Three Years in Tristan da Cunha Part 16

_Sunday, January_ 12.--I was taking a stroll this afternoon and in crossing a rivulet stepped on a stone which toppled over, and I fell in.

My white serge skirt, which had just been washed, was caked with mud.

_Wednesday, January_ 15.--We have had high winds the last day or two and last night had quite a gale, the wind coming in strong gusts all night long. The garden has suffered considerably. The children lament over the destruction and go round propping up plants of their own accord.

_Sunday, January_ 19.--We have lost our last Cape canary through moulting; he was a beautiful singer. Yesterday afternoon we went some way up the mountain just above the settlement. We walked for some distance up the Goat Ridge, crossed a ravine to our left, and then got on to what is called the Pinnacle, where we had a view which was awe-inspiring. There lay before us two or three yawning chasms stretching away down the mountain side. I hardly liked to look at them. One was Hottentot Gulch, whose sides, here bare, there dotted with trees or ferns, went down sheer a thousand or more feet. When on higher ground and looking at the expanse of ocean one realizes more than ever how we are cut off from the rest of the world.

_Tuesday, January_ 21.--It is Lizzie Rogers' sixth birthday. She was very anxious to bring a present, and went round to try to get half-a-dozen eggs. Not being able to procure these, she brought us some cooked meat for supper. After having a game I sent her home, but she appeared again when her mother brought the milk. I did not know till afterwards that she wanted to stay the night and that her mother had literally to drag her away, poor little thing. She has long black eyelashes, from under which she looks out at one with a shy trusting look which is quite charming.

[Ill.u.s.tration: OUR BATHING PLACE (LITTLE BEACH)]

We had Betty Cotton and three of her contemporaries in to tea to-day and had quite a _recherche_ meal for them, chocolate mould and some dainty little scones. Most of the people are out of tea, so a cup of it is a treat to them. They stayed three hours, talking chiefly of old times and s.h.i.+pwrecks. One of their favourite stories is of a captain who lashed his wife and child to the rigging and then swam ash.o.r.e through the breakers.

But instead of remaining on the beach near the foundering s.h.i.+p so as to be at hand to help and rescue them he went off to the settlement five miles away and comfortably slept through the night, leaving the islanders to do the watching and rescuing. Our visitors always come in their best attire, and they like being invited into the inner parlour. Mrs. Martha Green went home and returned with a dozen and a half eggs.

_Thursday, January_ 23.--The poor penguins that land on this sh.o.r.e to moult have but a short life, for the dogs hunt them out at once. The other day we rescued one from Rob, who was dragging it from a small cave. It ran back and Graham piled up large stones at the mouth so that no dog could get at it. Each morning on our way to bathe we had a look at it and could see its white breast close to the aperture. But alas! one morning we found the bird gone. A boy had broken down the wall and his dog had killed the penguin. While penguins are moulting they require no other food than that with which Nature has provided them in a store of oil from which they can draw.

_Sunday, January_ 26.--The Repettos have been here this evening. They had some difficulty in getting in, for Rob saw them and took his stand on the doorstep, his hair bristling; they went round to the front and he ran round the other way to meet them. They are so kind to him he ought to have behaved better, but he does not approve of any one coming in the evening.

We read aloud Mr. Peck's Diary, _Two Years in Baffin Land_ in the _Intelligencer_, and they were much interested. They like coming and we are only too pleased to see them.

_Tuesday, January_ 28.--I think every one is now giving up all hope of seeing the schooner.

To-day John Gla.s.s and his wife gave a dinner to the whole island in honour of their one-year-old son. Ellen and I went. Everything was excellently arranged. We began with stuffed meat which was really very well cooked, then followed open berry-tarts with twisted bars across, open apple-tarts, and berry-pudding served with cream.

Yesterday Bob Green took Graham for a long-promised outing to the Caves, a spot in the mountain just above Big Beach and about a third of the way up to the Base. At one point, considered very dangerous because if a step is missed there must be a deadly fall, he insisted on roping him. We watched them with much interest both going and returning, as they wound their way in and out.

CHAPTER XXVI

_Thursday, January_ 30.--A small vessel has just been sighted. It looks so small that every one is wondering what it possibly can be. It is being well scanned through the telescope and is seen to be flying an English flag; in answer Repetto has run up ours. We have a faint hope that it may be bringing the mail. Later we sat for a long time on the cliff watching.

