Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 14

In Italy, milk-fed veal is one of the most popular meats. Before we moved to California from New York, my husband was offered an attractive position in a renowned Midwestern hospital.We took a trip there to explore his future job and the lifestyle.The state was very beautiful and the position offered to my husband was prestigious. Unfortunately, it was almost impossible to find Italian ingredients in the area. Milk-fed veal was rarely available. My husband turned down the job. We were ready to change our lifestyle, but not to the point of changing our eating habits so drastically. Today, it is easier to find Italian ingredients and milk-fed veal there.

Veal can be sauteed, braised, fried, stewed, roasted or poached. A popular example of a braised dish is Veal Shanks Milan Style.Veal shanks are a relatively inexpensive cut of meat.When cooked by slow braising, the meat becomes tender enough to cut with a fork. If you intend to stew veal, use a less expensive cut.This usually comes from the shoulder. An excellent veal roast can be obtained from boned breast of veal.This is one of the less-expensive cuts.The veal can be stuffed and rolled, then pan roasted.The result is a juicy, tender roast.Veal can be poached to produce one of the best and most famous northern Italian dishes, Vitello Tonnato Vitello Tonnato, Cold Veal with Tuna Sauce.

There are probably several reasons why beef is not a favorite with Italians. Whether these reasons stem from an innate preference or are the result of centuries of economic and social conditions, the fact remains.Yet, strangely enough, Italy produces some of the best beef in the world. A prize-winning beef admired by cattle raisers the world over, is the Chianina beef of Tuscany.The best charcoal-broiled steak of Italy is found in Florence and is made from Chianina beef.

Aside from the celebrated Florentine Steak, beef in Italy is used mostly in pot roasts or stews cooked slowly with wine, herbs and vegetables.

When selecting beef, look for a rich color with marbling of fat. Marbling is important for a cut of meat that will be broiled or roasted.This cut of beef is generally more expensive but will be tender and juicy when cooked. A less-expensive cut of meat with less marbling is best for braising or stewing.The slow, moist cooking will produce tender and flavorful dishes.

When serving meat that will follow a pasta dish, try to balance and complement the two. If a rich, substantial first course like lasagne is served, the meat that follows should be extremely light and simple. Roast veal or pork, or veal scaloppine would be suitable. Even the vegetables should be served with a minimum of sauce.When a simple first course like Risotto with Parmesan cheese is served, the meat that follows can have a variety of sauces. Choose Braised Beef in Barolo Wine or Eggplants and Cutlets Parmigiana.

I hope one point will be clear from this chapter and throughout the book. A grasp of the underlying mood of Northern Italian cuisine is more important than a technically perfect execution of a recipe.

VEAL CHOPS MILAN STYLE.

Costolette di Vitello Alla Milanese Who said it takes forever to cook good Italian food? This dish proves otherwise.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 6 veal loin chops, 6 veal loin chops, inch thick inch thick cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt to taste Salt to taste cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter Lemon slices Lemon slices

Pound veal chops lightly. Combine bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread on aluminum foil. Beat eggs with salt in a medium bowl. Dip chops in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumb mixture. Press mixture onto chops with the palms of your hands. Let coated chops stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add chops. Cook until chops have a golden-brown crust, 5 to 10 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels. Place chops on a warm platter. Garnish with lemon slices. Serve immediately.

VEAL SCALOPPINE WITH MARSALA WINE.

Scaloppine di Vitello al Marsala Veal scaloppine should be cooked and served immediately. Reheating will toughen and dry the meat.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 pounds veal scaloppine 2 pounds veal scaloppine cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup dry Marsala wine or sherry

Place scaloppine between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound until thin. When pounding meat do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened. Place scaloppine on aluminum foil. Coat meat lightly with flour. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add veal. Cook about 1 minute on each side.Veal should be light golden outside and pink inside. Remove veal from skillet.

Add remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter and Marsala or sherry. Deglaze skillet by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of skillet.When wine is reduced by half, return veal to skillet. Mix gently with sauce. Place meat on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over meat. Serve immediately.

VEAL SCALOPPINE IN LEMON SAUCE.

Scaloppine di Vitello all'Agro This dish should be made at the last moment and brought to the table quickly.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 to 2 pounds veal scaloppine 1 to 2 pounds veal scaloppine cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lemon 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 tablespoons capers 2 tablespoons capers

Place scaloppine between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound until thin. When pounding meat do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened. Place scaloppine on aluminum foil. Coat meat lightly with flour. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add veal. Cook about 1 minute on each side.Veal should be light golden outside and pink inside. Place veal on a warm platter.

Add 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter and lemon juice to skillet. Deglaze skillet by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of skillet. Stir in parsley, garlic and capers.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over veal. Serve immediately.

WINTER-STYLE VEAL STEW.

