Journal Of A Visit To Constantinople And Some Of The Greek Islands In The Spring And Summer Of 1833 Part 6

[Sidenote: RUSSIAN CAMP.] I have already mentioned the slight offered to the captain of the Actaeon, when he went to visit the Russian camp; and that the commander-in-chief had gone on board to make an apology, and had sent tickets for the officers to enable them to enter without future difficulty and trouble. To-day we espied the amba.s.sador's boat coming over, and, on nearing the head-quarters, it deposited Lady Ponsonby and a party, who also went and made an inspection of this formidable army.

On going to the palace to dinner, I learnt that they had been much gratified: the officers were attentive; the tents comparatively clean, much cleaner and more comfortable than they expected to have found them; but the men were rather badly clothed, and looked shabby.

[Sidenote: RUSSIAN INSOLENCE.] The amba.s.sador informed me that, in order to ascertain whether the American consul of Beiroot, had not made some unintentional mistake in his story respecting the contemptuous treatment offered by the Russians to a party whom they supposed to be English, he had recently sent the pilot of the Actaeon, in plain clothes, on board the admiral's s.h.i.+p. The experiment, however, only served to elicit a still more flagrant and unequivocal manifestation of their rancorous insolence; for when George approached within hail, he received orders to "sheer off instantly, as he was very well known." He replied that he was not an Englishman; but that availed nothing: "Be off!" was the order of the day. I need not add, that Lord Ponsonby was now quite satisfied of the truth of the story; yet, though he felt highly indignant, and has manifested on all occasions the most earnest desire to s.h.i.+eld us from the injurious treatment experienced from these northern barbarians, what could he do? The Russians would, of course, disclaim any intentional insult; say it was all a mistake, and then repeat the outrage.

[Sidenote: NAMIK PASHA--TAHIR PASHA.] Namik Pasha[15] was at the palace to-day; he professes to be highly gratified with his reception in England, and is quite enthusiastic in his encomiums on Lord Grey, the English ministry, and the ladies. He appears to be a clever, sensible man; and much benefit must arise to this country, from the enlarged views he has no doubt acquired during his sojourn among the more civilised nations of Europe; especially as he is known to have considerable influence with the Sultan. I do not mean politically, for every one here believes he is bribed by Russia; but he will take an active part in improving the manners, customs, and feelings, and in bettering the condition, of his countrymen. Tahir Pasha divides the friends.h.i.+p of the Sultan with him, and will much a.s.sist any plans for the amelioration of the country. He commanded the Turkish fleet at Navarino, and is the best instructed and most intelligent man in the Sultan's service. He converses fluently in several of the European and Oriental languages; and, as I am informed, understands those of antiquity. The Sultan has appointed him general of cannoneers, and governor of Galata and Pera; while Namik holds the important post of commander of all the fortresses and batteries on the Bosphorus, on which he sails to and fro in a very beautiful caique, manned by three rowers, who pull up and down the current at an astonis.h.i.+ng rate. His boat, and that of Dr.---- (I forget his name), are the most elegant on this stream.

[Sidenote: EXCURSION TO THE BLACK SEA.] _Sat.u.r.day, 15th._--It being arranged that the steam-boat should make an excursion into the Black Sea, some of the officers and myself went down to Stamboul this morning, with the intention of joining the party; and we expected that a great many Perotes would have accompanied us; but not above six were on board: as it was, the deck proved to be sufficiently crowded. The boat was detained one hour after all the pa.s.sengers had arrived, in waiting for his Highness the Prince; who being at length on board, off we started.

As her paddles revolved, the caiques of the Turks began to dance on the waves, much to the terror of their owners. On approaching the new kiosk, the Francesco stopped to salute the Sultan, who was sitting in one of the bow-windows with several of his suite about him, watching us through an English spy-gla.s.s; and we could discern that the apartment was fitted up in the Parisian style. A battery near the palace answered our salute; and the Sultan having retired, we started again. In that portion of the building appropriated to the harem, some females were observed peeping at us through the blinds; but none of the lineaments, not even the eyes, could be distinguished, the mere contour of the figure being all that was discernible; so those who were prepared to boast of having exchanged glances with the Sultan's dark-eyed beauties, were entirely disappointed.

