Library Bookbinding Part 19

LOOSE JOINTS

It frequently happens that a book in the original publisher's cover becomes loose at the joint, because the super used as back-lining cannot stand the strain put upon it. Ordinarily, a book defective in this manner should be bound at once; but if it is deemed best to attempt mending it, a strip of jaconet should be cut 1-1/4 inches wide and the length of the book. Paste one-half of this to the cover and the other to the adjoining fly-leaf, thus transferring the strain from the super to the fly-leaf. This method can also be used to mend a break in the middle of a book, but should never be used if the book must eventually be rebound.

Another method of mending a loose joint is to remove the book entirely from the cover, sew on new end papers guarded with muslin, and cover the back of the book with canton flannel which extends three-fourths of an inch on each side. When dry, paste the entire back of book and sides and put the book back into the cover, pasting down the new end paper. This is, in effect, recasing. (See page 184.)

Sometimes books which are loose at the joints and have loose signatures may be mended by applying paste with a long-handled paste brush to the backs of the signatures. This must never be done if it is possible that the book will need to be rebound later.

FLY-LEAVES

To add new fly-leaves, cut paper suitable for this purpose the same length as the old fly-leaves and one-half inch wider. Fold over this one-half inch, paste it on the outside and attach it to the old fly-leaf. If necessary, this may be used as a new end paper and pasted to the cover over the old end paper. If used as an end paper, the book should be pressed promptly to prevent it from warping.

REPAIR OF MAPS

All old or mutilated maps or charts must be flattened out by placing the maps between large millboards with heavy weights over them, before they can be inserted in books. Repairs may be made with onion skin paper or any other thin, tough paper, the same as is done with torn leaves in books. If the map is very old and valuable, it may be advisable to use paper which resembles in a way the texture and color of the map itself.

It is advisable to mount all maps on some kind of cloth. It is best to have this done by a regular binder, but it may be done in the library if there is sufficient room.

If the map is to go on rollers, a piece of cotton cloth is tacked to a large table, the top of the cloth pasted, and the map placed on top, back down, all wrinkles having been removed. Millboards or strawboards are then placed on the map and weights placed on top until it is dry.

This may take some time, after which it may be tacked to the rollers.

If it is a folding map or chart, it may be necessary to cut the map into sections before mounting. When mounted there will be one-eighth of an inch s.p.a.ce between sections, so that the map itself will not be defaced through constant folding. The mounting of such maps is a difficult task and should be done only by an expert.

RECASING BOOKS

1. Remove book from the cover; cut out old super from the back of the cover; thoroughly clean the back of the book of super and glue without injuring the backs of the signatures. Lift the lining-paper from the back and front boards of the cover and remove the old super. Sc.r.a.pe with a knife the glue which does not come off with the super. If the back of the book seems to be much thicker than the fore edge, pound down with a backing-hammer.

2. Cut strips of muslin (or canton flannel) a little shorter than the height of the book, wide enough to cover the back and to extend over the boards 1-1/4 inches on each side.

3. Cut enough flexible glue to fill a double-boiler glue pot half full when dissolved. When the water comes to a boil the glue, which must be used hot to get good results, will generally be ready to use. If it is still too thick, add a little hot water to thin it.

4. Turn back the lining paper on front and back covers, spread the glue on the inside of the back of the cover and on the boards where the lining has been turned back.

5. Put the strip of muslin in the place just glued; then rub down the lining paper over the muslin.

6. Even up the book by tapping it on the table so that no leaves will project at the top, bottom or front.

7. Holding the book firmly in the hand, glue the back.

8. Place the back on the muslin lining previously glued to the back of the cover, care being taken to see that the book is not put in upside down.

9. Fold over the cover and, taking the entire book firmly in the left hand, with the right hand push the book firmly back into the cover. This will prevent it from becoming concave.

10. Crease the joints with a bone folder and rub down the back.

11. When the book is dry, open it and, if necessary, paste new papers over the inside covers. This is necessary, because it is frequently impossible to turn back the lining and remove the old super without making an unsightly piece of work.

RECOVERING

Rules for recovering can be used only when books do not need to be resewed.

1. Remove cover from the main part of the book.

2. Remove with a dull knife the cloth from the outside and inside of the cover until the two boards are clean, being careful not to cut into the board itself. It is not worth while to remove old paper sides or end papers.

3. Remove superfluous glue, super, etc., from the back. If the book has been overcast, and small strips of leather have been placed over the back, paste the ends of these strips of leather to the end papers. Such a book will also have end papers guarded which will remain as an integral part of the book.

4. If the book has not been overcast, it will be necessary to add end papers. This can be done by using two sheets which when folded once will be the size of the leaves of the book. One of these should be a 60-pound and the other an 80-pound manila paper, both guarded entirely around the fold with jaconet. Whipst.i.tch the 60-pound fly-leaves to the first and last sections of the book, then whipst.i.tch the 80-pound, being careful to pa.s.s the needle back through the first section. Paste one of the fly-leaves and one of the end papers together.

If the book has been oversewed, cut the end papers of 80-pound manila or 60-pound kraft paper the size of the book and paste on the entire surface of the fly leaves which are integral parts of the book. It will not be necessary to guard these new end papers.

5. Trim the new fly leaves and end papers the exact size of the book.

6. Mark the boards and book with corresponding numbers so as to identify them.

7. Place boards on the book to within one-eighth of an inch of the back and mark the distance from the back.

8. Measure exactly the distance across the back between marks just made on the end papers.

9. Select the proper cloth with which to cover the book. Place the boards on the cloth, allowing the width necessary for the back as measured in No. 8.

10. Mark around boards on cloth.

11. Cut cloth, allowing approximately an inch and a quarter all around outside edge of the boards.

12. Glue the entire surface of the cloth.

13. Place boards on markings previously made, pressing down firmly on the glued cloth.

14. Put stiff paper, previously cut to the proper size, on the glued cloth between the boards, to prevent the glue from sticking to the back of the book. This should not be done if the book must have a tight back.

15. Turn in the corners as follows: Take the exact corner of the cloth and turn it straight in over the corner of the board. Next turn in the end and then the side. Rub down well with a bone folder.

16. With bone folder, round the corners, and crease the joints at the back.

17. Put the case so formed into a press for a few minutes.

18. Cut a strip of thin, tough muslin or canton flannel one-half inch shorter than the height of the book and wide enough to extend an inch on each side of the book.

19. Glue the back of the book and put on the muslin or canton flannel.

20. Glue the entire surface of the completed case.

21. With the fore edge in the right hand, lay book in its proper place on the right-hand cover, draw up the left-hand cover and lay it on top.

Open the book, rub down the end papers well with bone folder, and rub down the back; also crease the joints.

22. Put book in press over night.