One of our boats went out but could not board her, for fear of being swamped. The vessel tacked, and when it got near our boat again dropped a bottle into the sea for our men. In it was a letter from the Captain saying that he wanted some fresh meat and other things and that he would come in again early to-morrow. The men think it must be a sealer.

_Friday, January_ 31.--No vessel appeared and we think it may have gone for good.

_Sat.u.r.day, February_ 1.--Early this morning the small vessel was again seen in the far distance and some hours later a boat from it landed the Captain's brother and two of the crew. The two latter were brought to us at the school. As they spoke only French the islanders did not know what else to do with them. I tried to carry on a conversation with them and learnt they were going to Kerguelen Island for sealing. They wanted to know if it was not rather "ennuyeux" here. The Captain's brother went to Repetto to arrange business and was afterwards brought to us. Meanwhile another vessel had been sighted and the men drew lots who should go out to it. Monsieur Rallier du Baty stayed and had lunch with us. He was such a pleasant gentlemanly man and most easy to talk to. I never talked so much French to any one before. Sometimes I got grounded. I understood him to say that his s.h.i.+p was being sent out by the French Government to Kerguelen for scientific research, that they intend staying there a year, and that they also hope to do some sealing. They had named their boat the _J. B.

Charcot_, after Dr. Charcot, with whom one of them had been on an Antarctic expedition. Graham asked him about two meteorological instruments which he has not been quite sure how to set, and he has very kindly showed him how to set them. M. Rallier told us after they left Cherbourg they met with very bad weather and had to put in to Brixham for repairs, by which they were delayed three weeks. From there they went on to Madeira, then to Rio Janeiro, and next touched here. He was much interested to know what had brought us to Tristan. He knew about the wreck of the _Blendon Hall_ and had pa.s.sed close to Inaccessible to view the scene of the wreck.

Our men boarded the other s.h.i.+p sighted, which proved to be a Norwegian one bound for Adelaide.

_Monday, February_ 3.--On Sat.u.r.day evening Repetto came in with some things which the French captain had very kindly sent us--potted meat, a tin of b.u.t.ter, jam which he specially sent word was from England, and also carrot, leek and onion seeds, which are particularly acceptable.

A s.h.i.+p was seen to-day, but the men did not go out. It came close in and I think the men were sorry afterwards they had not gone to it.

_Friday, February_ 7.--Yesterday Graham and Alfred began to cut the corn, and to-day, taking a holiday, finished it. I bound the sheaves and stood them up in shocks.

Part of the morning I spent in b.u.t.ter-making. I found the best method was to work with the churn standing in the stream, and after the b.u.t.ter came and was washed to leave it standing there. The result was very firm, good b.u.t.ter. As a rule Ellen does the churning.

This afternoon was given to thres.h.i.+ng wheat and a very slow process it was. A sail was spread in the field and I and the older boys tried to beat and rub the wheat out. In olden days the people threshed in their sitting-rooms. We also did a little winnowing, throwing the wheat up for the wind to blow the chaff away. I should think all our efforts did not produce more than a quarter of a bushel.

Just now the men are busy digging potatoes. They are finding a good deal of disease in them, but probably will have enough to last through the season, as they always sow more than they require.

_Sunday, February_ 9.--The other day at school a short piece from Mr.

Peck's journal was read to the children, who were told to write out what they could remember of it. One little girl of nine began, "Mr. Peck live in a bag." The fur bag that he slept in interested them far more than anything else. The Sunday cla.s.s of girls is very well attended, no girl staying away unless ill. It is difficult to get replies from some of them, but there are one or two who give very intelligent answers.

_Tuesday, February_ 11.--It is a thick misty day, but a s.h.i.+p is coming in.

The men have had such a rush to get off, some having run all the way from the Potato patches and arriving on the beach in a great state of heat. In a few minutes others appeared just as the second boat was going off, one so breathless he could not speak. But after all their efforts they failed to reach the s.h.i.+p, which kept too far out.

_Wednesday, February_ 12.--Last Sat.u.r.day all the school-children were turned into the wheat-field to help to thresh the wheat. Flails had been made by tying pieces of wood to cricket stumps. The boys beat the sheaves with great energy, especially the younger ones. Graham and I have spent our whole afternoon in thres.h.i.+ng and he is now winnowing by moonlight.

_Monday, February_ 17.--On Friday afternoon with the girls' help we finished thres.h.i.+ng the wheat and the next day winnowed it.

_Tuesday, February_ 18.--Mrs. Andrew Swain brought us this evening a few apples and four peaches. These are the first peaches we have seen; they are green, but will soon ripen. Her husband brought about half a bushel home, but the trees rarely bear; probably they are too old.