On nearing the Actaeon, the Captain came on board, and we lay to for some time, while a boat was despatched to that vessel for a Russian flag, and when it arrived we steamed on again. Another salute was fired as we pa.s.sed the Russian admiral, which he was so long in returning, that it was supposed they did not think our boat worth replying to. However, it came at last, with a bad grace, though better late than never.

[Sidenote: THE SYMPLEGADES.] After sailing past the old ruined Genoese castles, which have been restored by some French engineer, we entered the Sea of Storms. Near the coast, which is low and sandy, in the direction of Rivaz, arise the "blue Symplegades," those fatal rocks, about which so many fables had been narrated by the ancient poets; and I expected to behold vast ma.s.ses of rugged cliffs: but certainly these _geese_ have been magnified into _swans_; for there was nothing to inspire terror on the present occasion, though it is possible the waves may break violently on them during a storm, and perhaps a Turkish vessel might be reminded of _Davy Jones_. [Sidenote: COLOUR OF THE BLACK SEA.]

We returned after having gone about three miles out, and satisfied some of our _learned_ a.s.sociates that, although the element on which we were sailing was called the _Black_ Sea, the water was not in reality of that colour: some of the more hardened unbelievers, however, aware that experiment is the test of truth, actually insisted on having a bucket of it hauled up, and examined in a tumbler, before they would renounce their preconceived opinions.

A long discussion now arose, whether the boat should remain until the next evening at Buyukdere, or proceed onwards to Galata, after landing those who wished to disembark at the former place. After a stormy debate, the first-named proposition was carried by a large majority, a majority decided by the democratic principle of vote by ballot.

Notwithstanding this apparent settlement of the question, the captain changed his mind, and, landing those who were Buyukderotes, he left them to find their way to Stamboul, and obtain lodgings for themselves as they could: rather a difficult thing, by the by; for to-morrow evening the Austrian amba.s.sador gives a grand fete, dinner, ball, and supper to the Prince of Bavaria, who is to review the Russian troops in the morning, and leave Stamboul on Monday. All attempts have failed to procure him an audience of the Sultan, who will not receive him, because, he says, naturally enough, "What has he to do with me, or I with him? He is brother of the King of Greece: granted: but why come to intrude himself here? I will not see him; it can do no good." These were the Sultan's words, in answer to the application.

[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS.] Having landed at Buyukdere, with many of the _Inglesi_, we went to the hotel, a clean, comfortable well-fitted house, with a good cook and good wines. It was very laughable to hear the landlord execrating the Russians. "They never,"

said he, "spend a penny; stingy close fellows, who would eat a tallow candle down to the very end, and leave not a drop for the waiter!" He wished to G.o.d they were at the bottom of the Black Sea, with the English fleet anch.o.r.ed above them. "Then," said he, "we should see the porter corks fly, the tables swim with grog, cigar boxes burst their cedar sides, the cook roast all day, and I be happy in the general scramble: but, alas! there's no such luck nowadays."

After partaking of a few bottles of London porter, we embarked in my caique which had been waiting for me, and away we rowed to Terapia. We dined at the palace, and went to bed early, to be up betimes, and over the water, in order to accompany the Prince at the review. By the by, the splendid lobsters we had for supper must not be forgotten. I never saw such immense sh.e.l.l-fish; any one of them would have satisfied the cravings of an alderman.

[Sidenote: GRAND REVIEW.] _Sunday, 16th._--Our party arrived in time to see the Prince received by a guard of honour. Count Orloff, the general, and a staff of officers, were present, superbly dressed in Polish, Russian, and Turkish uniforms. The guard consisted of one man in full dress, from each regiment, and a bra.s.s trumpet band; and, from what I afterwards observed, it was very evident that the uniform worn on this occasion by each soldier was the only one of the kind belonging to his respective regiment. After inspecting this body, the Prince got on horseback, and we also found horses provided for us all and many to spare, though most of us preferred going on foot.

