Explorations in Australia Part 15

Our route lay by way of Kolonaday, North Spring, Tinderlong, and Bilyera to Yuin, Mr. Burges's princ.i.p.al station, which we reached on the 9th, and remained until Monday the 13th. Then we started on a route east-north-east, and camped that night at a rock water-hole called Beetinggnow, where we found good feed and water. My brother and Kennedy went on in advance to Poondarrie, to dig water-holes, and we rejoined them there on the 14th. This place is situated in lat.i.tude 27 degrees 48 minutes 39 seconds South, and longitude 116 degrees 16 minutes 11 seconds East.

On the following day we were very busy packing up the rations, for I had arranged to send back the cart, gone on in advance. We had eight months'

provisions, besides general baggage, and I certainly experienced some difficulty in arranging how to carry such a tremendously heavy load, even with the aid of eighteen pack-horses, and a dozen natives who accompanied us. I intended to start on the 16th, but one of the horses was missing, and, although Pierre and I tracked him for five miles, we were compelled to give up the search for that night, as darkness came on, and return to camp. On the following day, however, we followed up the tracks, and caught the horse after a chase of twenty miles. He had started on the return journey, and was only a mile from Yuin when we overtook him.

CAMELS AND HORSES IN THE DESERT.

By half-past nine on the morning of the 18th we had made a fair start.

The day was intensely hot, and as we had only three riding-horses, half of the party were compelled to walk. We travelled in a north-easterly direction for eleven miles, and reached a spring called Wallala, which we dug out, and so obtained sufficient water for our horses. I may mention here that Colonel Warburton and other explorers who endeavoured to cross the great inland desert from the east had the advantage of being provided with camels--a very great advantage indeed in a country where the water supply is so scanty and uncertain as in Central Australia. As we ascertained by painful experience, a horse requires water at least once in twelve hours, and suffers greatly if that period of abstinence is exceeded. A camel, however, will go for ten or twelve days without drink, without being much distressed. This fact should be remembered, because the necessity of obtaining water for the horses entailed upon us many wearying deviations from the main route and frequent disappointments, besides great privation and inconvenience to man and beast.

The 19th was Sunday, and, according to practice, we rested. Every Sunday throughout the journey I read Divine Service, and, except making the daily observations, only work absolutely necessary was done. Whenever possible, we rested on Sunday, taking, if we could, a pigeon, a parrot, or such other game as might come in our way as special fare. Sunday's dinner was an inst.i.tution for which, even in those inhospitable wilds, we had a great respect. This day, the 19th, ascertained, by meridian alt.i.tude of the sun, that we were in lat.i.tude 27 degrees 40 minutes 6 seconds South. We had several pigeons and parrots, which, unfortunately for them, but most fortunately for us, had come within range of our guns.

While thus resting, Police constable Haydon arrived from Champion Bay, bringing letters and a thermometer (broken on the journey), also a barometer. When he left we bade good-bye to the last white man we were destined to see for nearly six months.

After the usual difficulty with the horses, which had again wandered, we started on Monday, the 20th, at half-past ten, and steering about 30 degrees East of north for seven miles, came to a spring called Bullardo, and seven miles farther we camped at Warrorang, where there was scarcely any water or feed. We were now in lat.i.tude 27 degrees 33 minutes 21 seconds South, Cheangwa Hill being North 340 degrees East magnetic.

I now take up the narrative in the words of my Journal, which will show the reason for ultimately adopting the third of the routes which the letter of instructions left to my discretion.

April 21st.

Continued on North 340 degrees East to Cheangwa Hill four miles; thence northerly, pa.s.sing Koonbun, and on to a place called Pingie, on the Sandford River. From camp to Pingie, Barloweery Peaks bore North 322 degrees East magnetic, Cheangwa Hill North 207 degrees East, lat.i.tude 27 degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds. Found water by digging. Rather warm; barometer rising. Clear flats along water-courses; otherwise dense thickets.

THE MURCHISON RIVER.

22nd.

Continued northerly; at twelve miles crossed the dividing range between the Sandford and other creeks flowing into the Murchison. Camped at a granite hill called Bia, with a fine spring on its north side. Got a view of Mount Murchison, which bore North 7 degrees East magnetic from camp.

Fine gra.s.sy granite country for the first eight miles to-day. Splendid feed at this camp. Travelled about fifteen miles. Lat.i.tude by meridian alt.i.tude of Regulus 27 degrees 7 minutes South. Walking in turns every day.

23rd.

Steering a little west of north over level country for six miles, with a few water-courses with white gums in them, we came into granite country with bare hills in every direction. Kept on till we came to a brook with pools of fresh water, where we camped about one mile from the Murchison River. Lat.i.tude 26 degrees 52 minutes 38 seconds, Mount Murchison bearing North 50 degrees East. Went with Pierre to a peak of granite North 50 degrees East, about one mile and a half from camp, from which I took a round of angles and bearings. Travelled about eighteen miles to-day.

