Every Boy's Book: A Complete Encyclopaedia of Sports and Amusements Part 88

MISSISSIPPI.

This is a variation of the game by means of a wooden perforated bridge, each arch of which bears a particular number. The bridge is placed close up to the circle, and each player strikes up one ball; he who gets the highest number takes the lead, and plays the nine b.a.l.l.s successively.

The b.a.l.l.s must strike one of the cus.h.i.+ons previous to entering the bridge, otherwise the number will be scored to the adversary. The game may be played 30, 60, or 100 up, as may be agreed on.

BILLIARDS.

Of all indoor games, billiards ranks highest. It is without doubt the king, and reigns triumphant over chess, backgammon, parlour croquet; and since those delightful miniature billiard tables have been introduced, it is rapidly superseding bagatelle as a parlour game. These miniature tables possess all the advantages of the larger and more aristocratic tables. The same principles operate, the practice is similar, and the laws which govern the play are alike; need it be a matter of wonder that billiards is fast becoming as popular and universal as it is excellent?

When a boy first tries his hand at billiards, he is generally confounded by the apparently erratic conduct of the b.a.l.l.s. They are apt to diverge into the strangest places, and somehow manage to remain precisely in those spots where a practised player can make a good break from them.

This arises first from the want of a knowledge of the laws which regulate moving bodies, the general principles of billiards, and an acquaintance with the various "strokes," and the effects they produce.

Thus to become a good billiard-player requires a nicety of touch, a good eye, and sound judgment. These are to be acquired if the player attends to the following principles and points of the game.

Most boys are aware that billiards is played on an oblong table twelve feet long by six feet wide, inside the cus.h.i.+ons: the smaller tables preserve these general proportions. In France, for instance, the table is some four feet by eight feet, and without pockets, it being used solely for the cannon game; but English tables have invariably six pockets, one at each corner and two at the sides. No good table is now made without a slate bed, perfectly level, and covered with fine green cloth. The old list cus.h.i.+ons are now superseded by those made of vulcanized india-rubber, which not only resists the deteriorating influence of the weather, but increases the "speed" of the table. The surface of the cloth is marked with three "spots." The first "spot" is placed about twelve inches from the upper end or top of the table, and is known as "_the_ spot." The second is placed two feet six inches from the top, and the third is in the centre of the table. Two feet six inches from the bottom of the table is the "baulk line," on which is inscribed a semicircle, called the "striking point," shown on figs. 4 to 7. The position of the semicircle is also marked by three spots, one at each end and one at the centre.

The moveable adjuncts to the table are cues, b.a.l.l.s, b.u.t.t, and a rest or jigger. With respect to these one or two words of advice. See that your cue is well balanced; beware of fancy cues; let the leathered tip be moderately broad, and keep it always well chalked. The b.a.l.l.s are perfect spheres turned out of the centre of the tusk. It may be mentioned that the ordinary length of a cue is four feet nine inches, and the diameter of "match b.a.l.l.s" is two inches and a sixteenth. The "b.u.t.t" is a stiff, thick cue, well leathered at the b.u.t.t end, and is used occasionally for pus.h.i.+ng the ball when it is necessary to come off a cus.h.i.+on at an exact angle. The uses of the "rest" and long cues are obvious.

Ere touching on the game itself, there are a few essential points which claim the attention of a young player. They are these: 1. The attainment of a good position. 2. The making of a firm "bridge." 3. The acquirement of a good, easy, but firm, stroke. The last two essentials depend in a great measure on the first. It is obvious that the billiard player requires an easy play for his right arm, and firmness in his left to give solidity to the "bridge." To ensure this he must stand firmly on his right leg, so that it supports the weight of his body. The left leg should be placed slightly in advance, and pressed gently to balance the body only. This will throw additional weight on the left arm, which rests on the table, and leave the right arm free. If the position is a good one, the left leg may be lifted from the floor without disturbing the body. To form the "bridge," the left hand must be first extended on the table, and the fingers drawn up straight towards the wrist, so as to elevate the knuckles. If well done, the tips of the fingers, the wrist, and ball of the thumb will touch the table. The point of the thumb must be then kept slightly apart from the fingers to form a groove, in which the cue can rest, as shown in fig. 1.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 1.--THE BRIDGE.]

The bridge should be formed almost six inches from the ball. To strike well, surely, and firmly, the cue must be held in the grasp of the right hand. This is essential, for unless the cue is so held it will be impossible to make a good, and therefore a sure, stroke. All fancy modes of holding the cue by the tips of the fingers should be avoided. The cue may be laid on the groove of the bridge, and drawn back, and then firmly and steadily send it forward in a straight line, keeping the right hand well down behind you, so that the force of the blow comes from the shoulder, not the elbow. The eye must be educated to guide the hand, and, hit or miss, the stroke should be given at once. There should be no hesitation, no see-sawing of the cue to and fro, and no violent motions whatever. The body should be so placed as to give firmness to the bridge, ease to the right arm--which should be kept straight, with the point of the cue slightly above the surface of the cloth--and a general freedom from constraint, which is highly essential to success.