We first visited the Turkish camp, and then proceeded to that of the Cossacks. A guard of the latter, wild fierce-looking marauders, led the way; then followed the Prince and his staff; and the procession was closed by a troop of Turkish lancers, very odd-looking soldiers, and our party of pedestrians, who managed, by making short cuts, to get before the main body of reviewers. The tents were all whitened, and put in the best possible order for the occasion; and it must be allowed they looked very pretty and comfortable, being surrounded by tall green branches, which were stuck into the ground; so that, in walking between them, we seemed to be moving through a grove of shady trees. Each regiment was drawn out, with its arms piled, and the soldiers were dressed in grey _great-coats_, though it was the hottest day I ever remember to have experienced during my stay at Constantinople.

As the royal cortege pa.s.sed along the line, the soldiers doffed their caps, and when it arrived at the centre of each regiment, the fugle-man gave a signal, and they raised a loud shout, followed by a short expressive e.j.a.c.u.l.a.t.i.o.n, in their native language, which means, "G.o.d save the Emperor!" But the most striking and novel portion of the whole was, when the regiments, after being reviewed, successively poured forth one of those beautiful solemn chants, which I heard once before, from the quarter-deck of the Actaeon. [Sidenote: GIANT'S MOUNTAIN] In the present instance, the whole army did not commence singing together, but each regiment caught up the strain as the preceding one dropped it, so that the music lasted for a considerable period; and never did the elaborate productions of the most celebrated composers, sound to me half so beautiful as these sacred simple melodies, when chanted by a thousand united voices, and spreading heavenly music over the whole mountain. I shall not readily forget the effect produced on my feelings by this harmonious "concord of sweet sounds;" and at that moment how highly poetical did the rich descriptive imagery of Shakspeare appear, where he makes one of his characters exclaim:--

"That strain again;--it had a dying fall: O, it came o'er my ear like the sweet south, That breathes upon a bank of violets, Stealing, and giving odour!"

After following the Prince to the top of the Giant's Mountain, we allowed him to descend without our train, and remained to enjoy the wide extended prospect.

Behind the mosque situated on this eminence, is an oblong narrow garden, full of rose trees and jasmine, which vulgar tradition points out as the grave of the giant who gives name to the mountain, and who figures in the Pagan annals as a hero of extraordinary size and valour. Among the Christians, he is said to have been a vast and ferocious giant; while the Mussulmans will have him to be a holy dervish. In each tradition he was a monster, that sat on the top of the mountain, and dangled his feet in the waters of Buyukdere to cool himself. According to the poets, every one who pa.s.sed the Bosphorus was compelled to engage him in single combat, until he fell, at last, by the hand of Pollux. The Christian version of the story, that describes him as the stirrer up of whirlpools, and the devourer of the sailors who attempted to pa.s.s the channel without paying tribute, is equally wild and fabulous. The Mussulman account, which makes him a dervish that lived to a vast age, and whose favour it was the object of every one of the Faithful to gain, is the least improbable of the whole.

[Sidenote: DISTANT PROSPECT.] Near the mosque stands a pretty little kiosk, belonging to the Sultan, shaded by some amazingly fine plane trees. Constantinople is not seen from this spot, but the view extends along the whole channel, and the isles in the Sea of Marmora are just visible; while beyond them, towering into the skies, and of the most dazzling whiteness, appears Mount Olympus, the habitation of the G.o.ds.

The prospect on the European side is tame and unpicturesque, consisting almost entirely of a succession of flat uncultivated downs, with nothing to break the dull monotony of the scene, except here and there, where the tall slender minaret of a mosque, or a single tree, rises against the horizon, and resembles the mast of some solitary vessel ploughing its course through the boundless waste of waters.

We descended by a different route, through part of the ground marked out for a new camp, the necessity for which it is difficult to comprehend, unless more troops are expected. We got into the Sultan's Valley, and lounged under the trees till dinner-time, when we pa.s.sed over to Terapia.

