The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa, in the Year 1805 Part 17

July 23d.--Received a present from Serenummo, the King, of a fine bullock and two very large calabashes of sweet milk; he likewise sent the two a.s.ses which the people of Mareena had stolen. Took from our baggage the following articles, and went with Isaaco to the King.

Bars.

To the King, amber No. 2 30 Ditto. No. 4 20 Barraloolos 30 Beads 30 Looking gla.s.ses 5 b.a.l.l.s and flints 2 ----- Bars 117

Mr. Anderson's musket.

Ditto sword.

Ditto pistols.

To the King's son, amber No. 4 5 Barraloolo 5 ------ Bars 10

To the person who a.s.sisted in settling the palaver, amber 10 To the good people in the town 10 To Isaaco's landlord for a goat 10 ------ Bars 30

The town is large and populous, and is better fortified than even Maniakorro. We found Serenummo seated in a sort of shade, surrounded by only a few friends; orders having been given not to allow any person to enter it. He enquired if I was the white man who had formerly pa.s.sed through the country, and what could induce me to come back again; with a number of such questions. To all which I gave the best answers I could; and then told him that I did not come to purchase slaves or gold; I did not come to take any man's trade from him or any man's money; I did not come to make money, but to spend it; and for the truth of these a.s.sertions I could appeal to every person who knew me or had travelled with me. I farther added, it was my intention at present to travel peaceably through his kingdom into Bambarra; and that as a mark of my regard for his name and character, I had brought a few articles which my guide would present to him. Here Isaaco spread out on the floor the articles before mentioned. The King looked at them with that sort of indifference which an African always affects towards things he has not before seen. However much he may admire them, he must never appear in the least surprised. He told me I should have permission to pa.s.s; and he would make his son take care of us till we arrived at Sego; but it would be some days before he was ready. I told him I was anxious to be in Bambarra, as I found my people very sickly; and if he would appoint me a guide, I would esteem it a favour. In fact I knew before, that this son proposed going to Sego with the annual tribute, which amounts to three hundred minkallis of gold or thereabouts; but I knew that the gold was not yet all collected, and that part of it would probably be bought with the merchandize I had given him.

July 25th.--Bought two a.s.ses for fifty-six bars of amber. During our stay at this town we were plentifully supplied with milk on moderate terms. I always purchased two camp kettles full every morning for the men, in hopes of recruiting them before we set forwards for the Niger; but they still continue sick and spiritless. Corporal _Powal_ is dangerously ill of the fever, and _M'Inelli_ is affected with the dysentery to such a degree, that I have no hopes of his recovery. He was removed yesterday to the shade of a tree at a small distance from the tents; and not being brought near in the evening, he was very near being torn to pieces by the wolves. They were smelling at his feet when he awakened, and then set up such a horrid howl, that poor M'Inelli, sick as he was, started up and came to the tents before the sentry could reach the place where he had slept.

July 26th.--Corporal Powal died during the night. Buried him this morning; two dollars and a half in his pocket, for which I am accountable. Overhauled the a.s.s-saddles, and adjusted the loads, proposing to leave this to-morrow morning early.

Observed mer. alt. Sun 168 26 0 ------------ 1/2 84 13 0 0 16 0 ------------ 84 29 0 ------------ ZD. 5 31 0 D. 19 31 0 ------------ Lat.i.tude 14 0 0 ------------

July 27th.--The morning being rainy, we did not depart from Banga.s.si till about nine o'clock. Left here M'Inelli. Paid the Dooty ten bars of amber to purchase provision for him and give him lodging. Shortly after leaving the town, three of the soldiers laid down under a tree, and refused to proceed; their names _Frair, Thomson_, and _Hercules_. About a quarter of a mile farther, James Trott, one of the carpenters brought from Portsmouth, refused to go on, being sick of the fever. I drove on his a.s.s, and desired him to return to Banga.s.si. Found myself very sick and faint, having to drive my horse loaded with rice, and an a.s.s with the pit saws. Came to an eminence, from which I had a view of some very distant mountains to the East half South. The certainty that the Niger washes the Southern base of these mountains made me forget my fever; and I thought of nothing all the way but how to climb over their blue summits.

