Records of Woodhall Spa and Neighbourhood Part 13

Bright Somersby! the sometime summer haunt Of Nors.e.m.e.n and of Dane, whose bards mayhap Foretold-a nest of nightingales would come, And trill their songs in shades of Holy Well; Prophetic bards; for we have lived to see Within your bounds a large-limbed race of men; A long-lived race, and br.i.m.m.i.n.g o'er with song, From lays of ancient Greece, and Roman eld, To songs of Arthur's knights, and England's prime, And modern verse, in graceful sonnet sung.

Each of the brood was clothed upon with song; Yet some had stronger pinions than the rest; And one there was, who for thy fame will long Send pilgrims to thy cross in loving quest.

Mr. Caswell pa.s.sed away in August, 1896, much valued and much missed by many friends who knew his worth.

A trace of the Saxon still survives in the name of a field, to the south of the town, and lately given to the town by the Lord of the Manor, which is called "The Wong." This is an old Saxon word for "meadow." In the "Ancient English Romance of Havelok the Dane" (Early English Text Society, London, 1868), we find in line 397, "Casteles and tunes, wodes and wonges," _i.e._ castles and villages, woods and fields. In Stamford a back street, formerly in the suburbs, retains the name Wong street. In North Yorks.h.i.+re is a hamlet named Wet-w.a.n.g, and in our own neighbourhood, at Halton Holegate, near Spilsby, there is land called "The Wongs."

Horncastle was the Roman station Banovallum, or fortress on the Bane, mentioned by the historian Ravennas. Fragments of the ma.s.sive walls of the old castrum, or fort, can be distinctly traced by those who know where to look for them; but they need looking for, since, for the most part, they are hidden in the back premises of shops or residences, which face the street. Briefly stated, the western wall runs along the western boundary of the churchyard of the Parish Church, and may there be seen, as well as a fragment of it in a yard at the end of the road which pa.s.ses north of the churchyard. It continued northward to within a few yards of the bridge over the northern branch of the ca.n.a.l. The southern wall runs almost parallel with the south branch of the ca.n.a.l, portions being visible at the back of the Grammar School, and at a corner of St. Mary's square close to the churchyard. This runs eastward through various back premises, and may best be seen in a coalyard near the ca.n.a.l. At that point the eastern wall begins, and runs northward, pa.s.sing under some houses, and yards, and under the High street, the most north-easterly point being found in a small yard at the back of the shop of Messrs.

Carlton and Sons, Chemists, adjoining Dog Kennel yard; so called because Lord Fitz-Williams' hounds were kennelled there when he hunted the South Wold country nearly a century ago. The northern wall runs through back premises an the north of the Market place, and at the back of Mr.

Overton's and Mr. Lunn's premises. In the fields on the south-west of the town, and beyond the south branch of the ca.n.a.l was formerly a maze, such as have been found at other Roman stations. {188a} This was named "Julian's Bower," and thought by Stukeley to be Roman, but the late Bishop Suffragan, E. Trollope, in a Paper read at Horncastle, June 3rd, 1858, {188b} p.r.o.nounced it to be mediaeval. In the Roman maze the youths played at "Tory Town;" and as this game was first taught by Ascanius, called also Iulus, the son of aeneas, from him it acquired the name "Julian." {188c} At the west end of the town, in the angle between the roads leading to the railway station and Edlington, is a site called Maypole Hill. Here the boys and girls used to march in procession on May day, bearing flowers, "with wands called May-gads in their hands, enwreathed with cowslips," and dance around the Maypole; a relic, as some authorities say, of the Roman Festival of the Floralia; {188d} others say it was a practice introduced by the Danish Vikings, with whom the Maypole, often a fixture, represented a sacred tree, around which councils were held and human sacrifices were offered. {188e} These games in Horncastle, Mr. Weir, in his History, {188f} says, were given up about 1780. Several Roman roads converge at Horncastle. The old Roman castle, says Leland, {188g} quoting an old mysterious chronicle, "Vortimer caused to be beten doune; and never sin was re-fortified; the which castel was first enstrengthened by Hors, Hengist's brother." The modern name, Horncastle, is the Saxon Hyrn-Ceaster, or "castle in a corner," as it is placed in the angle formed by the two streams, the Bain and the Waring.

The word Hyrn, or Hurn, occurs at other places in the county, representing an angle or promontory, as well as a recess or bay.

To come to a later period, it appears, from Domesday Book, that Horncastle, at one time, had been the property of Editha, the wife of Edward the Confessor, but at the date of that Survey it belonged to King William himself. In the reign of Stephen it was the demesne of Adelias de Cundi, daughter and heiress of William de Chesney, Lord of Caenby and Glentham. On her death it reverted to the Crown, and the manor was bestowed by Henry II. on Gerbald de Escald, a Fleming. He was succeeded by his grandson, Gerard de Rhodes, during whose minority it was held, in trust, by Ranulph, Earl of Chester. Gerard was succeeded by his son Ralph de Rhodes, who, in the reign of Henry III., sold the manor to Walter Mauclerke, Bishop of Carlisle, and Treasurer of the Exchequer.

