Knots, Bends, Splices Part 6

(3). +An American Whipping+ is sometimes used for the ends of hawsers.

It is commenced in the same way as a common whipping, but finished off by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping and forming a reef knot. This is done by leaving the first end out when you commence to pa.s.s the turns on the bight over the last end.

(4). +To Point a Rope End+.--First put a stop on at twice and a half the circ.u.mference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the length for pointing, unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the strands. Split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of each yarn. (A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger and thumb left-handed.) When the nettles are made stop them back on the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the rest of the yarns by sc.r.a.ping them down to a proper size with a knife, and marl them down together with twine; divide the nettles, taking every other one up and every other one down. Pa.s.s three turns with a piece of twine--which is called the warp--very taut round the part where the nettles separate, taking a hitch with the last turn. Continue to repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down, pa.s.sing the warp or "filling," taking a hitch each time, until the {58} point is to its required length. It is generally finished off by working a small Flemish eye in the end (Figs. 106 and 107).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 106. Fig. 107.]

(5). +Turk's Head+.--The Turk's Head is one of the most common of the ornamental knots used at sea, and is formed from an ordinary clove hitch (Fig. 108) made sufficiently slack to allow for the working of the other parts.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 108.]

Having formed the clove hitch, pa.s.s _b_ over _c_ and tuck _a_ under and up through the bight formed by _c_ as in Fig. 109. It will then be found that there is another twist in {60} the parts _b_ and _c_, tuck _a_ under _e_ and over _b_. Then go on as in Fig. 109, and put _b_ over _c_ again and tuck _a_ as before. The number of crossings required depends princ.i.p.ally on the size of the material on which the Turk's Head is formed. To finish off as in Fig. 110, the part _a_ is made to follow _d_ (Fig 108) round for three times.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 109.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 110.]

(6). +Mousing a Hook+.--All hooks in running gear should be moused as in Fig. 111.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 111.]

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(7). +Securing Lead Line to Lead+.--The lead is fitted with a good wire grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye spliced in it, and is secured by pa.s.sing the eye through the grommet and over the lead (Fig. 112).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 112.]

(8). +Fitting a Flag+.--A toggle should be secured at the head of the hoist by an eye splice; a length of rope equal to the width of the flag left below the hoist, as this is the distance the flags should be apart, and then a running eye splice made so as to be rapidly attached to the next flag.

(9). +To Stick a Cringle+.--First unlay a single strand from {62} the size of rope your cringle is required to be, whip both ends, reeve the strand through the left hand eyelet hole in the sail, having one end longer than the other--nearly a third--keeping the roping of the sail towards you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the parts of the strand together, counting three lays; commence with the short end of the strand towards you, then reeve the long strand from you through the right hand eyelet hole, taking it through the cringle, and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant s.p.a.ce left in the cringle; when done, the one end will hang down inside the right hand eyelet hole and the other end outside the left hand one; the ends are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet holes and pa.s.sed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you; then take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of cringle nearest to it; then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch, heaving them well in place; the cringle is then fidded out, and the thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail. The ends of the strand are then tucked back, left-handed, under one strand, again under two, right-handed, as in the first place, heaving them taut in place {63} at each tuck, the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns and cut off. If a large cringle is needed, count an extra number of lays--5, 7, etc., always an odd number.

(10). +To Finish a Cringle off on the Crown+.--Commence as before, but after laying up the strand, instead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are rove through their respective eyelet holes and tucked back under two strands of the cringles and again laid up as far as the crown, forming a four-stranded cringle, and finished off by tucking the ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and cut close off.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 113. Fig. 114.]

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In working a cringle in a piece of rope the only difference is there are no eyelet holes, therefore the strand is tucked under two strands of the rope it is to be worked in.

(11). +To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand+.--Say it is necessary to give a sail one cloth more spread, it would then be necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope. Supposing the width of cloth to be 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 in. After ripping the rope off four cloths, first of all cut the strand at the distance 2 ft.

6 in. from each other as in Fig. 115.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 115.]

Cut one of the strands at _a_ and unlay it to _c_, then cut one of the strands remaining at _c_ and unlay it to _b_, laying the strand _a_ up again as far as _b_; then cut the only remaining strand at _b_, which will be the centre, when your rope will be in two parts. By following the plan the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut. The rope will now appear as in Fig. 116.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 116.]

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Now marry the long end _a_ to the end _b_, then lay up the long strand _c_ in the lays of the strand _a_, and marry it to the other strand _b_ as in Fig. 117.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 117.]

Take a strand about 10 ft. in length of the same size rope and marry one end to the short strand _a_ as shown above, then fill up the s.p.a.ce left from _a_ to _c_ by laying in the new strand, and marry the other end to the short strand _c_. You will then have four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices (Fig. 118).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 118.]

(11). +Jury Knot+. The jury knot is useful when a jury mast has to be rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports to the mast. The centre _k_ (Fig. 120) is slipped over the masthead, and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its position on the mast.

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It is formed by three ordinary half-hitches, each placed behind the other and with the loop of the last laid over the first, as in Fig. 119.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 119.]

Having done this, keep the hitches together with the right hand, and with the left take _a_ and dip it under _b_ and pull _c_ through _a_ and _b_. Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place _f_ over _e_, and pull _d_ between _e_ and _f_. Take _g_ in the teeth and pull on the parts _g_, _f_, and _a_. The ends _h_ and _z_ may be either knotted or spliced.

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[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 120.]

(13). +Sling for a Barrel+.--The following method of slinging a barrel is adopted when it is desired to hoist it up end on.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 121.]

Pa.s.s the bight _a_ of the rope under the lower end of the barrel and bring the two parts up, and with them {68} form an overhand knot _b_, which is opened out so as to fit over the end of the barrel.

The bight _a_ is placed under the cask, and the overhand knot _b_ is slipped over the head, and the two ends are brought up and knotted as in Fig. 122.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 122.]

(14). +Chain Knot+.--An easy and ornamental way of shortening a rope is that known as the chain knot.

To form it proceed as though you are going to make an ordinary overhand knot, but instead of working with both ends use the end and a bight as in Fig. 123.

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This will form the loop _a_, Fig. 123, through which pa.s.s a bight of _b_ and continue in this way until all the slack rope is used up, and it can be finished off by running the end through the last loop (Fig.

124).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 123. Fig. 124.]

(15). +Double Chain+.--The Double Chain is a little more intricate than the chain knot, and is formed by taking a turn round the standing part and thus forming a loop {70} _c_, through which the end _a_ is pa.s.sed, thus forming the loop _b_ (Fig. 125).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 125.]

The end _a_ is brought back and dipped down through _b_ and this is continued as long as required, finis.h.i.+ng off by running the end through the last bight and hauling it taut (Fig. 126).