[Sidenote: GRAND FeTE.] Most of the Turkish ministers were present at the grand fete and dinner given by the Austrian emba.s.sy, at which the Seraskier got "plenissimus Bacchi," and, I believe, proved rather uproarious; at least he became terribly amorous, and attentive to the ladies. Had he been able, and dared, he would have waltzed and danced with them all. I did not go, for a good reason,--I was not asked. One had, after all, the satisfaction of the "fox and the grapes." It was a poor affair! There could, in reality, be no great pleasure in seeing an a.s.sembly of old grey-bearded Turks getting drunk on porter and Champagne, and making fools of themselves, however much gratification it might afford the sapient heir to the throne of Bavaria, and his attendant crowd of Germans and Neapolitans.

[Sidenote: THE PRINCE AND THE SULTAN.] _Monday, 17th._--This morning the Russians began to embark their tumbrils and heavy baggage, so that they seem to be absolutely going in earnest. I went down to Pera to learn the result of the negotiations for delaying the steam-boat, and found most of the pa.s.sengers in a state of fury. Some among them had resigned their pa.s.sage, and resolved to travel home by land; others were storming, because it was now proposed to put off the boat's starting till Sat.u.r.day, Prince Butera having been offered an audience on Friday. It seems that when the Sultan refused the Austrian application, Orloff went and COMMANDED him to receive his Royal Highness, "UNDER PAIN OF INCURRING THE DISPLEASURE OF HIS IMPERIAL MASTER THE EMPEROR OF ALL THE RUSSIAS, THE EMPEROR OF THE East!" And how did Mahmoud act? Why, he consented; ay, consented, not only to receive with open arms this man, who is the brother of a king set over a portion of his empire, which has been wrested by force and treachery from his sublime grasp, and once the brightest jewel of his diadem, but also to present him with a snuff-box set in diamonds, with his own portrait on the lid! This is the first instance in which the great imperial monkey has made use of the sublime cat's paw!

[Sidenote: PRINCE BUTERA.] Though the delay in the starting of the boat was openly resisted by all the English, as well as by the supercargoes, the Prince's governors continued running from one pa.s.senger to the other, canva.s.sing for votes. The almost universal reply to this unreasonable application was, "that it appeared extraordinary a prince royal, who, together with his suite, had treated the pa.s.sengers during the whole voyage with supercilious contempt, and thwarted them whenever they wished the slightest change in the route, should now condescend to solicit those same individuals to delay the boat a week, and inconvenience themselves, to further an object in which the Prince alone was at all interested."

The conduct of the royal party, on the very morning when this selfish request was made, was not at all calculated to remove the prejudices to which their previous behaviour had given rise. The Prince had obtained a firman to see the mosques, which would have admitted four hundred as readily as four; yet he had not the good feeling or politeness to announce to any single pa.s.senger that he was going to visit these exclusive curiosities, but went with his suite and his particular friends alone; and though he had appointed a certain hour for a.s.sembling before St. Sophia, he actually went thither an hour earlier, so that those who intended to spunge upon the royal firman came too late, and were disappointed. [Sidenote: PREPARATIONS TO DEPART.] After such treatment, could they a.s.sent to postpone the departure of the boat for a single day? Though I am proud to say none of my countrymen gave in, yet the Neapolitans, Germans, and Spaniards, and one or two Frenchmen on board, uniting with the Prince's friends and suite, obtained a majority for the measure. As we dined at the palace, I determined to sound Lord Ponsonby, in the evening, as to the probability of the Actaeon's departure; for hitherto he had repeatedly told me it would take place in a few days, or, at the latest, by the end of the month. This state of uncertainty was very unpleasant; for I was prevented from leaving Terapia on any excursion, even for two or three days; because it was possible she might sail any day at six hours' notice. Now, as it seemed very probable that the steam-boat would remain in the harbour till the end of the week, I might arrange to go in her, especially as my friend and fellow-lodger Barrow was very anxious to be off, and a house divided cannot go on smoothly. By taking a pa.s.sage in the Francesco, I should also have an opportunity of visiting Smyrna and most of the Greek islands. Unfortunately, however, the French amba.s.sador and several of his legation came in, and sat until a late hour; so the opportunity did not occur. In fact, the reply of Captain Grey, in answer to an observation made by the commander of the French frigate, in the course of the evening, sufficiently explained that his departure was altogether uncertain.

