The South of France-East Half Part 15

May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a lofty precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river to the village of Remusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. from Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3 m. farther or 15 m. from Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col of Ribeyret, whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the Bleme, pa.s.sing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112 m. N. from Ma.r.s.eilles and 77 S. from Gren.o.ble (see p. 340).

[Headnote: ORANGE.]

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{444}{93} +ORANGE+, pop. 10,300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the Arausio of the Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to the hotel is the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour of Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and Floras, A.D. 21. It stands E. and W., is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27 deep, and consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft.

and each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented with six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the shape of s.h.i.+elds, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows, etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a combat.

At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre at the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral+ of Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in style the churches of the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of Perpignan is the great type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels between the b.u.t.tresses, and over the arches diminutive clerestory windows. A plain and ugly square tower, in this case, at the east end. Adjoining is the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, with a statue to "Raimbaud II., Comte d'Orange, vainqueur a Antioche et a Jerusalem en MXCIX." In the promenade of the town, the Cours St. Martin, is a statue to the Comte de Gasparin, a writer on agriculture, and a native of Orange; where also he died in 1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand and imposing ruins of one of the most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in a semicircular form, has a facade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The wall is 13 ft. thick, composed of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular wall consists of five stages, and included accommodation for 6500 spectators. The building has recently been repaired and cleared of a quant.i.ty of rubbish.

[Headnote: PRINCE OF ORANGE AND ORANGEMEN.]

In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent counts.h.i.+p, probably under Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just been noticed. On the death of Philibert of Chalons, last of the third line of princes, the inheritance fell to his sister's son Count Rene (Renatus) of Na.s.sau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his successor his cousin William I., stadtholder of the United Netherlands. The t.i.tle "Prince of Orange" was consequently borne by the stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William I., William II., and William III. After the Revolution in Ireland of 1688, the English-Protestant party were designated Orangemen, from the t.i.tle of their leader, William III., Prince of Orange. Louis XIV. seized the princ.i.p.ality of Orange in 1672, but lost it by the peace of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there were two claimants--John William Friso of Na.s.sau-Dietz, designated by William's will, and Frederick I, King of Prussia, who claimed to be nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by the will of Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the princ.i.p.ality a forfeited fief of the French crown, and a.s.signed it to the Prince of Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last prince should have the _dominium utile_; and its finding was confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the t.i.tle and coat of arms to the King of Prussia, who is still styled Prince of Orange (Prinz von Oranien). John William Friso, however, also took the t.i.tle, and his successors the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands have all been designated princes of Orange-Na.s.sau. Vast numbers of silkworms are reared at Orange. Coach daily to Valreas 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison 17 m. N.E. (Map p. 56.)

[Headnote: VAISON. ST. QUENIN.]

+Vaison+, pop. 3400. _Inn:_ H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene, 17 m. N. from Carpentras, 11 m. S. from Nyons, 13 m. W. from Le Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left side of the Ouveze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are connected by a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the left side a more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with its squalid streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, in 1195. It is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a small square tower at one of the angles. A little below is the parish church with round and early pointed arches and square tower at S.E. end. The view from the terrace is beautiful.

The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the town, where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute angle. Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of the Roman theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is St. Quenin, while a little beyond is the cathedral. The amphitheatre, or "les arenes" as they call it, is built on the same plan, and in a similar position, as the theatre of Orange, but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, there exist still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, excepting those on the lowest stage. Now it has become a vineyard and an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow road, is St. Quenin, of which the east end is Roman, and may date from the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to the 10th. The east end, or apsidal termination, is in the form of an equilateral triangle, with an attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex, and also at each of the angles of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578.

Of the +Cathedral+ the best part is also the outside. Under the eaves of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes.

The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed arches of great span, rising from four ma.s.sive piers of cl.u.s.tered pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, also pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th cent.; but the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of blank arches on colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, at the N.E. side, rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a very beautiful cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the cloister of St. Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes in couples 3 ft. high. At the corners is either a ma.s.sive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities Vaison has retained for itself are under this corridor. The most perfect piece of sculpture is a skull. On the top of the hill opposite the castle stands an image of the "Immaculee" on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map p. 56.)

[Headnote: SORGUES.]

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{455}{82} +SORGUES+, pop. 4000, on the Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction with line to Carpentras, 10 m. eastwards. +Carpentras+, pop. 10,500, on an eminence surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_ Universe; Orient, both good, and in the large "Place" opposite, the Hotel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hotel-Dieu are a portrait by Rigaud of the Abbot Rance, and a handsome staircase. In the centre of the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie d'Inguimbert. From this "Place," up the narrow street, the first public building is the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405.

The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side of the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside.

Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a "Salutation" by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her milk to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the cupola, is the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them are the skull and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the right hand of J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a "Coronation" of Mary painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another "Coronation" by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and a crucifix in the "salle des a.s.sises." Within the court, right hand, is a Triumphal arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft.

high (but originally higher), 25 ft. wide, 14 ft deep, and 10 ft.

span. On the N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold relief, a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side stands a prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the cross. From the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is a similar cross, but not in such a good state of preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem of a tree. From the top hangs the dress of a warrior.

[Headnote: CARPENTRAS. MUSEUM.]

The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte d'Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only three sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded the town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From the boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the ca.n.a.l aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from N.W. to S.E., with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 ma.s.sive arches. The ca.n.a.l, which by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends from the Durance to the Ouveze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost 90,000. In the princ.i.p.al Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory of preserved fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the library and museum. The library contains a valuable collection of ma.n.u.scripts, explained in a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and above 4000 vols., for which there is not sufficient accommodation. In the "Musee" are a few good pictures, and Roman statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small Apollo found at Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab, 4th or 3d cent. B.C., 19 in. long by 13 wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow borders. In the princ.i.p.al compartment stands a young woman with uplifted hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on which are sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second compartment, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four customary funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is an Aramaic inscription in four lines, of which the last two are injured. The first French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot Mailly in 1646.

