The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 8

There is nothing magnificent in the Outside of the King's Palace, but then the Apartments are of an elegant Taste, and richly furnish'd, and here's a great Number of Paintings, which good Judges reckon excellent Pieces. The Apartment of the King and Queen takes up the first Story, and forms a double Apartment, with a Guard-Room before it. The finest Part of the Palace is the famous Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief; tho' this Chapel be a Part of the Cathedral, I make no Scruple to call it the Chapel of the Palace, because the King always hears Ma.s.s there. I thought it a very gloomy Place, undoubtedly because 'tis lin'd with black Marble of a greenish Cast; and besides, there was no Bra.s.s nor Gilding to enliven all this Black. I ask'd, what could be the Reason, why they chose black Marble preferably to any other; and was told, that 'twas in Remembrance of the Death of our Saviour Jesus Christ, whose Holy Handkerchief is preserv'd over the Altar: This Altar is so made, that Two Priests may say Ma.s.s at it together, without seeing or interrupting one another.

On one Side of the King's Palace stands, as I had the Honour to tell you, the Palace of _Madame Royale_ the King's Mother. This Building was very inconsiderable heretofore, the Apartments being very plain, and the only Stair-case leading to it extremely incommodious: But _Madame Royale_, who did not value Money, caus'd great Alterations to be made in it: Among other Embellishments she built one intire Front, for the Sake of having one of the finest Stair-cases to it in the World; for which Reason they say now, _That here's a Stair-case without a Palace_, as they said before, _That 'twas a Palace without a Stair-case_. Indeed the rest of the Building is by no means answerable to the Magnificence of the Front and the Stair-case; yet, as mean an Appearance as it makes without, the Apartments within are magnificent; for look which way soever, one sees nothing but Marble, n.o.ble Gilding, Paintings by the greatest Masters, Pier-Gla.s.ses of a wonderful Size and Beauty, and other very rich Furniture. This Palace had only one Garden to it, which was encompa.s.s'd on the Three Sides by Streets and very fine Squares: The Back-Part look'd towards that call'd the Street of the _Po_, which is one of the finest in _Turin_.

The Royal Family consisted first and foremost of King _Victor Amadeus_, who marry'd a Granddaughter of _France_, nam'd _Anna-Maria_ of _Orleans_, Daughter of _Philip_ Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. and to _Henrietta_ of _England_, by whom he has had Two Princes and Two Princesses: The first of the Princes was _Philip-Joseph_, who dy'd the 22d of _March_, 1715, at 15 Years of Age: The second, who is the present King by the Resignation of the King his Father, is _Charles-Emanuel_, who marry'd first _Anne-Christina_ of _Sultzbach_, and his second Wife was _Polyxena_ of _Hesse Rhinfels_.

The Two Princesses were _Mary-Adelaide_ of _Savoy_, (marry'd to the Duke of _Burgundy_, Dauphin of _France_, Father of _Lewis_ XV.) who dy'd the 12th of _February_, 1712: And _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_, (the first Wife of _Philip_ V. the present King of _Spain_) who dy'd the 14th of _February_, 1714.

The Queen was still living while I was at _Turin_: She was one of the most courteous Princesses in the World, lov'd dearly to converse with her Courtiers, and was perfectly civil to Foreigners that had the Honour to be introduc'd to her: She dy'd the 26th of _August_, 1728.

_Madame Royale_ the King's Mother was very ancient; yet 'twas easy to discover, that she had once her Share of Beauty, and she had still a fine Shape and a majestic Air, in Spite of her great Age.

The first Prince of the Blood of the _Savoy_ Family is _Victor Amedeus_, the Prince of _Carignan_: This Prince happen'd not to be at _Turin_ when I was there, his Affairs having requir'd his Presence for some time in _France_: I had the Honour of paying my Compliments to the Princess his Consort, who, you know, is the King's Daughter, by the Countess of _Verrue_. Before her Marriage she went by the t.i.tle of _Madamoseille de Suza_: This Princess is indeed not very tall, but she is a perfect Beauty, the Features of her Face, which are regular, being improv'd moreover by a fair clear Complexion. All these external Perfections are supported likewise by the best Sense and a generous Soul: She is so good-natur'd, so civil, and has such a happy manner of expressing herself, as wins the Hearts at the same time as it procures the Respect of those that hear her: She has a Vivacity of Temper, which charms, and a Generosity, which is not confin'd to Words only; and she is never better pleas'd, than when she has an Opportunity of doing Service: This, _Madame_, is not a feign'd Character, for I say no more than what I was Eye-Witness of myself, and what the whole City of _Turin_ said of this Princess: And I saw with what Regret they parted with her, when she set out to see her Husband at _Paris_, which she did while I was at _Turin_.

