their branches or trunks. But until a few months ago a long row of the elms towered up to their eighty or ninety feet of height, in great beauty and apparent vigour. I need not say with what pain I looked down upon the process of lopping and topping which was carried out upon these, or how I grieved over such a dire necessity for this operation as was alleged to exist.

One other example of tree grandeur existed until the other day in the northern avenue, namely, a splendid specimen of the _Aspen Poplar_, towering nearly one hundred feet high, and an object of extreme beauty to all who could appreciate such arboreal grandeur. Even so long ago as 1841 this tree was figured by _Grigor_ in his work on "The Remarkable Trees of Norfolk," as a fine example of this poplar. And we may well feel how the further sixty-three years of its life had added to its size, its dignity, and its grandeur. I greatly regret that since the late great gale it has been thought necessary to remove several of its upper branches, and so destroy all its grandeur. But the old line, "Woodman, spare that tree" for the greatest possible length of time was, I hope, fully in the minds of those who presided over its fate.

The splendid _Horse-Chestnut_ tree near the centre of the field is familiar to us all, and I have watched its growth and circular uniformity with pleasure and interest.

This Chapel Field, as you may know, takes it name from a Chapel of St.

Mary, which formerly existed on the site of the present Theatre and High School buildings. At that time the ground was really an open field; and it seems to have been acquired by the Corporation in the sixteenth century.

Probably few, and perhaps none, of those present in this room, can remember as I do the big water reservoir of the proprietors of the Norwich Water Works of that date, which formerly existed in Chapel Field, near its centre, on ground leased by them from the Corporation. This reservoir was large, nearly three hundred yards in circ.u.mference, and had on its north side a tower, into which water was forced to gain height for supplying the higher portions of the city. It remained here from 1792 until 1852, just sixty years, when the lease of the ground was surrendered, the works demolished, and the new and enlarged reservoirs of the present Norwich Water Works Company, at Lakenham, were subst.i.tuted.

I may mention here a rumour which reached me, and which I have no doubt was true, that in April, 1852, the Corporation of Norwich proposed to place the statue of Lord Nelson, which had just then been executed for Norwich, "on an elegant fountain pedestal in the centre of this reservoir," which was then about to be disused. {117}