24th.

At one mile reached the Murchison River, and followed along up it. Fine gra.s.sy flats, good loamy soil, with white gums in bed and on flats.

Travelled about fourteen miles, and camped. Rather brackish water in the pools. Lat.i.tude of camp 26 degrees 42 minutes 43 seconds by Regulus. Shot seven ducks and eight c.o.c.katoos. Saw several kangaroos and emus. Rain much required. Mount Murchison bears from camp North 122 degrees East, and Mount Narryer North 14 degrees East magnetic.

25th.

Continued up river for about nine miles, and camped at a fine spring in the bed of river, of fresh water, which I named Elizabeth Spring; it is surrounded by salt water, and is quite fresh. Mount Narryer bore from camp North 4 degrees East magnetic, and Mount Murchison North 168 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic. Windich shot an emu, and some ducks were also shot. Fine gra.s.sy country along river; white gums in flats; large salt pools. Very hot weather; thermometer 90 degrees in pack-saddle.

26th (Sunday).

Did not travel to-day. Plotted up track and took observations for time and longitude. Barometer 29.18; thermometer 83 degrees at 6 p.m. Lat.i.tude of camp 26 degrees 35 minutes 8 seconds South by Regulus.

27th.

Travelled up river for about sixteen miles; camped at a fine fresh pool in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 24 minutes 52 seconds South, Mount Narryer bearing North 238 degrees East, and Mount Dugel North 334 degrees East magnetic.

Fine gra.s.sy country along river. Shot six ducks; great numbers were in the river, also white c.o.c.katoos. Very warm mid-day; cloudy in evening.

Marked a tree F on the right bank of river.

A SOLITARY CAMP OUT.

28th.

Followed up the river. Fine pools for the first six miles, with numbers of ducks in them. After travelling about twenty miles we lost the river from keeping too far to the east, and following branches instead of the main branch--in fact, the river spreads out over beautifully-gra.s.sed plains for many miles. Fearing we should be without water, I pushed ahead, and after following a flat for about six miles, got to the main river, where there were large pools of brackish water. As it was getting late, returned in all haste, but could not find the party, they having struck westward. I got on the tracks after dark, and, after following them two miles, had to give it up and camp for the night, tying up my horse alongside. Neither food nor water, and no rug.

29th.

I anxiously awaited daylight, and then followed on the tracks and overtook the party, encamped on the main branch of the river, with abundance of brackish water in the pools. Shot several c.o.c.katoos. From camp Mount Narryer bore North 211 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and Mount Dugel 225 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic. Camp is in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 6 minutes 12 seconds. Marked a tree with the letter F on right bank of river.

30th.

Two of the horses could not be found till half-past twelve. After this we continued up the river over well-gra.s.sed country for about ten miles.

Camped at a small pool of fresh water, in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 2 minutes 52 seconds, which we luckily found by tracking up natives. Large pools of salt water in river. Three walking and three riding every day. Set watch to-night, two hours each.

May 1st.

Followed up river, keeping a little to the south of it for about fifteen miles. We camped on a splendid gra.s.sy flat, with a fine large pool of fresh water in it. Shot several ducks. This is the best camp we have had---plenty of gra.s.s and water--and I was very rejoiced to find the month commence so auspiciously. Barometer 29.10; thermometer 78 degrees at 5.30 p.m.; lat.i.tude 26 degrees 0 minutes 52 seconds South. Sighted Mount Gould, which bore North 58 degrees East magnetic. Marked a white gum-tree F 20, being 20th camp from Geraldton.

MEETING NATIVES.

2nd.

Steered straight for Mount Gould, North 58 degrees East, for sixteen miles, when I found I had made an error, and that we had unknowingly crossed the river this morning. After examining the chart, I steered South-East towards Mount Hale and, striking the river, we followed along it a short distance and camped at some brackish water, Mount Hale bearing North 178 degrees East, and Mount Gould North 28 degrees East. Barometer 28.96; thermometer 77 degrees at 5.30 p.m. As Pierre was walking along, he suddenly turned round and saw four or five natives following. Being rather surprised, he frightened them by roughly saying, "What the devil you want here?" when they quickly made off. Windich and I then tried to speak to them, but could not find them. Lat.i.tude 25 degrees 57 minutes 32 seconds South; longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes East.

3rd (Sunday).

Went to summit of Mount Hale in company with Pierre, and after an hour's hard work reached it. It was very rough and difficult to ascend. The rocks were very magnetic; the view was extensive; indeed, the whole country was an extended plain. To the east, plains for at least thirty miles, when broken ranges were visible. Mount Gould to the North-North-East showed very remarkably. Mount Narryer range was visible.

To the south, only one hill or range could be seen, while to the South-East broken ranges of granite were seen about thirty miles distant.

