Cooking with My Sisters Part 3

1 pound very lean ground beef Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste * If you prefer, you can alter this to include ground veal and/or ground sausage. We always use ground beef.

Brown the ground beef, season with salt and pepper, and drain to practically dry. Set aside.

PASTA.

12 lasagne, either oven-ready noodles or precooked SPRINKLING CHEESE*

10 ounces shredded mozzarella 5 ounces shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano * While mozzarella is the traditional cheese for sprinkling, you can use almost any cheese that shreds and holds its shape. Asiago is a great example.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Coat a large roasting pan or lasagne pan with olive oil, lightly.

a.s.semble the lasagne as follows: Layer of pasta Thin layer of sauce Meat 5 ounces mozzarella Ricotta cheese filling 5 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano Layer of pasta Thin layer of sauce 5 ounces mozzarella Bake for one hour, covered. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Slice into squares and serve.

Grandmom's dining room, the site of many a fabulous meal.

Trigiani Lasagne with Vegetables and Cheese MAKES 9 ENTReE PORTIONS OR 12 SIDE PORTIONS.

SAUCE.

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups crushed tomatoes 12 basil leaves, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Combine the ingredients in a medium saucepan, and simmer until the tomatoes have liquefied, 20 to 30 minutes.

RICOTTA CHEESE FILLING.

15 to 16 ounces ricotta cheese 5 ounces shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano 12 ounces artichoke hearts (if canned, drain) cup olive oil small jar capers, drained (about 4 ounces) Juice of 1 fresh lemon 4 ounces bread crumbs teaspoon salt While sauce is simmering, mix the ingredients for the filling and set aside.

VEGETABLES*

About 24 fresh baby spinach leaves, uncooked 1 broccoli crown, chopped and uncooked * You can use just about anything here; already-cooked zucchini and carrots are good in this recipe, for example.

PASTA.

12 lasagne, either oven-ready noodles or precooked SPRINKLING CHEESE**

10 ounces shredded mozzarella 5 ounces shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano ** While mozzarella is the traditional cheese for sprinkling, you can use almost any cheese that shreds and holds its shape. Asiago is a great example.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Coat a large roasting pan or lasagne pan with olive oil, lightly.

a.s.semble the lasagne as follows: Layer of pasta Thin layer of sauce Vegetables 5 ounces mozzarella Ricotta cheese filling 5 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano Layer of pasta Thin layer of sauce 5 ounces mozzarella Bake for 1 hour, covered. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Slice into squares and serve.

A Tip from Mary: Make the lasagne for evening meetings or luncheons in your home. I have served this on a buffet to my book club, and I generally make both the meat and the vegetable versions. This is also easy to eat on your lap; no knife required. And you don't need bread; just a salad, and you're set.

Another solid dinner dish is Mom's stuffed peppers. These are truly delicious; they also look pretty on a plate and balance well with a salad, potatoes, or rice. And stuffed peppers work well as a course following soup or a large antipasto, before an elaborate dessert.

Mom's Stuffed Peppers SERVES 4 (IF EVERYONE EATS 2).

THE FILLING.

1 pound ground beef, browned 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 cup fine bread crumbs cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 4 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley 3 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped 1 cup fresh tomatoes, precooked (or canned tomatoes) 2 eggs 4 tablespoons olive oil 8 medium peppers, stemmed, cored, and seeded 1 tablespoon olive oil for drizzling over peppers before baking 1 cup Basic Tomato Sauce Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Combine the beef with all the other filling ingredients, then stuff the peppers all the way to the top. It's fine if the peppers bulge a bit.

Stand the peppers on end in a ca.s.serole dish and drizzle the olive oil over them. Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 375 degrees and pour the tomato sauce around them. Continue baking until the peppers brown, about 30 minutes. Bring to the table in the ca.s.serole dish and serve.

A Tip from Pia: Mom sometimes made these with rice in the mixture. It makes the dish a bit heartier.

But the best thing about the stuffed peppers is that telling you about them, and all these other delightful dishes, brings me back to my mom's kitchen.

I remember fall days in Big Stone Gap, when we would run home to be on time for dinner, and there was enough of a nip in the air that the kitchen window was fogged up from whatever Mom was cooking. Over dinner we would tell stories and strengthen our ties to one another. And this was all possible because Mom's kitchen was warm, inviting, creative, and reminiscent of all of the kitchens in the family that came before ours.

CHAPTER FOUR.