I was a constant Attendant at Court to pay my Duty to the King and all the Royal Family: The Time that one had the Honour of speaking to his Majesty was commonly when he went from Ma.s.s, for it was very rare to see him the rest of the Day. After this the Company us'd to go to the Prince of _Piedmont_'s Apartment, which was over the King's; but one had not the Pleasure of waiting on that Prince so often or so long as it were to be wish'd, because he was then very much taken up with his Studies: The best time to see him was in the Evening, when he came to the Queen's Drawing-Room, which was open'd about 6 or 7 o'Clock: Then the Ladies came in their Court Dress, and were admitted into the Queen's Chamber, where a Chair of State was plac'd between Two Rows of Stools: The Queen came out of her Closet with the Princesses, and as soon as she was in Reach of her Chair, she made a Curtesy to the Right and Left, and then sate down: The Princesses also seated themselves in Folding Chairs; but the Ladies stood behind the Princesses, and the Gentlemen behind the Ladies: The Queen, after a Conversation with the Princesses and the Ladies, arose, paid her Compliments again to the Right and Left, and then retir'd; tho' sometimes she stopp'd in the same Chamber, to talk to such Ladies or Gentlemen as she had a Mind to distinguish.

From the Queen's Drawing-Room the Company went to the Apartment of _Madame Royale_. This Princess had a Drawing-Room in the same manner as the Queen, only with this Difference, that the Prince of _Piedmont_ was not there, and that after it was over, her Royal Highness permitted those Persons that she had a Mind to honour, to follow her into her Bedchamber, where she talk'd a long time with them, being supported all the while by one of her Equerries.

After her Drawing-Room was over, there was no other Person of the Royal Family to be seen more for that Night, and then the n.o.bility us'd to repair to the Princess of _Villa-Franca_'s a.s.sembly, where there was Variety of Gaming: There were always several Tables for Ombre, Pharo, Lansquenet, _&c._ and I play'd there with Fortune very much on my Side, as I had done ever since I had been in _Italy_, where Gaming, in short, had defray'd all my Expences; insomuch that when I got to the other Side of the Mountains, I found that I was still a Gainer by about 200 Pistoles.

I found a great many Foreigners in the Service of the King of _Sardinia_: The Commander of his Forces was _M. de Rhebinder_, a _Swede_, who gave Foreigners a complete Reception, and his House was one of the best in _Turin_. _M. de Schulembourg_, whose Family you know perfectly well, was a Lieutenant-General: This n.o.bleman being a _Lutheran_, had obtain'd Leave to have a Chaplain of his own Religion. I shall not mention the other foreign Officers to you, because I had no particular Acquaintance with them.

Before I leave _Turin_, I fancy you will not be displeas'd with some Account of the King's Houshold, which tho' not numerous, is very magnificent. His Majesty has Three Companies of Life-Guards, which are distinguish'd by the Names of _Sardinia_, _Savoy_, and _Piedmont_, and are very well cloath'd. The King has a considerable Number of Pages, who are brought up much more carefully than at our _German_ Courts, where one very often forgets that the Pages are Gentlemen. Their Livery is Scarlet, with a blue and white Velvet Lace.

The Prince of _Piedmont_ was serv'd by the King's Officers.

The Queen had her separate Houshold. She had a Lady of Honour, a Tire-Woman, and Six Maids of Honour, who were to be cas.h.i.+er'd, and they talk'd of appointing Six Ladies of the Bedchamber, that were marry'd, to attend the Queen's Person in their room.

_Madame Royale_ had also her Houshold and her Guards. As she was naturally fond of Splendor, all her Court made a very gay Appearance. She had likewise in her Service the same Number of Ladies and Maids of Honour as the Queen had.

