Travels Through North America Part 31

The night of the 8th and 9th of July I pa.s.sed very unpleasantly, owing to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling out of my bed, and it was only towards six o'clock in the morning that I began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we found ourselves in lat.i.tude 48 40', and longitude 19 12'. In the afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude.

Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in longitude 16. The sea ran rather high while we were in the neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us.

On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather.

It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our lat.i.tude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey's chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation.

The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters remained in statu quo. Lat.i.tude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, far into the sea, nor were we deceived in our expectations, for very early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not strong. This served as an a.s.surance, that we had attained the Nymph bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great ma.s.ses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July.

I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them a three-masted s.h.i.+p, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the pa.s.sengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly beating. The sight of land made our pa.s.sengers more cheerful, and towards evening we became more happy than usual.

On the morning of the 13th of July, the wind was uncommonly mild, the weather, however, cleared up, so that we gradually discovered the lofty and mountainous coast of Wales. Among these high mountains, we particularly distinguished that of Snowdon, which towered above the others, until its pinnacle became lost in the clouds; it is about four thousand feet high. We descried the Isle of Anglesea next, and came so near it, that we could perceive distinctly its rough, high and precipitous rocks, arising from the ocean. On the highest of these rocks, stands a watch-house with a signal pole; we showed our number; every vessel that trades with Liverpool, is there furnished with a number, under which it is inscribed in the book of the exchange, and our signal was immediately hoisted over the watch-house. By a chain of telegraphs, the news of our arrival reached Liverpool in a moment, at the distance of sixty miles. Under the high rock of Anglesea, is a smaller, more isolated rock, on which stands a white light-house, which contrasts charmingly with the dark rocks. From the higher rock, a zigzag path, cut in the rock and surrounded with a white wall, leads to a bridge, suspended by ropes, over which you enter this little island. As we approached it towards noon, the wind sprang up, and we enjoyed the majestic spectacle of the waves breaking on the black rocks. Then we made the highlands of Holyhead, doubled them and directed our course to the east. Behind the cape, the beautifully situated town of Holyhead with its harbour burst upon our view. This English harbour is the nearest to the Irish coast; between it and Dublin there is a regular communication by steam-boats. We tacked and stood over to the coast of Wales, and were delighted with the appearance of its fresh green soil; its neat houses and churches. The green hedges with which the fields and meadows are encompa.s.sed, produce a very pleasing sensation; I however observed, that there was a great scarcity of trees. The scenery towards the sea side began likewise to be more lively, as there was a great number of vessels in view. At last the pilot-boat came up, and put a pilot on board. As one approaches England from the European continent, the elegant construction of these one-masted cutter pilot-boats and their quick sailing, excites astonishment; but if one is bound from the United States, and has beheld their elegant s.h.i.+pping, and particularly the New York pilot-boat schooners, there is no reason for surprise, for the English s.h.i.+pping is far inferior to the American.

Toward evening, the ebb was against us; we could no longer run into Liverpool, and were obliged to cast anchor within fifteen miles of the city. We had pa.s.sed the same floating light, which I observed three years ago, in a voyage from Liverpool to Dublin, and we lay near four light-houses, two of which gave a remarkably clear and beautiful light; the light of one of these towers played gracefully on the waves. These towers were a considerable distance from each other, and are so situated, that two must be brought in a line, to find the proper course.

I had observed on the coast of Wales, some white pyramids, which also serve as landmarks. We met to-day several steam-boats, bound to different ports along the Irish coast. Dr. Garret, whose business led him to Ireland, availed himself of this opportunity to proceed to Dublin, and left us while we were still under way. We beheld the departure of this lively fellow-pa.s.senger with much regret, as the loss of his good humour and wit, greatly depressed our spirits. Three custom-house officers soon came on board, who after inspecting the vessel for form sake, and partaking of a hearty collation, instantly freed us from their company. We were boarded by several boats, which offered to take pa.s.sengers ash.o.r.e; but as it was near dusk, and as the most of us were in no hurry, only two of our fellow-pa.s.sengers accepted their proposals. This was the nineteenth day since our departure from Sandy Hook, and we could not be too thankful to Providence for his protection, and our happy and speedy voyage. As it was known in Liverpool, that we were to sail on the 16th ultimo, from New York, our friends anxiously awaited our arrival.

On the 14th of July, between two and three o'clock in the morning every body was already stirring on board of our s.h.i.+p; we hoisted anchor and set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in Lancas.h.i.+re; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the right you behold the coast of Chesters.h.i.+re, and a deep bay which stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince's dock; this required much manuvering, and at last we took in sail. After an hour's labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded with s.h.i.+ps, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf.

I went ash.o.r.e, and took up my lodgings at the King's Arms Hotel, in Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago.

