The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 10

The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable. _Philip_ V. it seems intended once to have embellish'd them, and had actually caus'd the Works for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There's nothing in them remarkable besides a Statue of Bra.s.s, which is plac'd in the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall'd in: 'Tis a Statue of _Philip_ II. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture in _Europe_: The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there: The King's Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of very uncommon Animals.

The King and the Queen, whether they are at _Madrid_ or at _Retiro_, always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and when the Levee was notify'd, their Majesties did not rise for all that immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate: After this their Majesties sent for the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, with whom they talk'd about Business, after which they arose: Then Father _Daubanton_ came in, and stay'd with the King a full Hour: His Majesty went afterwards to Ma.s.s, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience to his Subjects, or else went to the Council of _Castile_: Sometimes he employ'd himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out together a Hunting, and return'd somewhat late: As soon as they were come back, they were serv'd with a Collation, which consisted of cold Partridge, of the like to which Collations _M. de Grimaldo_ was admitted: When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign Ministers, or other Persons of Distinction: During these Audiences the King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he sent for the Marquis _de Castelar_ or _Campoflorido_, who stay'd but Half an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their a.s.sociates; and sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at which _M. de Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, and a very great Favourite, was generally present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from Table they went to Bed.

The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing, more gay than those at _Madrid_: I saw the Court more than once at _Aranjuez_, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King.

While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince of _Asturias_, accompany'd by the _Infante_ his Brother and his Governors, hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night.

The King spent the _Easter_-Holidays while I was here at the Palace of _Retiro_: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the Holy Week, which were made upon every _Good-Friday_, to the Palace of _Retiro_, where the King and the Queen, the Prince of _Asturias_ and the Infants saw them pa.s.s: I will frankly confess to you, that I never saw any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions: It seem'd as if they had been resolv'd to turn the most sacred thing in the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz'd, why a Court of Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as big as the Life in various Att.i.tudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited on Mount _Calvary_, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach'd forth to him by a little Angel, that was fasten'd only by a Wire, that it might look as if it hover'd in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder'd, and adorn'd with a Knot of colour'd Ribbons: In short, every Circ.u.mstance of the Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm'd _cap-a-pie_, and bearing Halberds in their Hands: Between every Image march'd the Clergy, and the several Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk'd Men who were cover'd all over with black Cloth, so that 'twas not possible to see so much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment for them to see and breathe thro', tho' they also made Use of it to blow a sort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was follow'd by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to the Waist, whose Bodies were twin'd about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig'd them to hold them extended, as if they had been fasten'd to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and therefore they stay'd and join'd in the Procession, as it came back from _Buen Retiro_.

There were Processions also in the same Taste during the _Easter_ Week, when the Holy Sacrament was carry'd to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry'd under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they danc'd before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church, till such time as the Benediction was p.r.o.nounc'd.

I speak to you of these Ceremonies, _Madame_, as one that saw them with my own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny, invented to run down the Wors.h.i.+p which the Church of _Rome_ pays to the greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the Account of it, were _Calvinists_: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness myself of every thing which I had been a.s.sur'd was observ'd in the Ceremonial of the _Spanish_ Church: For this Reason I attended all these Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really scandaliz'd to see that verify'd which I had only imagin'd to be the Inventions of the Enemies of the Church of _Rome_.

'Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets of _Madrid_, that I question whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those Superst.i.tions: For this, tho' a very fine City, and adorn'd with Squares, in which there are n.o.ble Fountains, and tho' it has Streets moreover which are very s.p.a.cious, strait and lightsome, 'tis nevertheless so very nasty, that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern'd: From all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend, wastes away in one Night's Time, the Air of _Madrid_ is so corrosive: Yet I experienc'd the contrary, and was terribly annoy'd with the Stench of it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets of _Madrid_ is nothing in comparison of what one is forc'd to suffer upon the Days of Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean'd, and then all the Soil being put in Motion, 'tis hardly possible to bear it, especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc'd into fine Dust, the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing that one eats: I heard an _Italian_ Physician say, he was sure that 'twas scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circ.u.mspect and retir'd, to spend Three or Four Years at _Madrid_ without being attack'd with a Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but the _Spaniards_ are not at all frighten'd at it, for they say, that in many Families 'tis hereditary.

