The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 24

FLORENTIA, ADVENTU FRIDERICI IV. DANIae ET NORVEGIae, AUGUSTI, FELICIS, QUOD EAM SUA PRaeSENTIA MAGNUS HOSPES IMPLEVERIT, AUGUSTA FELIX, AN. S. 1708. MENSE MARTIO.

'Twas the late Great Duke _Cosmo_ who caus'd this to be engrav'd to the Honour of the King of _Denmark_.

The City of _Florence_ has been so well describ'd that I shall pa.s.s very briefly over all that relates to the Buildings. The Square call'd _Piazza del Gran Duca_ or the old Palace, contains Ornaments enough to embellish a great Town. Here you see a s.p.a.cious Fountain which _Cosmo_ I. caus'd to be built after the Designs of _Amminati_ and _Philip Baldinucci_, two of the most famous Sculptors at that Time. Not far from this Fountain is the Equestrian Statue of _Cosmo_ I. which is rais'd upon a great Pedestal of white Marble, with this Inscription engrav'd on the chief Front of it:

COSMO MEDICI, MAGNO ETRURIae DUCI PRIMO, PIO, FELICI, INVICTO, JUSTO, CLEMENTI, SACRae MILITIae PACISQUE IN ETRURIA AUTHORI, PATRI ET PRINCIPI OPTIMO, FERDINANDUS F. MAG. DUX III. EREXIT, AN. CI[REVERSED C] I[REVERSED C] Lx.x.xXIIII.

On the other three Sides of the Pedestal are very fine Bas-Reliefs of Bra.s.s. The first represents _Cosmo_ I. recogniz'd for Sovereign by the Senate of _Florence_; the second the Ceremony of _Cosmo_'s Coronation, and the third the same _Cosmo_ in an antique triumphant Car making his pompous Entry into _Sienna_, which was submitted to his Government.

_Ferdinand_ I. _de Medicis_ when he erected this Statue to the Honour of his Father, employ'd in the Direction of it the famous _John Bologna_, who has very well answer'd the Opinion that had been conceiv'd of him.

In the Great Duke's Gallery near the Square, I saw the greatest Curiosities, both among the Antients and Moderns. A Busto of _Alexander_ the Great, the famous Statue of _Venus_, cut by _Apollodorus_, with those of the Emperors and Empresses of _Rome_, and the greatest Personages of former Centuries; the best Originals of the greatest Painters; and a thousand uncommon things, such as Diamonds, Rubies, Pearls, Emeralds, Saphirs, Topazes, Amber, Porcellain, Crystal, Porphyry, Coral, Marble, and Granite, the Particulars of which wou'd form a Volume. They are actually engraving on Plates, and several Persons of Quality are contributing to the Expence of this fine Work, which is considerable, and for which excellent Designers are employ'd. This wou'd have been worthy of the Great Duke, and it seems to me that this Prince when he sees his Family extinct, and his Estate pa.s.s into the hands of Foreigners, ought at least to eternize the Glory of his Ancestors by publis.h.i.+ng an Inventory of the immense Wealth which they have acquired, and transmitted to their Posterity.

Of all the Churches in _Italy_ there are none more magnificent as to the outside than the Dome of _Milan_, and the Cathedral of _Florence_, both which are entirely lin'd with Marble of various Colours. A Citizen of _Florence_, who pretended to know the History of this City perfectly well, a.s.sur'd me that its Cathedral was built out of the Impost of five _Sous_ which had been laid upon every Piece of Cloth that was then sold at _Florence_; but I believe you may without Breach of Charity take this for a Story.

Over against the Cathedral is the magnificent Baptistery, to which there's an Entrance thro' three Gates of Bra.s.s, so artfully wrought that _Michael Angelo_ said they were good enough to be the Gates of Paradise.

St. _Laurence_'s Chapel, which is not yet finish'd, is the Admiration of all Connoisseurs, and is design'd to be the Place for the Burial of the Great Dukes, whose Remains are to be deposited in a Mausoleum of wonderful Workmans.h.i.+p, adorn'd with precious Stones. 'Tis 150 years ago that this Chapel has been building, and yet it wants two Thirds of being finish'd.

If it were lawful to criticise the Conduct of Princes, I must say it again, that the Great Duke, who sees that his Greatness and his Family must end with him, ought to put the last hand to this Monument of the Magnificence of the _Medicis_: For can he hope, that if he himself neglects to transmit the l.u.s.tre of his Family to Posterity, his Successors will think to do it, who are nothing to him, or at least but very little?