The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to produce my pa.s.sport; it was taken from me, and I received a pa.s.sport ad interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many formalities. In AMERICA, it was quite the contrary: there they never thought of asking me for a pa.s.sport. Ultimately I received permission to have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner possible.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

_Stay in England, and return to Ghent._

Among the gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of Versailles, came to England with credentials signed by WAs.h.i.+NGTON.

The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me.

However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity and in Staffords.h.i.+re. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay.

I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This inst.i.tution is the central prison of Lancasters.h.i.+re, and contains prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this period they amounted to six hundred and fifty.

The prisoners are divided into twenty-one cla.s.ses, thirteen for the men and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into different cla.s.ses, and entirely separated from the grown persons.

For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. On Sunday there is service in the chapel, but for each s.e.x separately, and every morning there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly princ.i.p.ally employed in spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of them were idle.

Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option.

A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs.

After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the inst.i.tution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character.

Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had pa.s.sed, and notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a handsome girl, who opened the door.

We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz.

a large ant-eater, and a quant.i.ty of foreign lizards and snakes; many living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a collection of foreign birds and sh.e.l.ls; garments and weapons of the savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person, born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out a gla.s.s of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop; she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she threads a needle, sews, &c.

On the 16th of July, at eight o'clock in the morning, I departed from Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into the ground, to prevent the pa.s.sage of hors.e.m.e.n and wheelbarrows.

I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look.

Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the famis.h.i.+ng artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these many parks of the n.o.bility, that a great quant.i.ty of land remains uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a matter of the highest importance.

Between Newcastle and Stone we pa.s.sed through a village called Trentham, where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a large castle, situated in an extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square ma.s.ses of stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffords.h.i.+re, the old castle of Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell.

Staffords.h.i.+re is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there are two very respectable establishments of this kind at Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We pa.s.sed several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls.

We crossed at several times to-day two excellent ca.n.a.ls, one belonging to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of Bridgewater. We drove twice under this ca.n.a.l. In Stafford I observed a very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of Staffords.h.i.+re. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we pa.s.sed through pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o'clock in the evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a public advertis.e.m.e.nt, stating the advantages connected with this establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents, opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the inhabitants, and as a playground for children.

In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however, to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in this city. I went to Mr. Thomason's show-room, where every thing, manufactured in Birmingham, is to be seen. Several rooms contain uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities, steel ware, guns, works in papier mache, crystals, &c. The well known Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly, of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions, likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs twenty-five guineas.

Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however, he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret.

Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory; here an immense quant.i.ty of various sword-blades was shown me, and also the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined, to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment, owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and polis.h.i.+ng of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse.

In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished bra.s.s wire. This, first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs, and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel, gradually diminis.h.i.+ng in size, until they attain the size of a common piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room, which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged; it has a larger s.p.a.ce than Mr. Thomason's, but is not so richly and well provided.

In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable tragedy of Jane Sh.o.r.e, after which we had a tolerable pantomime, called the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama, the Woodman's Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden, personified the character of Jane Sh.o.r.e most capitally, and was well supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a trip to the provinces.

On the 18th of July, at eight o'clock in the morning, I left Birmingham in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles.

The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called Caesar's tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton, and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons, the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a particular book. After the earl's death, the castle with its extensive domains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell part.i.tioned it among several of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circ.u.mscribed the greater portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower, containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord Clarendon's agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle from Charles II.

Through this building you enter the grounds belonging to the castle, after pa.s.sing through a file of beggarly children, who offer you a description of the ruins for eighteen pence. Near the old house, called Gateway, there is a sign saying that the chimney-piece may be seen for sixpence. A tidy girl receives this stipend with a smart courtsey, and opens the door leading into an old room; it is one of the two which have been made out of the gateway. The chimney-piece was probably transported from the castle during the sacking of it. It is of alabaster, and bears the inscription, "_Droit et Loyal_," and on each side the initial letters R. L., Robert Leicester; beneath it is Leicester's coat of arms, surrounded by the order of the garter; below is inscribed the year 1571, and the motto, _Vivit post funera virtus_. Over the chimney-piece there is a square frame, containing the initial letters E. R., Elizabeth Regina; in the centre of it are holes, which lead one to believe that weapons were formerly fastened in them.

