A Book of Discovery Part 33

These were tremendously dressed up in furs, a shapeless ma.s.s, and Ross describes one as resembling "the figure of a globe standing on two pins." They soon became friendly, taking the Englishmen to see their snow huts, drawing them charts of Boothia Gulf beyond Felix Harbour, while in exchange the explorers taught English to the little Eskimo children and ministered to their ailments, the s.h.i.+p's carpenter even making a wooden leg for one of the natives.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROSS'S WINTER QUARTERS IN FELIX HARBOUR.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE FIRST COMMUNICATION WITH ESKIMOS AT BOOTHIA FELIX, JANUARY 1830. SIR JOHN ROSS'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE, 1829-1833. From drawings by Ross in his _Narrative of a Second Voyage in Search of a North-West Pa.s.sage_.]

So the long winter pa.s.sed away. A few land journeys with sledges only ended in disappointment, but at last the vessel was free of ice and joyfully they hoisted her sails. But worse disappointment was in store.

She had sailed for three miles when they met a ridge of ice, and a solid sea forbade any further advance. In vain did they try to saw through the ice. November found the poor _Victory_ hopelessly icebound and her crew doomed to another winter in the same region.

It was not till May that a journey across the land of Boothia to the west coast was possible. Ross and his nephew had been calculating the position of the North Magnetic Pole all the long winter, and with signs of spring they set forth.

"Our journey had a very new appearance. The mother of two Eskimos led the way with a staff in her hand, my sledge following with the dogs and one of the children, guided by one of the wives with a child on her back. After a native sledge came that of Commander Ross, followed by more Eskimos. Many halts were made, as our burdens were heavy, the snow deep, and the ice rough."

After a fortnight's travelling past the chain of great lakes--the woman still guiding them--the Rosses, uncle and nephew, separated.

James Ross now made for the spot where the Magnetic Pole was supposed to be. His own account shows with what enthusiasm he found it. "We were now within fourteen miles of the calculated position of the Magnetic Pole and now commenced a rapid march, and, persevering with all our might, we reached the calculated place at eight in the morning of the 1st of June. I must leave it to others to imagine the elation of mind with which we found ourselves now at length arrived at this great object of our ambition. It almost seemed as if we had accomplished everything that we had come so far to see and to do; as if our voyage and all its labours were at an end, and that nothing remained for us but to return home and be happy for the rest of our days. Amid mutual congratulation we fixed the British flag on the spot and took possession of the North Magnetic Pole and its adjoining territory in the name of Great Britain and King William IV. We had plenty of materials for building, and we therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude under which we buried a canister containing a record of the interesting fact." Another fortnight found the successful explorers staggering back to the _Victory_ with their great news, after an absence of twenty-eight days.

Science has shown that the Magnetic Pole revolves, and that Ross's cairn will not again mark its exact position for many a long year to come.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE ROSSES ON THEIR JOURNEY TO THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE.

From a drawing in Ross's _Second Voyage for a North-West Pa.s.sage_, 1835.]

By the end of August the ice had broken and the _Victory_ was once more in full sail, but gales of wind drove her into harbour, which she never left again. Despite their colossal efforts, it soon became apparent that yet another winter would have to be pa.s.sed in the frozen seas. The entries in Ross's journal become shorter and more despondent day by day. "The sight of ice to us is a plague, a vexation, a torment, an evil, a matter of despair. Could we have skated, it would not have been an amus.e.m.e.nt; we had exercise enough and, worst of all, the ice which surrounds us obstructed us, imprisoned us, annoyed us in every possible manner, had become odious to our sight." By October there was no open water to be seen; "the hopeful did not hope more, and the despondent continued to despair."

This was their third winter in the ice--food was growing scarce, the meat was so hard frozen that it had to be cut with a saw or thawed in warm cocoa. Snow-blindness afflicted many of the men badly. At last came the summer of 1833, but the _Victory_ was still fast in her winter quarters, and all attempts to release her had failed. They now decided to abandon her and to drag their boats over the ice to the wreck of the _Fury_, replenis.h.i.+ng their stores and trusting to some whaler to take them home. We get a pathetic picture. "The colours were hoisted,"

says Ross, "and nailed to the mast, we drank a parting gla.s.s to our poor old s.h.i.+p, and, having seen every man out, I took my own adieu of the _Victory_ in the evening. She had deserved a better fate. It was like parting with an old friend."

On 23rd April the weary explorers began dragging their boats and the last month's provisions over the ice in the face of wind and snow.

The journey was painful and distressing. They found Barrow's Strait full of impenetrable ice, and resolved to pa.s.s the winter on Fury beach, which seemed almost like home to the half-starved men. Erecting a house which they called "Somerset House," they prepared for a fourth winter.

