The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa, in the Year 1805 Part 15

June 24th.--Left Sullo, and travelled through a country beautiful beyond imagination, with all the possible diversities of _rock_, sometimes towering up like ruined castles, spires, pyramids, &c. We pa.s.sed one place so like a ruined Gothic abbey, that we halted a little, before we could satisfy ourselves that the niches, windows, ruined staircase, &c.

were all natural rock. A faithful description of this place would certainly be deemed a fiction.

Pa.s.sed a hill composed of one h.o.m.ogeneous ma.s.s of solid rock (red granite) without a detached stone or blade of gra.s.s; never saw such a hill in my life. In the course of the march saw several villages romantically situated in the crescents formed by the rocky precipices; the medium height of these precipices is from one hundred to five or six hundred feet perpendicular. The whole country between the Ba fing and Ba lee is rugged and grand beyond any thing I have seen.

We reached _Secoba_ at noon. The Dooty of this town is Fajemmia's younger brother. Presented him with goods to the amount of 50 bars; he was so much pleased that he said he would go with us till we had crossed the _Ba fing_, and see that the canoe people did not impose on us.

Obser. Mer. Alt. of Jupiter ' "

115 28 0 ---------- 57 44 0 0 0 36 ---------- 57 43 24 ---------- 32 16 36 18 49 10 ---------- Lat.i.tude 13 27 26

June 25th.--Halted at _Secoba_, in order to refresh the sick; bought plenty of fowls and milk for them.

June 26th.--Departed from Secoba, accompanied by the Dooty and several people. Hired three of the Dooty's friends, as guides to Kandy, in that district of Fooladoo called Gangaran. About seven miles East of Secoba came to the village of Konkromo, where we pitched our tents by the river side. The day was too far spent before we had agreed with the canoe people, and, as we could not possibly carry all the loads over, thought it best to wait till next morning. As I thought it probable that we should have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of Jupiter's first satellite, I took the following alt.i.tudes for the time.

H. M. S. ' H. M. S. ' H. M. S. '

5 25 55 45 36 5 30 2 43 47 5 36 22 40 55 0 26 53 45 13 0 30 42 43 28 0 37 3 40 35 0 27 37 44 55 0 31 25 43 10 0 37 44 40 17

Observed the emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter.

H. M. S.

By watch - - - - 9 26 20

Time by Nautical Almanack - 9 24 53 Equation - - - 0 2 15 -------- Mean time at Greenwich 9 27 8 9 27 8 -------- Watch too slow 0 0 48

Longitude 32 m. 24 sec. or 8 6' W.

June 27th.--Early in the morning paid the canoe people 50 bars to carry over all our baggage and cattle, and likewise presented the Dooty of _Secoba_ with some beads.

Four canoes sufficient to carry only an a.s.s load and an half at a time, were provided for this purpose. Sent over Mr. Anderson and six men with their arms to receive the loads from the canoes and carry them into the tents. The a.s.ses were made to swim over, one on each side of the canoe, two boys sitting in the canoe and holding them by the ears.

At this place I had an opportunity of seeing their mode of smelting gold.

Isaaco had purchased some gold in coming through Konkodoo, and here he had it made into a large ring. The smith made a crucible of common red clay and dried it in the sun: into this he put the gold, without any flux or mixture whatever; he then put charcoal under and over it, and blowing the fire with the common double bellows of the country, soon produced such a heat as to bring the gold into a state of fusion. He then made a small furrow in the ground, into which he poured the melted gold; when it was cold he took it up, and heating it again, soon hammered it into a square bar. Then heating it again, he twisted it by means of two pairs of pincers into a sort of screw; and lengthening out the ends, turned them up so as to form a ma.s.sy and precious ring.

When the baggage and cattle were all transported over, I sent over the men, and embarked myself in the last canoe; but as one of the soldiers in the other canoe had gone out to purchase something, I made the canoe in which I was shove off, telling the men to come off the moment the man returned. I found it difficult to sit in the canoe so as to balance it, though it contained only three people besides the rower. We had just landed on the East bank, when we observed the canoe, in which were the three soldiers, pus.h.i.+ng off from the opposite bank. It shortly after overset, and though the natives from the sh.o.r.e swam in to their a.s.sistance, yet J. Cartwright was unfortunately drowned. The natives dived and recovered two of the muskets, and Cartwright's body; they put the body in the canoe and brought it over. I used the means recommended by the Humane Society, but in vain. We buried him in the evening on the bank of the river.