There happen'd an Adventure at the Court of her Royal Highness which made a very great Noise. Among this Princess's Maids of Honour, who were all very amiable, there was one that so far excell'd the rest, that her Beauty engag'd her a great many Admirers from all Parts. Among others that enter'd the Lists, was a young _Piedmontese_, whom I knew full well. He was a very handsome lively Man, but a mere Rattle; so that after having set all Engines at work to carry his Point, and sigh'd a long time, he found himself just as far advanc'd as the first Day that he began.

However, this young Lover was not dishearten'd, but continu'd his Addresses with a Constancy which really deserv'd some Regard; but whether 'twas owing to Virtue, or perhaps to the Fear of disgusting some favourite Lover, the Damsel remain'd inflexible. The _Piedmontese_ being thus rebuff'd, thought he was bound in Honour not to survive such Treatment; but in so critical an Affair he resolv'd to do nothing rashly. He believ'd that when the cruel Fair One saw the Despair into which she had cast him, and the dreadful Extreme to which he was reduc'd, it might engage her to treat him with less Severity; but it happen'd quite otherwise, insomuch that the silly young Fellow having declar'd in plain Terms that he would kill himself if he was to suffer Martyrdom any longer, the Damsel answer'd him very indifferently, _Kill yourself if you will_, _what's that to me?_ This Expression, indeed, made the young _Piedmontese_ not so desirous to be his own Executioner as he pretended; but nevertheless he was resolv'd to frighten his Mistress, and leaving her very abruptly, he went and fill'd a Bladder with Blood, and putting it very artfully under his s.h.i.+rt, he return'd to the Damsel, and threaten'd even to destroy himself in her Presence, if she persisted in her Refusal of his Addresses. The Answer he received being much of the same kind with the former, he cry'd out in a Pa.s.sion, _What, will you have my Life, Mademoiselle? Well then, so be it_: At the same Instant he drew his Sword, and having p.r.i.c.k'd the Bladder, he fell down as if he was a dead Man; Upon this the Damsel gave a dreadful Shriek, and Help came immediately. The great Effusion of Blood was terrifying at the first Sight; but when the young Spark was set upon his Legs, 'twas quickly perceiv'd by his Countenance, that the Sacrifice he had made did not cost him very dear. The worse Luck for him, it happen'd that _Madame Royale_ was inform'd of it that very Instant; for the Tragi-Comedy being presently divulg'd in her Antichamber, that Princess, in order to teach the Puppy not to fail hereafter in the Respect due to Princes, caus'd him to be committed to a Castle not far from _Turin_, where he was for about Two Years a Prisoner.

From _Turin_ I went the same Day to the Foot of Mount _Cenis_. I saw nothing remarkable all the Way, except the Town of SUSA, in which were formerly kept the t.i.tles and Charters of the House of _Savoy_; but the Emperor _Frederic_ I. set Fire to it, and burnt them all.

At a little Distance from _Susa_ is a Fortress call'd LA BRUNETTE, which is worth the Traveller's Notice: It commands the Pa.s.sage of the _Alps_, which hereafter will for that reason be more difficult for the _French_ to pa.s.s than formerly. Next Day after my Arrival at the Foot of Mount _Cenis_, I prepared to pa.s.s that terrible Mountain: For this Purpose I dismounted my Chaise, and put it with my Trunks upon the Backs of Mules; after which I plac'd myself in a sort of Arm-Chair; and Two Men, who were reliev'd every now-and-then by Two others, carry'd me over it in Five Hours time. When I was on the Top of it I stopp'd, in hopes of discovering a great Tract of Country; but saw nothing, except a great Lake, and fine rich Meadows. On the Top of this Mountain there was a House of Entertainment, where the Mule-Drivers and Chair-Men always refresh themselves. This surely is the dismalest Place in the World, it being situate in the middle of a frightful Desert, which is always, or at least Nine Months in the Year, cover'd with Snow. One thing remarkable is, that no Robbery is committed in this wild Place, tho' the People upon the Skirts of it are not to be trusted.

After I had been over Mount _Cenis_, I went to _Lanebourg_, the first Village in _Savoy_, where Travellers get again into their Chaises. As soon as my Equipage was remounted, I traveled to[26] CHAMBERY, the Capital of _Savoy_. This is a City situate between Two Mountains, upon the Rivers _Laise_ and _Albans_. 'Tis the Residence of a Parliament, consisting of Fifteen Senators and Four Presidents, which is oblig'd for its Inst.i.tution to _Amedeus_ VIII. Duke of _Savoy_.

