Explorations in Australia Part 5

25th (Sunday).

Rested at camp near Mount Singleton, which I found to be in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 24 minutes 33 seconds by meridian alt.i.tude of sun, and longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes east.

26th.

Some delay having occurred in collecting the horses, did not start till 9 a.m., when we steered a little to the north of west towards Damparwar.

For the first seven miles over rough trap hills lightly gra.s.sed, when we entered samphire and saltbush flats for four miles. Crossing a large marsh at a point where it was only 100 yards wide, and continuing through thickets, we camped at a spot with very little feed and no water, in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. From this spot Mount Singleton bore North 113 degrees 20 minutes East magnetic, distant about twenty miles. Here we met two natives, whom we had seen on our outward track at the Warne Corroboree. They were of course friendly, and slept at our camp; they had a great many dulgates and opossums, which they carried in a net bag, made out of the inner bark of the ordnance-tree, which makes a splendid strong cord. They informed us that a native had come from the eastward with intelligence relating to the encounter we had with the large tribe on May 31, adding that we had all been killed, and that all the natives in this vicinity had cried very much on hearing the news.

This is another specimen of the narrations of natives, with whom a tale never loses anything by being carried.

27th.

Steering a little to the north of west for eighteen miles, we reached Damparwar Springs, a clear gra.s.sy spot of about 300 acres, on west side of a low granite hill. The spring was dry, but by digging a few feet obtained abundant supply. From the appearance of the country there has hardly been any rain in this neighbourhood for many months. Took a round of angles from a trap hill about two miles distant, Mount Singleton and many other points being visible. Met a party of friendly natives here. By meridian alt.i.tudes of a Bootes, a Coronae Borealis and a Lyrae (Vega), Damparwar Spring is in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 16 minutes 32 seconds, and longitude about 116 degrees 47 minutes East.

28th.

Steering in a southerly direction, and following along the western margin of a salt lake--most of the way over samphire flats, with thickets intervening, denser than usual--we encamped on a small gra.s.sy spot, with plenty of water in granite rocks, called Murrunggnulgo, situated close to the west side of the lake, which I named Lake Monger. The native Jemmy, in company with some of his friends, stayed behind to-day in order to catch opossums, and did not join us this evening. By meridian alt.i.tudes of E Bootes, a Coronae Borealis, a Lyrae (Vega), and Aquilae (Altair), Murrunggnulgo is in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds.

Damparwar bearing about north magnetic.

29th.

Moving a little to the west of south for twenty miles, through dense thickets, by far the worst we have ever encountered, and dest.i.tute of feed, we reached Bera Bera, a gra.s.sy spot with a dry well, where water might be procured. Continuing North 238 degrees East for about five miles, we reached and camped at some granite rocks, with a fine well of water called Wandanno, which I found to be in south lat.i.tude 29 degrees 57 minutes 14 seconds by meridian alt.i.tudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair). From Bera Bera, Mount Singleton bore North 50 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about fifty miles distant. Jemmy did not put in an appearance to-day, but sent on a native to say he would join us in a day or two.

30th.

Travelling about North 212 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles, over samphire flats, with thickets intervening, we reached a fine gra.s.sy spot, with water in granite rocks, called Gnookadunging. Continuing about south for two and a half miles, pa.s.sed another small gra.s.sy spot called Ginbinning; thence in about the general direction of North 210 degrees East magnetic. For about eleven and a half miles, over an immense sand-plain, running as far as the eye could reach to the North-West and South-East, we camped in the centre of it at a spring called Manginie, a sheep station belonging to Mr. James Church. Towards the end of the day Bailey's horse Tommy fairly gave in, and we had great difficulty in getting him to camp, which Mr. Hamersley and I did not reach until an hour after dark. The night was cloudy, and I was unable to get any observations, but luckily at daybreak obtained meridian alt.i.tudes of Jupiter, which placed Manginie Spring in South lat.i.tude 30 degrees 21 minutes.