The Ba fing is here a large river quite navigable; it is swelled at this time about two feet, and flows at the rate of three knots per hour. The people here are _all thieves:_ they attempted to steal several of our loads, and we detected one carrying away the bundle in which was all our medicines. We could not sleep with the noise of the hippopotami, which came close to the bank and kept snorting and blowing all night. The night being clear, observed the emersion of Jupiter's second satellite; it emerged

H. M. S.

By watch - - - - 11 25 55 Time by Nautical Almanack 11 24 40 Equation - - - 0 1 53 -------- Mean time at Greenwich 11 26 33 11 26 33 -------- Watch too slow 0 0 38

June 28th.--Purchased an a.s.s for four minkallis of gold, and a horse for 45 bars. Set forwards about seven o'clock. After travelling four miles, the a.s.s I had purchased lay down, and I found it impossible to raise him.

Took off the load and left him. At ten o'clock came close to the bottom of a high rocky hill, which rises like an immense castle from the level plain: it is called _Sankaree_: and on enquiring about a large heap of stones near the foot of the precipice, I was told that the town of Madina, which was in the vicinity, was some years ago stormed by the Kaartans, and that the greater part of the inhabitants fled towards this hill. Some however were killed on the road, and these stones were collected over the grave of one of them. He said there were five more such near the hill, and that every person in pa.s.sing, if he belongs to the same family or _contong_, thinks himself bound to throw a stone on the heap to perpetuate the memory of their friend. These heaps are precisely what in Scotland are called _Cairns_. This hill is accessible only by one very narrow and difficult path. They a.s.sured me that there was abundance of water on the summit at all seasons, and that the huts built by the Madina people were still standing on the summit, though out of repair.

At eleven o'clock crossed a stream, like a mill stream, running North. We halted on the East side of it; found that one of the a.s.ses with a load of beads had not come up. The soldier who drove it (Bloore), without acquainting any person, returned to look for it. Shortly after the a.s.s and load were found in the woods. Sent the serjeant after Bloore on one of the horses; he rode back as far as Sankaree without seeing him, and concluded he had lost the path. He found one of the sick (Walter) who had wandered from the track (for there was no road); and had laid himself down among the bushes till some of the natives discovered him. Paid the natives ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Bloore.

In the afternoon collected the a.s.ses for marching. Had great difficulty in finding the horses, one of which (the serjeant's), after all our search could not be found. As it was in vain to wait for Bloore, put on the loads and departed. It is to be observed that there is no path-way in these woods, and we found much difficulty in keeping together: fired muskets frequently to give intimation of our line of march. After travelling about four miles, Shaddy Walter, the sick man before mentioned, became so exhausted that he could not sit on the a.s.s. He was fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and shortly after died. He was brought forwards to a place where the front of the coffle had halted, to allow the rear to come up. Here when the coffle had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their bayonets, and myself with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert; and a few branches were the only laurels which covered the tomb of the brave.

We did not come up to the coffle till they had halted for the night near a pool of water shaded with ground palm-trees. Here I was informed that two of the soldiers were not come up; one (Baron) was seen about a mile from the halting place; the other (Hill) was supposed to be three or four miles behind. Fired two muskets every quarter of an hour; one to call their attention, and the other about half a minute after to give the direction. At half past seven Hill came up, being directed entirely by the sound of the muskets. At eleven o'clock saw some lights in the woods, and heard people holla: in a little time five people came, bringing with them Bloore, the man who had gone in quest of the a.s.s. He had gone back as far as the Black River, crossed it and made signs to the people about the a.s.s and the load. As they did not rightly understand him, they thought that some party had fallen on the coffle, and that this soldier had run away. They therefore came with him to see if they could come in for their share, or at least receive some reward for coming along with the man. Paid them ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Baron, and I would give them ten bars more if they found him.

June 29th.--At day-break fired muskets for Baron; and as it was evident he must have wandered from the track made by the a.s.ses, and it was in vain to look for him in so extensive a wilderness, at half past six o'clock loaded the a.s.ses and set out. Two more of the soldiers affected with the fever. Route in the morning rocky. Traveled twelve miles without halting, in order to reach a watering place. About two miles before we came to the watering place, Bloore, the soldier who had come up during the night, sat down under the shade of a tree; and when I desired him to proceed, he said he was rather fatigued, and when he had cooled himself, he would follow. I a.s.sured him that the halting place was only a very little way off, and advised him by all means not to fall asleep. We halted on an elevated table land: the water was only rain collected in the hollow places of the rock. At half past four o'clock, as Bloore had not come up, I sent the Sergeant on one of the horses to bring him forward; he returned at sun-set, having seen nothing of him, and having rode several miles past the place. I suspected that the serjeant might have rode past him asleep under the tree; I therefore got three volunteers to go with me, and look for him. It was now quite dark. We collected a large bundle of dry gra.s.sland taking out a handful at a time, kept up a constant light, in order to frighten the lions which are very numerous in these woods. When we reached the tree under which he lay down, we made a fire. Saw the place where he had pressed down the gra.s.s, and the marks of his feet: went to the west along the pathway, and examined for the marks of his feet, thinking he might possibly have mistaken the direction. Found none: fired several muskets. Hollowed, and set fire to the gra.s.s. Returned to the tree and examined all round; saw no blood nor the foot marks of any wild beasts. Fired six muskets more.

