Curiosities Of Great Britain: England And Wales Delineated Part 8

[Sidenote: The king presided at the execution of one of its lords.]

Concerning the true period of the foundation of this castle, many conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a proof is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or b.u.t.tresses. It is eight feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone, is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in the herring-bone fas.h.i.+on, which is observable in most Saxon buildings.

In the centre is a subterraneous room and pa.s.sage; and in a tower attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pa.s.s, commanding the entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The tower and gateway facing the base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of them measuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon b.a.l.l.s discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone, from the quarries in Yorks.h.i.+re; and those of a brown cast were carefully selected, in order that they might a.s.similate in colour with the old remains. The new walls have risen upon the ancient model, and correspond with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament.

An entire new front of ma.s.sy stone, which differs materially from the others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the s.p.a.ce now occupied on the bas.e.m.e.nt story, by a long range of servants'

offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house, scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers, mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this n.o.ble edifice, for upwards of twenty-five years. The arrangements were formed entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful sculptured ba.s.so relievo historical representation of King Alfred receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet deep on the inside, and the whole of this s.p.a.cious case is lined with mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate gla.s.s panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest grain.

[Sidenote: The great antiquity of the castle.]

[Sidenote: The castle dungeons of remarkable depth.]

[Sidenote: Remarkable owls]

[Sidenote: The late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient magnificence.]

[Sidenote: Employed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years.]

In the Barons room the following inscription appears:--

"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,

EARL OF ARUNDEL,

in the year of Christ, 1806, in the 60th year of his age, dedicated this stone To Liberty, a.s.serted by the Barons, in the reign of John."

On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid a.s.semblage of the n.o.bility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of ancient armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the walls; and every advent.i.tious aid was adopted to give state and majesty to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England.

Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the table was ornamented with a n.o.ble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal coronet, and the banners of the ill.u.s.trious house of Norfolk.

[Sidenote: Festival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held here.]

The castle occupies a mile in circ.u.mference, and the beautiful domains which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles and a half in circ.u.mference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations.

There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking the beautiful vale of Suss.e.x. The late duke built another tower, facing the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine service, and on every Monday in the year.

[Sidenote: The times when the castle may be inspected by visitors.]

When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London, were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents, should be expended for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle; this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since fallen in--and the increased income that has been produced by that cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street, Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the Norfolk family.

_Markets_, Wednesday and Sat.u.r.day.--_Mail_ arrives 7.40. A.M., departs 5.30. P.M.--_Fairs_, May 14, cattle and hogs; August 21, hogs, cattle, and sheep; September 25, cattle and sheep; December 17, cattle and pedlary; second Tuesday in every month for cattle.--_Bankers_, Henty and Co., draw on Lubbock and Co.; Hopkins and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, Crown, and Norfolk Arms.

[Sidenote: Estates in London devoted to keep it in repair.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ 40 Asaph, St.[A] city & pa Denbigh Holywell 10 Abergeley 7 40 Asby[B] pa Westmor Appleby 5 Orton 5 39 Ascote ex. pa. ham Warwick Southam 2 Warwick 9 +--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+ 40 Asaph, St.[A] city & pa Holyhead 57 208 3144 40 Asby[B] pa Brough 9 273 436 39 Ascote ex. pa. ham Kineton 8 82 12 +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+

[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of the paris.h.i.+oners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes; the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the protectors.h.i.+p of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by the post-master, who made great havoc in the choir of the cathedral, using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne.

Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr.

Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died 1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean s.h.i.+pley, who stimulated the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the cathedral.

_Market_ Sat.u.r.day.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16, December 26, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Lion.

[Sidenote: The font of the cathedral used for watering horses.]

[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli--some circular, others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone rock, consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6 broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water, which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which always stands at one temperature.