The best method of practice for a young beginner is to place a ball before his cue and strike it firmly and gently into different pockets, or at different marked points of the cus.h.i.+on, until he can pocket the ball and hit a given point with freedom and precision. The ball must be fairly struck with the tip of the cue, not pushed or jerked forward; and hence it will be necessary to draw back the point of the cue five or six inches ere striking the ball. The stroke, though firm, must not be violent, lest the natural angles of the table should be destroyed. If the ball is watched carefully after it has struck the cus.h.i.+on, it will be found to return at an exactly equal angle to the one at which it was struck. In other words, "the angle of reflexion is equal to the angle of incidence." This is the first and most important rule of billiards, and one that should never be forgotten. The variation of the strength and direction of the stroke will be found to materially affect this law, and enables the skilled player to make those formidable and seemingly impossible strokes which secure him his victory. This peculiarity of the angles is best ill.u.s.trated, and the practice of the student advanced, by placing another ball at a little distance before the player, which we will call the object ball. If we place them in a line with one of the marked places on the cus.h.i.+on, and strike the first ball fair in the centre, and cause it to strike the object ball full,--if this is done, it will strike the marked spot, and come off at the same angle as your first ball would have done.

For the purposes of play the object ball is divided thus:--

[Ill.u.s.tration: 1. Full Ball.

2. Three-quarter Ball.

3. Half Ball.

4. Quarter Ball.

5. Eighth Ball.

6. Very fine Ball.

FIG. 2.--DIVIDING THE OBJECT BALL.]

Fig. 2, No. 1, shows the object ball struck full, fig. 2, No. 2, the three-quarter ball, and so on. The half ball is the most important in practice, as by it the natural angle is made, an angle that is of the greatest importance at billiards, though each have their particular uses, which the young player should endeavour to understand. He will find that the b.a.l.l.s diverge at different angles, more or less acute, according as the object ball is struck "full" or "fine;" the fine ball being precisely the reverse of the three-quarter ball.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 3.--THE PLAYER'S BALL DIVIDED FOR THE SIDE-STROKE.]

There are many ordinary hazards and cannons which can be made by simply dividing the object ball, but the motion which the striking ball obtains after contact with the object ball will be modified by the position of the cue and the manner in which it is struck. First let us take the position of the cue. For the full centre stroke or straight hazard the ball must be struck well in the centre, and produce what is termed _the r.e.t.a.r.d_, or stop ball, if the object ball is struck full likewise. If the striker's ball is struck considerably above its centre, it produces the _following stroke_. To make the ball _jump_, it must be struck sharply on the top with a "downward, forward motion," and this, if carefully done, will cause the ball to jump over a neighbouring and intervening ball. When the ball is struck low, it produces _the recoil_, and the striker's ball will return from the object ball to the player.

This leads the beginner to the greatest of all modern improvements in the game, the _side-stroke_. It is found that it is much easier to divide the striker's ball with accuracy than the object ball, but when both b.a.l.l.s are divided with judgment the highest scientific play is obtained. The application of _side_ and twist to the striker's ball is often misapplied by beginners, and is frequently the cause of mischievous results; for all students should remember that "the harder you strike the b.a.l.l.s the more rapidly they fly apart;" and frequently a modification of the strength of the stroke will achieve the desired result better than the application of "side," which may fail. It should always be remembered that the ball must be struck on the side on which it is intended to go after contact with the object ball, and that the effect is not produced until after it has come in contact with another ball or the cus.h.i.+on. It is used for the same purpose as the division of the object ball, and accomplishes the same object. In order that it may be properly understood we give in fig. 3 the player's ball divided for the side-stroke.

The student can only acquire a knowledge of the effect of the strokes given at these varied points by practice, or from the instruction of an expert teacher; all that a writer can do is to lay down well-defined and easily-understood axioms, rules, and cautions. Thus, if the ball is struck at _c c_, at the top, it becomes the following ball; at the bottom _c c_, a recoil; at _f f_ it will give a strong side to the ball at the lower angles, the screw or twist, which causes the b.a.l.l.s to twist back; the upper angles will give high right-hand side or left-hand side, according to the side they are struck.

THE ANGLES OF THE TABLE

Should never be forgotten. They change infinitely, and if the student has made good use of the hints given as to the elementary practice with one ball, he will have acquired some valuable information, and soon see the truth of the axiom, that the "angle of reflexion is equal to the angle of incidence;" and the advantage of a knowledge of the angles of the table will be best seen in making cannons, for many players will make them off one, two, three, and even four cus.h.i.+ons.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 4.--ANGLES OF THE TABLE.]