This was afterwards confirmed by the King, who conferred upon the Bishop, by a succession of charters, various privilege's and immunities, which tended to the growth and prosperity of the town. Among other powers bestowed upon the Bishop was the right to seize and try felons, and on the south-east of the parish there is a place, still called "Hangman's Corner," where criminals were executed by his order. The bishops long had a palace, their chief Residence, in Horncastle, which was situated at the rear of the Black Horse inn and the premises of Mr. Lunn, grocer. It was demolished in 1770. The manor continued their property till the reign of Ed. VI., when Bishop Aldrich sold it to Edward, Lord Clinton, who, however, was compelled by Queen Mary to re-convey it to the See of Carlisle, and the bishops continued lords of the manor till 1856, when it was transferred to the Bishop of Lincoln with the patronage of the benefice. The lease of this manor was held by Queen Elizabeth and her successor, James I., who a.s.signed it to Sir Henry Clinton. This lease was held for nearly a century by Sir Joseph Banks and his family, ultimately pa.s.sing to James Banks Stanhope, Esq., late of Revesby.

Of the Church not a great deal need be said. It was thoroughly restored in 1864, at a cost of 4,000, and is now in an excellent condition. The east window is almost a copy, on an enlarged scale, of the east window of Haltham church, in this neighbourhood. It exhibits, in stained gla.s.s, events in the life of the Saviour; beneath it is a carved reredos of Caen stone, the central subject of the sculpture being the agony in the garden, with figures of the four Evangelists, two on each side. The organ is a costly and very fine instrument, mainly due to the liberality of the late Henry James Fielding. In the north aisle is a bra.s.s of Sir Lionel Dymoke, in armour, kneeling on a cus.h.i.+on; on either side are two s.h.i.+elds, and beneath, figures of two sons and three daughters. His hands are placed together as in prayer, and from his left elbow issues a scroll, with the inscription, "Sc'ta trinitas unus deus miserere n.o.b."

The s.h.i.+elds display the arms of Dymoke, Waterton, Marmyon, Hebden, and Haydon. The antiquarian, Gervase Holles, gives, from the Harleian MSS., several other inscriptions, which no longer exist, but which are found in Weir's "History of Horncastle." Near this, attached to the wall above the north-east door, and on each side of the arch between the aisle and chancel, are some rude weapons of war in the shape of long knives, or scythes, supposed to have been used at the Winceby fight, when it is known that the troops of the Royalists were very badly armed. {190} There are several memorial tablets on the walls. In the floor of the south aisle, towards the east end, is the tombstone of Sarah Sellwood, wife of Henry Sellwood, Esq., and mother-in-law of Lord Tennyson, the Poet Laureate. She died Sept. 30th, 1816. The roof is of Spanish chestnut, which was formerly completely hidden by a flat plaster ceiling.

On the north wall of the chancel, over the north-east door, is a tablet to the memory of Sir Ingram Hopton, who, after unhorsing Cromwell, was himself slain at the battle of Winceby, the date of which is there wrongly given as "October 6th, A.D. 1643," whereas the fight really took place on October 11th. Cromwell is also there designated as "the arch rebel," whereas at that time he was only a colonel; but, to quote two words from the Latin inscription, he was then an instance of "celata virtus," his future greatness not yet known; and the epitaph, of course inscribed afterwards, is a slight solecism, and we may here venture to make the remark that this monument is now itself a further instance of "celata virtus," for it is placed in a position where no light falls upon it, and the writer actually looked at it recently without recognising what it was. On the wall between nave and chancel, on the south side, is a small stone bearing the names of Thomas Gibson, Vicar; John Hamerton and John Goake, Church-wardens, 1675. Walker, in his "Sufferings of the Clergy" (1714), gives an account of this Vicar, which is here abridged.