For severity it was unequalled, the crew developed scurvy, and all were suffering sorely when, in the following August, the unfortunate party was rescued by the whaler, "_Isabella_ of Hull, once commanded by Captain Ross." It was the s.h.i.+p in which Ross had made his first Arctic exploration. At first the mate refused to believe the story of these "bear-like" men. The explorers and Ross had been lost these two years. But, almost frantic with delight, the explorers climbed on board the _Isabella_ to be received with the heartiest of cheers when their ident.i.ty was disclosed. "That we were a repulsive-looking people, none could doubt," says poor Ross, "unshaven since I know not when, dirty, dressed in rags of wild beasts, and starved to the very bones, our gaunt and grim looks, when contrasted with those of the well-dressed and well-fed men around us, made us all feel what we really were, as well as what we seemed to others." Then followed a wild scene of "was.h.i.+ng, dressing, shaving, eating, all intermingled," while in the midst of all there were questions to be asked and the news from England to be heard. Long accustomed to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few of them could sleep that night in the comfort of the new accommodation.

They were soon safely back in England, large crowds collecting to get a glimpse of Captain Ross. His own words best end the account of his travels. "On my arrival in London," he says, "on the 20th of October 1883, it became my first duty to repair to the royal palace at Windsor, with an account of my voyage, and to lay at the feet of His Majesty the British flag which had been hoisted on the Magnetic Pole."

[Ill.u.s.tration: "SOMERSET HOUSE," ROSS'S WINTER QUARTERS ON FURY BEACH.

From a drawing in Ross's _Second Voyage for a North-West Pa.s.sage_, 1835.]

CHAPTER LVIII

FLINDERS NAMES AUSTRALIA

We must now return to Australia, as yet so imperfectly explored, and take up the story of the young colony at Sydney.

For seven years it thrived under the careful management of Governor Phillips, who was then replaced by one Hunter. With the new governor from England arrived two young men destined to distinguish themselves in the exploration of New South Wales. They were mids.h.i.+pman Matthew Flinders and surgeon George Ba.s.s. The reading of _Robinson Crusoe_ had created in young Flinders a pa.s.sion for sea-adventure, and no sooner had the _Reliance_ anch.o.r.ed in Sydney harbour than the two young friends resolved on an exploring expedition to the south. For there were rumours afloat that Van Diemen's Land did not join the main continent of New South Wales. Little enough help was forthcoming for the expedition, and the friends had to content themselves with a little boat eight feet long--the _Tom Thumb_--and only a boy to help them.

But with all the eager enthusiasm of youth they sailed from Port Jackson on 25th March 1796. It is impossible to follow all their adventures as they attempted the survey of the coast. A storm on the 29th nearly swallowed up the little _Tom Thumb_ and her plucky sailors.

"At ten o'clock," says Flinders, "the wind, which had been unsettled and driving electric clouds in all directions, burst out in a gale.

In a few minutes the waves began to break, and the extreme danger to which this exposed our little bark was increased by the darkness of the night and the uncertainty of finding any place of shelter. Mr.

Ba.s.s kept the sheet of the sail in his hand, drawing in a few inches occasionally, when he saw a particularly heavy sea following. I was steering with an oar. A single wrong movement or a moment's inattention would have sent us to the bottom. After running near an hour in this critical manner, some huge breakers were distinguished ahead; it was necessary to determine what was to be done at once, for our bark could not live ten minutes longer. On coming to what appeared to be the extremity of the breakers, the boat's head was brought to the wind, the mast and sail taken down, and the oars taken out. Pulling then towards the reef during the intervals of the heaviest seas, in three minutes we were in smooth water--a nearer approach showed us the beach of a well-sheltered cove in which we anch.o.r.ed for the rest of the night.

We thought Providential Cove a well-adapted name for the place."

[Ill.u.s.tration: MATTHEW FLINDERS.]

Important local discoveries were made by the young explorers, and their skill and courage earned for them a better equipment for further exploration. A whale-boat provisioned for six weeks, and a crew of six, were placed at the disposal of Ba.s.s in order that he might discover whether Van Diemen's Land was joined to the mainland or whether there was a strait between. Cook had declared that there was no strait.

Flinders now tells the story of his friend's triumphant success in finding the straits that now bear his name. He tells how Ba.s.s found the coast turning westward exposed to the billows of a great ocean, of the low sandy sh.o.r.e, of the s.p.a.cious harbour which "from its relative position to the hitherto known parts of the coasts was called Port Western." His provisions were now at an end and, though he was keen to make a survey of his new discovery, he was obliged to return. This voyage of six hundred miles in an open boat on dangerous and unknown sh.o.r.es is one of the most remarkable on record. It added another three hundred miles of known coast-line, and showed that the sh.o.r.es of New Holland were divided from Van Diemen's Land. So highly did the colonists appreciate this voyage of discovery that the whale-boat in which Ba.s.s sailed was long preserved as a curiosity.