The garden lies to the right of this building. Close thereto is the dungeon, which stands on rising ground between the castle and the moat, which is now transformed into meadow-ground, and it runs north, west, and south, round the castle to the tilting ground. The bank of the moat was lined by a wall, crowned with several towers, one of which was called the Swan-tower. On the left hand one perceives a large yard, in the rear of which are the out-houses, and behind them lie the fortified walls with several towers. On ascending to the right of the castle, you arrive at the grand court, which is now only encompa.s.sed on three sides by ruins of edifices; of the buildings that were situated on the fourth side, no trace is remaining. The first ruin that you discover on the right is that called Caesar's tower; of this building, which was quadrangular, three sides are still standing; the walls are on an average sixteen feet thick. Here a flight of stairs lead to a door, now built up, which opened to the garden. Here is the only fountain which has as yet been discovered among the ruins. It is, like the whole castle, built of red sandstone, and cut, farther down, out of the hard rock; it is seventy feet deep, but is gradually filling up by the many stones cast into it. The kitchen adjoins Caesar's tower, and must have been a considerably large building, but there are only a few remains of it. The place where the furnaces and large kettles stood is still perceptible.

Adjoining the kitchen is the strong tower, forming the north-west corner; it is here that the Lancaster buildings commence. In this tower, which is also supported by uncommonly strong walls, are several tolerably well preserved winding stairs, by means of which one can ascend the walls to enjoy a fine and delightful prospect. Here are likewise cellars, still in good condition. The corners of this tower lead to small outer-towers provided with port-holes, which must have served for the defence of the place. Left of this building you reach the great hall. You observe in the bas.e.m.e.nt story the servant's hall, vaulted and furnished with central columns, which support the broken arches to the right and left. Over those arches is still to be seen where the flooring of the grand banquet-hall stood. The windows of this hall are very high, in a Gothic style, with columns in their centre. In the recesses of the windows are still several stone benches, and there are also two chimney-pieces to be seen in this hall. A smaller room is connected with it, having likewise a fire-place, which served as a chapel; and there is also a small closet, which the folks here call Queen Elizabeth's dressing-room.

The great hall forms the south-west corner of the castle, and the ruins connected with it, belong to the southern wing. Close to the great hall, there are two ruins, of which but little remains to be seen, the first is called the white hall, the other the presence chamber. The so called privy chamber is next to them, in which a window and fire-place are still distinguishable; they say, that the chimney-piece, now in the gate-house, was taken from this place. Here begins the newest part of the castle, or the Leicester buildings. They consist of a large, quadrangular tower, four stories high, in which the place for the staircase, as well as the different stories, may still be clearly distinguished. And here terminate these uncommonly interesting and picturesque ruins, to the beauties of which the creeping ivy, which has grown very thickly over them, adds considerably. Fortunately, Lord Clarendon has forbidden, that any portion of the ruins should be taken away, for previous to the prohibition of such an abuse, the peasantry were in the habit of carrying away stones from the ruins to build their houses and for repairing their garden-walls.

From Kenilworth I travelled five miles through a lovely country to the town of Warwick, the capital of Warwicks.h.i.+re, to behold the Earl of Warwick's castle, at that place. Two miles from this town, lie the now much visited and fas.h.i.+onable springs of Leamington, where with the exception of the company, nothing remarkable is to be seen. Warwick stands on stony heights, on the banks of the river Avon, contains about nine thousand inhabitants, and though a very ancient city, has a tolerably agreeable appearance. The princ.i.p.al church has an ancient and venerable aspect, as also two gateways, the remains of the old city walls, now standing in the middle of the streets. The court-house is a new edifice, and as the town a.s.sizes were then holding, several splendid equipages were drawn up in front of it.

I immediately afterwards proceeded to the castle close to the city. It is a very old building, the foundation of which, it is said, was laid before the conquest of England by the Normans; the walls and towers still standing, which environ the court-yard of the castle, are said to have been erected at that period. The castle stands upon a rock by the bank of the Avon, and commands a view of a surprisingly romantic country. At the foot of this ancient castle, at the water's edge, are the castle mills, which on account of their venerable appearance, and the waterfall, caused by a dam in the river, greatly enhance the beauty of the scene. Behind the mill are to be seen the ruins of a bridge which led over the river, and is now overgrown with ivy. Quite in the back ground, one discovers the new bridge over which the road from Leamington runs. These groups produce an uncommonly pleasing prospect.

On approaching the castle from the city, you see a gate with a Gothic tower, which serves as a habitation for the gate-keeper. Hence, after inscribing your name in a book, you continue on your way to the castle.

This road leads through the park, and is mostly cut in the rock, the sides of which are very picturesquely overgrown with ivy.

On attaining an open s.p.a.ce, the whole castle stands in view; it is approached over a stone bridge, through a gate furnished with a portcullis, and then you find yourself in a s.p.a.cious court-yard, the castle standing to your left, in front, and to the right the lofty walls that surround the court-yard, studded with towers. Grated gates lead underneath the towers, to the park that surrounds the castle. I entered the castle up a handsome s.p.a.cious staircase, and there I found the neat house-keeper, who for money and good words, shows strangers the interior of the castle.