But such is the Humour of _John Gaston_ Great Duke of _Tuscany_; he is so indifferent and unconcern'd about every thing, that he sees Foreigners dispose of his Dominions, and nominate his Successor, and the Courtiers ready to abandon him and to wors.h.i.+p the said Successor; and yet the Prospect, how disagreeable soever it may be, does not seem to give him any Uneasiness: And he said some days ago, after he had sign'd his Last Will and Testament, declaring _Don Carlos_ Infante of _Spain_ his Successor, _that he had just got a Son and Heir by a Dash of his Pen, which he had not been able to get in thirty four years Marriage_.

Thus, Sir, I have given all you will have of me this time touching _Florence_, where I cou'd stay but a few days, and then made no Acquaintance, having only been taken up in seeing the Curiosities of this City. At my Return from _Rome_ I propose to come hither again, and make some stay in order to get a little Knowledge of the Court; and then you shall be inform'd of every Remark that I make.

From _Florence_ I went and din'd at _Castilloncello_, and lay at SIENNA a City in the Duchy of _Tuscany_, to which _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_ made it subject, not without great Resistance from the _Siennois_. The City which is both an Archbishop.r.i.c.k and an University, is very pleasantly situate, and enjoys a very good Air. 'Tis said that _Italian_ is spoke here with more Purity than in any other Town in _Italy_. It seem'd to me to want Inhabitants, for I went thro' several Streets and did not meet a Soul.

'Tis said that a great many of the n.o.bility are settled in _Sienna_, and that Strangers are sure to meet with a civil Reception here, but as I staid no more than one day, I had only a cursory View of the Town. The Cathedral appear'd to me to be a great and n.o.ble Building lin'd with Marble. The Great Duke's Palace is ancient, but commodious. It has a Tower which is look'd upon as a singular piece of Architecture. The Great Princess[165] _Violante_ of _Bavaria_ is Governess of _Sienna_. She liv'd formerly in this City, and was mightily belov'd in it; but she has resided for some time at _Florence_. The Square which is before the Palace is oval, and hollow in the Middle, so that it may be laid under-water like the Square _Navona_ at _Rome_.

From _Sienna_ to _Viterbo_ the Road is extremely bad, I pa.s.sed the Mountain of _Radifocani_, situate in one of the vilest Countries in all _Italy_. At the top of the Mountain there's a Castle, where a Garison of fifteen Men is kept, with a Commanding Officer, whom I found at the House of Entertainment where I alighted. He had been a Lieutenant in _France_ in the Royal _Italian_ Regiment, and spoke very good _French_. He told me that the Inhabitants under his Government were as bad as the Country, of which some Moments after, I saw a Proof. A Mule-driver having a Quarrel with the Drawer, the latter stabb'd him with a Knife in the Rim of the Belly, with as much Sedateness as if he had been doing a good Action; and the Commandant never caus'd the a.s.sa.s.sin to be apprehended: for which when I express'd my Surprize to him, he said he had nothing to do out of his Place; and that besides he did not dare to cause the a.s.sa.s.sin to be apprehended, because he had three Brothers as wicked as himself, who wou'd not fail to take a Revenge if he was punish'd. And then, said he, I shou'd have enough to do if I were to cause all to be apprehended who give Wounds with Knives.

AQUAPENDENTE is a sorry little Town, and yet a Metropolis. BOLSENA is no better, and MONTEFIASCONE tho' a Bishop.r.i.c.k, wou'd not be worth mentioning, were it not for its Vineyards which produce excellent _Muscadine_ Wine.

VITERBO, three Leagues from _Montefiascone_, seem'd to me to be a pretty Town. 'Tis adorn'd with three fine Fountains, and pav'd with great Flint Stones which are four foot long and two foot broad. This City has some fine Houses in it. 'Tis the See of a Bishop, and its Cathedral is a Structure which does not want for Grandeur. In this Church the Archbishop and Elector of _Cologn_ was consecrated by Pope _Benedict_ XIII. who came hither on purpose to save the Elector all manner of dispute about Precedency with the Cardinals; who were in their turn so disgruntled with the Pope, that none of them accompany'd him in this Journey.

MONTEROSO is a pretty Town, but RONCIGLIONE outdoes it; and indeed in all the Ecclesiastical State there is not a pleasanter. It drives a great Trade in Snuff. I came hither yesterday at Noon, and don't think of going away 'till this Evening, my Chaise being broke. I hope however to lie this Night at _Rome_, from whence I purpose to send you many good Stories forthwith. You will do me a Pleasure to let me hear from you; and to believe me in _Italy_, as well as elsewhere, yours, _&c._

_End of Volume_ I.