_Tuesday, 18th._--I was informed to-day, by Hodgson, that on Thursday, the American charge d'affaires intends visiting the mosques, having received a firman for that purpose; and he very kindly invited me to go, observing, at the same time, that if my two friends chose to be at the gate of the seraglio, opposite St. Sophia, at a certain hour, they might enter in the train.

[Sidenote: ROYAL COUNTRY SEAT.] On returning to Terapia, I joined a party who were going to see the Sultan's palace on the lower side of the bay. It is a very comfortable pleasant country seat, without containing any furniture of a costly description; the usual display of Oriental taste and magnificence being lavished on the baths, which are situated at a short distance from the main building, in a delightfully secluded spot; and are as splendid and luxurious as art can render them. The little valley in which the kiosk stands has been entirely enclosed by stone walls, in order to form gardens and pleasure-grounds; and it is possible to ride for five or six hours through the broad and stately alleys cut through the groves and shrubberies of this lovely domain, without pa.s.sing twice over the same route. [Sidenote: RAPACITY OF THE SULTAN.] This truly royal dwelling once belonged to an iman, whom the Sultan thought proper to bowstring[16], and forfeit his lands. Of the precise nature of his crime I am ignorant; but in a country like Turkey, where the caprice of the Sultan is the law, a very slight pretext is sufficient to ensure the destruction of such as have excited his rapacity by an imprudent display of wealth, or his jealousy by attempts to acquire popularity: in the present case, it was probably the great beauty of this estate that caused its owner's destruction. However this be, I certainly envied his sublime highness the possession of so charming a retreat: it is a place to live and die in; and I felt a momentary desire to pa.s.s the remainder of my existence within its ever-blooming orange, rose, and jasmine bowers. I believe it might belong to the British government for a trifle, having been offered by the Sultan to Mr. Stratford Canning, who refused it, from very honourable motives, as he considered it possible he might be suspected of pressing the government to purchase it, with a view to his own private enjoyment.

The Sultan is now not sorry we declined his offer, for he spends a great portion of his leisure in this, the most pleasant, romantic, and delightful of all his summer residences. We left it highly gratified, after partaking of some delicious strawberries, cherries, and melons, which the gardeners brought us from the hot-houses.

[Sidenote: DEPARTURE OF THE ACTaeON.] After dining at the palace, I found an opportunity of mentioning to his Lords.h.i.+p that I was invited to return home in the Actaeon, she being supposed to be on the point of sailing; but, if this was uncertain, I should endeavour to find another mode of conveyance. Lord Ponsonby, thus appealed to, acknowledged that there was no chance of the s.h.i.+p sailing till her time was up, for he had written to the admiral of the station, and the government at home, to have the Actaeon fixed at Terapia, at his disposal. As he did not know what might happen between him and the Russians, he thought it right to have a frigate to go away in, if necessary; and he preferred that vessel for the purpose, as he felt a strong personal friends.h.i.+p and regard towards both captain and officers. This communication, which was highly complimentary to my friends, as well as particularly satisfactory to myself, decided me at once, and, on returning home, I announced to my gay warm-hearted companions on board the Actaeon that the painful moment of separation was at hand. The blow was not unexpected, yet some of us would rather it had been deferred. The next morning I started for Pera, and bargained with the directors of the steam-boat for my own and my friend's pa.s.sage to Malta.

[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE MOSQUES.] _Thursday, 20th._--This being the day fixed for the American charge d'affaires' visit to the mosques, at nine o'clock our party sallied forth, and, on arriving opposite the Seraglio Gate, we bought slippers, took our pipes, and squatted in the shade, under the wide-spreading roof of the beautiful fountain in the centre of the square.