Born at Keswick, educated at Queen's College, Oxford, he was appointed Master of the Free School at Carlisle; thence to that of Newcastle, and preferred by the Bishop of Carlisle to the Vicarage in 1634. In consequence of a sermon preached by him, at the election for convocation, he was seized, in 1643, and carried as a prisoner to Hull. Being released, after four months' detention, and returning to Horncastle, he was charged with teaching "Ormanism" (Arminianism), and committed to the "county jayl" at Lincoln, and a Presbyterian minister appointed in his stead at Horncastle. In 1644, Colonel King, the governor of Boston, ordered a party of horse to seize him (he apparently having been released from Lincoln) and to plunder his house, but an old pupil, Lieut.-Colonel John Lillburn, interceded for him with his superior officer, Col. King, and the order was revoked; on Lillburn, however, presently going to London, the order was repeated, and Mr. Gibson was made prisoner, his house plundered, and his saddle horse, draught horses, and oxen, taken from him. He was imprisoned at Boston, then in Lincoln, and in "Tattors-Hall-Castle, where he had very ill usage for 17 weeks." He was sequestered from his living, and an "intruder," one Obadiah How, put in charge. He was now accused by the Puritans of obeying the orders of the Church, defending episcopacy, refusing "the covenant," etc. He retired "to a mean house," about a mile from Horncastle (supposed to be at Nether (Low) Toynton), where he and his family "lived but poorly for two years, teaching a few pupils." He was then made master of the free school at Newark; two years later removed to the school at Sleaford, being presented by Lady Carr. There he lived until the Restoration, and then resumed his Vicarage at Horncastle, until he died, in 1674, aged 84. "He was a grave and Venerable Person, of a Sober and Regular conversation, and so studious of peace, that when any Differences arose in his Parish, he never rested till he had Composed them. He had likewise so well Principled his Parish, that of 250 families in it, he left but one of them Dissenters at his Death." {192a} There is an inscription painted on the south wall of the chancel, with gilt and coloured border, commemorative of this worthy Vicar, which truly states that he "lived in times when truth to the Church and loyalty to the King met with punishment due only to the worst of crimes." The church of St. Mary is not named in Domesday Book, and probably at that time no church existed on this site. But in the Record of an Inquisition post mortem, taken at Horncastle, Jan. 21st, 13845, Richard II., it is stated that the King gave to a certain Gilbert, Prior of Wyllesforth, and his successors, two messuages, &c., and the site of the Chapel of St. Lawrence, with appurtenances, in Horncastre, on condition that "they find a fit chaplain to celebrate ma.s.s in the chapel aforesaid, three days in every week."

{192b} This chapel probably stood in or near the street running northward out of the Market place, and called St. Lawrence street, near which bodies have been exhumed at different times. When the clump of shops were cleared away in 1892, to make the present Market place, through the liberality of the late Right Hon. Edward Stanhope, several large fragments of Norman pillars were found, which probably once belonged to the old Norman chapel. {193c} St. Lawrence is the Patron Saint of Horncastle; and as he was martyred on a brander, or gridiron, the arms of the town are a Gridiron. The "canting" device of a castle on a horn has no very ancient authority. The "pancake bell" is rung on Shrove Tuesday, at 10 a.m.; the Curfew at 8 p.m. from Oct. 11 to April 6, except Sat.u.r.days at 7 p.m., and omitting from St. Thomas's Day to Plough Monday. The Grammar School bell used to be rung, and the writer has often a.s.sisted, as a boy, in ringing it at 7 a.m.; but it has been given up of late years, as the governors of the school declined to pay far it.

In one of the Parish Registers appears the following entry:-"On the Vth daie of October one thousand six hundred & three, in the first yeare of our Souvraine Lord King James was holden in Horncastle Church a solemn fast from eight in the morning until foure a clock in the afternoone by five preachers, vidiz. Mr. Hollinhedge, vicar of Horncastle, Mr. Turner of Edlington, Mr. Downe of Lusbye, Mr. Phillipe of Salmonbye, Mr. Tanzey of Hagworthingha', occasioned by a general and most feareful plague yt yeare in sundrie places of this land, but especially upon the cytie of London. Pr. me Clementen Whitelock." A Record at the Rolls Court states that Horncastle Church was resorted to by a robber for the purpose of Sanctuary, as follows:-"22 August 1229. The King (at Windsor) commands the Sheriff of Lincolns.h.i.+re (Radulphus filius Reginald) to send two coroners of the county to see that a robber who keeps himself in the Church of Horncastle, abjures the kingdom." {193} Among some MS. Records in the possession of Mr. John Overton, I find it stated that in December, 1812, the vestry room was broken open and robbed of all the money, and other valuables; and that 50 reward was offered by the Vestry for the discovery of the culprits.

Although the Manor of Horncastle was at more than one period Royal property, it has only once, so far as we know, been visited by Royalty.

Leland states that "in the year of our Lord 1406, on the 12th of September, on Sat.u.r.day at 6 o'clock, Henry (IV.) by the grace of G.o.d, King of England, came from the town of Horncastle, to the Abbey of Bardney, with a great and honourable company on horseback"; and that "the Abbot and Convent of the aforesaid Monastery went out to meet him in procession at the outer gates." {194a} We have no further known record of this visit; but as Henry IV. was the son of John of Gaunt, and born at Bolingbroke, we may a.s.sume that he pa.s.sed through Horncastle on his way from Bolingbroke to the palace of his father at Lincoln, and that John of Gaunt's stables, still standing at the present day in the High street of that city, sheltered the steeds of the company at the end of their journey. Doubtless he adjourned a night, if not more, at Horncastle, and the loyal old town, probably headed by the Champion Dymoke of the day, would give him as hearty a welcome as that which awaited him from the abbot and monks at Bardney.