Light Suppers Grandma Lucy and Grandmom Trigiani had different approaches to meat and cheese and pasta and sauce, but they shared a dedication to doing things well. Every woman in our family still enjoys the praise that greets us when we enter the dining room with platters of luscious pasta, well-seasoned meats, and colorful side dishes. Whatever we accomplish in our careers or communities, the perfect meatball will most likely be our legacy.

Grandma Lucy took pleasure in precision, Grandmom Trigiani in speed and economy. Mom emphasized an orderly environment, and Dad's priority was dinner on the table the moment he was ready to sit down.

Enter the light supper. On the nights that we all had to go somewhere-a football or basketball game, a concert, or a production of the Big Stone Gap Music Club-or on those evenings when Mom and Dad were going out as a duo, Mom would make something that she could pull together quickly.

In the event that the entire family was going out to a performance of some kind, the light-supper approach worked well for another reason: it wasn't sleep-inducing. Unless you were Dad.

In the seventies, the community leaders of Big Stone Gap signed a contract with a concert organization to sponsor four events per year. You joined the local a.s.sociation and purchased tickets for the events. They usually offered a variety of entertainments, from Broadway to cla.s.sical, performed by traveling troupes of professional artists.

In the ongoing effort to expose us to different cultural happenings, Mom and Dad joined. (Eventually, Mom even helped to coordinate the program.) Community Concert nights were light-supper nights because we had to get there on time. It's important to note here that Dad's work day started at seven a.m. so he was usually up by five. (He never missed a sunrise if he could help it. It was his favorite time of day.) And even though Dad always took a catnap during the afternoon, he usually was pretty tired by dinnertime. Those concerts were a real sacrifice for him on some nights. So much so that it was a struggle for him to stay awake, particularly during the cla.s.sical offerings. But Dad never skipped a performance.

One evening, we took up our usual row of seats in the high school auditorium. A woodwind quartet was in performance that night. Mom went in first, then the seven of us, girls first, then boys, and, finally, Dad on the other end. About a third of the way through the concert, Dad hit full REM sleep, and he began to snore. Michael and Carlo thought it was hysterical, as did most of the men in the audience. We didn't tell Mom for a while, but then the snoring got so loud she could hear it, and she sent word down the line that someone needed to poke Dad. The boys pleaded temporary deafness and the snoring continued until Mom gave one of her looks-translation: Do it or suffer the consequences. From that point on, if Dad started nodding off, someone brought him back to the living.

But Dad loved entertainment of virtually any kind. He began playing the piano when he was three years old. He was a natural musician, jazzy and improvisational. Dad was especially popular with the manager of the piano store in the mall over in Kingsport, Tennessee. (He should have received a commission for the pianos sold due to his demos.) * Mary says: "Dad knew how to read music, but he played the piano without it. I remember standing by the piano bench, barely tall enough to reach the keyboard, and watching Dad play. He was truly happy in those moments, completely absorbed in the rhythm and relaxation of making the music. It's what made me want to learn to play."

* Toni says: "I remember that Dad played almost every night after coming home from work, just before dinner. I loved to listen."

* Checka says: "Dad would play anywhere there was a piano-restaurants, friends' homes, schools, even hospitals!"

We sang in church, and by the early 1970s, the guitar Ma.s.s was all the rage. I was always jealous of the Baptists, who still had enthusiastic choirs. We Catholics were holding hands around the campfire.

* Pia says: "Our arrival in Big Stone Gap happened after Vatican Two, so things were beginning to loosen up. Except at our house. For years we continued to eat fish on Fridays, and all the girls were required to wear something on our heads for Ma.s.s on Sunday. So we used these little chapel veils-circles of lace that looked like doilies. We had four white ones and one black one, and we fought over the black one every Sunday because it was the least conspicuous on our brunette heads. Adri, though, would fold and fold and fold the chapel veil until it was the size of a minuscule piece of pie and attach it to the top of her head with a bobby pin."

We were very proud when Mom would make one of her colorful antipasti for church gatherings, but we loved to have them at home, all to ourselves. Mom had learned to make this dish when she married Dad. The antipasto is the first, or appetizer, course in Italian cuisine. The course begins the meal by introducing a variety of tastes, awakening the palate to what will follow. In Italy, the contents of the antipasto vary from season to season, depending on what is available, and the course is often served buffet-style, with many separate offerings. In Roseto, Pennsylvania, the plated antipasto often includes garden vegetables canned for use throughout the year, and the hostess served the antipasto with drinks while dinner was cooking. Either way, it's easy to do and doesn't involve any cooking. It's perfect if you're hosting guests for c.o.c.ktails before dinner out.

Antipasto SERVES 6 FOR DINNER, 10 FOR APPETIZERS.