As any further search was likely to be fruitless, (for we did not dare to walk far from the track for fear of losing ourselves) we returned to the tents. One of Isaaco's people shot an antelope in the evening, which more than supplied us all with meat. Much troubled in the night with wolves.

June 30th.--Early in the morning set forwards, and descended from the table land into a more fertile plain. Vast numbers of monkies on the rocks. Reached Kandy after a march of ten miles, all very much fatigued.

This is but a small town; the large town having been taken and burnt by Daisy's son about two years ago, and all the people carried away. Mr.

Anderson and Mr. Scott sick of the lever.

July 1st.--Covered a load of beads with the skin of the antelope. One of the bundles containing all our small _seed beads_ stolen during the night; made all the search I could, but in vain: I could not recover it.

As we were short of rice, and none could be purchased here, determined to push on as quick as possible; but the men were so very sickly, that I judged it imprudent to trust the baggage and a.s.ses without proper drivers. Employed in dividing the a.s.ses amongst the healthy men.

July 2d.--Set forwards. Two more of the soldiers sick of the fever. When we had travelled about three miles, one of the soldiers (Roger M'Millan) became so delirious, that it was found impossible to carry him forwards.

Left him at a village called _Sanjeekotta_. I regretted much being under the necessity of leaving in the hour of sickness and distress, a man who had grown old in the service of his country. He had been thirty-one years a soldier, twelve times a corporal, nine times a serjeant; but an unfortunate attachment to the _bottle_ always returned him into the ranks.

We reached _Koeena_ about three o'clock, all very much fatigued. I felt myself very sickly, having lifted up and reloaded a great many a.s.ses on the road. The village of _Koeena_ is walled round, and it is surrounded on three sides with rocky precipices. Had a severe tornado at seven o'clock, which put out the watch-fire and made us all crowd into the tents. When the violence of the squall was over, we heard a particular sort of roaring or growling, not unlike the noise of a wild boar; there seemed to be more than one of them, and they went all round our cattle. Fired two muskets to make them keep at a distance; but as they still kept prowling round us, we collected a bunch of withered gra.s.s, and went with Lieutenant Martyn in search of the animals, suspecting them to be wild boars. We got near one of them, and fired several shots into the bush, and one at him as he went off among the long gra.s.s. When we returned to the tents, I learned by enquiring of the natives that the animals we had been in search of were not boars, but young lions; and they a.s.sured me that unless we kept a very good look out they would probably kill some of our cattle during the night. About midnight these young lions attempted to seize one of the a.s.ses, which so much alarmed the rest that they broke their ropes, and came at full gallop in amongst the tent ropes. Two of the lions followed them, and came so close to us that the sentry cut at one of them with his sword, but did not dare to fire for fear of killing the a.s.ses. Neglected to wind up the watch.

July 3d.--Departed from Koeena, and halted during the heat of the day at Koombandi, distant six miles. Here the guides that I had hired from Kandy, were to return; and I had agreed with them to carry back M'Millan's knapsack, and some amber and beads to purchase provisions for him; but three people came up to us with two a.s.ses for sale, and they informed me that they left Sanjeekotta early in the morning; that the soldier who was left there, had died during the night, and the natives had buried him in a corn field near the town. Purchased the a.s.ses in order to carry forwards the sick.

About three o'clock left Koombandi. Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott were so sick, that they wished to remain here for the night; with much entreating, persuaded them to mount their horses and go on. Three miles east of the village, William Alston, one of the seamen whom I received from His Majesty's s.h.i.+p Squirrel, became so faint that he fell from his a.s.s, and allowed the a.s.s to run away. Set him on my horse, but found he could not sit without holding him. Replaced him on the a.s.s, but he still tumbled off: put him again on the horse, and made one man keep him upright, while I led the horse. But as he made no exertion to keep himself erect, it was impossible to hold him on the horse, and after repeated tumbles he begged to be left in the woods till morning. I left a loaded pistol with him, and put some cartridges into the crown of his hat. At sun-set reached Fonilla, a small walled village on the banks of the Wonda, which is here called _Ba Woolima_ (Red river), and towards its source it has the name of _Ba qui_ (White river), the middle part of its course being called _Wonda._ It had swelled two feet perpendicular by the rains which had fallen to the southward, and was very muddy; but cannot even in its present state be reckoned a large river.