Two or three more short remarks may be made about Horncastle. When Sir Ingram Hopton, whose tablet we have mentioned as being in the church, was slain at Winceby, the body, by Cromwell's order, was brought to Horncastle for burial. It was placed in the house, or, rather, a previous house on the same site, in West Street, now named Cromwell House; and it is said, on what authority we do not know, that Cromwell himself came to Horncastle, that he might personally instruct the churchwarden, Mr. Hamerton, that the opponent, whom he p.r.o.nounced to be "a brave gentleman," should be properly honoured in his obsequies. {194b}

A house at the south-west corner of the market place, where Mr. R. W.

c.l.i.therow, solicitor, now lives, was formerly a public-house, but was burnt down and the present one erected. At this house, then occupied by Mr. Sellwood, solicitor, Sir John Franklin visited, and was entertained at a public dinner, a few days before he set out, in 1844, on his final Arctic expedition; and the writer remembers his father going to attend this dinner.

We have said that, 100 years ago, almost every house was thatched. A record in Mr. Overton's possession states that the two first slate-roofed houses in the town were one built by Mr. Storr, a gardener, afterwards occupied by Mrs. L'Oste, widow of the Rev. C. L'Oste, rector of Langton, and now occupied by Dr. Howes; and the house of Mr. t.i.tus Overton, now occupied by Mr. John Overton, being erected in 1793.

Having completed our perambulations of the town, let us betake ourselves once more to the country. We remount the hill, which we descended on leaving Thimbleby for Horncastle, but by a different road, viz., one running due west. Half way up the ascent of this, the westernmost spur of the chalky Wolds, we have two roads, either of which would bring us to Woodhall Spa, almost equi-distant by either; but that is not, as yet, our destination. We continue the ascent, due westward. The summit reached, we have a wide prospect before us. To the left, on a clear day, Boston Stump is visible, the Tower on the Moor rises above the woods, beyond that Tattershall castle and church; in the dim distance the graceful spire of Heckington points, like a needle, to the sky. Straight in front of us woods on woods band and bar the prospect, relieved by the spires of Old Woodhall and Horsington. To the right, the horizon is crowned by the almost pyramidal shape of Lincoln Minster, the seeing eye also detecting the lesser pyramid of the Chapter House, other spires, with the factory chimneys of the now busy city, more than its old prosperity being revived. Further to the right the plantations of Fillingham Castle, some miles beyond Lincoln, on the "Spital road," fringe the view. Truly, it is a wide-ranging outlook, embracing little short of 30 miles, with many a village and hamlet, buried and unseen, in its entourage of wood.

Immediately in the near front is Langton mill, a conspicuous object, which I have distinguished from the top of Lincoln Minster itself.

Half-a-mile farther lies the village of Langton, one of three of the same name in the neighbourhood-one near Spilsby, one near Wragby, and this "by Horncastle." As to the meaning of the name Langton, Dr. Oliver refers the first syllable to the British "Lan" (Welsh Llan), meaning "place of wors.h.i.+p," and so corresponding to Kirkby, or Kirkstead. In this particular case, however, the ordinary meaning of "Lang," or "long,"

would be specially applicable, since the village has evidently at one time been larger than at present, and the parish extended, some six miles, to the Witham, until, quite recently, the distant portion was included in Woodhall Spa. Here again we had, until recent years, in the rectory, another moated residence, standing almost on an island, being surrounded by water except for the s.p.a.ce of the churchyard and the width of a drive to the house. The moat was drained for sanitary reasons about 50 yeans ago, to the regret of many, since, as has been mentioned in a previous chapter (Chapter VI.), it contained an abundance of large pike, and other fish, from which the lake at Sturton Hall was stocked. The Queen was the lady of the manor until, in 1860, much Crown property was sold in this neighbourhood, and the manor and most of the land in the parish, except the glebe, was bought by the Coates family, who have a substantial residence here.

In three fields at the west end of the village are traces of ponds, mounds, and hollows, indicating large buildings existing at one time.

And we have sundry records of men of rank who have owned land, and probably resided, in the parish. Dugdale {196a} tells us that this "town" was given by the Conqueror to the then powerful Bishop of Durham, whose name was William de Karilepho. He was Chief Justice of England.

This gift the Conqueror may be said to have "confirmed with an oath," for the charter, conveying the land, sets forth that they "shall be preserved inviolable for ever," and concludes with an anathema on whosoever shall profane the charter, or change anything therein, unless for the better:-"by the authority of the Prince of Apostles, I deprive them of the society of the Lord, the aforesaid Pope Gregory, and the Church; and reserve them by the judgment of G.o.d, to be punished by everlasting fire with the devil and his angels. Amen." This fearful threat of Divine vengeance, however, seems to have lost its terror after a lapse of time of no very great length, since, according to the historian Banks, {196b} in the 9th year of Edward I. Philip de Marmion held the manor.

There was formerly not only Langton, but an outlying Langton-thorpe, and this is probably referred to in Domesday Book as the "Berewick" of Langton, for it is there stated that Robert Dispenser held in this Berewick {197a} of Langton one carucate in demesne, eight soke men (tenants) with half a carucate, and four villeins with two carucates, and twenty-four acres of meadow, and two hundred and eighty acres of wood containing pasturage.

