Three Years in Tristan da Cunha Part 21

They seemed to be hesitating about going, but were only waiting for the right moment to get off. When they did push off the last men who scrambled in got wet up to their waists and for one moment the boat pitched so it looked as if it would turn over, but in a minute or two it was in safer, though still rough, waters. The second boat got off better. Mr. Keytel and Repetto signalled to the men on the ketch to put out to sea on account of the weather. They were in need of water, but it was too rough to take any off to them. Later it got much rougher and a mist came over the sea. The boats had been seen returning from the s.h.i.+p, but afterwards had been lost sight of. As they did not appear in the afternoon it was thought they had landed to the east of Big Point, and would come home by land, and this was so. At about 4.30 smoke was seen on the mountain side; and soon the women hurried out with tea. We followed, and somehow felt sure that it was a s.h.i.+p that had called before, and that we might possibly get letters by it.

The first men we met told us that the s.h.i.+p had come to fetch us, which was a great surprise. The captain had hove to all night, and said he could give us four hours to come out, but the men told him it would not be possible because of the weather; as it was, one boat had two of its boards broken and very nearly had to return. Next we heard the joyful news that our surmise was right and that there were letters for us. The post-bag was soaked and some of its contents, but not our letters. We returned with the people, and pa.s.sing Mr. Keytel's house and seeing him at the door told him the news. He insisted on our going in and having a cup of tea. When we got back we were able to sit down and read our precious letters. I had four; getting news of home seems to bring one so much nearer to it. The men got a good deal of food-stuff from the s.h.i.+p, and, indeed, they are in need of it for they are living on meat only at present.

_Tuesday, October_ 27.--They got 300 lbs. of flour, also rice, tea, sugar and soap.

There was a missionary on board who we understood from the men knew Graham, but sometimes they get a little mixed. Henry Green brought us as a present from the captain some Brown Windsor soap and a bottle of unfermented wine. Had it been fine the captain intended coming ash.o.r.e.

_Thursday, October_ 29.--The ketch arrived late yesterday evening, having taken all Tuesday and Wednesday to get in. The Pearsons have been on sh.o.r.e to-day and have filled their water-barrels. The captain and the architect dined with us, and the latter spent the afternoon with us. He is an interesting man and has been giving his advice about the stone which should be used for the church and house. He is strong upon the point that houses ought always to be built, when possible, of the material of the place, as that naturally, and, therefore, best, suits the landscape. His view is that nature will do much even where there is no beauty in the local stone itself. He thinks that mountains influence character, and that the people here have melancholy-looking faces which he attributes to the mountains. To an outsider, perhaps, the faces of many of the people do look thoughtful and sad, but their faces are hardly an index of their character.

_Friday, October_ 30.--Four of the islanders, Henry Green, Repetto, Andrew Hagan and Bill Green have been building a new boat which was launched this afternoon. Two new boats are also being built by others. The boats are built entirely of driftwood with the exception of the ribs; for these the wood of the apple-tree is used, unless oak can be had from a whaler. Over the ribs are laid horizontal pieces of wood called slabbies, over which is nailed canvas which is oiled and painted. Henry's boat, the largest yet made, is twenty-two feet long.

_Sunday, November_ 1.--We have had quite a summer-like day. The ketch party including the Creole came ash.o.r.e early, and the Pearsons came to service and had dinner with us afterwards. We could just manage to sit round the table. Sitting in the garden in the afternoon I was joined by the architect who sat on the gra.s.s and discoursed. Soon we were called to tea, the two younger men having arrived, who were followed by the captain.

They seemed to enjoy the home life and did not leave till after dusk. They have given much pleasure by presenting John Gla.s.s with a clock and Repetto with a watch.

_Tuesday, November_ 3.--We asked the Pearsons to dinner as it was the twenty-first birthday of the youngest, and also to tea, for which had been made a special dough-cake which was much appreciated. To-morrow they intend going to Inaccessible to get samples of guano.

_Wednesday, November_ 4.--I began looking over things preparatory to packing, but did not get through much for two visitors appeared, Martha Green with eggs and Ruth to have her finger poulticed. The four from the ketch had tea with us.

_Friday, November_ 6.--Yesterday we had quite a home-like scene--afternoon tea in the garden at the architect's suggestion. He told me that once in London his weekly food-bill was only two s.h.i.+llings and sevenpence, the result of studying the nouris.h.i.+ng values of different food-stuffs, of having no meat and of being his own cook. Presently the two younger men joined us and sat on the gra.s.s round the tea-tray. In the early hours of this morning they were off to Inaccessible, taking with them Repetto to show them where to find the guano.

This week I have not been to school but have devoted my time to sorting things and packing, and a great business it has been in these small quarters.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NEARLY FINISHED]

_Monday, November_ 9.--Graham was _hors de combat_ on Sunday with one of his headaches, so I had to take the services. I spoke out plainly about the attendance at church, though only by the way, and said it showed how little they cared about the things of G.o.d, and that we could not help asking ourselves if we had been any real help to even one person on Tristan.