From _Chambery_ I went to GENEVA, a little Republic, which is an Ally of the _Swiss_ Cantons. The City stands upon a Lake, of which it claims the Sovereignty, as the Republic of _Venice_ does that of the _Adriatic_ Sea.

This Lake contributes very much to the Embellishment of _Geneva_, which is built upon a Hill, in Form of an Amphitheatre; so that on one Side it looks over the Lake, on the Banks of which are Vineyards and very pretty Country-Houses; and on the other Side is a Prospect of a n.o.ble Plain, Gardens, very fine Pastures, and a curious Walk form'd by a very long Mall: On each Side are the Mountains of _Savoy_, the Tops of which being cover'd with Snow, form a very agreeable View.

'Tis true, that as to the _Genevese_, the Situation of their City would be much more advantageous, if their Prospect was not so confin'd; or, at least, if they had nothing to fear from that which forms so charming a Point of View: For which way soever these Republicans turn their Eyes, they easily see the Limits of their Dominions; and this little Republic only subsists by the Jealousy of the Sovereigns their Neighbours, who will not suffer any one of themselves to make a Conquest of it. Mean time these People make a Parade of their Forces, and have been at considerable Expence in fortifying the Place, tho' for what Reason I cannot imagine; since if any one of the neighbouring Powers came to attack _Geneva_, and the City was not supported by the others, it would be oblig'd to surrender, whether fortify'd or not. I should have thought it better to have employ'd the Money expended on their new Fortifications, in embellis.h.i.+ng their City, and to have contented themselves with the old Fortifications, which were more than sufficient to have given them Time for receiving Succours in case of an Attack.

I went to see the a.r.s.enal, which appear'd to me to be well furnish'd, and they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it should be.

The _Genevese_ have the Reputation of being rich, and not without Foundation; for they drive a considerable Trade, and every body there is either a Merchant or a Manufacturer. Yet they affect a great deal of Plainness, both in their Buildings and their Furniture. Their Houses are not lofty, nor the Apartments very large; and both their Houshold-stuff and Cloaths are very modest; there being a Decree of the Senate, which forbids them to make use of Gilding in their Furniture or Apparel, for fear, 'tis like, that Luxury, which formerly prov'd the Ruin of the _Roman_ Republic, should be equally destructive to their petty State.

The Senate of _Geneva_ commonly a.s.sembles in their Town-House, opposite to which is a Guard-Room, where the Soldiers present their Arms, as the Senators go in or out of the a.s.sembly, or when they walk in Ceremony: Upon these Occasions the Senate and the Ministers form Two Rows, the former on the Right Hand, and the latter on the Left.

The Town-House has nothing very remarkable, every thing being very plain.

In the great Hall I observ'd the Figures of Queen _Anne_ of _England_, _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, _Frederic William_ the Great Elector of _Brandenbourg_, and the Landgrave of _Hesse-Ca.s.sel_; which are all so many Proofs of those Princes Communion with the _Genevese_. You know that they are all of the _Calvinist_ Religion, and very careful not to suffer any other Sect to herd with them. The _Lutherans_ have a little Chamber there, which serves for their Church, they being expresly forbid to build one. As for the _Roman Catholics_, they are look'd upon at _Geneva_ to be all Idolaters; insomuch that the late King of _France_ had much ado to get Leave for Ma.s.s to be said at his Resident's House: The _Genevese_ Ministers at the Time that _Lewis_ XIV. caus'd this Demand to be made of the Republic, employ'd all their Engines to hinder its being granted; but all their Measures were in vain: and they were given to understand, that it would be imprudent to disoblige so great a Prince.

The Reverend Gentlemen their Ministers make so considerable a Figure in the State, that I must just mention them. They are reverenc'd as so many Bishops; every one of them in his respective Pulpit issues his Mandate, and decides Matters of Faith in the Dernier Resort: But tho' they are all of the same Religion, they are some times very different from one another in Opinion. Nevertheless, be they ever so divided one among another, they join hand in hand when they have a Mind to inveigh against the Pope, the Court of _Rome_, the Bishops, and especially the Jesuits; for they can't endure the latter: And 'tis rare for a Minister to be so much Master of his Temper, as to keep strictly to his Text, without rambling from it to lash those Fryars.