A powerful family of the Angevines lived here at a later period. There is, extant among the Records of Lincoln, {197b} the Will of Robert Angevine, Gent., of Langton by Horncastle, dated 25th April, 1545, in which he requests that he may be buried in the church of St. Margaret; he bequeaths to his daughters, Millesancte, Grace, Jane, and Mary, "vli.

apiece," the money to come out of Burnsall, Hebden, Conyseat, and Norton, in Yorks.h.i.+re; to his wife Margaret "xli. a year for life out of the said lands"; and to his son William lands in Hameringham. The family acquired their name thus:-Ivo Tailbois was at the head of the Aungevine troops of auxiliaries which William the Conqueror brought over with him from Normandy; and this name, in time, took the various forms of Aungelyne, Aungeby, and Angevine. There were Angevines at Whaplode, in the south-east of the county, in the 12th century. There was a branch of them at Theddlethorpe, and at Saltfleetby, in the 14th century. The one at Langton had a brother at West Ashby. They appear in the Visitation of 1562 among the leading families of the county gentry; but in 1592 the name does not appear, and they dwindled away, and at the time of the Commonwealth are nowhere found. The old families of Scroope and of Langton are also said to have resided here. A member of the family of the Dightons, who owned Stourton, Waddingworth, and other properties in this neighbourhood, if not actually residing in Langton (although he probably did), had an interest in the place, as, in a Will, still at Lincoln, dated 15th July, 1557, having requested that he might "be buried in the quire where I die"; among other bequests, he leaves a sum of money "to the poore of Langton by Horncastle." {198}

From 1653 to 1656 Justice Filkin resided at Langton, and before him persons of Horncastle and the neighbourhood were frequently married, the law at that time recognising only civil marriages.

The church of Langton (St. Margaret's) is a small edifice, and, until recently, was in a very poor condition, with no pretension to architectural beauty in any of its features. It had been rebuilt in the 18th century, at the very worst period for such work, and so badly done that it was almost a ruin when the writer, as rector, undertook its restoration. Though still small, it now has several interesting features. The pulpit, reading desk and lectern have been carved by the Rector, in old oak, in Jacobean style, in memory of his father, who was rector 49 years. In the chancel there is an Aumbrey containing an ancient stoup of Barnack stone, said to have formerly been the holy water vessel of Spalding Priory. On the Communion table is a curious old alms dish of "lateen" metal; the device in the centre is the temptation by the devil of our first parents; an inscription in old Dutch runs round,-Vreest Goedt honderhovedt syn geboedt; or, Fear G.o.d, keep his commandments. The font bowl is Early Norman, of Barnack stone, discovered by the Rector among rubbish in some back premises in Horncastle, and supposed to have been the font of the Early Norman church of St. Lawrence, once existing there; the pedestal and base are fragments from the ruins of Kirkstead. In a recess, or aumbrey, behind the west door, is a very interesting relic, found, a few years ago, in the moat of the old hall at Poolham, which we described in the previous chapter. We there mentioned the remains of an oratory, or chapel, still standing in the south-west corner of the kitchen garden at the old Hall. Some men were employed in cleaning out the mud from the encircling moat, the season being a very dry one, and the moat almost empty of water. This had not been done for many years, if ever before, and the mud was some feet thick. Below the above-named chapel ruins an object was thrown up among the mud, which the men took to be a broken seed vessel formerly belonging to a birdcage, but as it was curiously marked, one of them took it home, and asked the writer to go and look at it. He did so, and, seeing its antiquity, he obtained it for a trifle, and communicated with the Society of Antiquaries, and other authorities, about it, with the result that it was p.r.o.nounced to be a mediaeval chrismatory. It was made of coa.r.s.e tarra-cotta of a greyish buff colour, ornamented with patterns of squares, diamonds and crosses, with a fleur-de-lys in the centre of one side, emblematic of the Trinity. It contained in the body two square wells about an inch deep, which were originally covered with arched roofs, but one of these had been broken off. At each end was a spout from the cellar. Its total length was 7 inches; its height, including the roof, 4 inches; breadth, 3 inches. The use of the chrismatory was this:-When a child was to be baptised, as it was brought into the church it was sprinkled with salt, and at baptism it was anointed with oil; and the two cellars were intended respectively to hold the salt and oil.

This object has been exhibited on various public occasions, and has excited much interest, as it is considered to be quite unique. The church was at one time considerably larger, as, at the restoration in 1891, the foundations of a north aisle were found, as well as of a tower.

The Land Revenue Records mention that, in 1553, it had "three gret bells and a sanctum bell." {199a} The only remaining bell bears the inscription "Anno Domini 1579, R. G." {199b} Considerable neglect has been allowed in the past, as is shown by the Archdeacon's Visitation in 1606, when the rector, Wm. Kirk, was presented "for the decay of his parsonage house"; while Wm. Newport, Thos. Goniston, and John Hodgson, guardians, were reported as "collecting monie to ye value of iijl, vjs, vijd, to buy a Co'ion Cup, and not p'viding one, and for not p'viding a sufficient bible, and a chest with two lockers and keys." Uriah Kirke, rector, was also presented "for suffering a barne of 3 baies to fall down belonging to ye parsonage, and for his chauncel being in decay, and the chauncel windows all broken." And Charles Johnson and Augnes, widow of Robt. Thurnhill, late guardian, were reported as "selling away ye Communion Cup belonging to ye church." This larger church had several windows in the chancel, instead of the one window of the modern church, and an old doc.u.ment thus describes them and their colouring:-

Boreales fenestrae in Cancello. Arg. Crosse Crusilly a lyon ramp.

double queued. G. a lyon ram. very crowned or, Everingham. Arg.

billetty a lyon double queued G. Rob. de Seyrt me fecit fieri. Blue a bend 6 mullets of 6 poynts or. Fenestra Austualis-Barry of 6 arg.

and gules in chief, a greyhound cursant sa., collard or.-Skipworth.