[Sidenote: Pate Hole, an immense cavern.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+ 39 Ascott ham Warwick s.h.i.+pston 7 L. Compton 3 31 Ascott ham & chap Oxford Bensington 5 Dorchester 4 39 Ascott pa Oxford ... 5 ... 4 34 Asgarby pa Lincoln Sleaford 3 Tattershall 11 24 Asgarby pa Lincoln Spilsby 6 Horncastle 6 10 Ash ham Derby Derby 7 Uttoxeter 11 21 Ash pa Kent Wingham 3 Sandwich 3 21 Ash pa Kent Farmingham 4 Gravesend 7 37 Ash pa Surrey Farnham 4 Bagshot 9 16 Ash, or Ashe pa Hants Whitchurch 6 Basingstoke 7 11 Ashe[A] ham Devon Colyton 2 Lyme 4 +--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+ 39 Ascott ham Kineton 12 78 ... 31 Ascott ham & chap Oxford 10 61 97 39 Ascott pa Oxford 10 51 419 34 Asgarby pa Falkingham 8 114 146 24 Asgarby pa Tattershall 10 138 57 10 Ash ham Burton-on-T. 7 136 50 21 Ash pa Ramsgate 8 63 2416 21 Ash pa Wrotham 4 20 586 37 Ash pa G.o.dalming 8 35 2001 16 Ash, or Ashe pa Kingsclere 6 53 114 11 Ashe[A] ham Axminster 4 148 ... +--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+

[A] ASHE is situated in Musbury parish, which lies in the hundred of Axminster, two miles east by north from Colyton. It is the birth place of the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough: this distinguished person was born here in the year 1650. He received only an indifferent education, for his father took him to court at the age of twelve years, when he became page, as his sister, Arabella, became mistress to the Duke of York. In 1660, he obtained a pair of colours in the Guards. His first service was at the siege of Tangier, and, on his return from thence, he became the favourite of the d.u.c.h.ess of Cleveland, who gave him 5,000 with which he purchased an annuity for life. He afterwards served under the great Turenne, who was so pleased with his person and bravery as to call him the handsome Englishman. At the siege of Maestricht he so distinguished himself, that the King of France publicly thanked him. On his return he was made lieutenant-colonel, gentleman of the bedchamber, and master of the robes to the Duke of York, whom he attended to Holland and Scotland; and about this time married Miss Jennings, maid of honour to the Princess, afterwards Queen Anne. In 1682, he was s.h.i.+pwrecked with the Duke of York, in their pa.s.sage to Scotland, on which occasion his royal highness expressed the greatest anxiety to save his favourite. The same year he was made a peer, by the t.i.tle of Baron Eymouth, in Scotland; and when James came to the crown, he was sent to France to notify the event. In 1685, he was created Lord Churchill, of Sandridge. The same year he suppressed Monmouth's rebellion, and took him prisoner. He continued to serve James with great fidelity, till the arrival of the Prince of Orange, and then left him, for which he has been stigmatized, and perhaps not unjustly, with base ingrat.i.tude. His own apology was a regard for the religion and const.i.tution of his country. He was created Earl of Marlborough by King William in 1689, and appointed commander of the English army in the low countries. He next served in Ireland, and reduced Cork, with other strong places. In 1692, he was suddenly dismissed from his employments, and committed to the Tower: he was, however, very soon released, but the cause of this disgrace was never clearly explained. After the death of Queen Mary he was restored to favour; and at the close of that reign he had the command of the English forces in Holland, and the States chose him captain-general of their forces. On the commencement of the reign of Anne, he recommended a war with France, and his advice was adopted. In the first campaign of 1702, he took a number of strong towns, particularly Liege. In the following year he was created a Duke. In 1704, he joined Prince Eugene, in conjunction with whom he conquered the French at Hochstedt, took Marshal Tallard prisoner, and brought him to England, with 26 other officers of rank, 121 standards, and 179 colours.