The Doctor said, that every thing they breath'd, eat or drank, was poison'd by the Nastiness of _Madrid_.

What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can't imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of the _Spaniards_, for I don't know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so fruitful as their's is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur'd to Labour, are as idle in _Spain_ as the Town's-People: They can hardly be said to till the Ground, for they only sc.r.a.pe away the Surface of it, and then scatter their Seed: Yet 'tis surprizing, that every thing comes up here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated.

The _Spaniards_ being too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour, delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting at _Madrid_: Yet I can a.s.sure you, there is nothing so lamentable as the _Spanish_ Representations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: 'Tis very dark, and over the Benches which are plac'd in Form of an Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro' Grates. The Theatre is made after the manner of _Rome_, being a Row of Portico's, that are screen'd by Curtains, thro' which the Comedians enter upon the Stage: The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more than any thing, was a Common-Sewer, of which I was sensible as soon as I enter'd the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress'd, and for the Generality very ill favour'd, or ill shap'd: The Actresses are more tolerable, but not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet the _Spaniards_ say, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a Part: A Friend of mine actually a.s.sured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament administer'd at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can't imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can tolerate such Abuses.

Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity of this Tribunal while I was in _Spain_: For not many Days after my Arrival at _Madrid_, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18 or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw in _Spain_: She went to her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy'd with the Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all over _Spain_: Above 40 Persons were taken up in one Night at _Madrid_, and among the rest one _Peralte_, a famous Physician, who seem'd to have been fated by his Star to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when she was deliver'd of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: Young _Peralte_ was brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was accus'd, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time, and after I left _Madrid_, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in which the Prayers of his Mother were answer'd, for I was a.s.sur'd, that when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray'd that her Son might one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not at _Madrid_ at the time of this _Peralte_'s Execution, for I had some Knowledge of him, and tho' he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him one of the civillest Men in the World.

I did not set out from _Madrid_ to join my Regiment, but went a quite different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to come at in _Spain_: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I don't believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much a.s.siduity as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father Confessor's Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if he would but have honour'd me with it: I was therefore every Day either in the King's Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father's, if not in both; and I follow'd the Court to all the Pleasure-houses about _Madrid_: I saw the Escurial, a stately Building, which _Philip_ II. caus'd to be erected in Memory of the Victory he gain'd over the _French_ near _St. Quentin_: 'Tis impossible to see a finer Structure than this is. _Philip_ II. intended at first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards he thought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings of _Spain_ are bury'd: The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of Architecture; every Place here s.h.i.+nes with Gold and precious Stones.

_Philip_ V. was at this time building a Palace, now call'd _St.

Ildephonso_, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish'd with n.o.ble Gardens.

The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was in _Spain_ is _Aranjuez_, situate Seven Leagues from _Madrid_, on the Banks of the _Tagus_, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very magnificent: _Charles_ V. caus'd Avenues to be made to it, which are now in their full Beauty: 'Twas at _Aranjuez_ that I determin'd at last to take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of getting any thing, I resolv'd to go to _Holland_, and from thence to _Germany_, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should change my Religion, till Father _Daubanton_, who was not so delicate in things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv'd from that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order'd me to return as soon as possible, which I promis'd, and really design'd; but Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite contrary Course. Mr. _Stanhope_, who was always as generous to me as possible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me 40 Pistoles for my Journey.

I set out from _Madrid_ in Company with a Nephew of _M. de Seissan_, who was going to see his Uncle at _Bilbao_: The Name of this young Gentleman was the Baron _D'V----_: It was not long before I had cause to repent of having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid, that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he very often imagin'd, that he was insulted when People had been at the Expence of paying him a Compliment: This, _Madame_, is a Part of the Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I perceiv'd at a Distance Four Men well arm'd, advancing towards us in the main Road. As we could not avoid pa.s.sing between them, I advis'd my Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well prepar'd, let us pa.s.s, but as we both took them for _Frenchmen_, the Baron _D'V----_ would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them, and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they were _French_ Officers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked in their Turn what News from _Madrid_; during which I observ'd that they were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon I broke off the Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner perceiv'd them, but they turn'd about their Horses, and rode off with such Speed, as confirm'd me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking with Highwaymen; which soon after appear'd to be past all Doubt by our meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil'd with.