In Campanili gules, a cross sarcelly arg. Beke sa. a crosse engrayled or, Ufferd (Willoughby).

These windows were evidently fine, and indicate a connection with the parish of the ancient families Everingham, Skipwith, Deseyrt, Bec and Willoughby. {200a} The architect for the restoration was Mr. W. Scorer, of Lincoln; and the roof of nave and chancel was painted in panels, with emblems of the Pa.s.sion, and texts, by Mr. Powell, of Lincoln. The patronage of the living was vested in Mr. Willoughby West, who also founded and endowed a couple of Bede houses, but the family is now extinct, and by lapse the patronage is with the Bishop.

A walk of a mile farther through fields, one of which is known as Dog-fight, another Broad moor, and a third Pry-close, brings us to the church (St. Margaret also) of Old Woodhall. The name of this field "Pry-close" would seem to be an interesting Norman survival; "Pre" is a meadow. Near Northampton are "the verdant meads of De la Pre." And this may have been the home pasture of the old Wood-Hall. Praie, however, is an old word meaning coa.r.s.e gra.s.s, which is still to be seen in the field.

This church again, of which the writer is vicar, was in a dangerous condition when he entered on the benefice in 1890, but was restored in 1893. It possessed an interesting feature in the spire, one, according to an old saying, of the only four spires existing on this, the eastern, side of the river Witham; that of Louth being the chief, and one of the finest in the kingdom, which took 15 years in building; that of South Somercotes being a third; and that of Linwood being a fourth, of which Gough, in his additions to Camden's "Britannia," (vol. ii., p. 267), says it "is the only one to be seen in a round of 59 parishes hereabouts."

{200b} The spire of Woodhall is a modest imitation of that of Louth, having flying b.u.t.tresses. Half-way up it is encircled by a battlemented corona. Its structure is peculiar, as it rests entirely and solely on two b.u.t.tresses on each side of the west door. It dates from the 14th century. The body of the church is modern, being rebuilt in the worst style in 1807, partly of brick and partly of stone, the roof throughout being of one elevation, without any distinction between nave and chancel.

At the restoration, the Vicar, as at Langton, carved the pulpit, reading-desk, font cover, and desk for Communion table, in memory of his father, who was 50 years vicar. The font was formerly in the little chapel, or oratory, in the garden at Poolham Hall, previously referred to, and left there neglected. It is here restored to its original sacred purpose, and is supported by four handsome columns of serpentine, from the Lizard quarries, Cornwall, the gift of the Rev. J. A. Penny, vicar of Wispington. The church has two bells. Further details of Woodhall were given in a previous chapter, in describing the old moated Wood-Hall. It was at the farm close by the church that a well (also previously mentioned) was sunk to a depth of 33 feet, which tapped a saline spring, resembling, it was said, the Woodhall Spa water, but which soon lost its salt taste from the inrush of fresh water. {201} Beside a pond just outside the churchyard there is a very large ice-borne boulder, measuring about 4 feet in length, 4 feet in width, and 1 feet in thickness.

In an old charter "dated at Edlington on Wednesday next after the feast of St. Michael, 1285," by which William, son of William de Wvspington, grants to William Hardigrey of Edlington, clerk, certain properties, one of the witnesses is Aluered de Wodhalle, along with several others. This would probably be a descendant of Alured of Lincoln, who, in Domesday Book, is said to be possessed of 51 lords.h.i.+ps in Lincolns.h.i.+re, besides property in other counties. The last descendant died without male issue, 48 Henry III., leaving his three sisters his next heirs, and so the name perished.

We now retrace our steps as far as Langton mill, and there taking the road which branches off to the right, southward, we soon arrive at Thornton. The church, dedicated to St. Wilfrid (Archbishop A.D. 709), which replaced a mean structure, built about 1730 in the worst of styles, with flat plaster ceiling and wooden window frames with large square panes of gla.s.s, was entirely rebuilt in the Perpendicular style, and thoroughly well done, in 188990, by Canon J. Clare Hudson, vicar, and the leading paris.h.i.+oners, at a cost of 1,000. The only objects of any antiquarian interest are some quaint wrought-iron double crosses affixed to the north and south walls of the nave, having eight iron hat pegs on each. The font is modern, its bowl octagonal, with the monogram I.H.S.