As to the Gentlemen of the Government, it must be confess'd they are very charitable. They have caus'd a magnificent Hospital to be built, on which they have settled great Revenues, and where the Poor are very well maintain'd. Here poor Pa.s.sengers are admitted for one Day, and, after having been entertain'd with Lodging and Food, are dismiss'd the next Day, with some Money in their Pockets to proceed in their journey. This same Hospital serves also for a House of Correction for loose young Fellows and Women, over whom the Police at _Geneva_ carries a very strict Hand. I wish I could say as much of the Trading Part of this City, who it may be are very civil People; but the Dispute I had with one of the most eminent of them, makes me very much suspect their Honesty; and this was what gave me an Opportunity to know a little of the Character of the Tradesmen of _Geneva_. 'Tis true, that I had nothing to do but with one of them; but as I was recommended to him alone, as a Man of the greatest Integrity in _Geneva_, I think I do not judge rashly of all the rest, by laying no more Dishonesty to their Charge than what I met with in this so much applauded Banker.

When I was preparing to quit _Geneva_, I had about the Value of 400 Pistoles, Part old Species and Part _Spanish_ Pistoles; but I heard at the same time, that such Pieces were prohibited to pa.s.s in _France_, and therefore I was advis'd to get rid of them, and to take Bills of Exchange for them upon _Lyons_. I made no Hesitation to comply with this Advice, and went to find out the Man that was recommended to me for the honestest Banker in all _Geneva_. As Bills began at that time to sink very much in Credit, I bargain'd with him, that I should not be put off at _Lyons_, upon any Pretence whatever, with any thing less than ready Money. As all this was only verbal, the Banker made me the most solemn Promise, and back'd it with an Oath, that it should be as I would have it. Relying on Promises, which were in Appearance so authentic, I told down my Money, and when he took it, he added, That if the Banker at _Lyons_ should happen to refuse me Specie, I need only send him back his Bill of Exchange, and I might depend on being paid in ready Money. Not doubting of this honest Man's Sincerity, I set out from _Geneva_ with his Bill of Exchange, and a small matter of Money that I had reserv'd, just to bear my Expences on the Road. As soon as I came to _Lyons_, I went to the Banker to whom the _Genevese_ directed me, and presented my Bill of Exchange, for which I saw he was going to give me Paper; but I immediately refus'd to be paid in that sort of Coin, and told him the Agreement I had made at _Geneva_. He said to me, that he was not oblig'd to stand to an Agreement which he was no ways privy to, and advis'd me to send back my Bill to _Geneva_. I took his Advice, and wrote to my Banker, that what we had agreed upon would not be comply'd with; but he was so tedious in returning me an Answer, that I thought once I should have had neither Money nor Bills, and that by consequence my Case would have been very melancholy, the little Sum I had reserv'd for my Journey to _Lyons_ being soon spent. However, at Three Weeks End the _Genevese_ Banker sent back my Bill of Exchange, and stiffly deny'd that he had made any other Bargain with me, than that I should be paid in the Current Money, which was Bills. I plainly perceiv'd that there was no Remedy but Submission, therefore I took the Bills and set out Post from _Lyons_ for _Paris_.

I found great Alterations in this City since I was here last. The Peace with _Spain_ was establish'd: Most of the Prisoners that had been concern'd in the Prince of _Cellamare_'s Affair, were then at Liberty: Some, indeed, that were the most guilty, or the most useless to the State, had been banish'd the Kingdom; and the greatest Part were retir'd to _Spain_, where I saw some of them in such a poor Plight, that they wish'd themselves again in the _Bastille_, where they were at least well fed.

The Duke Regent, for his Part, after having thus pacify'd some Persons to whom his Authority gave Umbrage, had made Provision also for the Establishment of some of his Daughters. For the One he had provided the Abbey of _Ch.e.l.les_, upon the Resignation of _Madame de Villars_, who was the Abbess. The Second, who was call'd _Madamoiselle de Valois_, had been just marry'd to the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_, and set out with a Paraphernalia more grand than what is given to the Daughters of _France_.