Romaine lettuce (usually only 1 head, have another just in case) Two 16-ounce cans white albacore tuna packed in water 9 hard-boiled eggs, sliced in half One 15-ounce jar roasted red peppers Two 4-ounce cans anchovies rolled with capers 8 ounces pitted black olives 8 ounces pitted green olives pound Genoa salami, sliced thin and rolled*

pound prosciutto, sliced very thin and rolled One 12-ounce can artichoke hearts One 7-ounce can mushrooms packed in olive oil pound Cheddar cheese sliced in 2-inch strips**

pound Monterey Jack cheese sliced in 2-inch strips**

12 ounces pepperoncini peppers Fresh Italian parsley, for garnish Olive oil, for drizzling * Other meats we've used: cotto salami, capicola, soppressata.

** You can go for more authentic Italian cheeses; we use the "American" varieties for color.

The key to this recipe is to make the platter attractive and artistic. Line a 12-inch platter (we like a round shape) with the larger lettuce leaves, which will serve as the base of the antipasto as well as a way to measure a portion. (Ideally, a person should be able to pull a whole lettuce leaf off the finished antipasto with a little of everything on top.) In the center of the platter place the tuna; it's best to use a canned variety so that you can turn the can upside down and remove the tuna intact, retaining the shape of the can. Add the roasted red peppers and place them around the platter in a symmetrical pattern, like the rays of the sun. Continue in the same pattern with the remaining ingredients until the tray is covered and all ingredients have been used. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

A Tip from Mary: Fresh ingredients are wonderful for this dish, and you can make this ultra-fancy by preparing your own tuna, roasting fresh bell peppers, buying imported olives, and using only Italian cheeses. But if you go to an Italian specialty store and buy products prepared in Italy, you'll make a fine antipasto. And when it comes to the tuna, don't drain it too excessively; you want a little of the flavor that comes from the oil.

Christmas in the sixties. From left: Toni, Adri, Pia, and Mary. Baby brother Michael is in front.

Another of Mom's light dishes was her version of pasta fazool ("when the stars make you drool just like pasta fazool"), known as pasta e f.a.gioli in Italian.

Pasta e f.a.gioli SERVES 8.

3 cups cooked cannellini (white kidney) beans 10 cups water Salt to taste 1 cup olive oil 1 onion, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley 4 cups cooked pasta (broken pieces of large noodles or a small noodle such as orecchiette) cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Romano Freshly ground black pepper to taste In a large saucepan, combine the beans, water, salt, oil, onion, and parsley. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the beans are tender. Add the pasta and allow to simmer another 10 minutes.

Toss the beans and pasta together in a large bowl with the cheese. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve in bowls and sprinkle with cheese.

A Tip from Checka: My kids like good old canned baked beans in tomato sauce mixed with elbow macaroni. It's not authentic, but it's still pasta and beans!

One of our favorites is a humble chicken and rice soup. The best one was made by Mary Falcone, Grandpop's cousin. ZiZi Mary, as we called her, always had a snack for us when we went to visit. We've recreated the chicken and rice soup recipe here, but we can't guarantee that it will ever be the same as when that wonderful lady welcomed us into her home. There was something about her and the snow globe in her parlor and the picture of her son, Tommy (which always made her cry because he was lost in the Pacific during the Second World War), that made her house so comfortable and warm. As our family got bigger, ZiZi Mary was one of the people who could make you feel like you were the only kid in the world. Her home was a bit of a refuge, and her soup its everlasting symbol.

ZiZi Mary's Chicken and Rice Soup SERVES 8.

1 plump 4- to 5-pound chicken, cut into pieces Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 6 quarts cold water 4 cups cooked rice; if using Arborio, follow the directions for risotto cup chopped Italian parsley Place the chicken, salt, and pepper in a large pot containing the water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 2 hours. The broth is done when the meat is falling off the bone. Remove the meat and bones, reserving the meat for another dish. If you are serving this as a lunch entree, you can leave some meat in the broth.

Add the rice and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes on very low heat. Add the parsley just before serving.

We used to visit our grandmothers during the summer break. As teenagers, we called Grandmom Trigiani's house "Camp Viola," since outdoor groundskeeping and indoor bleaching were on the duty chart. Our visits tested not just her patience with children but her ability to stretch a dollar to infinitesimal lengths. Her minestrone made good use of leftovers. And it's great any time of the year. Try to make the beef broth one day ahead.

Grandmom Trigiani's Minestrone SERVES 12 TO 16.