A small boat of twenty-five tons, provisioned for twelve weeks, was now put at the disposal of the two friends, Flinders and Ba.s.s, to complete the survey of Van Diemen's Land, and in October 1798 they sailed for the south. With gales and strong winds blowing across the channel now known as Ba.s.s Strait, they made their way along the coast--the northern sh.o.r.es of Van Diemen's Land--till they found a wide inlet. Here they found a quant.i.ty of black swans, which they ate with joy, and also kangaroos, mussels, and oysters. This inlet they called Port Dalrymple, after the late hydrographer to the Admiralty in England. On 9th December, still coasting onward, they pa.s.sed Three-Hummock Island and then a whole cl.u.s.ter of islands, to which, "in honour of His Excellency the Governor of New South Wales, I gave the t.i.tle of Hunter's Isles." And now a long swell was noticed from the south-west. "It broke heavily upon a small reef and upon all the western sh.o.r.es, but, although it was likely to prove troublesome and perhaps dangerous, Mr. Ba.s.s and myself hailed it with joy and mutual congratulation, as announcing the completion of our long-wished-for discovery of a pa.s.sage into the southern Indian Ocean."

Calling the point where the island coast turned Cape Grime, they sailed along the western sh.o.r.es, their little boat exposed to the swell of the southern ocean. Sailing joyfully from point to point and naming them at will, the two explorers reached the extreme west, which they called South-West Cape. This had been already sighted by one of Cook's party in 1773. South Cape and Tasman's Head had been likewise charted as points at the extreme south of New South Wales. So the explorers sailed right round the island on which Tasman had landed one hundred and fifty-six years before, and after an absence of five months they reached Sydney with their important news. Ba.s.s now disappears from the annals of exploration, but his friend Flinders went off to England and found in our old friend Banks a powerful friend. He was given a stout north-country s.h.i.+p, H.M.S. _Investigator_ of three hundred and thirty-four tons, with orders to return to New Holland and make a complete survey of the coast, and was off again in July 1801 with young John Franklin, his nephew, aboard.

The _Investigator_ arrived at Cape Leuwin in December and anch.o.r.ed in King George's Sound, discovered by Vancouver some ten years before.

By the New Year he was ready to begin his great voyage round the Terra Australis, as the new country was still called. Indeed, it was Flinders who suggested the name of Australia for the tract of land hitherto called New Holland. His voyage can easily be traced on our maps to-day.

Voyaging westward through the Recherches group of islands, Flinders pa.s.sed the low, sandy sh.o.r.e to a cape he named Cape Pasley, after his late Admiral; high, bleak cliffs now rose to the height or some five hundred feet for a distance of four hundred and fifty miles--the great Australian Bight. Young Franklin's name was given to one island, Investigator to another, Cape Catastrophe commemorated a melancholy accident and the drowning of several of the crew. Kangaroo Island speaks for itself. Here they killed thirty-one dark-brown kangaroos.

"The whole s.h.i.+p's company was employed this afternoon skinning and cleaning the kangaroos, and a delightful regale they afforded after four months' privation from almost any fresh provisions. Half a hundredweight of heads, forequarters, and tails were stewed down into soup for dinner, and as much steaks given to both officers and men as they could consume by day and night."

[Ill.u.s.tration: CAPE CATASTROPHE. From Flinders' _Voyages_.]

In April 1802 a strange encounter took place, when suddenly there appeared a "heavy-looking s.h.i.+p without any top-gallant masts up,"

showing a French ensign. Flinders cleared his decks for action in case of attack, but the strangers turned out to be the French s.h.i.+p _Le Geographe_, which, in company with _Le Naturaliste_, had left France, 1800, for exploration of the Australian coasts.

Now it was well known that Napoleon had cast longing eyes upon the Terra Australis--indeed, it is said that he took with him to Egypt a copy of _Cook's Voyages_. Flinders, too, knew of this French expedition, but he was not specially pleased to find French explorers engaged on the same work as himself. The commanders met as friends, and Baudin, the French explorer, told how he had landed also near Cape Leuwin in May 1801, how he had given the names of his two s.h.i.+ps to Cape Naturaliste and Geographe Bay, and was now making his way round the coast. Flinders little guessed at this time that the French were going to claim the south of New South Wales as French territory under the name of Terra Napoleon, though it was common knowledge that this discovery was made by Englishmen.

"Ah, captain," said one of the French crew to Flinders, "if we had not been kept so long picking up sh.e.l.ls and catching b.u.t.terflies at Van Diemen's Land you would not have discovered this coast before us."