St. Sophia was built by Justinian on the ruins of a church of the same name, already twice destroyed; and part of the dome was a third time overthrown by an earthquake. Splendid and various were the treasures it once contained; but these have been long since removed by the desecration and sacrilege of the Latin and the Moslem; and nothing of that description is now left to astonish the pilgrim of either creed, who approaches this sacred temple. Justinian gloried that he had erected a place of wors.h.i.+p which far surpa.s.sed the work of Solomon; and on dedicating it the second time, after the restoration of the dome, he was nearly maddened by joy. What would have been his feelings, could he have foreseen the day when the conquering Latin should defile its altar, and the infidel Turk convert it into a temple for the wors.h.i.+ppers of his prophet, after being consecrated to the pure religion of Christianity for a period of nine hundred years! St. Sophia is thus equally an object of veneration to the Christian and the Musulman.

On the arrival of our American friends, we mustered in a large party before the bronze gates of the church, where we were all for a few moments busily engaged in taking off our boots and putting on the slippers we had purchased. This done, we proceeded into the interior of the edifice, with which I confess myself greatly disappointed; as the _tout ensemble_ displays no magnificence, and the impressions on the gazer's mind, partake of none of that involuntary admiration and religious awe, which the sight of an old English cathedral, or the splendid churches of Italy, never fails to produce. One of its greatest defects arises from want of loftiness in the dome, the diameter of which is one hundred and fifteen, while its height does not exceed twenty feet. There is an immense number of columns, the spoils of various heathen temples. Of these, eight, of porphyry, are from that dedicated to the Sun by the Emperor Aurelian; and the same number, of green marble, verd antique, or _serpentine_, from the temple of Ephesus. Very little of the ancient mosaic now remains, as the devotees, both Turk and Christian, have for ages been in the habit of pillaging it, to make ornaments, beads, and talismans; so that the work of destruction is nearly complete, and a manufacture of these relics, which are composed of gilded gla.s.s, will soon be required. I bought a whole handful for a few paras; and having seen them dug out of their cement by the mufti who sold them, I can vouch for their being genuine.

We now ascended into the upper and lower galleries; in the former of which the Greek women performed their devotions, and the men in the latter. Two doors, one on either side of the pa.s.sage in which we now were, opened into a third gallery, where I was told stood the "gates of heaven and h.e.l.l." They are of marble, but the origin of this superst.i.tion I could not learn. The floor of the mosque was covered with beautiful carpets, and the ornaments resembled those I saw in that of Soliman the Magnificent, which is considered a much finer building. St.

Sophia is also surpa.s.sed in beauty by the mosque of Sultan Mehemet, which may be considered as the St. Peter's of the East. The next in size and grandeur are those of Achmet and Osman; but as these buildings very much resemble each other, both in external and internal form and decorations, to see one is quite sufficient: "ab uno disce omnes." A greater or less number of elegant, tall, slender minarets or towers, are attached to each mosque in proportion to its size. They are dazzlingly white, like the edifices to which they belong, and are surmounted by golden crescents that flash and sparkle in the brilliant sunbeams of this sultry clime; and, as the number of public religious foundations is immense, independently of thousands of private mosques; the united splendour of so many glittering objects, added to the beauty of the deep blue cloudless sky, contribute to render the view of Constantinople, from a distance, one of the most singular and attractive prospects on the earth.

On quitting St. Sophia, we proceeded to the mosque of the Sultan Achmet, situated in the Atmeidan[17]; but I did not observe any thing particularly worthy of notice, except the court, which is very beautiful and shaded by fine trees. The Osmalie, or "light of Osman," is built of pure white marble; and may be p.r.o.nounced to hold the same rank among _giomi_, or mosques, as the Cathedral of Milan among Christian churches.

Its clean and white appearance, the untarnished splendour of the gilded railings which surround that sacred spot, pointing eastward towards Mecca, the burial-place of the Prophet; together with the rich and brilliant patterns of the soft carpets that overspread the floor, called forth unqualified admiration from the whole party. We were equally pleased with the a.s.siduity and politeness of the mufti, or priest, who acted as our conductor, in explaining every thing worthy of notice; as well as the purposes to which the different portions of the edifice were applied.