31st.

Steering about South-South-West for thirteen miles, we reached Cooroo Springs--a fine gra.s.sy spot in winter--where we camped, the horses being very tired. For the first seven miles over scrubby sand-plains; thence to Cooroo, over gra.s.sy country, with spearwood thickets intervening. Tommy shot a kangaroo this afternoon, which was very acceptable, having had only damper and tea for several days past.

August 1st (Sunday).

Rested at Cooroo Springs. All very busy putting our ragged clothes in as good repair as possible. By meridian alt.i.tudes of sun, Lyrae (Vega), 32 degrees 15 minutes. Read Divine Service. Jemmy has not yet overtaken us, so I conclude he has changed his mind, and does not intend following us.

We are now about nine miles from Clarke's homestead, which bears about South-South-East.

2nd.

Travelling about South-South-East for nine miles over gra.s.sy country, with York gums, etc., we reached the hospitable residence of Mr. Clarke, where we were very kindly received, and stayed a short time to hear the news. Resuming for eighteen miles along the road to Newcastle, we pa.s.sed Mr. Donald Macpherson's, where I obtained some rations, and pushed on six miles farther, and bivouacked one mile south of Badgy-Badgy, with very short feed for our horses.

3rd.

Travelling along the road towards Newcastle for twenty-six miles, we camped one mile past Byen, and about sixteen miles from Newcastle.

4th.

Reached Newcastle at eleven o'clock, and had just time to report the safe return of the expedition before the mail left.

5th.

After handing over all the horses provided by the different settlers to their respective owners, and bidding farewell to Mr. George Monger (who intends proceeding to York), I left Newcastle in company with Mr. M.

Hamersley and Tommy Windich, leaving Morgan and remainder of equipment to follow with the cart which had been brought to Newcastle by Ward and C.

Adams. Reached Baylup at 4 p.m.

6th.

Made an early start; reached Guildford at twelve o'clock, where we rested an hour. Then resuming, reached Perth at 4 p.m., and reported personally the results of the expedition, having been absent 113 days, in which time I travelled by computation over 2000 miles.

I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the main object of the expedition, which was the discovery of the remains of the late Dr.

Leichardt and party.

THE NATIVES' STORIES.

In the first place, Mr. Frederick Roe was informed by the native Weilbarrin, that two white men and their native companions had been killed by the aborigines, thirteen days' journey to the northward, when he was at a spot called Koolan.o.bbing, which is in south lat.i.tude about 30 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude about 119 degrees 14 minutes east. Mr.

Austin lost eleven horses at Poison Rock (nine died, and two were left nearly dead), which is in lat.i.tude 28 degrees 43 minutes 23 seconds south, and longitude about 118 degrees 38 minutes east, or about 130 miles from Koolan.o.bbing, and in the direction pointed to by the natives.

I therefore imagine it to be very probable that the whole story originated from the horses lost by Mr. Austin at Poison Rock, as I am convinced the natives will say anything they imagine will please. Again, the account given us at Mount Churchman, on May 5th, appeared very straightforward and truthful. It was very similar to that related to Mr.

Roe; but, on questioning the natives, they at last stated there were neither men nor guns left, only horses' remains, and pointed towards Poison Rock. Further, the native who gave all the information to Mr.

Monger was one of our party. His tale, as related by Mr. Monger, also appeared very straightforward and truthful, that white men had been killed by the natives twenty years ago; that he had seen the spot, which was at a spring near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea as seen from Rottnest, eleven days' journey from Ningham or Mount Singleton, in a fine country. The white men were rushed upon while making a damper, and clubbed and speared. He had often seen an axe which formed part of the plunder. All this appears feasible and truthful enough in print; but the question is, Of what value did I find it? Upon telling Jemmy what Mr. Monger stated he told him, he said he never told him that he had seen things himself, but that he had heard it from a native who had seen them, thus contradicting the whole he had formerly stated to Mr.