The same Honours were paid to her upon the Road, as are commonly paid to the Daughters of the King; and that there might be Substance answerable to all this Splendor, the Duke of _Modena_ had bargain'd for a very considerable Portion, payable in the Species of _Italy_, rather than be expos'd to all the Revolutions of the _French_ Coin; in which that Prince made a wise Bargain, for every Day was remarkable for one _Arret_ or other relating to the Species. Nevertheless, those _Arrets_ did not look as if they would be long in Force; at least, the Thing which they had princ.i.p.ally in View, absolutely came to nothing. There being therefore no Gold nor Silver of which they could lower the Value, it was thought expedient to touch the only Species left, I mean the Bank Bills, which in their Turn were subject to various Revolutions, that were of the worse Consequence to those wretched Effect; because, as they had no intrinsic Value, they might very easily relapse into their original Nothing. They say, that the Disaster which befel these Bills, was owing to Mr. _Law_'s Enemies, who envy'd the Credit which they saw this Foreigner had with the Regent; and of this nothing was a greater Demonstration than the Difficulty they had to succeed in their Undertaking. But at length they brought their Designs to bear; and after having remonstrated several times, but always to no Purpose, that the Bills did a considerable Injury to Trade; that several Merchants were oblig'd to shut up their Shops, because 'twas impossible to trade without Money; that private People, whose Substance lay intirely in Annuities, being paid off in Bills, could not subsist long, since Tradesmen would not accept of those Bills for more than the Value express'd upon them: In fine, the Regent being quite wearied out with the continual Solicitations of these Remonstrants, yielded to their Importunity, and consented to the suppressing of the Bills. But as it was very evident that it would be impossible to annul them all at once, it was resolv'd to do it by Degrees: Therefore, on the 21st of _May_, there came out an _Arret_, which lower'd the Bills from _10 per Cent. per Month_, to one half of their Value. This _Arret_ occasion'd some Tumult; all _Paris_ was ready to rise in Arms, and so great was the Throng of People one pay to the Bank, that several were stifled in the Crowd, whose Bodies were carry'd by the mutinous Mob to the Court of the Royal Palace. Mr. _Law_, to whom they ow'd a Grudge for having given the Hint of so pernicious a Project, did not dare to shew his Head. In short, the Ferment seem'd to work so strong, that the Regent plainly perceiv'd 'twas impossible, at that Juncture, to inforce the _Arret_ that had been newly issued; and chose to have it revok'd, in hopes of regaining the Confidence of the Public. But it was intirely lost, every one deserted the Bank; and notwithstanding the Menaces given out, that the Species would be lower'd, People rather chose to keep their Money, which would be always worth something, than to inc.u.mber themselves with Bills, which, whenever the Prince took the Whim, would only be attended with the melancholy Reflection by the Possessors, that they were once well to pa.s.s.

In Fact, notwithstanding the Revocation of the _Arret_, the Bills sunk considerably every Day. Then it was that the Term of _Realising_ became the favourite Word of the Time, that is to say, when the Generality of private Men, who had any Bills, endeavour'd to exchange them, not for Money, which at that Time seem'd to be bury'd again in the Earth, from whence its Original was dug, but for real Effects: Some bought Diamonds, others Plate, some Merchandize: In short, every wise Man got rid of his Paper; and even the n.o.bility turn'd Merchants: Particularly one of them, who was of the first Rank[27], had a considerable Warehouse stor'd with Coffee, Wax-Candles, Grocery-Wares, and the like Goods, to sell again. The Parliament took Cognisance of these Acquisitions, but his only Punishment was the Mortification he receiv'd from those Gentlemen; and he was left in Possession of the Grocery-Wares, Coffee, _&c._

At this very critical Time, when the Bills were reduc'd, did I arrive at _Paris_; which City was then like a Wood for harbouring Robbers and Murderers; and, in Fact, the Ease of carrying the Fortunes of a great many People in a Pocket-Book was a great Temptation to Thieves: Moreover, notwithstanding the Scarcity of Money, Luxury, Debauchery and Gaming were arriv'd at the highest Pitch, and young Deboshees were guilty of the most shocking Enormities to satisfy their Extravagance: To this Purpose I was told a Story, that about the End of _Lent_ 1721, the Count _de Horn_, a young n.o.bleman, related to the chief Families in _Europe_, was one of Three that basely murder'd a poor Wretch, who got his Livelihood by negociating Shares and Bills for other People: As this Man's Letter-Case seem'd to be full of Effects, that must amount to a considerable Sum, the Count appointed him to come to a Tavern in _St. Martin_'s Street, on Pretence of buying some Shares of him; when he came, he took him into a Back-Room, which he had bespoke for the Purpose; and just as he was opening his Letter-Case upon the Table, the Count and Two Comrades threw a Cloth over his Head, and then cruelly stabb'd him with Daggers: The unhappy Man made such a Noise while they were in the Act of murdering him, that it brought some body up Stairs, but they had taken Care to fasten the Chamber-Door in the Inside, so that 'twas impossible to enter it, and the Count and his Accomplices made their Escape out of a Window, that look'd into a little Street on one Side of the Tavern, from whence, tho'