July 4th--Agreed with the canoe people to carry over our baggage and cattle for sixty bars. There being but one canoe, it was near noon before all the bundles were carried over. The transporting of the a.s.ses was very difficult. The river being shallow and rocky; whenever their feet touched the bottom they generally stood still. Our guide, Isaaco, was very active in pus.h.i.+ng the a.s.ses into the water, and shoving along the canoe; but as he was afraid that we could not have them all carried over in the course of the day he attempted to drive six of the a.s.ses across the river farther down where the water was shallower. When he had reached the middle of the river a crocodile rose close to him, and instantly seizing him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful presence of mind he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his finger into its eye; on which it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further sh.o.r.e, calling out for a knife. But the crocodile returned and seized him by the other thigh, and again pulled him under water; he had recourse to the same expedient, and thrust his fingers into its eyes with such violence that it again quitted him; and when it rose, flounced about on the surface of the water as if stupid, and then swam down the middle of the river. Isaaco proceeded to the other side, bleeding very much. As soon as the canoe returned I went over, and found him very much lacerated. The wound on the left thigh was four inches in length: that on the right not quite so large, but very deep; besides several single teeth wounds on his back. Drew the lips of the wounds together with slips of adhesive plaister secured with a roller; and as we were not far from a village, he thought it best for him to go forwards before his wounds had become very painful. He accordingly rode forwards to the village of Boolinkoomboo on one of our horses. Found myself very sick, and unable to stand erect without feeling a tendency to faint; the people so sickly that it was with some difficulty we got the loads put into the tents, though it threatened rain. To my great astonishment, _Ashton_, the sailor whom I had left in the woods the evening before, came up quite naked, having been stripped of his clothes by three of the natives during the night. Found his fever much abated.

[Footnote: The name is thus written in Mr. Park's MS.; but it seems to be a mistake for _Alston_, v. ante p. 87.]

July 5th.--With great difficulty got the a.s.ses loaded, but had not a sufficient number of spare a.s.ses for the sick. Set one of them on my horse, and walked, feeling a remission of the fever, though still very giddy and unwell. We soon reached Boolinkoomboo, it being only two miles from the landing place. This village is sometimes called Moiaharra: it does not contain above one hundred people. On collecting the a.s.ses, found that three were missing, besides a sickly one, which was too weak to cross the river, and was eaten by the people of Fonilla. All this diminished our means of carrying forward the sick.

I now found my situation very perplexing. To go forward without Isaaco to Keminoom, I knew would involve us in difficulties; as Keminoom's sons are reckoned the greatest thieves and blackguards on the whole route. To stop till Isaaco recovered (an event which seemed very doubtful), would throw us into the violence of the rains. There was no other person that I could trust; and, what was worst of all, we had only _two days rice_, and a great scarcity prevailed in the country. I determined to wait three days, to see how Isaaco's wounds looked, and in the mean time sent two of his people away to Serracorra with an a.s.s and three strings of No. 5.

amber to purchase rice.

July 6th.--All the people either sick, or in a state of great debility, except one. Bought all the milk I could find, and boiled a camp kettle full of strong decoction of barks every day.

July 7th.--Dressed Isaaco's wounds: they looked remarkably well.

July 8th.--Waiting very anxiously for the return of Isaaco's people with the rice, being now on very short allowance.

July 9th.--In the afternoon Isaaco's people returned, bringing with them l23 lbs. of clean rice; Isaaco's wounds looking well, and beginning to discharge good pus. Lat.i.tude by uncertain obs. mer. alt. of the sun 13 11'.

July 10th.--Departed from Boolinkoomboo, and eight miles N.E. pa.s.sed the village of Serrababoo; close to which is a stream called Kinyaco, about knee deep, running to the N.W. It was very difficult to cross, on account of the fissures in the rocks which form its bed. Several of the a.s.ses fell, and their loads were of course wet. From this we travelled due North, over a ridge of rocks, which formed the only pa.s.sage across a chain of hills. When we had crossed this, we travelled six miles on a rocky and almost impa.s.sable road, and a little before sun-set, to our great joy, reached Sabooseera (Dooty Matta). This is a scattered unwalled village. Lat.i.tude by mer. alt. of moon 13 50'.

Chapter IV.

Arrival at Keminoom, or Manniakorro, on the Ba lee river.--Visit to the Chief.--Depredations upon the coffle by the inhabitants--Continued attacks from banditti as far as the Ba Woolima river--Difficulties in pa.s.sing it--temporary bridge made by the natives.--Astronomical observations--Arrival at Mareena; inhospitable conduct of his inhabitants--Banga.s.si; interview with the King--Continued sickness, and deaths among the soldiers.--Arrival at Nummasoolo--Obliged to leave five of the sick behind--reach Surtaboo--Sobee--Affray between Isaaco and two soldiers--Balanding--Balandoo--More of the soldiers fall behind--Koolihori--Greatly annoyed by wolves.

CHAPTER IV.