By this time, our fair American friends had pretty well satisfied their curiosity; and they judiciously resolved not to weaken these favourable impressions, by visiting any less respectable mosque. For my own part, I had been congratulating myself on the pleasure I should enjoy, in making a sort of pilgrimage to that of the lovely, gentle, and virtuous Rose, better known by the name of the Sultana Valide: but the ladies out-voted me; and, after expending a vast deal of eloquence in vain endeavours to inspire them with a portion of my sentimental enthusiasm, I was reluctantly compelled to submit to the disappointment; it being impracticable to get admitted any where without the firman. I therefore made my bow, and returned to Terapia, to complete the necessary arrangements for our intended departure.

_Friday, 21st._--I again visited many of the beautiful spots in the vicinity of my residence, to-day; and crossed over to the Sultan's Valley to bid it a final adieu. In recalling to mind, hereafter, the scenes and occurrences of which I was there a partaker, I antic.i.p.ate even more pleasure than was produced by their actual enjoyment. "Haec olim meminisse juvabit."

[Sidenote: FATE OF CONSTANTINOPLE.] _Sat.u.r.day, 22d._--To-day is, probably, the last of my present sojourn in a neighbourhood where I have pa.s.sed so many happy hours; and I cannot help reflecting on the important changes which may take place in the destiny of this empire before I visit its capital again, in case it should ever be my good fortune to return. Who can at present decide whether the white-haired Russian or the cunning Egyptian, the subtle Greek or the ambitious Gaul, shall be the future monarch of the Queen of cities, and occupy the throne of the Caesars and the Prophet? Yet, come what may, her glory can suffer but a temporary eclipse; for, independently of the vast political advantages of her position, the beauty of her capacious harbour, which, from the earliest period, has been crowded with the rich navies of the East and West, and which acquired from that circ.u.mstance the appellation of the Golden Horn, points out Constantinople as the mistress of a great empire. "The genius of the place will ever triumph over the accidents of time and fortune."

[Sidenote: ARMENIAN PAINTER.] Having bidden farewell to the officers of the Actaeon (the best and worthiest set of fellows whom I ever had the happiness of knowing), and taken leave at the emba.s.sy[18], I glided away on the rapid current; and soon Terapia[19], "the abode of health," was entirely lost to the view. After seeing my baggage safely deposited on board the Francesco, I hastened into Stamboul to take leave of Mustapha; and having given the worthy old Turk a hearty shake of the hand, I returned to Pera. The old Armenian, who paints the costumes of the Turks in water-colours, was there in waiting for me; and after disburthening him of all his collection, I copied the portrait of a Georgian slave, which he had in his possession. She was another rare specimen of Eastern loveliness. The evening was finished at Cartwright's, where we took a "doch'an doras," and bade farewell to that honest warm-hearted jovial fellow.

[Sidenote: POETICAL DESCRIPTION.] _Sunday, 23d._--At 8 o'clock all were on board; and the Prince having done us the honour to be punctual, in one hour afterwards the anchor was up, the steam on, and away we went round the Seraglio Point; leaving the

"Queen of the morn! Sultana of the East!

City of wonders, on whose sparkling breast Fair, slight and tall, a thousand palaces Fling their gay shadows over golden seas!

Where towers and domes bestud the gorgeous land, And countless masts a mimic forest stand; Where cypress shades; the minarets snowy hue, And gleams of gold dissolve on skies of blue; Daughter of Eastern art! the most divine, Lovely, yet faithless bride of Constantine: Fair Istamboul, whose tranquil mirror flings, Back with delight thy thousand colourings; And who no equal in the world dost know Save thy own image, pictured thus below!

Dazzled--amazed--our eyes, half-blinded, fail, While sweeps the phantasm past our gliding sail.

Like as in festive scene, some sudden light Rises in clouds of stars upon the sight.

Struck with a splendour never seen before, Drunk with the perfumes wafted from the sh.o.r.e; Approaching near these peopled groves we deem That from enchantment rose the gorgeous dream.