He then received the grant of the manor of Woodstock. In 1706, he fought the famous battle of Ramilies. This battle accelerated the fall of Louvain, Brussels, and other important places. He arrived in England, and received fresh honours from the Queen and Parliament. Blenheim house was ordered to be built, and a pension of 5,000. a year was awarded him. In 1709, he defeated Marshal Villars at Malplaquet. In the year 1711, he returned to England with additional laurels, but was soon after dismissed from his employments. To add to this unjust treatment, a prosecution was commenced against him for applying the public money to his private purposes. Indignant at such conduct, he went into voluntary banishment till 1714, when he landed at Dover, amidst the acclamations of the people. George I. restored him to his military employments, but he retired from his appointments to Windsor, and died in 1722. His remains were interred with great pomp in Westminster Abbey. His d.u.c.h.ess outlived him several years. She was a woman of a strong mind, but overbearing pa.s.sions. Her letters have been printed, and display uncommon sagacity, blended with a great share of vanity. The mansion house in which the Duke was born, now in a state of ruin, was rebuilt shortly after the civil wars, by Sir John Drake, whose daughter had married Sir Winston Churchill.

_Fairs_, April 6, and Oct. 11, for pedlary.

[Sidenote: The birth-place of the celebrated Duke of Marlboro'.]

[Sidenote: He took Monmouth prisoner in the reign of James II.]

[Sidenote: Created a Duke by Queen Anne.]

[Sidenote: Blenheim house built for him.]

[Sidenote: Died in the 8th year of the reign of Geo. I.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+---------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+ 4 Ashamstead chap Berks East Ilsley 5 Streatley 4 31 Ashamstead chap Oxford Gt. Marlow 4 H. Wycombe 4 36 Ash Bocking pa Suffolk Needham 6 Ipswich 6 10 Ashbourn[A] m.t. & pa Derby Derby 13 Leek 16 34 Ashbrittle pa Somerset Wellington 6 Wivelis...o...b.. 5 +--+---------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+ Dist Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond Population.

+--+---------------------+----------------------+----+---------+ 4 Ashamstead chap Newbury 9 49 346 31 Ashamstead chap Henley 6 35 ... 36 Ash Bocking pa Woodbridge 8 75 234 10 Ashbourn[A] m.t. & pa Wirksworth 9 139 4756 34 Ashbrittle pa Dulverton 10 254 635 +--+---------------------+--------+-------------+----+---------+

[A] ASHBOURN is very pleasantly situated in a rich valley on the eastern side of the Dove, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into two parts by a rivulet, which is called Henmore, the southern part of which is termed Compton, the ancient Campdene. From the descent of the hill on the Derby road, the view of the place as it presents itself embosomed amongst the hills is beautifully picturesque. It is a neat town, but there is nothing remarkable in its buildings. At the time of the conquest it was a royal manor, and subsequently became a part of the Duchy of Lancaster, until it was sold by Charles I. It is supposed that the church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, was finished in the thirteenth century; in it are many monuments to the c.o.c.kaines, Bradburns, and Boothby's, successively possessors of the manors. Sir Thomas c.o.c.kaine and other natives, founded a Free Grammar School, in the reign of Elizabeth, for children of the town and neighbourhood, and also a second for the poorer cla.s.s of children of both s.e.xes. Here are also a chapel and a neat row of alms-houses, founded in 1800 by a native named Cooper, who made a fortune in London, for six poor men and women, and several other hospitals for decayed house-keepers, including one for the maintenance of four clergymen's widows. A very considerable trade is carried on here in cheese and malt, many horses and cattle are sold at its fairs. Much lace is made here, and a great many persons are employed in the iron and cotton factories in the neighbourhood. The romantic and beautiful glen of Dovedale is within a short distance. This town is one of the polling places for the southern division of the county.