Mount Hale is very lofty and rugged, and is composed of micaceous iron ore, with brown hemat.i.te; being magnetic, the compa.s.s was rendered useless. Returned about one o'clock. Windich and the others had been out searching for fresh water, and the former had seen three natives and had a talk with them. They did not appear frightened, but he could not make anything out of them. They found some good water. Barometer, at 6.30 p.m., 28.88; thermometer 76 degrees. Took observations for time and longitude. We are much in want of rain, and thought we should have had some, but the barometer is rising this evening. To-morrow we enter on country entirely unknown.

4th.

Started at nine o'clock, and, travelling North-East for three miles, came to junction of river from Mount Gould, when we got some fresh water, also met two natives who were friendly, and they accompanied us. We took the south or main branch of river, and, steering a little south of east for about nine miles, over splendidly-gra.s.sed country, we camped on a small pool of fresh water on one of the courses of the river, Mount Gould bearing North 334 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and Mount Hale North 228 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic. Barometer 28.90; thermometer 76 degrees at 6 p.m.; lat.i.tude 25 degrees 54 minutes 37 seconds by Regulus.

Marked a tree F 22, being 22nd camp from Geraldton.

LOFTY RANGES.

5th.

We travelled up easterly along the river, which spreads out and has several channels, sometimes running for miles separately, then joining again. There were many fine fresh pools for the first four miles, after which they were all salt, and the river divided into so many channels that it was difficult to know the main river. After travelling about sixteen miles over fine gra.s.sy plains and flats, we were joined by seven natives, who had returned with the two who had left us this morning. They told us that there was no fresh water on the branch we were following, and we therefore followed them North 30 degrees East for seven miles (leaving the river to the southward), when they brought us to a small pool in a brook, where we camped, Mount Gould bearing North 285 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, Mount Hale North 250 degrees East magnetic.

Lat.i.tude 25 degrees 52 minutes from mean of two observations. Barometer 28.78; thermometer 77 degrees at 6 P.M.

6th.

Three of the natives accompanied us to-day. We travelled east for six miles, when I ascended a rise and could see a river to the north and south; the one to the north the natives say has fresh water. As the natives say there is plenty of water ahead, North 70 degrees East, we continued onwards to a hill, which I named Mount Maitland. After about twenty miles we reached it, but found the spring to be bad, and after digging no water came. For our relief I tied up the horses for some time before letting them go. Ascending the hill close to the camp, I saw a very extensive range, and took a fine round of angles. The compa.s.s is useless on these hills, as they are composed of micaceous iron ore, with brown hemat.i.te, which is very magnetic. To the east a line of high, remarkable ranges extend, running eastwards, which I have named the Robinson Range, after his Excellency Governor Robinson. One of the highest points I named Mount Fraser, after the Honourable Commissioner of Crown Lands, from whom I received much a.s.sistance and consideration, and who has aided the expedition in every possible way; the other highest point, Mount Padbury, after Mr. W. Padbury, a contributor to the Expedition Fund. The river could be traced for thirty miles by the line of white gums, while to the south long lines of white gums could also be seen. I am not sure which is the main branch, but I intend following the one to the north, as it looks the largest and the natives say it has fresh water. Barometer 28.45; thermometer 69 degrees at 6 p.m.; lat.i.tude 25 degrees 46 minutes South. The last thirty-five miles over fine gra.s.sy plains, well adapted for sheep-runs; and water could, I think, be easily procured by digging, as well as from the river.

7th.

The three natives ran away this morning, or at least left us without asking leave. We had to keep watch all last night over the horses to keep them from rambling. Got an early start, and steering North 70 degrees East for about twelve miles, we reached the river, and camped at a fresh pool of splendid water. This is a fine large branch; it is fresh, and I believe, if not the main, is one of the largest branches. The country is now more undulating and splendidly gra.s.sed, and would carry sheep well.

The whole bed of the river, or valley, is admirably adapted for pastoral purposes, and will no doubt ere long be stocked. Lat.i.tude 25 degrees 42 minutes 12 seconds South, and longitude about 118 degrees 9 minutes East.

Barometer 28.57; thermometer 75 degrees at 5.30 p.m. Marked a white gum on right bank of river F 25, being the 25th camp from Champion Bay.

8th.

Continued up the river for about fifteen miles, the stream gradually getting smaller, many small creeks coming into it; wide bed and flat.

Fine gra.s.sy country on each side, and some permanent pools in river.

Camped at a small pool of fresh water, and rode up to a low ridge to the North-East, from which I got a fine view to the eastward. I do not think the river we are following goes much farther; low ranges and a few hills alone visible. Barometer 28.48; thermometer 70 degrees at 6 o'clock p.m.; lat.i.tude 25 degrees 47 minutes 53 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of Jupiter.

9th.

Continued along river, which is gradually getting smaller, for about thirteen miles over most beautiful gra.s.sy country, the best we have seen.

White gums along bed. I believe the river does not go more than twenty miles from here, it being now very small. Found a nice pool of water and camped. Barometer 28.48; thermometer 68 degrees at half-past five o'clock.

THE DRY SEASON.

10th (Sunday).