1 medium onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 large carrot, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 cups Beef Broth (recipe follows) 3 cups water 3 basil leaves, chopped teaspoon freshly ground black pepper One 28-ounce can tomatoes, crushed, or 1 pint home-canned tomatoes One 19-ounce can white pinto beans, rinsed and drained 1 cup peas 1 cup small pasta, uncooked (equivalent of about 3 servings) cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated In a large saucepan, saute onion, garlic, and carrot in the olive oil until the garlic and onion are soft. Add the broth, water, basil, and pepper. Bring to a boil. Add the tomatoes, beans, peas, and pasta. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 2 hours.

Serve with the cheese on the side.

A Tip from Adri: We like to sprinkle crushed red pepper flakes in the soup to give it a kick.

Beef Broth 2 pounds beef (brisket or shank) 1 shank bone 6 quarts water Salt and freshly ground black pepper Combine the ingredients in a large stockpot, bringing the water to a boil. At that point, skim the top and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook for 2 to 3 hours, adding salt and pepper to taste. Then strain the broth, saving the meat either for the soup or for another purpose. Refrigerate the broth. The next day, skim the congealed fat from the top.

One summer, I decided I wanted a little more cash than what Viola would dole out for us to put in the Sunday-morning collection plate, so that's when I took a job at the Mount Bethel Inn. I'd often get home late, and Grandmom would whip up a delicious quick meal. What I came to call Venetian Eggs was my favorite.

Grandmom's Venetian Eggs SERVES 4.

DRESSING FOR GREENS.

1 cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 cups Basic Tomato Sauce 4 eggs 4 cups fresh arugula 4 cups baby spinach In a small bowl, whisk the ingredients for the dressing until well combined.

Ladle the tomato sauce into a large skillet. Heat over medium and when the sauce begins to bubble at the edges of the pan, make a well in the sauce with a spoon. Crack an egg into the well. Follow suit with the rest of the eggs.

Toss the arugula and spinach in a large bowl with the dressing. Place the greens on plates. When the eggs are cooked to your preference (soft, medium, or well done), use a spatula to place an egg and some sauce over the greens, tossing lightly.

The Roseto-style tomato pie (focaccia) is a great stand-alone dish, or you can serve it with soup or eggs. This pizza, with a thin but chewy crust and sweetened tomato sauce that soaks into the top and is dusted lightly with finely grated cheese, is terrific with a salad and nothing else.

Pizze MAKES ONE 12-INCH RECTANGULAR PIZZA; SERVES 8 TO 12 DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF THE PIECES.

BASIC PIZZA DOUGH.

1 tablespoon active dry yeast cup warm water Pinch of sugar 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt In a small mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water with the sugar. Set aside for 5 minutes.

On a large, flat surface, pour the flour into a mound, shaping a large well in the center. Pour the yeast mixture, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and the salt into the well. Then slowly work the flour into the center, using your fingers. Begin forming the mixture into a ball, kneading it until the dough can stretch. This takes between 10 and 15 minutes. Keep a little warm water close by, using a little at a time in case you need it to work the dough. The dough should always be soft but not wet.

Place the ball of dough into a large mixing bowl that you've coated lightly with olive oil. Turn the ball over until it's covered with the oil. Then cover the bowl with a clean dish towel. Put the dough in a warm place, away from any drafts, to rise. In about an hour and a half, it should be double its original size. At that point, it's ready to bake.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Remove the dough from the bowl and knead it again for 5 minutes. Roll out the dough to about half the size of a 12-to 14-inch pizza pan. Lightly coat the pan with olive oil, then place the dough in the pan and spread it evenly to the edges. Your goal should be to have the pizza no more than inch thick.

Design your pizza, then bake it for about 30 minutes. When the crust is brown, remove it from the oven and serve it immediately.

TOMATO PIES A LA ROSETO (FOCACCIA).

1 small onion, very finely chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil One 15-ounce can tomatoes, drained and crushed 1 teaspoon sugar 5 fresh basil leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 sheet of prepared Basic Pizza Dough cup grated Romano cheese In a medium skillet, saute the onion in the olive oil until it is very soft. In a large saucepan, combine the onion with the tomatoes, sugar, basil, salt, and pepper. Cook over low heat until the sauce is very thick, 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Using a ladle, spoon the sauce over the pizza dough. Spread it evenly. Sprinkle with the cheese.

Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the edges are brown.

A Tip from Checka: To make a pizza quickly, use a prepared crust or a dough mix. Usually, the local pizza joint is happy to oblige.

Light suppers, light hearts, loose pants, I like to say. Here's to limitless variations!

CHAPTER FIVE.