Day without voice;--and motion without sound; Silently beautiful! this haunted ground Is paved with roofs beyond the bounds of sight, Countless and colour'd; wrapp'd in golden light!

'Mid groves of cypress, measureless and vast, In thousand forms of crescents, circles, cast, Gold glitters; spangling all the wide extent, And flashes back to Heaven the rays it sent.

Gardens and domes--bazars, begem the woods-- Seraglio, harems, peopled solitudes, Where the veil'd idol kneels; and vistas through Barr'd lattices, that give th' enamoured view; Flowers, orange-trees--and waters sparkling near.

And black and lovely eyes, alas! that fear At those heaven-gates dark sentinels should stand To scare even fancy from her promised land."[20]

I long'd to see the isles that gem Old Ocean's purple diadem.

I sought by turns--and saw them.

The Seraglio and its dark groves; the gilded domes and their snowy, arrow-like minarets; the Seven Towers, with their fancy-pictured terrors, fade gradually from my sight, as the steam-boat rapidly ploughs the gla.s.sy wave. The eye, straining itself for a last glimpse of the beautiful city, beholds it resting, like a phantom, on the indistinct verge where heaven and the waters meet, until it sinks into the bosom of the unruffled ocean.

[Sidenote: MY FELLOW Pa.s.sENGERS.] What a motley crew! A royal prince; Spanish n.o.bles; Italian counts; French marquises; Dutch chevaliers; and, I may proudly add, English gentlemen. We had also a quack doctor from Paris; a gaming-house-keeper from Milan; a clergyman, poor as an Apostle, from Iceland; a grim-looking student from the University of Gottingen; a Danish baron, music-mad; a singing count from Sienna; a crazy architect from Paris; and two Russian n.o.blemen. There were only two ladies;--a Russian countess, who read nothing but Homer, and made cla.s.sical mistakes; and a Bavarian lady, whose great merit was her inclination to render herself agreeable. Then there were the chief captain, the second captain, and the sub-captain; the manager, second manager, and sub-manager. However, two things most necessary to the establishment were still wanting; namely, a good cook, and an honest steward.

[Sidenote: MARBLE QUARRIES.] The vessel carried a Neapolitan pennant, and was armed with six bra.s.s cannon, a very sufficient stand of small-arms, and a forest of boarding-pikes; in case we should be attacked by any of the pirates infesting the Greek Archipelago. An awning was spread over its s.p.a.cious deck, under which we lived like a swarm of flies, fifty in number, feeding on detestable provender, and sleeping in beds remarkable for uncleanness and their innumerable parasitical tenants. The place marked on our route to be first visited was that part of the Island of Marmora containing the quarries which have supplied Constantinople with building materials from time immemorial; but in reference to the precise spot where they were to be found, there were as many opinions as voices. The truth was plain, no one knew; neither captains, managers, pilots (of whom there were two), nor tourists; and in the midst of our Babylonish discussion, the boat arrived off the town of Marmora; and, of course, on the wrong side of the island for our purpose. Some insisted on returning; others were for crossing the isle on mules, or, if these could not be procured, on foot: but the majority, of which I was one, seemed satisfied with staying where fortune and steam had brought them. When the quarryites landed, they found it would take fourteen hours to visit their _lion_, and, as luck would have it, twelve hours only were marked on the itinerary as the period allowed for the pa.s.sengers to remain at the island. Backed by this powerful argument, we the anti-quarryites demanded a ballot, and an overwhelming majority decided that the boat should start at midnight.

[Sidenote: GREEK DEPUTATION.] Soon after the return of the pa.s.sengers who had landed, a deputation of the inhabitants, consisting of the papa, or chief priest, with some of his brethren, as well as the civil authorities, all Greeks, came on board to compliment the brother of their King. As the Prince did not understand one word of their language, he begged Madame Manochini (the owner of a lodging-house at Smyrna, who had been treated to a pa.s.sage to Stamboul and back) to be his interpretress. After thanking them in his name, she enquired if they had any daughters?