Seaward Sussex Part 13

[The tiny village of Worth, south of the East Grinstead road and nearly 3 miles from Crawley, should be visited for the sake of its unique Saxon church, the only one remaining which is complete in its ground plan. Notice the typical band of stones supported by pillars which runs round the building; also the curious double font; pulpit dated 1577 and ancient lych-gate. On the north side of the church is a "Devil's Door." The exorcized spirit pa.s.sed out this way at the sacrament of Baptism.]

We now enter the forest zone. Note the fine retrospect when approaching Pease Pottage (31-1/4 m.).

[On the left is Tilgate Forest, which is continued by Worth Forest, whence many lovely and lonely paths lead to Horstead Keynes and West Hoathly, whose church has a land-mark spire visible for many miles. Underneath the tower will be seen two iron grave slabs. Within the church notice the Geometrical windows and the triple sedilia. The village is picturesque and well placed, and the local "lion"--"Great upon little," an effect of denudation, is well known. The village is much nearer the Seaford road at Wych Cross, but from the present route we have the advantage of seven miles of woodland otherwise unexplored.

On the right from Pease Pottage, in the recesses of St. Leonard's Forest, and two miles from the main route, is Holmbush Beacon Tower. This should be visited for the sake of the magnificent woodland views; in the distance are the south Downs visible from Butser Hill behind Portsmouth to the hills surrounding Lewes.

Hindhead, Blackdown, Leith Hill, the North Downs and the Hamps.h.i.+re Heights are all visible on a clear day.

We are here in a remote district, the haunt of legend and folk-lore almost unequalled in the south. Here St. Leonard put an end to the career of a fierce and fiery dragon, but not before the saint was grievously wounded, and where his blood fell now grow the lilies of the valley, common here but nowhere else in the neighbourhood. Headless hors.e.m.e.n, who have an unpleasant habit of sharing the benighted traveller's steed; witches and warlocks; white-ladies and were-wolves are in great plenty, and the normal inhabitants of the forest must have a fervent appreciation of the high noon and the hours of daylight.]

The two miles south of Pease Pottage are the highest on the road culminating at Handcross, 504 feet (33-1/2 m.). The road now descends the steep and dangerous Handcross Hill.

[At the foot of the hill, half mile right, is Slaugham ("Slaffam") with a Decorated church, old font and bra.s.ses.]

Bolney Common (37-1/2 m.) in lovely surroundings. The church has early Norman, or as some authorities declare, Saxon features. The Norman south door, covered by a wooden porch dating from the eighteenth century, should be noticed.

[Cuckfield ("Cookfield") 3 miles left, amidst beautiful scenery, with a fine Early English church commanding a glorious view. Note monuments and handsome reredos. Cuckfield Place is the original of "Rookwood," but has been "improved" out of its ancient character. The Jacobean gate house still stands unrestored at the end of the avenue. Close by is Leigh Pond, a fine sheet of water.]

Albourne Green (42 m.), for Hurstpierpoint (1 m.), beautiful views of the South Downs which we now ascend to Pyecombe (45-1/2 m.).

Preston (49-1/2 m.).

Brighton (front 51-1/2 m.).

THE HORSHAM ROAD

At Kennington Church we leave the Brighton Way and pa.s.s Clapham Common, Tooting and Merton to Cheam (11-1/4 m.) Ewell and Epsom (14-1/2 m.) The Downs and Race-course are up to the left.

Ashtead.

Leatherhead (18-1/2 m.). This little town has some picturesque streets, but is rapidly becoming suburban. The Perpendicular church contains interesting windows. The scenery now greatly improves and becomes beautiful after pa.s.sing Mickleham, a pretty village with a Transitional church.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CAUSEWAY, HORSHAM.]

Norbury Park, on the right, is one of the most charming places in Surrey. Box Hill (590 feet), which may easily be ascended from the well-placed Burford Bridge Hotel, is on the left. The road, river and rail run through a deep cleft in the North Downs forming the Mole valley and facing the sandstone hills of the Weald. In the shallow depression between the two ranges lies Dorking (23-1/4 m.). The town is pleasant but has nothing of much interest for the visitor. It is for its fine situation from a scenic point of view and as a convenient headquarters from which to explore the best of Surrey that it will be appreciated. The rebuilt parish church is imposing and stands on the site of the ancient Roman Stane Street. We leave the town by South Street and proceed to Holmwood, from which Leith Hill may be visited, though there are more direct and much finer routes from Dorking.

Capel (28-3/4 m.). We are now in quiet wealden scenery and there is nothing of special interest until we cross the Suss.e.x boundary, about half a mile beyond the railway bridge. Kingsfold (31-1/2 m.). We now bear left and again 1-1/2 miles farther by Warnham Pond, with memories of Sh.e.l.ley.

