The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume II Part 15

He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the _Teutonic_[92] Order, tho' the Pope thought he had Benefices enough before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time, and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don't think there's any Harm in the Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of 'em; which is a Thing that cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my next, what I think of this Prince's Court. In the mean time, and always, I am with the most perfect Esteem, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XLVII.

_SIR_, _Bonn, July 30, 1732._

As I came to BONN, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that time to walk about. This City stands upon the _Rhine_, five Leagues from _Cologne_; from whence one travels to it thro' one of the finest Roads in the World, well-pav'd and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain, encompa.s.sed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very ancient, that _Florus_ tells us 'twas founded by _Drusus_. The Learned say, 'tis the _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, mention'd by _Tacitus_. Be this as it will, _Bonn_ has not the least Monument that favours of the _Roman_ Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at all, when the Court is not there. 'Twas heretofore very well fortify'd, and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by _Frederic_ Elector of _Brandenbourg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_, who besieged it at the Head of his own Troops, and those of _Munster_ and _Holland_; and lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all _French_ Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary manner; for, being just come out of _France_, with a Spirit of Hatred and Revenge against _Lewis_ XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of _Nantes_, had forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every _Frenchman_ that was a Catholic, being odious to them. _St. Bonnet_, their commanding Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well 'twas his Due, but that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great Esteem. _St. Bonnet_ said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to continue always near his Person. _St. Bonnet_, ambitious of Glory, and, perhaps, hurry'd by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector's Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.

During this Siege, _Bonn_ was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce a House was left standing; for the Baron _d'Asfeldt_, who commanded in the Place for _Lewis_ XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.

This City was again besieg'd in 1703, by my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who obliged the Marquis[93] _d'Alegre_, now Marshal of _France_, to capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of _Utrecht_, that the _Dutch_ should keep Garison in _Bonn_; but the Elector _Joseph Clement_, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own Territories.

This same Prince, at his Return from _France_, found his capital City in a sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy'd in the last Siege, were not yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of the most considerable Structures in _Germany_, if it had been brought to Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish'd, has s.p.a.cious Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn'd, and n.o.bly furnish'd. The Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord's Nativity; which is wonderfully well designed; and they may be reckon'd the Master-pieces of the _Gobelins_, where the Elector _Joseph Clement_, caused them to be made.

The princ.i.p.al Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded by St. _Helena_, the Mother of the Emperor _Constantine_, to the Honour of the Holy Martyrs _Ca.s.sius Florus_, and _Malusius_, Soldiers of a _Roman_ Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Att.i.tude of this Statue is so very n.o.ble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church of _Rome_.

Tho' the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at _Bonn_, yet he spends most of his Time at _Bruhl_, a House he caused to be built three Leagues out of Town; which, tho' not very large, has very fine Apartments, adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine when finish'd.

The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a League from _Bonn_, near a Village called _Popelsdorff_, which was built in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ the Materials in the Works at _Bruhl_. Near _Popelsdorff_, there's a Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.

All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of _Bonn_, which are moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here, than at _Cologne_; for _Bonn_ grows every Day finer, while the latter is decaying.

After having walk'd about here a great deal, expecting the Elector's Return, this Prince is at length arrived, together with Duke _Ferdinand_ his Brother. He was welcom'd with the Discharge of the Cannon, and complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return, and upon his Advancement to the Grand Masters.h.i.+p of the _Teutonic_ Order.

Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress'd in a Lay Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the Dress which is most affected by the Electors of _Cologne_, is like that of the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as Grand Master of a Military Order.

His Electoral Highness has a just t.i.tle to be called _Clement Augustus_; for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so n.o.bly descended. He lived in his Infancy at _Gratz_, together with the Princes his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards, with Duke _Philip_ his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis _Santini_, a Native of _Lucca_, a Commandeur of the Order of _Malta_, and a Lieutenant-General in the Service of _Bavaria_, was appointed for their Governor. Duke _Philip_ was chose Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. The Gentleman who was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count _de Plettenberg_, now the Elector's Prime Minister, who was then purely attach'd to that Prince, from the Devotion he always had for the House of _Bavaria_; and Duke _Philip_ dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke _Clement-Augustus_ for their Bishop.

This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope's own Hand, at _Rome_; and afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishop.r.i.c.k. Not long after this, the Elector of _Cologne_, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of _Joseph Clement_, _Clement Augustus_ succeeded him also in the Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Hildesheim_.

After the Death of the Duke of _York_, _Ernest-Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and Bishop of _Osnabruck_, he was chose for Successor to that Prince's Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights, who have Commanderies in that Order.

The Enemies of the House of _Bavaria_ murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; _What!_ say they, _one Bishop to hold so many Bishop.r.i.c.ks! there are few Instances of the like in all our Annals; 'tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church_. I am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and even more Benefices; and that 'tis for the Welfare and Interest of the Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. _Albert_, Cardinal of _Brandenbourg_, was at the same time Archbishop of _Mentz_ and _Magdebourg_. The Archduke _Leopold_ held nine great[94] Benefices; but it was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the Church. _Francis_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector of _Mentz_, tho' not a Priest, held five Bishop.r.i.c.ks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or Merit to the Archduke _Leopold_, and to the Prince of _Newbourg_.

Tho' I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several Bishop.r.i.c.ks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them, separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the Misfortune of _Germany_ to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being united under one Head, they are a formidable State.