and other devices on alternate sides. In the chancel are modern frescoes executed by Miss Alice Erskine, an amateur artist of much taste. The subject on the north wall is the visit of the Magi to the Infant Saviour, while on the wall to the south of the east window are representatives of the Archangels St. Michael and St. Gabriel. Gifts of handsome bra.s.s candlesticks for the Holy Table, and service books have recently been made by H. R. Elmhirst, Esq., and Mrs. Elmhirst. The Communion table is of Indian teakwood. We may here observe that the Records at Lincoln shew that there were rectors in this parish (though now a vicarage) in 1232 and downwards, and a list of the inc.u.mbents from that date to the present time has been compiled by Canon Hudson, and may be seen in the parish chest. The Parish Registers date from 1561. Among the gentry mentioned in the Registers as residents in the parish are several members of the very old county family of Maddison, who intermarried with the Dymokes.

In digging in the churchyard on the north-west of the old church, the base of the west tower of the pre-Reformation church was found, which was said also to have had two aisles. In the churchyard is a tombstone commemorative of Penelope Gunnis, who died in 1826, at the advanced age of 107 years. The western portions of this parish, which stretches from within 150 yards of St. Mary's Church, Horncastle, to within 100 yards of the Witham at Kirkstead wharf, are now included in the Civil parish of Woodhall Spa.

In the reign of the Conqueror the powerful Robert Despenser had in this parish eighty acres of meadow land, three hundred and fifty acres of wood, and two mills, with sokemen, velleins, and bordars; other land, with dependents, being owned by Gozelin, a va.s.sal of Alured of Lincoln, named above in connection with Woodhall. The Champion Dymoke is lord of the manor in the present day. A Roman urn, as has been stated elsewhere, was dug up in this parish when the railway was being constructed. The only public notice in connection with Thornton of an unusual character, in modern times, is the following, which appeared as an advertis.e.m.e.nt in the "Stamford Mercury" of January 5th, 1810:-SACRILEGE.-Whereas the Parish Church of Thornton, near Horncastle, has been lately broken open and a thin silver half-pint cup stolen out of the chest, any person giving information of the offender or offenders, shall, on conviction, receive from the paris.h.i.+oners of Thornton five guineas reward, and if there was an accomplice in the above sacrilege who will turn King's evidence, he shall, on conviction, have the above reward, and every endeavour will be used to obtain his Majesty's pardon.-"Lincs. N. & Q.,"

Oct., 1896.

In a list of gentry who furnished "launces and light horse" for the defence of the country in 1584, given in the Melbourn Hall MS., we find the name of Edward Dymmock, of Thornton, Gent., put down for "j light horse" for the master at Horncastle, and among those who were summoned for the Sessions there, according to another list, we again find Edward Dymmock of Thornton, Gent. ("Architect. S. Journal," vol. xxii., pt. ii., pp. 214 and 221). In a gra.s.s field, on the south side of the road through Thornton, there are mounds and hollows, indicating a large residence, which this Dymmock probably occupied.

Proceeding three quarters of a mile further southward, and pa.s.sing Martin Hall, we turn up a lane to the right and find the church of Martin, St.

Michael's, in a secluded spot, like many a flower born to blush unseen.

Yet it is worthy of a visit, having features of more than ordinary interest, which were well preserved on its partial restoration in 1869, and again by the late W. J. Gilliatt, of the Hall, and his sisters, in 1877. For many years it was a thatched edifice, but now has a slated roof. The south doorway is Early Norman, with broad, receding semi-circular arch, with a double band of zigzag moulding; on each side, Norman columns, with, quaint heads as capitals. The church is entered by two descending steps. The font is modern, Norman in style, the bowl having eight semi-circular fluttings, being supported by eight columns raised on a stone pediment. The west window is filled with good modern gla.s.s from Munich. The central subject is the Saviour's body being taken down from the Cross; the left subject is the Saviour bearing His Cross; the right, the body being borne away. This was a memorial, placed in the church by Miss Spalding, of Lincoln, commemorative of the Rev. J. B.

Smith, D.D., the rector, who, in returning from paying her a visit at Lincoln, fell out of his railway carriage at Kirkstead and broke his neck, although, strange to say, he lived for several weeks afterwards.

{204} In the north wall of the nave is a plain arched Easter sepulchre, which was probably the founder's tomb. The pulpit is of Caen stone, plain, and ma.s.sive; behind it is a curious semi-circular recess, in the east wall. The chancel arch is Early English, and very narrow, only 3ft.

9in. in width, which makes the chancel very dark, an effect further increased by the great thickness, 3ft. 4in., of the chancel arch wall.