[Headnote: TRUFFLES.]

Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, or white. The last variety, princ.i.p.ally found in the N. of Italy, has the smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of Vaucluse, they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below the ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the common and of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from November to the end of March, after which those which remain become soft and decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind is black, hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In size and shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the largest may weigh lb., although few are of that size. They are sought by means of dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow being the more dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its duty for upwards of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its powerful snout in a masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When just about to seize the truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead two acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue the search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.

[Headnote: ORTOLANS.]

The +ortolans+, which breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in autumn. While on the wing they are allured down to nets laid for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those caught are put into dark rooms, where they are fattened. In about a month's time they become so plump as hardly to be able to fly, when they are killed and sold, excepting a few kept for alluring the others next year. The singing time of these is transferred from spring to August, by pulling out the large feathers of the tail and wings in April, and keeping them in a dark apartment till August.

Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and "berlingots,"

a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is Eysseric.

Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from the Riviera--the hotels are comfortable and the prices moderate--excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.

Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28 m. N., by Vacqueyras 6 m., and Vaison 17 m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E., pa.s.sing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to Buisson 7 m. N. on the Aigues. Coach to Sault 28 m. E.

Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4 m. S.E. Coach daily to L'Ile 10 m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse.

Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28 m. S.E., by Venasque 7 m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.)

[Headnote: BEDOIN. MONT VENTOUX.]

Coach daily to +Bedoin+ 8 m. N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300.

_Inn:_ Hotel de Mont Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274 ft., by a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2 m. from the village and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope.

Time to ascend, from 5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary.

Before commencing the ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of the church and take a general survey of the land. The road extending to the right, under those mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little distance along it, at a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off to the left and ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The mountain offers a splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise from the top, travellers generally start at 11 P.M., and await the appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. Croix, on the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure range, an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in every form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper and fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, "terre de Bedouin," is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, a village 2 m. N.E. At different parts in this neighbourhood are strata of sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of sand. These strata crop up at different parts of the department.

[Map: The Plains between the Ardeche, the Rhone and the Durance]

[Headnote: RESIN BATHS. MALAUCENE.]

Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of +St. Didier+, with a good hydropathic establishment in an old chateau.

Rooms from 1 fr. to 3 frs. Servants' rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, both with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, fr.

First consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study gratis; but in the guests' room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the style of the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is impregnated with resin or is turpentinised (_terebenthine_). It has a beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2 m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (map p. 56).

Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. N.E., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing the N.W.

extremity of the Ventoux chain, pa.s.ses by the village of Le Barroux on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the foot of Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from Buis, is +Malaucene+, 1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Hotel de Cours, in a picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the calvary on an eminence in the town. At about m. from the inn is the spring Groseau, gus.h.i.+ng forth from the base of a lofty calcareous cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent.

The stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may visit the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from Malaucene. The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more picturesque than from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of the mountain are the springs--Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft.; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft.

The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the Ouveze. The most important village pa.s.sed on the way is Mollans, with, in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake.

Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the bronze statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien.

No public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good the length of the railway between Ma.r.s.eilles and Gren.o.ble, pa.s.sing St.

Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11 m. E., Lacombe 13 m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the road descends to the railway by the valley of the Ceans.

[Headnote: LE BUIS.]

+LE BUIS+, pop. 2000; _Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a hollow on the Ouveze surrounded by mountains covered with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Schistose and s.h.i.+ngle strata cover some parts; at others there are calcareous rocks in every form, either in gigantic cliffs or in countless strata of various thickness and at different angles. To go to the statue of St. Trophime and to the top of St. Julien, having crossed the bridge, ascend by the winding road to the valley, right hand, which continue to the next bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right: for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the left, just before reaching the bridge.

[Map: SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.

+1.+ Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of the hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads down to the Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Benezet. Below the promenade is, +2+, formerly an archbishop's palace, now a seminary. Below the Pope's Palace is +B+, the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, with the H. de Ville and theatre. The street +C C+, extending southward to the princ.i.p.al station, is called the R. de la Republique or Rue Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, +3+, the Hotel de Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little farther S.W. is the Rue Calade, with, at +4+, the Musee Calvet, and at +5+, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musee Requien, a museum of natural history. Farther east is, +6+, St. Joseph's College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers, where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of the town, +7+, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, +O+, beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while +8+ indicates the road to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l'Hotel de Ville is, +9+, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far from the station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the Place du Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel Benezet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacre-Cur. 17. Prison.

18. Mont-de-Piete. 19. Court-house. 20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture.

22. Suspension Bridge. 23. Benezet Bridge. A, Place du Palais.

B, Place de l'Hotel de Ville. C, Rue de la Republique. D, Rue Calade. F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie.

J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carreterie. M, Porte du Rhone. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. Lazarus. Q, Porte L'Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de l'Oulle.]

miles from PARIS miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{461}{76} +AVIGNON+, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls, garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the Rhone, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. N.E. from +Nimes+ by the railway pa.s.sing the Pont d'Avignon and Remoulins.

_Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in the centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great market-place. Temple Protestant in the R. Doree, near the Prefecture. Cabstands at station and in the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, 2 frs. per hour. From the station, a beautiful avenue, the Cours de la Republique, leads up to the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, with statue "au brave Crillon," the friend of Henri IV., "Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de l'infanterie francaise," died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the road leading up to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des Domes, and the promenade, *"au Rochers des Doms;" which, with the ramparts, compose the princ.i.p.al sights of Avignon. The concierge of the palace lives just within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite gate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The churches are closed between 12 and 2. The Musees are open to the public on Sundays between 12 and 4.