Reached Nummasoolo at two o'clock. This has formerly been a large town; but being destroyed by war some years ago, nearly three-fourths of the town are in ruins. Before we had time to pitch the tent properly, the rain came down on us, and wetted us all completely, both men and bundles. This was a very serious affair to us, many of our articles of merchandize being perishable. Slept very uncomfortably in wet clothes on the wet ground. Troubled in the night with a lion; he came so near that the sentry fired at him, but it was so dark that it was impossible to take a good aim. All the a.s.ses pulled up the pins to which they were fastened, and run together as near the men as they could. As the sick soldiers before mentioned did not come up before sun-set, I concluded they had all returned to Banga.s.si; and the Dooty's son coming up on horseback, informed me that they had really returned to his father's house, and wished to know what I meant to do respecting them. I told him that I wished my people to be taken proper care of, and gave him ten bars of amber for his care in coming to inform me of them. I likewise put into his possession three strings of amber of forty bars each, and told him how to dispose of them for the use of the sick. I likewise told him that, if any of them should recover, if he would send a proper person forward with them to Bambakoo, I would give him an Indian baft, or ten bars of scarlet, which he preferred. At the same time I wrote the following note to the men.

"DEAR SOLDIERS,

"I am sorry to learn that you have returned to Banga.s.si. I have sent in charge of the bearer of this three complete strings of amber; one of which will procure rice for forty days; the second will purchase milk or fowls for the same time; and the third will buy provisions for you on the road till you arrive at the Niger.

"Your's

"M. PARK."

July 28th.--Rained all day. Remained in the tent at Nummasoolo.

July 29.--Divided the men's clothes who were left behind amongst the other men; many of them being in great want of clothes, and the nights being now cold and damp. Found five dollars in J. Trott's knapsack, for which I am accountable. Spread out the rice to dry; found it hot and much damaged. Some people arrived from the East, who informed us that a stream on the road, which is usually dry, was so much swelled by the rain that no a.s.s could cross it. Halted here during the day to dry the different articles.

July 30th.--Departed from Nummasoolo. Was under the necessity of leaving here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted much leaving this man; he had naturally a cheerful disposition; and he used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our dear native land.

About five miles East of Nummasoolo pa.s.sed the stream before mentioned, flowing to the S.E. The water had subsided, and was only about eighteen inches deep, but flowed very rapidly. Many a.s.ses fell, and had their loads wetted. It likewise rained two hours on the march. Crossed a ridge of hills through an opening. Road tolerably good except in two places.

We descended on the East side, and reached Surtaboo, a small ruined village, about two o'clock. Here I learnt that the front of the coffle had gone on to a village about four miles further; but the a.s.ses in the rear being all very much fatigued, and lying down with their loads frequently, I judged it prudent to halt till some fresh a.s.ses should be sent to my a.s.sistance.

We had not halted here above an hour, when three of Isaaco's people and two a.s.ses came back; and with their help we arrived at _Sobee_ at seven o'clock. On the road we pa.s.sed the _last_ of the St. Jago a.s.ses, the whole forty having either died or been abandoned on the road at different places. We were all very wet, for it rained almost the whole way; and all very hungry, having tasted nothing since the preceding evening. The town of _Sobee_ has changed its situation _three_ times. It was taken about ten years ago by Daisy, King of Kaarta, with thirteen hors.e.m.e.n and some of his slaves on foot. They carried off five hundred slaves, two hundred of which were women. Such as escaped rebuilt the town about a mile to the East of its former situation; but when it had acquired some degree of prosperity, it was destroyed by Mansong, King of Bambarra. The present town is built nearer the foot of the hills; part of it is walled, which serves as a sort of citadel. There is plenty of corn and rice here on moderate terms; but they have not yet had time to recruit their herds of cattle.

July 31st.--Rained hard all the morning, and flying showers all day.

Halted at _Sobee_. During the night one of the town's-people attempted to steal one of the soldier's pieces, some of which were standing against a tree close to the tent. Lieutenant Martyn was sleeping under the tree; and hearing somebody moving the muskets, he no sooner observed that it was a Negro, than he s.n.a.t.c.hed one of the muskets and fired at the thief as he was running off with one of the muskets. Whether the ball touched him or not we could not learn; but the thief dropped the musket, and we found it with the pouch and bayonet in the morning.