This afternoon I gave up to gardening. Just as Ellen and I had planted out some tomatoes Mr. Keytel brought some mignonette plants and put them in.

He brought also a sample of a loaf he had cooked which he thought was quite a triumph.

_Thursday, November_ 12.--On Tuesday the ketch returned from the islands and has again anch.o.r.ed. I think the Pearsons are loath to take to sea again. The architect has most kindly drawn a plan for a church here, and I only wish we could carry it out.

We are gradually getting on with the work of packing, and have made lists of what is to be put by when we are gone.

I have taken rather a good view of the front of the house and want to print it on postcards to send home, but this takes time and I have little to spare in the morning.

_Friday, November_ l3.--Our letters are to be taken on board to-day, for with the first north wind the ketch will move out. We wonder when it will reach Cape Town, for we fear it will be a long time on the way. While it has been here there has been a remarkable spell of fine weather.

_Sunday, November_ 15.--The Pearsons have not gone yet. They landed to-day though it was somewhat rough, came to service, and had dinner with us.

_Wednesday, November_ 18.--Our visitors have gone. They came in yesterday to say good-bye. I had to go to the women's meeting, but was back in time to pour out tea for them, after which we saw them off from Big Beach. The ketch, which was called _Forget-me-not_, had anch.o.r.ed off the settlement eighteen days and within half-a-mile of the sh.o.r.e. This was a record for Tristan waters.

Here is a note about vessels and Tristan given by Repetto and which he is very anxious should find its way into the newspapers: If a vessel in moderate weather comes in sight of the island just before nightfall and is recognized from the sh.o.r.e and is seen to be coming in the direction of the settlement, the boats from the island are sure to go off to meet it. The Master of the vessel will see a light on sh.o.r.e which many s.h.i.+ps take to be a lighthouse; but it is not a lighthouse but a fire lit by the islanders to tell the s.h.i.+p that the boats have gone off to it. The Master of any s.h.i.+p that at night sees this fire is asked to show a white light as a guide to the boats to steer by. In the daytime when a s.h.i.+p sees smoke on the island it may know that the boats are coming out to her.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE KETCH (Length, TS/t. Beam, lift. Draught, 9/1.)]

CHAPTER x.x.xIII

_Friday, November_ 20.--Last night Mr. Keytel had a meeting of all the men, at which he asked Graham to be present as he wanted him to hear everything. He had drawn up an agreement to work for him for three years, which he invited all the men to sign except Bob Gla.s.s, with whom he will have no dealings. He spoke very plainly to the men and told them they had not been straightforward with him. To name one thing, they had never told him the sheep had scab. As a consequence the sheep sent to the Cape will no doubt have to undergo treatment and be a large expense. At his request Graham read the agreement aloud and explained it. All signed it. Mr.

Keytel warned them that if any one broke the agreement he could be put into prison; whereupon some one asked if the prison would be here. "No,"

said Mr. Keytel; "Cape Town!"

This afternoon I took the girls of the knitting cla.s.s for a picnic. When notice of it was given out in school I could see a smile of pleasure coming over their faces. Still, they take their pleasures solemnly. Nearly all appeared with knitting in their hands. Arrived at our destination, where we had a lovely view of red rocks jutting out into the sea, they all sat solemnly down in a row save Charlotte, who set to to make the fire and boil the water. After tea we hid chocolate in the gra.s.s, the finding of which they much enjoyed.

_Tuesday, November_ 24.--Last week we sent round to each family all the clothing we could spare; and to-day we had Miss Cotton to tea to show her the various things in the house she is to have.

Yesterday Graham, Mr. Keytel, Repetto and H. Green were to have started upon an expedition round the island, but the weather changed. If they do not get off this week Graham will not go, because a vessel might call for us, though we do not expect one so early.

_Wednesday, November_ 25.--This afternoon Graham and I, accompanied by five little girls, went towards the potato patches. Graham is measuring their distances from the settlement. He measured the first mile the other day, and when we came to the spot I painted on a large rock 1 MILE. We went on and measured a second mile, which was also marked, and then it was time to return. The children were delighted to help by holding the line and were as frolicsome as kittens.

_Thursday, November_ 26.--This morning Graham, hearing from Repetto that it was not thought a good day for the expedition, as it would be rough for landing on the other side, determined to start off by himself on foot. He packed his food in a biscuit-tin, round which he rolled his overcoat, and put the bundle into an island knapsack. This knapsack is rather ingeniously made out of a sack by fastening to each of the bottom corners one end of a stout round band usually made of canvas stuffed with wool.

Around the middle of this band is tied string, which ties the mouth of the sack and at the same time fastens the band to the mouth. In this way are formed two loops through which the arms go and which make excellent shoulder-straps. With this slung on his back he set forth, going west. In the afternoon, just as Ellen and I were starting forth to spend it in the open, Maria Green came to say her father did not like the thought of Graham having gone alone and that he was going to follow him. It was rather a relief to my mind as the mountain is dangerous in places. We went west and I sat down to sketch. Before very long we saw Henry and Tom coming quickly along on their donkeys and with knapsacks. I was glad of the opportunity of telling them how I appreciated their kindness.

