Self-Instructor in the Art of Hair Work Part 16

[Ill.u.s.tration: SEWING SWITCHES.

No. 1. No. 2.]

The No. 1 of the above cuts represents the winding and sewing of the switch after it is woven. For sewing a switch on points, after weaving, take Berlin cord, about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, and tie a solid knot at the end, and sew the end of the weft to the knotted end of the cord; then wind the weft around the cord, as shown in cut, the length of point desired, turning the end of the cord over to form a loop. Cut the weft according to the number of points desired in the switch. Cut No. 2 shows the switch all complete.

WEAVING HAIR FOR CURLS.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quant.i.ty of hair required for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over No. 2, and under No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For this weft use fine, strong linen thread.

MAKING AND PREPARING CURLS.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 1.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2.]

After weaving, according to directions on page 241, take a piece of ribbon an inch wide, the same color of hair, and as long as you wish the curls to be in width, and sew the weft to it back and forth. After that is done, pipe them, which is done in this manner: Dampen the hair, comb each curl out straight, and wind it tightly on a rattan stick about four inches long, having each curl on a separate stick, and commencing to wind at the tip end, tying them firmly to keep in place. Then boil in water for thirty minutes, and place in an oven as hot as they will bear without burning, until quite dry. When dry and perfectly cool, take them off the sticks, and smooth over a curling iron, the size you wish the curls. Side curls and frizzes should be prepared the same way.

Cut No. 2 represents a set of Curls and Puffs. For explanation of Puffs, see page 245.

WEAVING HAIR FOR WIGS.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quant.i.ty of hair required for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3 around under Nos. 3 and 2, and over No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For this weft use sewing silk.

WEAVING HAIR FOR WATERFALLS AND BOWS

Prepare the same as above, and place the strand under No. 1, over Nos. 2 and 3, around under Nos. 3 and 2, over No. 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, and over Nos. 2 and 1. Aside from these changes, follow directions given above.

MAKING WATERFALLS AND BOWS.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 1.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 3.]

In making a Chignon, you have first to make the cus.h.i.+on. Take the combings or waste hair, which is of no other use, and place it between the cards or stiff brushes, the same as for weaving. Use the weaving apparatus, with two piping cords, instead of three small ones, and wind the hair all up, by pa.s.sing over, between and under the cords. Boil and dry it, and then pull out the cord, which leaves it all crimped, ready to weave, according to directions on page 239. Then sew it on a cord, the same as a switch, and form it in any shape you desire, for a Waterfall, Bow or Puffs. This completes the cus.h.i.+on. Then weave the long hair for the covering, according to directions on page 243, and sew it to the top end of the cus.h.i.+on; comb it out smooth, cover the cus.h.i.+on, and tie a cord around it immediately at the bottom; then bring up the end of the hair, and pin it to the inside. Cut No. 1 is intended to represent the cus.h.i.+on, and No. 2 the complete Waterfall.

Cut No. 3 represents the Bow, which is made in the same manner, by using two small cus.h.i.+ons, like cut No. 1, and placing between them a strand of smooth or braided hair.

MAKING PUFFS AND COILS.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 1.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 3.]

To make Puffs for front of head, from false hair, similar to cut No. 1, weave hair from eight to twelve inches long, according to directions on page 241; then take a ribbon, about one and a half inches wide, any length required, and tack it on a wig block, or straight piece of board, and sew the weft crossways a quarter of an inch apart, till the ribbon is entirely covered; then divide it off in as many puffs as desired, comb each out straight, and wind it over the two fore-fingers, close up to ribbon, and put in a hair-pin to retain it.

To make Puffs for back of head, cut No. 2, prepare the same way; make the foundation the shape and size you wish the puffs, and sew it on the same way you want the puffs to run. The puffs may be made over a cus.h.i.+on, formed of crimped hair the shape wanted, and wound over that instead of the fingers. Ladies not wearing false hair, can have her own hair dressed by following the above directions.

Cut No. 3 represents a coil, which is made from a switch, and wound over a long roll of crimped hair. They are much nicer, but more expensive, by being made altogether from a switch, as that can be twisted into a rope or braided, before coiling.

EXPLANATIONS ON HAIR DRESSING.

I herewith present, on the following pages, a number of engravings ill.u.s.trative of a few of the many styles of Hair Dressing, accompanied with explanatory remarks as to their execution. They are the latest and most fas.h.i.+onable European and American styles, and will prove indispensable to every lady's toilet, as, from the explanations, they will be able, with very little practice, to dress their own hair in any desired style; and when any new style is inaugurated, after studying and practicing the directions given with each ill.u.s.tration, she will find it an easy matter to arrange it accordingly.

Any one learning Hair Dressing, should acquire perfectly the execution of the first pattern--the Promenade Head-Dress--as that is very easily arranged, and when you have once executed it in a perfect manner, the others will prove comparatively easy.

The manner of dressing the hair at the present day calls for much attention, and many inquiries are addressed us on the subject. It is plain, however, that what would correspond with the complexion and physiognomy of one, would certainly have a distasteful appearance on another; consequently, in answering inquiries, I can do nothing more than give the different styles worn. Before giving my ill.u.s.trations on Hair Dressing, I have given instructions how to weave hair for chignons, curls, switches, &c., and how to put them in shape, and with the directions given with each ill.u.s.tration on Hair Dressing, it will certainly be an easy task to arrange the hair in any style that is now or may be in fas.h.i.+on.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PROMENADE HEAD-DRESS.]

Our first cut represents the Promenade Head-Dress, but is worn as frequently in the drawing-room, and even at public and private a.s.semblies--in fact, a common and very pretty style.

EXPLANATION: Comb the front hair between the temples straight back, over a cus.h.i.+on of crimped hair, forming a Chignon; then make two braids of two small switches, and place one of them over the top of the Chignon, and the other across the forehead, forming a diadem, turning the ends under; then comb the hair from temples over the braids, and put back under the Chignon, and fasten. Place a net of pearl or gilt beads over the Chignon, as in cut. You can use false hair for covering cus.h.i.+on, if desired.