Monger. Moreover, the fine country he described we never saw, what a native calls good country being where he can get a drink of water and a wurrong; and if there is an acre of gra.s.sy land they describe it as a very extensive gra.s.sy country! This I have generally found the case. As a specimen of the untruthfulness of these natives, I may quote that my native Jemmy, who was a first-rate fellow in every other respect, stated to Mr. Monger and myself at York, that there was a large river like that called the Avon at York, to the eastward, knowing at the time he would be found out to be telling a falsehood. He even told Mr. George Monger, before leaving Newcastle, to buy hooks, in order to catch the fish that were in the river, and concluded by stating that we would have great difficulty in crossing it, as it ran a great distance north and south.

Almost every evening I questioned and cross-questioned him respecting this river; still he adhered to what he first stated! It may well be imagined how disappointed we were on reaching the spot to find only a small brook running into a salt marsh, with water in winter, but dry in summer.

With reference to the country travelled over, I am of opinion that it is worthless as a pastoral or agricultural district; and as to minerals I am not sufficiently conversant with the science to offer an opinion, except that I should think it was worth while sending geologists to examine it thoroughly.

CONDUCT OF THE PARTY.

It now becomes my most pleasing duty to record my entire satisfaction with the manner in which all the members of the expedition exerted themselves in the performance of their respective duties. To Mr. George Monger and Mr. Malcolm Hamersley I am indebted for their co-operation and advice on all occasions. I am also deeply indebted to Mr. Hamersley for collecting and preserving all the botanical specimens that came within his reach, as well as the great trouble and care taken with the store department, placed under his immediate charge. To probation prisoner David Morgan my best thanks are due as the shoeing smith, as well as acting cook for the party the whole time. Of Tommy Windich (native) I cannot speak too highly, being very useful in collecting the horses, as well as a first-cla.s.s huntsman, and really invaluable as a water finder.

Accompanying me on many trying occasions, suffering often from want of water, he showed energy and determination deserving of the highest praise. Jemmy Mungaro was also a first-cla.s.s bushman, and invaluable as a water finder. He was in many ways useful, and very obedient. His great failing was that he exaggerated--no tale ever losing anything in his charge. Nevertheless, I have many things to thank him for, and therefore he deserves praise.

In conclusion, sir, allow me to thank you for your kindness and advice, which has greatly supported me in this arduous undertaking. I much regret that an expedition which was so efficiently equipped, and on which I was left so free to act, has not resulted in more direct benefit to the colony, to satisfy many who are not capable of appreciating the importance of such explorations.

I have, Sir, etc.,

JOHN FORREST,

Leader of Expedition.

The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., Surveyor-General.

So far as the mystery on which the fate of Leichardt is involved was concerned, my expedition was barren of results; but the additional knowledge gained of the character of the country between the settled districts of Western Australia and the 123rd meridian of east longitude, well repaid me, and those of the party, for the exertions we had undergone.

REWARDS.

Shortly after my return I received an official communication from Mr.

Barlee, the Colonial Secretary at Perth, announcing that his Excellency the Governor, with a view to mark his sense of the value of my services as leader of the expedition, had sanctioned the payment to me of a gratuity of 50 pounds. Mr. Monger and Mr. Hamersley each received 25 pounds; Morgan, the probation prisoner, who had done good service in the expedition, especially in looking after the horses, was promised a remission of a portion of his sentence. Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro, the natives, had each a single-barrel gun, with his name inscribed--presents which they highly valued.

So ended the first of my expeditions; and a very short time elapsed before I was called upon to undertake a longer, more hazardous, and more important journey.

CHAPTER 3.

SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.

A new Exploration suggested.

Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.

The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.

Survey of Port Eucla.

Official Instructions.

The Start.

Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.

The Schooner at Port Eucla.

Journal of the Expedition.

Immediately on my return to Perth a new expedition was suggested by Dr.