When we got back we had one caller after another; some brought fish, another eggs, and another wool; we had seven visitors in all. I think perhaps it was a return for some soap which we had sent round yesterday.

At last we were able to have supper, but bread had to be made before we could settle down for the evening.

I am making a blue serge dress for Little Lizzie and tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the sleeves with narrow white tape.

_Sat.u.r.day, November_ 28.--Graham returned to-day having thoroughly enjoyed the expedition; but he did not get round the island as he had hoped to do, for his left knee gave way the first day. Probably the weight of his knapsack (21 lbs.) had something to do with this. He was overtaken early that evening by the two men, who went the short way round the Bluff through the sea. They got to Seal Bay that night and slept outside the usual cave by their fire, Graham's bed being two planks. Next day they went to Stony Beach about four miles further on and which I believe, is the most beautiful part of the island. There is a great deal of gra.s.s-land and quite a forest of trees. The two men did the cooking and insisted upon carrying Graham's knapsack. Early that morning Henry saw quite a new bird which he said looked like a woman standing straight up. Graham says it resembled a stork. The second night they slept inside the cave, which they cleaned out, and having dried the tussock in the sun had softer beds.

Coming home, for the first time Graham rounded the Bluff, wading waist-deep.

I went to-day to see Ruth, who has been ill for a month with mumps, and the last two days has taken to her bed; her neck is very much swollen.

_Monday, November_ 30.--Yesterday at noon a s.h.i.+p appeared and proved to be a whaler. All the men went out to her. Graham was in hopes he would get a letter from home, which he did, and I got one from an old friend of the islanders. Two of the islanders also got letters from relations in America. We hear that there is no likelihood of a s.h.i.+p calling for us.

Mr. Keytel has, however, very kindly offered us pa.s.sages in the _Greyhound_, which he expects about March 20. It is a comfort that our plans are thus made a little more definite. Now we know that no s.h.i.+p will call for us in December we are thinking of spending a week at Stony Beach.

The captain of the whaler ordered a good deal: a bullock, sheep, forty fowls, geese, and one hundred bushels of potatoes.

_Wednesday, December_ 2.--The people are pleased with their bartering. I believe they have eight barrels of flour, a large quant.i.ty of biscuits, and a barrel of mola.s.ses. After they had supplied him the captain told them that two more whalers would be calling.

This afternoon Mrs. Susan Swain came to tea. She was a St. Helenian and was brought here as a young married woman. She told us how home-sick she was at first.

_Friday, December_ 4.--Just after service Lily Swain ran down to ask me to go and see Ruth as the swelling on her neck had burst. The swelling turned out to be an abscess, which was discharging freely. She has made very little of what she has suffered, only complaining of pain and of her neck being too tender to be touched.

This afternoon Graham has been whitewas.h.i.+ng as we were anxious to leave the house in good order.

_Thursday, December_ 10.--Yesterday the men went over to Seal Bay and shot five oxen, so they are well set up in meat for some time to come. They salt it down. To-day they have been working for Mr. Keytel putting a roof on an old boat-house to be used as a store for fish. All being well, they start fis.h.i.+ng next Monday. The green fly is not as bad this month as it will be next.

Poor Rob has had a bad bite in his side--a three-cornered tear. Pie brought it upon himself, as he seized a bone from another dog. I thought it ought to be sewn up, and showed it to Mr. Keytel, who was of the same opinion, and to my great relief offered to do it. He sewed the edges together most successfully, and although it was hard work forcing the needle through the skin, Rob behaved admirably.

_Friday, December_ 11.--Rob licked himself to such an extent last night that he opened the wound. We put a bandage round him, but he soon pushed it aside to lick, so we have had to leave the wound to him and nature.

_Monday, December_ 14.--We are busy making children's garments for Christmas.

A s.h.i.+p pa.s.sed to-day and put up a red flag, which we took to mean that it wanted to communicate with the island, but unfortunately it was too rough for the men to put out. The sea was covered with "white horses"--"caps,"

as they are called here.

_Wednesday, December_ l6.--To-day the men started on the fis.h.i.+ng business.

They went off in their five boats about five o'clock, were out about five hours and did exceedingly well. Each boat-load was laid separately on the s.h.i.+ngle. Then Mr. Keytel went from heap to heap and showed the women how to treat the fish. Each fish has to be slit open, cleaned, then slit twice again. The men helped by cutting off the heads. About fifteen hundred fish were thus dealt with. After they had been cleaned and slit they had to be washed. They were then carted up to the storehouse on the top of the cliff to be salted. Salt had to be thoroughly rubbed into each one, which took a long time. Lastly, they will be placed in barrels where they will be left till to-morrow, when, if fine, they will be hung up to dry. The drying process takes about three days. The people were working till almost dusk.