Upon the second Day's Journey my Companion and I had some Words together about paying our Quota's: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time never car'd to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal enough, and refus'd at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply'd at last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere I awak'd we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open'd his Lips till we came to _Burgos_.

BURGOS is the Capital of _Old Castile_, and was formerly the Seat of the Kings of _Spain_: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square, surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent Structure, but intirely in the _Gothic_ Taste.

Near _Burgos_ is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as all the Convents of _Spain_ have considerable Revenues: The Country from _Burgos_ to _Vittoria_ is finer and better cultivated than in _New Castile_, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so active to what the _Spaniards_ generally are, that I thought myself in another World.

VITTORIA is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_ retir'd with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when the Archduke _Charles_ the present Emperor, after the Battle of _Saragossa_ advanc'd towards _Madrid_, and thereby oblig'd King _Philip_ to quit _Spain_.

We lodg'd at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than we had yet met with any where in _Spain_: But when we came to pay, behold another new Scene! for my Part, I pay'd my Share without grumbling, because I always observ'd, that make never so many Words it must come to that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part of the Reckoning, I stay'd but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great Noise in the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much astonish'd to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches of those Termagants, and 'twas well I did, for the Landlady had s.n.a.t.c.h'd up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify'd: What gave Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron's Refusal to pay what was demanded of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz'd him by the Collar, and he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had receiv'd; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.

At _Vittoria_ we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad Roads we were to go thro' to _Bilbao_, in a Country abounding with Hills and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly surrounded by 7 or 8 arm'd Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: They ask'd us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of Hors.e.m.e.n just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, and accordingly I order'd the proper Quant.i.ty of Hay to be got ready for the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten'd them; however, they soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming Valley, which, after having travell'd Three or Four Leagues in it, carry'd us to _Bilbao_: This Valley is water'd by a River, the Banks of which are lin'd with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is extremely populous, so that one can't go 200 Paces without coming to a House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their Iron for the best in all _Spain_.

BILBAO is the Capital of _Biscay_, and the prettiest Town that I saw in _Spain_: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a great Trade in Wool with _Holland_, _England_ and _France_, and there are commonly in its Harbour several s.h.i.+ps of these Three Nations. It was formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flouris.h.i.+ng of its Trade; but _Philip_ V. suppress'd that Franchise, and establish'd a Custom-house, which occasion'd a very great Disturbance. The Country-People, who were those that signaliz'd themselves most for the Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag'd several of the Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill'd several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the Insurrection was quickly suppress'd, the Authors of the Tumult were seiz'd, and several of the most mutinous were hang'd, which Examples of Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have depriv'd them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For Instance, A Native of _Biscay_ cannot be sentenc'd to Death for any Crime whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys.

_Catalonia_ formerly enjoy'd the same Privileges, till it was depriv'd of them by _Philip_ V. when he reduc'd that Province.

Near _Bilbao_ on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has been mightily inrich'd by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing struck me more than the High Altar: 'Tis only of Wood indeed, without Painting or Gilding, but the Workmans.h.i.+p of it is surprizing, and it may be look'd upon as Art's Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made this curious Piece of Work, was accus'd of Judaism, and burnt for it, some time after he had finish'd it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought to have pardon'd him, purely for his Ingenuity.

I stay'd longer at _Bilbao_ than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of finding some Vessel that was going to _Holland_; but at last being tir'd with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-s.h.i.+p of _Bilbao_ that was bound for _London_, by which means I had a Sight of _England_ sooner than I expected: We had so fair a Wind during the whole Pa.s.sage, that the Sixth Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually in LONDON[29].