When Baudin put in at Port Jackson a couple of months later, he inquired of the Governor the extent of British claims in the Pacific.

"The whole of Tasmania and Australia are British territory," was the firm answer.

After this encounter Flinders discovered and named Port Phillip, at the head of which stands the famous city of Melbourne to-day, and then made his way on to Port Jackson. He had managed his crews so well that the inhabitants of Port Jackson declared they were reminded of England by the fresh colour of the men amongst the _Investigator_ s.h.i.+p's company. The Frenchmen had not fared so well. One hundred and fifty out of one hundred and seventy were down with scurvy and had to be taken to the hospital at Sydney.

Before the end of July, Flinders was off again, sailing northwards along the eastern coast of New South Wales. October found him pa.s.sing the Great Barrier reefs, and on the 21st he had reached the northernmost point, Cape York. Three days of anxious steering took the _Investigator_ through Torres Strait, and Flinders was soon sailing into the great Gulf of Carpentaria. Still hugging the coast, he discovered a group of islands to the south of the gulf, which he named the Wellesley Islands, after General Wellesley, afterwards Duke of Wellington. Here he found a wealth of vegetation; cabbage palm was abundant, nutmegs plentiful, and a sort of sandal-wood was growing freely. He spent one hundred and five days exploring the gulf; then he continued his voyage round the west coast and back to Port Jackson by the south. He returned after a year's absence with a sickly crew and a rotten s.h.i.+p. Indeed, the _Investigator_ was incapable of further service, and Flinders decided to go back to England for another s.h.i.+p.

As pa.s.senger on board the _Porpoise_, early in August 1802, he sailed from Sydney for the Torres Strait accompanied by two returning transports. All went well for the first four days, and they had reached a spot on the coast of Queensland, when a cry of "Breakers ahead!"

fell on the evening air. In another moment the s.h.i.+p was carried amongst the breakers and struck upon a coral reef. So sudden was the disaster that there was no time to warn the other s.h.i.+ps closely following. As the _Porpoise_ rolled over on her beam ends, huge seas swept over her and the white foam leapt high. Then the mast snapped, water rushed in, and soon the _Porpoise_ was a hopeless wreck. A few minutes later, one of the transports struck the coral reef: she fell on her side, her deck facing the sweeping rollers, and was completely wrecked. The other transport escaped, sailed right away from the scene of disaster, and was never seen again by the crew of the _Porpoise_. The dawn of day showed the s.h.i.+pwrecked crew a sandbank, to which some ninety-four men made their way and soon set sailcloth tents on the barren sh.o.r.e.

They had saved enough food for three months. Flinders as usual was the moving spirit. A fortnight later in one of the s.h.i.+p's boats, with twelve rowers and food for three weeks, he left Wreck Reef amid ringing cheers to get help from Sydney for the eighty men left on the sandbank.

"The reader," says the hero of this adventure, "has perhaps never gone two hundred and fifty leagues at sea in an open boat or along a strange coast inhabited by savages; but, if he recollect the eighty officers and men upon Wreck Reef, and how important was our arrival to their safety and to the saving of the charts, journals, and papers of the _Investigator's_ voyage, he may have some idea of the pleasure we felt, particularly myself, at entering our destined port."

Half-starved, unshaven, deplorable indeed were the men when they staggered into Sydney, and "an involuntary tear started from the eye of friends.h.i.+p and compa.s.sion" when the Governor learnt how nearly Flinders and his friends had lost their lives.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE HUTS OF THE CREW OF THE _PORPOISE_ ON THE SANDBANK, WRECK REEF. From Flinders' _Voyages_.]

A few days later Flinders left Sydney for the last time, in a little home-built s.h.i.+p of twenty-nine tons, the _c.u.mberland_. It was the first s.h.i.+p ever built in the colony, and the colonists were glad it should be of use to the man who had done so much for their country.

With all his papers and his beloved journals, Flinders put to sea accompanied by a s.h.i.+p to rescue the men left on Wreck Reef. Three months later, owing to the leaky condition of the s.h.i.+p, he landed at Mauritius.

Here he was taken prisoner and all his papers and journals were seized by the French. During his imprisonment a French_ Voyage of Discovery_ was issued, Napoleon himself paying a sum of money to hasten publication. All the places discovered by Flinders, or "Monsieur Flinedore" as the French called him, were called by French names.

Fortunately before reaching Mauritius, Flinders had sent duplicate copies of his charts home, and the whole fraud was exposed. Flinders did not reach home till 1810. A last tragedy awaited him. For he died in 1814, on the very day that his great book, _The Voyage to Terra Australis_, was published. Flinders was a true explorer, and as he lay dying he cried, "I know that in future days of exploration my spirit will rise from the dead and follow the exploring s.h.i.+p!"