The east window has two trefoiled lights, small and narrow, their total width only 2ft. 3in. In the south wall of the chancel are two deeply-recessed small square-headed windows, partly built up, and having a stone seat at the base, but too high for use. There are several flat tombstones of Hughsons and Oldhams in the floor. The Early Norman doorway and the ma.s.sive chancel arch wall and gloomy chancel are the special features of this interesting little church. At the time of the restoration, in 1877, the original large altar slab, decorated with four crosses, was found in the floor, face downwards. It was taken, up, and now forms the base, or dais, of the Communion table. The Parish Register commences with 1562. Under the year 1649 occurs this entry:-"This yeare ye lords.h.i.+p of Marton was inclosed; no consent of Bishop or Rector." The unusual name, "Ingelo," specially known in connection with the poem, "The Bells of Enderby," occurs frequently in the Registers from 1673 downwards. The names of Norreys Fynes, and other members of the family, resident at White-Hall, in this parish, occur frequently. There is an engraving of the church in the "Church of England Magazine" for 1849. We must not omit to mention that the fine fragment of brickwork called the "Tower on the Moor," and co-eval with Tattershall Castle, although now included in the Civil parish of Woodhall Spa, stands in what was part of Martin parish till 1897. There only remains the staircase of what was once a much larger structure. Leland says, "One of the Cromwelles builded a preaty turret caullid the Tour of the Moore: and thereby he made a faire greate pond or lake brickid about. The lake is commonly called the Synkker" (Itinerarium, vol. iv., p. 58).

Scott, the celebrated commentator, began his ministerial labours in this parish.

In early times. Martin was in the "soke" of Kirkby-on-Bain, i.e., it was under the jurisdiction of the lord of the manor of Kirkby, who, in the time of the Conqueror, was Eudo, son of Spirewick, the founder {205a} of the Tateshall, or Tattershall, family in Lincolns.h.i.+re. This Eudo, as Dugdale relates, {205b} with his sworn brother in arms, Pinso (though no blood relation), came into England with the Conqueror, and the two merited so well of him in that service that they obtained for recompense the lords.h.i.+p of Tattershall, with the hamlet of Thorpe, and town of Kirkby. He held direct from the king certain lands in Martin; and as the Clintons, shortly after the extinction of the Tattershall family, received their estates, this would be the way in which the Whitehall estate in Martin came to the Clintons.

Journeying on still southward, some mile and a half from Martin, we reach the parish of Roughton. The church has no pretensions to architectural beauty, being a mixture of brick and sandstone. It has nave, chancel, and castellated tower, and small castellated parapets at the north and south ends of the chancel wall; a large west door, and small priests'

door in the chancel. It was newly roofed and fitted with open oak benches in 1870, the chancel being then also paved with encaustic tiles, the tower opened to the nave, and most of the windows partly filled with stained gla.s.s. The font is plain, circular, upon a circular pediment; it has an old font cover, cupola shaped, octagonal, of oak, plain, except some slight carving round the rim. There are some fragmentary remains of a carved rood screen, and a plain old oak pulpit. In the chancel is a lengthy inscription, commemorative of Norreys Fynes, Esq., which has already been given to a previous chapter in connection with Fynes of Whitehall. There is also a mural tablet to the memory of the Rev. Arthur Rockliffe, who died in 1798; and another to Charles Pilkington, Esq., who died in 1798, and Abigail his wife, who died in 1817. The register dates from 1564, and is therefore a fairly good one, since parochial registers were only first enjoined in the reign of Henry VIII., 15301538. The registers contain some peculiar entries, and exhibit a remarkable orthography, if such a term can be applied to what would more correctly be called orthography. Of these entries one is as follows:-The churchyard fence was repaired by lengths in 1760, each paris.h.i.+oner (of any substance) taking a length; a list of their names is given, closing with the words "a piece to the Lord," i.e., the lord of the manor. In the year 16312 there were 43 burials; among them the rector, Randulph Woodinge, on Oct. 23nd; his daughter Ann, Oct. 23rd; and daughter Thomasine, Nov. 1st. There were two of the family of Carrot, two Lincolns, two Applebys, two Grogbys, three Hawards, two Burches, besides other single cases. Though it is not so specified, this would doubtless be the epidemic called "the Plague," or "Black Death."

An entry on "Aprill the 15 1707" gives "The Church More lying in Well sick cloase was leten for 4 & 6." This is moorland near Well Syke wood belonging to the church, from which peat was cut for church fuel; and two other entries refer to this practice: "Simon Grant of Dalderby for 1 days work of bages (i.e., sods) . . . 2 ,, 6." "Simon flinte for 1 days works of bages . . . 2 6." This was good pay according to the rate of wages in the early part of the 18th century, to which these entries refer. But it was "skilled" labour, and, moreover, hard work, as anyone will understand who remembers the instrument used on the moor forty years ago.

It was a large, flat, and broad kind of shovel at the end of a long pole with transverse handle a foot long, which was placed against the workman's waist or pit of his stomach, and he thus thrust the tool forward through the turf with the whole weight and force of his body.

Those who were much engaged in this kind of work usually suffered from rupture of the lower muscles of the body.

For some years before 1657 none but civil marriages were valid in law, and Justice Filkin is mentioned in the Register as marrying the Rector of Roughton, John Bancroft, to Ann Coulen. Persons were often married in the church, as well as before the Justice; the civil marriage was also often neglected, and the feeling was generally so strong that marriage should be a religious rite, that in the year 1657 marriage by the minister was allowed by Act of Parliament.