All the Places we pa.s.s'd by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene in the Channel, to see the Mult.i.tude of s.h.i.+ps continually going up and down on one Side or the other: The n.o.ble Sh.o.r.es of the _Thames_, cover'd with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the Riches of _England_: I was pleas'd to see the n.o.ble Foundery of Cannon, Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King's s.h.i.+ps, whereof I saw several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so wealthy a Nation as the _English_. I was above all surpriz'd at the Bulk of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes on board of when _England_ sends him out to Sea. On the left Side of the _Thames_ also, before one comes to _London_, we see a magnificent Building for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King's Yatchs, which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over to _Holland_, when he repairs to his _German_ Dominions: The King's Yatch is very large, and richly carv'd and gilt: From this Place to _London-Bridge_ is nothing to be seen but s.h.i.+ps and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides of the River are lin'd with s.h.i.+ps at Anchor, which forms a magnificent Shew: I fancy that 'tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge of _London_, which, considering the Length of it, and the Tides of Flood and Ebb, to which it is expos'd, ought really to be reckon'd one of the princ.i.p.al Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a bad Prospect.

I went ash.o.r.e near _Whitehall_, which was formerly a magnificent Palace, and the Residence of the Kings of _England_, but had the Misfortune to be consum'd by Fire in the Reign of _William_ III. and _Mary_: What remains of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture, which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. 'Twas at _Whitehall_ that the unfortunate _Charles_ I. was beheaded, and in the Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro' which that Prince pa.s.s'd to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it.

The Palace of _Whitehall_ faces _St. James_'s Park, which is the same to _London_ as the _Thuilleries_ are to _Paris_, tho' the former is much more frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company, Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer'd to walk here as well as Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a s.p.a.cious n.o.ble Ca.n.a.l, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good Order, and especially that call'd the _Mall_, which is the longest of all: On the Right Hand of this Walk going from _Whitehall_ stands _St. James_'s Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs of _England_: 'Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for the Guards about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one on _St. James_'s Side, and the other towards _Whitehall_, and at each there attends a Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King of _Great Britain_'s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those who are admitted being oblig'd to bring Certificates of their Service: They are distinguish'd by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards, the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth lac'd with Gold at all the Seams, and fac'd with blue: They are always booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots till they are reliev'd. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the Order of the Garter embroider'd on the Front with Gold and Silver. The Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress'd after the antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King's Livery, which is of blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of black Velvet, adorn'd with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red Cloaths with blue Facings: This, _Madame_, was what I observ'd when I made my Entrance into _London_.

I steer'd my Course to _St. Anne_'s Quarter, where I had a Direction to some honest _French_ Refugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and his _German_ Court had been so prejudic'd against me by _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, that 'twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his Majesty. The Princess of _Wales_ was concern'd at my Situation, and so good as to make me a Present, but the _Germans_ who were at Court were, like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with keeping no Company but the _English_, of whom I met with several that I had seen in _France_, and with whom I renew'd my Acquaintance: They us'd me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the several Quarters of _London_, where there was any thing worth seeing: They first shew'd me _St. Paul_'s Cathedral, which, next to _St. Peter_'s at _Rome_, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church in _Europe_: It was begun after the great Fire of _London_, in the Reign of _Charles_ II. and not finish'd till the Reign of Queen _Anne_: The Outside of the Structure is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is the Statue of Queen _Anne_ on the right Side of the West-Entrance, which is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life, dress'd in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac'd are of Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have been expected from a Nation so famous as the _English_ for their elegant Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside of _St. Paul_'s Church, which did not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated from the Body of the Church by a Bal.u.s.trade of Wood, resembling a Gate, over which the Organs are plac'd to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir is the Communion-table, fenc'd round with a Bal.u.s.trade and a Form whereon the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is rais'd some Steps above the Ground; and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body: The Preacher's Pulpit, which is plac'd in the middle of the Choir, is a plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so contriv'd, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat like to that of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is for the Bishop of _London_.

From _St. Paul_'s I went to see _Westminster_-Abbey, which being in a Part of the Town at a good Distance from _St. Paul_'s, oblig'd me to take a Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common at _London_; but being made without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses, which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon being the worst in _Europe_, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make Use of this Equipage, as I experienc'd in my Jaunt to the Abbey of _Westminster_. This is the Church in which the Kings of _England_ are consecrated and interr'd: 'Tis a very ancient Pile, without any other Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but of these there are few worthy of Remark: 'Twas in this Church I saw that call'd _St. Edward_'s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is a Press, wherein is preserv'd in Waxwork the Effigy of General _Monk_, who, after the Death of _Cromwell_, restor'd _Charles_ II. to the Throne of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in Waxwork, which represents _Charles_ II. himself as big as the Life, dress'd in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also saw the Waxwork Statue of the d.u.c.h.ess of _Richmond_, in her Habit as d.u.c.h.ess.