_But_, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen _was only Bishop of_ Munster, _and yet he made_ Holland _tremble_. This is very true; but they don't consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of _Lewis_ XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic, what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of _Europe_, and particularly of _Germany_, is very much chang'd since his Death. The Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics, on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade.

Therefore, I say it again, 'tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute their utmost to augment it, in order to furnish Religion and the Church with an able Protector.

Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is _Ferdinand_ Count _de Plettenberg-Nordkirchen_, whose Family has been of distinguish'd Rank for a long time in _Westphalia_, and has given several Princes Bishops of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. It had formerly only the t.i.tle of a Barony, and M. _de Plettenberg_ is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the Elector to guarantee the _Pragmatic Sanction_: The Count _de Plettenberg_ is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay n.o.bleman can be ambitious of in _Germany_: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor's Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the Elector of _Cologne_'s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime Minister.

Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. 'Twas this Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose, first, Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_, and afterwards Bishop of _Hildesheim_ and _Osnabruck_: He also contributed very much to his being elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_; for had it not been for his Representations, the deceased Elector _Joseph Clement_ would, perhaps, have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step: But the Count _de Plettenberg_ dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services, performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject, could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the Elector's intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His Behaviour is n.o.ble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly a.s.sume, who in their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent, vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o'Clock every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there is that Frugality observed, which is so laudable in those who have Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in _Germany_, so he is one of those n.o.blemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at _Nordkirchen_, where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the Count _de Plettenberg_ adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens to it, which will not easily be match'd in _Germany_. This Minister has an only Son at the University of _Leyden_, a Youth of great Hopes, who is already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of _Cologne_; and to whom the Count _de Plettenberg_, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to follow, and his Example to imitate.

There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The Baron _de Notha.s.st_, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the Elector's Guard. M. _de Walhot de Goudenau_, Marshal of the Court. The Baron _de Schourss_, and the Marquises _Caponi_ and _Trotti_, the Elector's Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to Foreigners. The Baron _de Sparr_, by Birth a _Swede_, whose Father died in the Service of _France_, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of _Bonn_.

His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to _Rome_, to desire the Holy Father's Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order. M. _de Sparr_ was Page to the late Elector of _Bavaria_, in which Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography, and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to the Elector of _Bavaria_. He proposed to make a Settlement, when G.o.d, whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest's Orders. He said his first Ma.s.s in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke _Theodore_ of _Bavaria_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_ and _Freisingen_, said his. He went a Year ago to _Rome_, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that 'twere to be wished all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to G.o.d, and the World.

The Elector's Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron _de Notha.s.st_ is Commander in chief of those Troops, which, tho' but a Handful, are sufficient for the Guard of _Bonn_, _Rhinberck_, and _Keiserswaert_, which were fortified heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.

In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of _Cologne_ governs with the t.i.tle of Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral Palace, and is served by the Elector's Officers. During this Time, _Bonn_ is a very melancholy Place. The n.o.bility and Gentry have their a.s.semblies at the House of the Countess _de Fugger_, where there are many more of the Fair s.e.x than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a s.h.i.+ning Figure.

In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XLVIII.

_SIR_, _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._

I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the disagreeable Pa.s.sage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not fatigu'd, but then I was pretty much chagrin'd. I landed at LINTZ, a little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the _Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The _Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great Quant.i.ty of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for _Burgundy_. After I had fill'd my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for _Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank with Wine.

A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there's an abandon'd Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superst.i.tion that is to be met with, more or less, in all Countries.

The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where the Count has a very pretty House. This n.o.bleman, and his Subjects too, are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_'s Governor. She is a Lady highly to be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.

The _Rhine_, which runs thro' none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to _Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly take one's Eyes off of them, there's such a variegated Prospect of Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and Cottages.

The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_, at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley surrounded with n.o.ble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to them 'tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_, the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d'Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very rich n.o.bleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is to the last Degree n.o.ble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpa.s.ses his Years.

The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of _Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which, they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of _Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_, where live most of the Elector's Domestics. This Quarter has a Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge.

The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_, who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and Abbat of _Elw.a.n.gen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of _Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of _Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect: He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers a.s.sured me, that he was a very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his Government. His Disburs.e.m.e.nts seem to me to be very moderate, and his Houshold not large.

From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_.

The Landgrave of _Ca.s.sel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and the Troops of _Hesse Ca.s.sel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn'd out. A Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the _Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the _Rhine_, over which River here is a Pa.s.sage by a flying Bridge.

As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is reckoned as the most dangerous Pa.s.sage of all the _Rhine_, though there's no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine; which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the midst of the _Rhine_, there's the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him from the Rats, which gnaw'd him as a Punishment for his having burnt a considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames, ask'd his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable soever this Story may seem, 'tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in which 'tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw'd by the Rats.

The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the _Rhine_. 'Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and 'tis thought to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fas.h.i.+on of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of _Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of _Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good, and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.

From _Bingen_ to MENTZ, the _Rhine_ is very broad. This capital City of the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the _Rhine_, over which there's a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City, in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of _j.a.phet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as it will, 'tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince's Candour, and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish'd it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d'Uxelles_, who then commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of _Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works, cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others of Stone erected in their stead.

The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_, _Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but 'tis pity they are not in a better Situation.

The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were engraved;

_Auri s.e.xcentas habet haec crux aurea libras._

Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can a.s.sure you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely of Persons of Quality, but they don't admit Princes to it.

The Elector's Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.

That which most deserves a Traveller's View in this City, is the _Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The Joiner's Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which represents the Pa.s.sages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very s.p.a.cious, and forms a perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and industrious Occupations.

It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women, and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as that tho' they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.