August 1st.--Early this morning purchased an a.s.s for a pistol, a baft, and a Mandingo cloth. We set out at seven o'clock. Immediately on the East of the town came to another stream flowing towards the S.S.W. It was so deep, that the whole of the bundles had to be carried over on men's heads. During this, being surrounded by thieves on all sides, Isaaco unfortunately struck two of the soldiers; which action had nearly cost him his life, one of the soldiers attempting to stab him with his bayonet, when Mr. Anderson prevented him; and as I reproved Isaaco for his conduct in the sharpest manner, he went off in a _pet_ with his people, leaving us to find our way across the river in the best manner we could. I hired four people to carry over the loads; and stood myself as sentry over the thieves. In this manner the whole of the baggage was carried over with much less loss than we had sustained at any other river. The a.s.ses were swam over, and the whole only cost one string of No. 5; but I had to pay fifty stones to the Dooty's son for a.s.ses going on the corn. As soon as all was over we loaded the a.s.ses and set forwards. At sunset we reached _Balanding_. We had only time to pitch our tent, when the rain came on; indeed we had no time for cooking our victuals, for though all the soldiers cooked, yet the rain came on before our kettle was ready; and Messrs. Anderson, Scott, Martyn, and myself, all slept without having tasted any thing during the day.

August 2d.--Rainy. Halted at Balanding.

August 3d.--Sun rose E. 3S. Departed from Balanding, and halted at Balandoo, a walled village about four miles to the East by South. Bought two sheep for one barraloolo.

August 4th.--Departed from Balandoo. About a mile to the East saw the hill of Sobee bearing N.W. by compa.s.s. About this place Lawrence Cahill, one of the soldiers, who had complained of sickness for some days, fell behind; and I hired a person to drive his a.s.s, telling him to come on at his leisure. At eleven o'clock crossed a stream running S.E. which gave us great trouble, the banks being very steep and slippery. Crossed the same stream again at half past twelve, running E. by N. In the course of this day's march four of the soldiers were unable to attend to their a.s.ses. Mr. Scott, being very sick, rode my horse; and I drove one of the a.s.ses. So very much weakened were the men, that when their loads fell off, they could not lift them on again. I a.s.sisted in loading thirteen a.s.ses in the course of the march. We reached Koolihori at three o'clock.

This town is partly walled; but the greater part of the huts are without the walls. As soon as the tents were pitched, the rain commenced, and continued all night. We had not time to cook, and the rain prevented the watch fire from burning; owing to which one of our a.s.ses was killed by the wolves. It was only sixteen feet distant from a bush under which one of the men was sleeping.

August 5th.--Morning hazy. Halted, resolving to travel at two o'clock, and sleep in the woods, the Ba Woolli being too far to reach in one march. Bought some ripe maize of this year's growth.

Obser. mer. alt. Sun-- 172 45 0 --------- 86 22 0-1/2 0 16 0 --------- 86 38 0-1/2 --------- 3 22 0 17 3 0 --------- Lat.i.tude-- 13 41 0

The whole route from Banga.s.si is marked with ruined towns and villages; some of them are rebuilt, but by far the greater number are still in ruins. We saw scarcely any cattle on the route, and the avidity of the people of Koolihori for animal food, or perhaps their own peculiar taste, made them eat what the wolves had left of our a.s.s. The wolves had eat only the bowels and heart, &c. so that the people had the four quarters and head. The day having clouded up for rain, resolved to halt here for the night. In the course of the afternoon Lawrence Cahill came up; but William Hall, who had gone into a ruined hut near the road, and who did not appear to be very sick, did not arrive. Suspected that he might be killed by the wolves in the hut during the night. At sun-set had all the a.s.ses properly tied near the tents; and watched myself with the sentries all night, as the wolves kept constantly howling round us.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Koolihori--Ganifarra--Scarcity of provisions--Distressing situation of the Author from deaths and sickness of the party--Escapes from three lions--Intricate route to Koomikoomi--Dombila--Visit from Karfa Taura--View of the Niger--Reduced state of the party--Bambakoo-- Losses from wolves--Bosradoo; embark on the Niger; incidents in the voyage to Marraboo--Isaaco sent to Sego with presents for Mansong-- Message from Mansong--Course to Koolikorro--Deena--Yamina--Samee-- Return of Isaaco; account of his interview with Mansong--Messengers sent by Mansong, and enquiries respecting the Author's journey--Quit Samee--Excessive heat--Reach Sansanding--Account of that city and its trade--Death of Mr. Anderson--Preparations for continuing the voyage eastward--Information collected respecting various districts.