they were in the second Story, they got down very easily, by the Favour of some Beams, which were laid across the Street to support the Two Houses: The Count's Comrades thought of nothing less than flying their Country, but there was only one of them that was so fortunate as to get into foreign Parts, the other was apprehended about the Fish-Market, and carry'd before a Commissary. The Count, on his Part, instead of endeavouring to make his Escape, went and complain'd to a Commissary, of an Attempt that had been made to a.s.sa.s.sinate him: His wild Stare and his b.l.o.o.d.y Hand and Ruffles made the Commissary suspect there was something more than ordinary in this Complaint, and he desir'd that he would carry him to the Place where he said that he ran such a Risque of his Life; which he scrupling to do, the Commissary sent for the Archers to carry him thither by Force. The Count, before he set out, desir'd Leave to step aside, to ease himself from the Impression, which he pretended the Danger had made upon him; but, as it came out afterwards, it was only to drop the Letter-Case, of which he had robb'd the Stockjobber, into the Privy: This done, he set out with the Commissary, and the Truth of the Fact was soon discover'd; for the Vintner having caus'd the Room to be broke open, the Sight of the Corpse and the b.l.o.o.d.y Daggers were so many Evidences of the Count's Guilt, who was thereupon committed Prisoner to the _Chatelet_, try'd the following Week, and condemn'd, together with his Accomplice, to be broke alive upon the Wheel in the Place _de Greve_; which Sentence was executed accordingly on the _Tuesday_ in the Holy Week. While he was yet a Prisoner, all the foreign n.o.bility at _Paris_ labour'd hard to obtain his Pardon, or at least that he might only be beheaded; to the end that the Infamy of his Punishment on the Wheel might not be cast as a Reproach upon his Family: But the Duke Regent made no other Answer, than that the Count was as near akin to him as he was to them, but that 'twas the Crime, and not the Punishment, that brought a Stain upon Families: The Count _de Horn_ made a truly Christian Exit; for the religious Principles, which he had once imbib'd from an Education suitable to his Birth, but which he had the Misfortune to stifle, reviv'd at this dreadful Crisis; and made him submit to dye with a Resignation which we seldom see in Persons that come to such a violent Death.

The Fall of the Bills was not the only Misfortune that _France_ labour'd under; for it was visited at the same time by a Pestilence: I was one Day at the Duke Regent's Levee, when he himself declar'd the melancholy News, that at _Ma.r.s.eilles_ there was a Plague: This at first struck a sensible Damp upon People, but 'twas quickly forgot, and they abandon'd themselves more than ever to Pleasures, Feasting, Gallantry, _&c._ Gaming indeed was not carry'd to that Height as usual, because it could not be done without ready Money, the Bills having no Credit then, except what was forc'd; but as to Trade, it decay'd every Day more and more; and the Merchants, who had so long stiffly refus'd the Bank Bills, were nevertheless soon oblig'd to accept them, being sensible, that if they rejected them any longer, they should be under a Necessity, either to make no more Sales, or to sell upon Credit; which was an Alternative equally destructive of Trade, which is only to be supported by the Circulation of Species, or at least by something equivalent.

Humanity, and the Concern I had for the Fate of my Friends, made me a Sharer in the public Calamities; but for the rest, I pa.s.s'd my Time well enough: I went to an Estate of a Friend of mine near _Orleans_, where I spent about Six Weeks, and then return'd to _Paris_, where I stay'd no longer than just to make due Preparation for my Tour to _Spain_: I travell'd by the way of _Lyons_ and _Languedoc_, purely for the Pleasure of seeing several of my Friends, who had Estates in those Places, and from _Lyons_ I proceeded to _Vienne_ in _Dauphine_: From thence I repa.s.s'd the _Rhosne_, and travelling thro' the _Vivarese_, I went to an Estate near _Nismes_, that belong'd to a Friend of mine, with whom I stay'd a Month: At _Nismes_ I went to take a View of the famous Amphitheatres, which are the precious Remains of the _Roman_ Antiquities.