First you enter the great hall, the walls are lined with carved oak wood, and ornamented with scutcheons and ancient arms, and with three real colossal elk-horns, the largest of which was found in Ireland, and the other two in America. From this hall there is a fine view into a considerable suite of rooms, and from the windows the charming prospect of the Avon, and the before-mentioned mills and bridges.

From the hall you proceed into the ante-room; here I admired two paintings by Van Dyk; one represents a lady as large as life, belonging to the Brooke family, with her son; the other is the portrait of Queen Henrietta Maria, the consort of Charles the first. In the same room is to be seen, the extremely handsome portrait of Queen Johanna of Naples, by Raphael; also the portrait of the Marquis Spinola, armed cap-a-pied, a painting of Rubens; the portrait of count Gondomar, the Spanish amba.s.sador, near the court of James I., a production of Don Diego Velasquez de Silva; and two very charming landscapes, by Poussin, which however, require to be retouched. In the same room there is a table inlaid in Florentine mosaic, two vases of lava, several Etruscan vases and lances, which are to be seen in almost all the rooms, a marble bust of the present Lord Warwick, by Nollekens, and a book-case of tortoise sh.e.l.l inlaid with bra.s.s.

Adjoining this chamber is the cedar drawing-room, so called, because the walls are wainscoted with cedar wood, which, notwithstanding its antiquity, sends forth a charming odour. There is likewise in this room a handsome fire-place, and a marble table, inlaid with lava. Among the paintings are five by Van Dyk, viz. the Countess of Carlisle, Charles I., the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Montrose and the landscape painter, Martin Ryckaerds. Beside these there is a Circe of Guido, a very beautiful piece, and two paintings of less value, one by Romney, representing the celebrated E. W. Montague in a Turkish costume, and the other by Patoun, representing a muse.

Adjoining this hall there is a room, which, owing to the heavy gildings on its walls, is called the gilt-room. Here are two paintings by Rubens, the one of Lord Arundel, the collector of the celebrated antiquities at Oxford, known by the name of the Arundelian marbles, and the other representing St. Ignatius. This piece was painted by Rubens, for the Jesuits College at Antwerp, and was transported hither from that city.

There is also a well painted portrait of Prince Rupert, by an unknown artist, another of the Prince of Orange, by Holbein; the portrait of a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; several of Vandyk's productions, one representing Admiral Russell, and another a Spanish General; by the same master hand, the portraits of Charles I., Lord Northumberland, Queen Henrietta Maria, two portraits of the celebrated Lord Stafford, one of them representing this unfortunate statesman in his earlier, and the other in his latter years, the portrait of Lord Warwick, a full-size portrait of Prince Rupert, and another of the Marquis of Huntley. Those portraits are altogether executed in a masterly manner. The portrait of a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; two small Murillos, one representing a girl with a pen, and the other a child, blowing soap-bubbles; moreover, a portrait of Lord Lindsay of Charles 1st's time, by Cornelius Janssen, and a Tintoretto, representing the Italian sage Davila. It it a pity that several of these pictures hung in the shade, and that in the usually clouded atmosphere of England, they cannot be properly seen.

In this as well as in the ante-room, were several vessels by Majolica, ornamented with handsome paintings copied from drawings of Raphael.

You next proceed to the state bed-room, hung with old tapestry, representing French gardens. The richly ornamented bed is said to have been fitted up by the order of Queen Ann. It contains a bust of the Black Prince in full armour by Wildon, and three paintings, a full-size portrait of the d.u.c.h.ess Margaret of Parma, by t.i.tian, a family portrait by Sir Peter Lely, and a profile of the unhappy Earl of Ess.e.x, done by Zucchero, an Italian painter, whom political causes had driven from his native land to England, where he received protection, patronage, and a friendly reception from Queen Elizabeth.

Next to this room is the small state dressing-room, from the windows of which there is an extensive and fine prospect. It contains a precious collection of paintings; one by Paul Veronese; a very grand sketch by Rubens, of the four evangelists; two old men's heads by the same master; two landscapes by Salvator Rosa; four Vandyk's, consisting of the second Earl of Bedford; tritons and sea-horses; a study; a sketch of St.

Sebastian, and a baccha.n.a.lian scene; two by Gerard Douw, one an excellent portrait of a Mrs. Digby, abbess of a convent, and the other an effect of light, representing an old woman eating; two by Teniers, scenes of witches and the interior of a watch-house, hung with armour; three Holbeins, the first a portrait of Luther, the second the unfortunate Ann Boleyn, and the third her sister Catharine Boleyn, aunt and tutress of Queen Elizabeth, and in the midst of these portraits, that of Henry VIII. in his childhood. There are two pieces by Steenwyck, one representing St. Peter in prison, and the other his liberation therefrom. Portraits of two of Charles the second's mistresses are likewise to be seen here, as also a copy of a portrait of Henry IV.