_Market_, Sat.u.r.day.--Mail arrives 11 A.M., departs 2-3/4 P.M.--_Fairs_, first Tuesday in January, and Feb. 13, for horses and horned cattle, April 3, May 21, and July 5, for horses, horned cattle, and wool. August 16, October 20, and November 29, for horses, and horned cattle; the fairs for horses begin two or three days before the fair-day.--_Inns_, Blackmoor's Head and Green Man.--_Bankers_, Arkwright and Co.; drawn on Smith, Payne, and Co.

[Sidenote: A royal manor of the Saxon Kings made part of the Duchy of Lancaster.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ 38 Ashburnham[A] pa Suss.e.x Battle 6 Hailsham 6 11 Ashburton[B] } Devon Exeter 20 Torquay 13 bo. m.t. & pa} 4 Ashbury to & pa Berks Lambourn 16 Wantage 10 11 Ashbury pa Devon Hatherleigh 5 Oakhampton 6 24 Ashby pa Lincoln Gt. Grimsby 7 Caistor 9 24 Ashby pa Lincoln Spilsby 2 Burgh 3 24 Ashby pa Lincoln Sleaford 6 Lincoln 13 24 Ashby to Lincoln Brigg 6 Epworth 7 27 Ashby pa Norfolk Norwich 8 Acle 7 27 Ashby pa Norfolk Acle 3 Norwich 12 36 Ashby pa Suffolk Lowestoft 5 Yarmouth 8 28 Ashby, Cold pa Northamp Northamp 12 Daventry 10 23 Ashby-de-la-Zouch} Leicester Leicester 18 Kegworth 10 [C] m.t. & pa} +--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ 38 Ashburnham[A] pa East Bourne 11 55 721 11 Ashburton[B] } Totness 7 192 4165 bo. m.t. & pa} 4 Ashbury to & pa Highworth 7 70 698 11 Ashbury pa Launceston 14 201 74 24 Ashby pa Louth 12 160 179 24 Ashby pa Wainfleet 6 134 170 24 Ashby pa Navenby 6 121 178 24 Ashby to Gainsboro' 14 157 378 27 Ashby pa Bungay 9 116 72 27 Ashby pa Yarmouth 8 125 82 36 Ashby pa Beccles 7 119 42 28 Ashby, Cold pa Harborough 10 78 385 23 Ashby-de-la-Zouch} M Bosworth 10 115 4727 [C] m.t. & pa} +--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] ASHBURNHAM is in the hundred of Foxearle, and rape of Hastings. This village gives the name and t.i.tle of Earl to the representatives of the ancient family of Ashburnham, who possessed this manor before the conquest. The s.h.i.+rt and white silk drawers in which Charles I. was executed, on the 30th of January, 1649, and also the watch which he gave to Mr. John Ashburnham, on the scaffold, are still preserved in the church, having been bequeathed by one of his descendants to the clerk of this parish for ever, and are exhibited as great curiosities.

[Sidenote: Bequests of Charles I. made on the scaffold.]

[B] ASHBURTON is situated in a valley encompa.s.sed by hills; it is about a mile from the river Dart, and consists princ.i.p.ally of one long street, through which runs the high road from London to Plymouth. The houses are neat, and most of them covered with slate, of which there is abundance in the vicinity. The manor belonged to the crown in the reign of James I., but it has since pa.s.sed through various private hands. The town, which is governed by a portreeve, chosen at the court leet and baron of the manor, is a borough by prescription, (that is to say, a custom continued until it has the force of law;) and was const.i.tuted one of the four stannary towns of Devon, by a charter of Edward I., in the twenty-sixth year of whose reign it sent two members to Parliament, but only returned members once subsequently until 1640, in which year its privilege was restored: by the late reform bill, it now returns but one member; the electors on the old const.i.tuency were 101, and 10 householders 342. The portreeve is the returning-officer. The borough comprises the parish of Ashburton.

_Market_, Sat.u.r.day.--_Fairs_, first Thursday in March; first Thursday in June; August 10; November 11, for horned cattle.--_Inns_, London and Golden Lion.--_Mail_ arrives 5 P.M., departs 9-3/4 A.M.