From _Nismes_ I went to MONTPELIER, which in my Opinion is one of the most agreeable Cities in the World; and where, next to _Paris_, there's the most good Company: The Situation of it is charming, it being not far from the Sea, and encompa.s.s'd with very fertile Fields, that form a very charming Prospect. The Houses are not well built, but are all very neat within, and well furnish'd: The Streets are so narrow, that 'tis difficult to pa.s.s them with an Equipage, so that Gentlemen commonly make Use of Sedans: The Out-parts of the Town are very pleasant, especially towards the Sea. In this Part is a great Square, in Form of a Terrace, surrounded with Trees, in the middle of which is a magnificent Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. on a great Pedestal of white Marble: The Connoisseurs say, 'tis a complete Piece in all its Parts.

After having spent some Days at _Montpelier_, I proceeded towards _Toulouse_: I went first thro' BEZIERS, an Episcopal City, the Situation of which is so pleasant, that 'tis become a common Proverb, _If G.o.d were to chuse his Residence upon Earth, he would certainly chuse_ Beziers. 'Tis even said, that the Inhabitants of the Country, the Gentry especially, have more Sense and Conduct than they have elsewhere: Yet, at different Courts, I have seen several Persons, Natives of this City, who were really so stupid, that the Notion I have of the Inhabitants of _Beziers_ is the very contrary of what they would fain make me believe.

From _Beziers_ I travell'd to CASTELNAUDARI, in the Neighbourhood of which City was fought the Battle wherein the famous Constable _Montmorency_ was taken in Arms against his King. _Lewis_ XIII. having, at the Solicitation of Cardinal _Richelieu_, order'd his Head to be cut off, he receiv'd the Stroke of Death with a Constancy worthy of his Name, and of a better Cause.

From this City I went in a very little time to Toulouse, the Capital of _Languedoc_, and the Seat of a Parliament, which is the second in the Kingdom: The Cathedral, dedicated to _St. Stephen_, is a magnificent Pile of Building, in a large Square, adorn'd with a fine Fountain, in which rises an Obelisk, that is a complete Piece of Work: The Archbishop's Palace, which joins to the Cathedral, is an entire new Building, wherein no Cost has been spar'd: As to the Houses of _Toulouse_, in common they are well enough built, but without any Ornament: The Streets are pretty broad, but very nasty; so that I inferr'd, the Civil Government here was not very strict: As to the People of _Toulouse_, I own to you, _Madame_, that I could like their Way of Living well enough: They have all a great Share of Wit, but the worst on't is, they are conceited, which does them a Prejudice: But they are very civil, especially to Foreigners, whom they entertain perfectly well: I don't think that I ever fed better, and liv'd more merrily than I did with these People, who are all of 'em good Jokers: The Accent of this Country too, especially of the Women, sets off whatever they say to such an Advantage, as seems to give a witty Turn to even the most common Thoughts: Little Songs or Ballads are, as it were, the Fruits of the Soil: Every one is a Sonneteer, and if their Verses are not equally good, yet they are all relish'd alike, they have such a happy way of setting them off.

To the Honour of the _Languedocians_ be it spoken, there is not a Province in _France_, nor even in _Europe_, where 'tis pleasanter Travelling: The Roads are magnificent, the Inns well provided with every thing that a Traveller, were he hard to please, can desire; and all at a reasonable Price.

From _Toulouse_ I travell'd to PAU, a City and Parliament of _Bearn_, famous for the Birth of _Henry_ IV. on the 1st of _December, Anno 1557_, for which Reason _Catherine de Medicis_ his Mother-in-Law, who did not love him, call'd him the _Bearnois_: In the Castle is still to be seen the Chamber where this Prince was born: This City consists but of one great Street, at the End whereof stands the Castle, which is very ancient. The Houses in general seem'd very inconsiderable, they being all low, small, and without Ornament; but the Suburbs are very pleasant: As one goes out of the Gate, towards the _Pyrenees_, there's a very thick Wood, with several Alleys cut out in it, that form a n.o.ble Walk: From this Wood, which stands upon very high Ground to the _Pyrenees_, one sees an extensive Valley, in which runs a very fine River, on the Banks whereof are several scattering Villages and little Hamlets, that form one of the most agreeable Prospects.