In this Church I met With an _English_ Gentleman, an old Friend of mine, who carry'd me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon his Head: As I was inform'd his Stay there would be short, I went out, and plac'd myself in his Pa.s.sage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and preceded by another Coach, in which sate the princ.i.p.al Officers of the Crown: The King of _England_ never rides with this Attendance, but when he goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry'd in a Sedan, with Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard, by the Sides of the Chair; while the Officers that are in Waiting commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses: The Prince and Princess of _Wales_ are attended, when they go out, much in the same manner: I observ'd a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court, _viz_. That when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen.

After I had seen the King pa.s.s by, I went and din'd with my Lord ----, whose Brother I had seen in _Spain_: There I spent the Afternoon, and at Night he carry'd me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas'd, not only with the Performers, who were the best Voices in _Europe_, but with the Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill'd; yet, for all that, I don't think it comes up to the Opera at _Paris_; for this at _London_ is quite dest.i.tute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of the _French_ Actors; but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which the _French_ alone may boast to be their peculiar Perfection: The _English_ Stage has another Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing of Chorus's, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue, 'tis generally compos'd of People that they pick up where they can get them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus'd: The Place where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: 'Tis small, but very lofty, and I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that form an Amphitheatre, which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that it dazzles one's Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the l.u.s.tre of the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers'd all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box.

Some Days after this I went to the _English_ Comedy: I shall say nothing of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it: The Actors seem'd to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any that appear to better Advantage.

The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court of _England_, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc'd me to think of departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours about the City of _London_, in order to see what was most worthy of Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been spoil'd by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke of _Montague_'s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court before it is very large and beautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the nicest Skill: The Ceiling represents _Phaeton_ asking Leave of the Sun to drive his Chariot, and the Fall of _Phaeton_ is describ'd at the Entrance of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish'd.

I went afterwards to see my Lord _Marlborough_'s House, which is very magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof the greatest Number was by _Vand.y.k.e_: After having in like manner taken a View of several other great Houses, of which I don't undertake to give a Description, I was shew'd a Column, which in my Opinion far surpa.s.s'd the famous Pillar of _Trajan_: 'Twas the _Monument_, erected in Memory of the terrible Fire that happen'd at _London_, soon after the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to the Throne of _England_: 'Tis pity but this Pillar had more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There's a _Latin_ Inscription upon it, shewing all the Circ.u.mstances of that sad Misfortune: In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in all _London_ there is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola of _St. Paul_'s.

Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call'd the _Royal Exchange_, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two o'clock: 'Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its princ.i.p.al Front is very magnificent: The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompa.s.s'd with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of _Charles_ II. who is represented standing upright, and dress'd in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of _England_, which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another Statue of _Charles_ II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, but so ill perform'd, that I believe it would have been better if it had never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of _Charles_ I. erected betwixt the _Haymarket_ and _Whitehall_, which is all of Bra.s.s, is much better executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that cast the Horse of _Henry_ IV. at _Paris_; but the Statue of the King was done by another Hand: _Cromwell_, who had no Respect for the Blood of his Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv'd, but caus'd it to be pull'd down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, purchas'd it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he had it brought Home, he caus'd it to be bury'd under Ground, where it remain'd till _Charles_ II. was restor'd to the Throne, and then he made a Present of it to that Prince, who caus'd it to be erected on that Pedestal of white Marble which we now see.

A little Distance from the _Exchange_ is the famous Tower of _London_, which is of the same Use to this City as the _Bastille_ is to _Paris_, with this Difference however, that 'tis not so easy for a King of _England_ to store it, as it is for a King of _France_ to fill the _Bastille_: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form'd of a Number of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the a.r.s.enal, which is the best furnish'd, and kept in the best Condition of any in _Europe_: In this Tower are also preserv'd the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The princ.i.p.al Pieces are 1. The Crown of _Edward the Confessor_, with which the Kings of _England_ are crown'd: 'Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: After I had seen this Crown, I was shew'd that which serv'd for the Coronation of Q. _Mary_, the Daughter of _James_ II. 'Tis cover'd all over with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the Prince of _Wales_'s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I don't pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv'd, to prevent their being stole; for they are only seen thro' a large Iron Grate, so strong, that it would be a hard Matter to force it.