We had seriously thought this week of camping out near the ponds. For a tent we should have taken an old sail. The weather, however, has become so unsettled we have given up the idea.

_Thursday, February_ 20.--Graham ground a little wheat yesterday between two stones and I made a loaf of it, which he says is the best brown bread he has ever tasted.

We have just been taking a turn in the dusk, and on the way called at the Repettos' to find out the name of the owners of the _Greta Holme_, the steamer which has been here more than once. We think we may perhaps get it to call for us to take us home.

_Monday, February_ 24.--It is such a quiet evening, the lamps are lit and the windows are wide open and we can plainly hear the gurgling of the stream outside.

On Sat.u.r.day Charlie Green came in to say that he and his mother wish to go back to their house. It is the one in which we hold church and school.

After hearing what he had to say we told him to ask his mother to come and see us to-day, which she has done. She feels she must go back to her house and would like to move into it this week, and we feel we cannot say anything against it, for this is the fourth time she has given it up for the same purpose.

_Wednesday, February_ 26.--A meeting took place this morning at 7.30 to consider where church and school are now to be held. Lavarello first offered for his mother-in-law, Mary Gla.s.s, her room for school. Then followed a discussion as to where service should be held. Finally Repetto said they would be willing to give up their house entirely for church and school, they themselves living in the adjoining cottage, if they could put two of the girls out to sleep. It was agreed that if this could be arranged the school should be there.

We offered to Mrs. Repetto to take her two elder girls, but she had arranged for them to go to her mother. It is a sacrifice to the Repettos to give up their house, for they take real pride in it and they go out at great personal inconvenience, for they will have to live in two small rooms, one of which is his workshop. She spoke very nicely about it, saying they were doing it for G.o.d. She also spoke warmly of the Sunday services and said she could not think how any one could sit in church and not be touched by them. Nothing but illness keeps her away.

At the meeting the men agreed to build a church, and spoke of beginning it when the potato digging is over. They will put up the stonework and leave the roof till the next clergyman comes, and say they will put no fire-place in it and then no one can use it as a house. As there is no house for school we are having a holiday. We went yesterday to pack up the school things and found the men already at work putting up the part.i.tions.

Mrs. Green will benefit by the new window-panes and we are glad she should. We have enough left for the rooms into which the Repettos are going.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE OLD CHURCH HOUSE]

_Friday, February_ 28.--Men are working at Repetto's house to turn it into the school-chapel. This house is really the church of the island, as its history shows. It was built by a man named William Daley for himself. When Mr. Taylor the clergyman came it was bought for his church. It was valued at twenty-seven pounds, and nine men each gave three pounds. The nine were Corporal Gla.s.s, Alexander Cotton, Thomas Hill Swain, Peter Green, Richard Riley, Andrew Hagan, Charles Taylor, Peter Mellor(?), and William Daley, the owner. When Mr. Taylor left he told the people who remained they could do what they liked with the church. Thereupon the nine buyers or their representatives each claimed a three-pound share in it. The claim to these shares has been handed down. Miss Cotton claims one from her father, Martha Green one from her husband, the mother of Sam Swain, senior, one.

But Matilda Hagan, the daughter of Peter Green, is said to claim the most.

Repetto's workshop has been cleaned out, floored, and whitewashed, and looks quite nice. The ceiling is very low, so I have exhorted them to have their bedroom window open at night as she feels the need of air since her heart-attacks. He has just brought in a large bureau made by himself and which he has asked us to house. Our room is already packed, but we have been able to find a place for it by turning out a table which will be useful at school.

_Sat.u.r.day, February_ 29.--To-day all the men, with the exception of three, went off to Inaccessible for sealing. We are now having beautiful weather.

_Tuesday, March_ 3.--To-day a s.h.i.+p was in sight and we were regretting there was no boat to go out to her, all four having been taken to Inaccessible. But presently we heard that two boats from Inaccessible were to be seen in the distance. These got alongside the s.h.i.+p, which was an Italian one, but the captain would not stop. All the men have now returned. They secured eleven seals and think they could have got more, but were afraid to stay longer for fear of missing s.h.i.+ps. They brought some plants back.

_Ash-Wednesday, March_ 4.--All the men and a good many women went off to-day in three boats to Sandy Point to gather apples and are spending the night there.

Caroline Swain came to tea.

_Thursday, March_ 5.--We have begun daily service and hope to continue it as long as we are here.