Fig. 4 shows a series of very useful angles, which may be advantageously studied. The black lines represent the course of the ball before reverberation, the dotted lines its course after the first reflexion, and the faint lines its course after the second reflexion. In these examples the ball is supposed to be struck fairly in the centre with moderate force, except in case 1, where the effects of different strengths is shown. An ordinary, moderate stroke would bring the ball into the left-hand corner pocket, while a harder stroke would produce the angles _a b_: if played with greater strength the angles _c d_ will result. "_Bricole_" angles are made across the table, and are of course proportionately more acute. The _Bricole_ game is being obliged to strike a cus.h.i.+on, and make the ball reverberate or recoil from it previous to hitting the adversary's ball. This is a very great disadvantage, and is used princ.i.p.ally in "_cramp games_," where the advantage of one player is neutralized by this; or by playing cannons against cannons and hazards, or four pockets to two, or five to one, or cannons and winning hazards against the whole game.

All strokes at billiards are distinguished by the name of cannons or hazards. Cannon is a contraction of _carambole_, and is a stroke in which the player strikes both b.a.l.l.s in succession with his own. The "losing hazard" is when the player's own ball is forced into either of the six pockets, after contact with the other ball. The "winning hazard"

is made by forcing the ball played upon into either pocket after contact.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 5.--CANNONS.]

Here are a few examples of cannons made from the cus.h.i.+on, without the use of the side-stroke. They only indicate the infinite variety that can be made.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 6.--WINNING HAZARDS.]

Some rather difficult, but useful, _winning hazards_ are shown in fig.

6. The stroke A is termed the "spot stroke." This stroke is sometimes made a score or more times in succession by a good player. It is one of the best of winning hazards. It requires a nearly full ball of moderate strength, and to repeat it from one side to the other you should slightly divide your own ball by putting on a little side (see D _e_ in fig. 3); and you will find your ball in the right position to repeat the stroke. Sometimes it may be made by a slow hoist, which causes the ball to come back to the starting-point; or the ball may be stopped a little behind the object ball, and thus make a succession of hazards from the same pocket. The champion billiard-player, Roberts, makes tremendous breaks from the "spot stroke." Get a good player to show the variety of ways in which it can be made, and practise it. Here are a few examples of the effect of dividing the object ball. Strokes 1 to 14 are made from the baulk into the top end pockets by dividing the object ball from a nearly full ball, as in 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to an eighth in 1 and 9.

Stroke 5 represents a half ball vulgarly called a pair of breeches.

Stroke 11 should be made to hug the cus.h.i.+on. Strokes 15 and 16 must be played gently with a half ball, and 17 with a quarter ball. Strokes 18 to 33 show a variety of cuts made by striking the ball in the direction shown by the line between the white ball and the red.

Now for a few _losing hazards_. They require a little different treatment. Here are a few.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 7.--LOSING HAZARDS.]

The first eight strokes require a screw, and more or less side, according to their position; 9, 10, 11, and 12 require strong side, as shown; and in 13 the striker's ball must first strike the cus.h.i.+on gently, rebound, hit the other ball, and fall into the corner pocket.

Stroke 14 is an ugly position for a beginner, yet it frequently occurs.

You must put on plenty of side to your own ball, which will remove the object ball, and your ball will then roll along the cus.h.i.+on into the pocket. Stroke 22 alone requires a word in explanation. It shows now the losing hazard is made from baulk off the red on the spot. Put on a strong-side twist, and practise it well. Remember that practice can alone make perfect. Be always decided, play steadily, and do not lose your temper.

Now for a few hints with respect to the games to be played. With every billiard table a set of rules is supplied, and these must be studied and obeyed, as regulating the game; but an endless variety of games may be extemporised to suit the various parties and skill of the professors.

THE AMERICAN GAME

Is played with four b.a.l.l.s, a light red, or pink, and dark red. The b.a.l.l.s are placed on the spots in the centre between the pockets. The baulk is not confined to the semicircle, but you can place your ball anywhere within the line which is extended level with the winning-hazard spot.

The game is usually played 63 up, and consists of winning hazards and cannons. In this game "doubles" are of great advantage. Doubles are so called when a player strikes his own or an object ball at a certain angle of the cus.h.i.+on, so as to cause it to come off at an equal angle and go into a pocket at the opposite side of the table. It is called a "double double" if the ball returns and goes into a pocket on the side of the table it first struck; and there is a game in which no score is made unless the cus.h.i.+on is first struck with the ball.

PYRAMIDS, OR PYRAMID POOL,

Is played with fifteen red and one white ball. The red b.a.l.l.s are arranged in a triangle, thus:--

o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

The first ball is placed on the winning-hazard spot. The white ball is placed in baulk. The game is placed by holing all the red b.a.l.l.s. A great deal will depend in this on keeping the white ball safe, so that your adversary may have to play a cramp stroke. It is a pretty game to play with friends. Pyramids can be so modified as to suit a number of players, each striking in succession, and scoring according to the number of b.a.l.l.s pocketed. A small stake is placed on each ball to give an interest in the game. When played in this manner, the winner who scores the greatest number takes the stakes.