CHAPTER V.

August 6th.--Having hired two more a.s.s drivers at one bar and their victuals per day, we left Koolihori early in the morning, and travelled with considerable dispatch till three o'clock; at which time we reached Ganifarra, a small beggarly village. In the course of this march _L.

Cakill_ and _J. Bird_, two of the soldiers, and _William c.o.x_, one of the seamen, fell behind, and laid down. As soon as the front of the coffle had reached Ganifarra, it came on a very heavy rain. Being in the rear I was completely drenched; and two of the a.s.ses carrying four trunks, in which were the gun stocks, pistols, looking gla.s.ses, &c. fell down in a stream of water near the town, and all the contents were completely wet. I could purchase nothing here, not so much as a fowl.

Served out a short allowance of rice, being very short of that article.

August 7th.--During the night, some person had stolen one of our best a.s.ses; and as the load must be left if we could not recover it, Isaaco's people having traced the foot marks to a considerable distance, agreed to go in search of it. Isaaco gave them the strictest orders, if they came up to the thief in the woods to shoot him; and, if not, to follow him to a town and demand the a.s.s from the Dooty; if he refused to give it up, to return as soon as possible.

Spent the day in drying such things as were wet; cleaned and greased with Shea b.u.t.ter all the ornamented pistols, _ten pair_. Dried the looking gla.s.ses, which were quite spoiled. In the afternoon sent two of the natives away with goods to a neighbouring town to purchase rice and corn. At sun-set _Bird_ came up, but had seen nothing of _c.o.x_ nor _Cahill_.

August 8th.--People not yet returned. Opened the trunk which contained the double barrelled gun stocks; cleaned and greased them. About noon people returned with the rice and corn, but not quite sufficient for one day. Nearly at the same time Isaaco's people came up with the a.s.s; they had traced his foot-marks past Koolihori, and found him at Balandoo. Did not see the thief, but learned his name; which Isaaco promised to write to his friend at Banga.s.si, to inform Serinummo of him. In the afternoon agreed with the Dooty for thirty five bars to carry every thing over.

Rained heavily all the evening.

August 9th.--Michael May, a soldier, having died during the night, buried him at day break. Had all the loads taken to the crossing place by eight o'clock. The Ba Woolli is nearly of the same size as the one we formerly crossed of that name; it appeared to be exceedingly deep, and flowed at the rate of four or five miles per hour. There is a very good canoe here, which can carry over four a.s.s loads at once. As it threatened rain, sent over three men with one of the tents, and pitched it on the East side about half a mile from the river; the ground near the bank being marshy. Hired people to carry down the bundles, and put them into the canoe; and others to receive them on the other side, and carry them up the bank; so that the soldiers had nothing to move, being all weak and sickly.

By one o'clock all the baggage was over; but we found some difficulty in transporting the a.s.ses; the rapidity of the stream swept the canoe and the first six past the landing place; and they went so far down the river, that I really thought the a.s.ses must be drowned; which would have been an irreparable loss in our situation. However, by the exertions of the Negroes, who swam in with ropes to the canoe, the a.s.ses were landed on the other side; where they stood by the water's edge until the Negroes with their corn hoes made a path for them up the steep bank. To prevent such an accident, we took the ropes from several of our loads, and fastened them together, so as to reach across the river; with this we hauled over the loaded canoe, and the Negroes paddled it back when empty. In this manner all the a.s.ses and horses were swam over without any loss.

When the bundles were all carried up to the tent, we found that we had not more rice than was barely sufficient for the present day; and as no more could be purchased, we had no alternative, but to march early in the morning for Bambarra; the distance by all accounts would not exceed fourteen or fifteen miles.

August 10th.--William Ashton declared that he was unable to travel; but as there was no place to leave him at, I advised him to make an exertion and come on, though slowly, till he should reach a place where he could have food. At eight o'clock set forwards; and travelled very expeditiously without halting till four in the afternoon, at which time the front of the coffle reached _Dababoo_, a village of Bambarra. Being in the rear, I found many of the men very much fatigued with the length of the journey and the heat of the day. At half past four I arrived with the a.s.s I drove at a stream flowing to the Westwards.