Itinerary through Corsica Part 3

[Headnote: CALVI.]

{57} CALVI, pop. 2200. _Inns:_ H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Ma.r.s.eilles every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Ba.s.se Ville. The former, although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite, leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive views. The houses, shops and streets of the Ba.s.se Ville are much better and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off.

Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of S. Rest.i.tuta, visited by pilgrims.

Calvi to Ajaccio.

miles from CALVI miles to AJACCIO

{ }{102} Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500--_Inn:_ Seta, 21 miles S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestiere, No. 8, extends 16 miles eastwards to the Col Cap.r.o.nale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa.

Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4 m. long, to the forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3 m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca Melza, 4 m. 2500 ft.

Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.

Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20.

This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 14 m. E.

3 m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the ramification, 4 m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col d'Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3 m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4 m. S.

From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m.

afterwards.

8 m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3 m. farther the entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa.

11 m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt.

Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N. E., with its singularly perforated peak.

13 m. is the Grand Ca.s.sis d'Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the forest of Ometa.

15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Ca.s.sis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Cap.r.o.nale, 4495 ft. A little way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18).

Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and pa.s.sed through the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we arrive at

miles from CALVI miles to AJACCIO

{51}{51} PORTO (_Inn:_ H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio.

Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is s.h.i.+pped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18.

The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, after having pa.s.sed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about 1250 feet, the traveller reaches

[Headnote: LA PIANA.]

miles from CALVI miles to AJACCIO

{58}{44} LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. _Inn:_ H. France. Delightfully situated, with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and 1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the gra.s.s as yellow as the soil where it tries to grow.

[Headnote: CARGeSe.]

{70}{32} CARGeSe, pop. 1100. _Inn:_ H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of 730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de Marboeuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists, when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.

[Headnote: SAGONA.]

{79}{23} SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had.

On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for s.h.i.+pment. Junction with road to Vico 9 miles E. (see p. 23), and also with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Atone, pa.s.sing by the Col Vico, 7 m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12 m.; the Col Sevi, 3612 ft., 13 m.; Cristinacce, 16 m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in the forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic.

{87}{14} CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien, the road having pa.s.sed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches

AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi.

Porto to the Ponte Francardo.

50 miles north-east. Map, p. 20.

This important forest road traverses the region of the highest mountains and of the greatest forests, pa.s.ses through Albertacce, and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo.

Porto to Evisa, 13 m., by an excellent carriage road wending through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path to Chidazzo, and m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The road, after pa.s.sing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop.

1000; _Inn:_ *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pa.s.s of the Niolo.

Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path leads in 2 hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Atone with the Porto.

Rambles and drives into the forest of Atone, from which unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.

Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of Atone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (_Pinus laricio_), whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, by this road, is the Maison forestiere d'Atone, where those provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant headquarters for grand excursions and fis.h.i.+ng and botanical expeditions. 1 m. farther is the house of the road menders (Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had.

The road having made several detours to get round the heads of ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt.

Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1 hours W. from the Col is a still better view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio, whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest commenced in 1863.

After arriving at the Maison forestiere de Sciattarina 10 m. from Evisa, the road pa.s.ses by some of the finest trees, and descends into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba.

Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestiere de Popaja, 3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.

Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli.

From near the bridge a mule path of 1 m. ascends to Casamaccioli, 2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to Corte by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the Tavignano.

[Headnote: ALBERTACCE.--MONTE CINTO.]

Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coa.r.s.e linen and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more or less fatiguing.

When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is pa.s.sed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the beginning of summer on account of the snow.

[Headnote: LAKE NINO.]

To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours.

From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, leads in 6 hours to Corte, through magnificent forests.

Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between the lake and Corte. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western end.