Horsham (36 m.). This prosperous and pleasant county centre makes a good halting place. The Early English and Perpendicular church is worth a visit, although practically rebuilt in the middle of the last century. The fine proportions and s.p.a.cious and lofty interior will at once strike the visitor. Notice the altar tomb of Thomas de Braose (1396), Lord Hoo (1455), Eliz. Delves (1645), and a bra.s.s of Thomas Clerke (1411). Also the ancient font. The old "Causeway," which leads to the church from Carfax, as the centre of the town is called, should be more popular with artists than it is. The wonderful colour of some of the Horsham roofs will be noticed; this is due to the local stone with which the older roofs are covered. It seems a pity from an aesthetic point of view that the quarries are no longer used. The great weight of the covering had another advantage, it made for st.u.r.dy building and honest workmans.h.i.+p. Horsham no longer has the artificial importance of returning members to Parliament (at one time, two; and as lately as 1885 one), but is now merged in the western division of Suss.e.x, of which district it shares with Midhurst the position of chief agricultural and commercial centre. The town is also becoming residential as East Grinstead, on the other side of the county, has already done.

[Ill.u.s.tration: POND STREET, PETWORTH.]

THE Sh.o.r.eHAM ROAD

The high road from Horsham skirts Dene Park, which is quite open and commands fine views of the town and the surrounding Weald. To the right may be discerned the buildings of Christ's Hospital and Southwater Station (38-1/2 m.).

Burrell Arms (41-1/2 m.). A halt must be made to view the scanty remains of Knepp Castle, a one time stronghold of the de Braose family.

Close by is a beautiful lake, the largest sheet of water in the south of England. The road now bears south-east. To the right and close to the Adur is West Grinstead. The church, partly Norman, should be seen.

Note the two naves. The old oak seats bear the names of the farms to whose occupants they have from time immemorial belonged. Behind the altar of the north nave is an aumbry, and in the roof above is a cover once used for suspending the canopy over the Host. There are several interesting monuments including two altar tombs in the Burrell chantry with fine fifteenth century bra.s.ses. Note the font, an old stone coffin, foliated lancets, fragments of old stained gla.s.s and some remains of ancient frescoes. The rectory is a good specimen of Elizabethan building. West Grinstead House, once the home of the Carylls, friends of Pope, "This verse to Caryl, Muse, is due," _Rape of the Lock_. The poem is said to have been written under the shade of "Pope's Oak" in the park.

[Cowfold, 3 miles east, is chiefly remarkable for the Carthusian Monastery dedicated to St. Hugh. Its spire is a landmark for many miles. This has been the home of exiled French monks since 1877.

Visitors are very courteously shown over the greater part of the building, which is of much interest and contains several venerated relics brought from the monastery of the Grand Chartreuse. The magnificent bra.s.s to Nelond, Prior of Lewes, in the parish church should also be seen.]

We now continue south-east and cross the railway to Sh.o.r.eham. The tall spire seen on the left is St. Hugh's Monastery (above). Partridge Green station (44-1/4 m.), Ashurst (46-1/4 m.), with an Early English church.

At the top of every rise we are rewarded with glorious views of the Downs crowned by Chanctonbury Ring.

Steyning (49-1/4 m.).

Bramber (50-1/4 m.).

New Sh.o.r.eham (54-1/4 m.).

[Ill.u.s.tration: STEYNING CHURCH.]

THE WORTHING ROAD

As above to the Burrell Arms. The route runs south and then south-west to Dial Post (43-1/4 m.), and so with striking views ahead through As.h.i.+ngton (46-1/4 m.) to Was.h.i.+ngton (48-1/4 m.).

Findon (51 m.).

Broadwater (54-1/4 m.).

Worthing (55-1/2 m.).

THE ARUNDEL--CHICHESTER ROAD

This route leaves the Horsham road nearly two miles south of the village of Kingsfold.

Warnham (33-1/4 m.). The district is the scene of Sh.e.l.ley's childhood and youth. The poet was born at Field Place, about 1-1/2 miles south on the right of the road.

Broadbridge Heath (35-1/4 m.).

Five Oaks (39 m.). We now join the Roman "Stane Street" from London Bridge to Chichester.

Billingshurst (40-3/4 m.). Norman and Perpendicular church. Note fine oak panelled ceiling.

[Across the Adur valley, 2-1/2 miles west is the interesting church at Wisborough Green. The situation is delightful and the antiquarian interest more than ordinary. Kemble identifies the mound on which the church is built as being the site of a temple dedicated to Woden (Wisc or "Wish"). Restoration brought to light early Norman (perhaps Saxon) remains in this late Norman church.

The chancel is Early English. Notice the tower walls inside.

There are some ancient frescoes, a stoup, and other interesting details.]

Adversane (42-3/4 m.).

Pulborough (46 m.).

Bury (50-3/4 m.).