After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry'd into another Room, where I saw all the Statues of the Kings of _England_, from _William the Conqueror_, Duke of _Normandy_, to _James_ II. They are represented in Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour'd, which makes them frightful Objects.

As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I chuse to pa.s.s over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or two of the Character of the _English_ People: I thought _Englishmen_ were much the same in their own Country as the _French_ are out of _France_, that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; and in like manner they are when abroad, what the _French_ are in their own Country, good-natur'd, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the _Italians_ were most esteem'd in _England_, the _French_ and _Germans_ being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the _Germans_ is of no older Date than the Reign of the Elector of _Hanover_; for till then the _English_ look'd upon us as if they neither lov'd nor envy'd us, but now they have a Notion, that the Money of _England_ goes over to _Germany_; and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call'd the House of _Hanover_ to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the _French_, 'tis of a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article of Dress; when the _French_ wear little Hats, the _English_ wear theirs with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in _France_, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too narrow; and 'tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their Dress; so that I am persuaded, the _English_ would soon quit any Fas.h.i.+on, were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the _French_ thought fit to follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fas.h.i.+ons, as well as the _French_, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, there's not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the _English_ do, and really they had need to be as well-shap'd as they are for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.

The _English_ Women are also perfectly well-shap'd, and are for most part pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han't the Art of Dress; and tho' they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour'd to disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos'd before, and on each Side there is a Slit, thro' which they put their Arms: They have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the Chin with a colour'd Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the s.e.x, for 'tis very often us'd by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg'd on board certain Wherries, that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design'd for such Interviews; the very Boats too seem to be made to the Purpose, being cover'd with scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us'd to the Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of _Venice_.

That amiable Freedom which reigns in _England_ gives the People an Air of Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The n.o.bility, the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to Pleasures, the _English_ Nation has Diversions for all Cla.s.ses; and the Mechanic, as well as his Lords.h.i.+p, knows how to make himself merry, when he has done his Day's Work. The _English_ are very much for Shows; Battles especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amus.e.m.e.nt to them, and of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other Beasts, and at other times they have c.o.c.k-fighting: You have undoubtedly heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The c.o.c.ks of _England_ are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten'd to their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The _English_, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; for, it must be observ'd, there is no Nation in the World so fond of laying Wagers as the _English_.

The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen in _England_, there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each other cruelly: The _English_ delight very much in this sort of Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don't bear one another any Malice: I can't conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an Exercise; the rather, because 'tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang'd without Mercy.

There's another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the Summer in a Square near _St. James_'s, with no other Weapons but Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another's Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally regal'd by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour'd to throw one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp'd up his Adversary's Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the Honour to tell you.

After having seen every thing at _London_ worth a Stranger's Curiosity, I was prevail'd on, before I left _England_, to go and take a View of the Royal Palaces in the Country: I saw _Hampton Court_ and _Windsor_, which are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal Palaces of _France_: _Kensington_ Palace pleas'd me well enough: 'Tis a House that formerly belong'd to an _English_ n.o.bleman, of whom King _William_ bought it, because 'twas so near _London_: They were making some Alterations at it when I was there: The King's Apartment is very s.p.a.cious, but not the most magnificent, and 'tis adorn'd with some Paintings by _Vand.y.k.e_, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents King _Charles_ I. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than these Two Pieces are. _Kensington_ Gardens would be very fine for a private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat more magnificent.

Having finish'd my Travels in _England_, where I stay'd near a Month, with a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark'd for _Holland_; but had not a quick Pa.s.sage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz'd us at Sea, so that we could neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had left _London_, we arriv'd in the Mouth of the _Maese_, where we bore a hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into the _Maese_, and by Noon came to _Rotterdam_, from whence I set out the same Day for the HAGUE.