Bocconcini di Vitello all'Invernale This marvelous stew tastes even better if prepared one or two days ahead.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 pounds shoulder of veal 2 pounds shoulder of veal cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1 (16-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 (16-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 (10-ounce) pkg. frozen small peas, thawed 1 (10-ounce) pkg. frozen small peas, thawed

Cut veal into 1- to 2-inch cubes. Place on aluminum foil and sprinkle with flour. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add veal and brown on all sides. Add onion, carrot and celery. Saute until lightly browned. Stir in wine and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.

Cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. Simmer 40 to 45 minutes or until meat is tender and sauce has a medium-thick consistency. If sauce is too thin, increase heat and cook uncovered about 10 minutes. Add peas and cook 5 minutes longer. Serve hot.

VEAL SHANKS MILAN STYLE.

Ossobuco alla Milanese The perfect accompaniment for this dish is Risotto Milan Style, page 98.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 6 veal shanks, 2 inches thick 6 veal shanks, 2 inches thick cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour cup olive oil cup olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes 2 tablespoons chopped parsley plus additional for garnis.h.i.+ng 2 tablespoons chopped parsley plus additional for garnis.h.i.+ng 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Place veal shanks on aluminum foil and sprinkle with flour. Heat oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat. Add veal to ca.s.serole. Brown on all sides. Remove veal from ca.s.serole.

Add onion, carrot and celery. Saute until lightly browned. Return veal to ca.s.serole. Stir in wine and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add tomatoes. Cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. Simmer 1 hours or until meat falls away from the bone. Add 2 tablespoons parsley and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange veal and sauce on a warm platter. Garnish with additional parsley. Serve immediately.

Variation Brown veal in b.u.t.ter. Subst.i.tute 1 cups Meat Broth, page 22, for the tomatoes.

VEAL SHANKS TRIESTE STYLE.

Ossobuco alla Triestina When properly cooked, the meat should be tender enough to cut with a fork.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 1 cup Chicken Broth, page 23, or canned chicken broth 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 large onions, thinly sliced 3 large onions, thinly sliced 6 veal shanks, 2 inches thick 6 veal shanks, 2 inches thick 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 flat anchovy fillets, mashed 3 flat anchovy fillets, mashed Grated zest of 2 lemons Grated zest of 2 lemons

Prepare Chicken Broth. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add onions. Saute over medium heat until pale yellow. Remove onions from ca.s.serole.

Place veal shanks on aluminum foil and sprinkle with flour. Add veal to ca.s.serole. Brown on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Return onions to ca.s.serole. Add wine and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add chicken broth.

Cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. Simmer 1 hours or until meat falls away from the bone. Stir in parsley, garlic, anchovies and lemon zest. If sauce is too thin, remove veal and boil sauce uncovered about 10 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add a little more chicken broth. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Arrange meat and sauce on a warm platter. Serve immediately.

ROAST BREAST OF VEAL WITH VEGETABLES.

Petto di Vitello al Forno con Verdure Breast of veal is surprisingly economical and very tasty.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 (3- to 3-pound) boneless breast of veal roast 1 (3- to 3-pound) boneless breast of veal roast 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 potato, peeled, finely chopped 1 potato, peeled, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves 2 garlic cloves 2 dried bay leaves 2 dried bay leaves teaspoon whole black peppercorns teaspoon whole black peppercorns pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon sugar Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 chicken bouillon cube, crushed 1 chicken bouillon cube, crushed Water, if needed Water, if needed

Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add veal. Brown on all sides. Add onion, carrot, celery, potato, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns and pancetta. Saute until vegetables and pancetta are lightly browned. Stir in wine. Add sugar and season with salt and pepper. Cook until wine is reduced by half. Add bouillon cube and tomato pulp. Bring to a boil.

Cover ca.s.serole and place in oven. Cook 1 to 2 hours or until veal is tender; baste veal frequently. If sauce looks too dry, add a little water. Place veal on a cutting board. Put sauce into a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Slice veal and arrange on a large warm platter. Spoon sauce over veal. Serve immediately.

COLD VEAL IN TUNA SAUCE.

Vitello Tonnato A cla.s.sic, sensational dish, that is great as an appetizer or main course.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 (3-pound) boneless veal roast, from top round or shoulder, firmly tied 1 (3-pound) boneless veal roast, from top round or shoulder, firmly tied 1 carrot, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 onion, sliced 1 onion, sliced 2 cups dry white wine 2 cups dry white wine Tuna Sauce 1 (7-ounce) can tuna fish in olive oil 1 (7-ounce) can tuna fish in olive oil 4 flat anchovy fillets 4 flat anchovy fillets 3 tablespoons capers 3 tablespoons capers Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lemon cup olive oil cup olive oil 1 to 1 cups Mayonnaise, page 204 1 to 1 cups Mayonnaise, page 204 Lemon slices 2 to 3 tablespoons capers 2 to 3 tablespoons capers 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Trim fat from veal. Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full with water. Bring water to a boil. Add veal, carrot, celery, onion and wine. Cover pan and reduce heat. Simmer 2 to 2 hours or until veal is tender.

Place veal and broth in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate 3 to 4 hours.

Prepare Tuna Sauce: Put tuna, anchovies, capers, lemon juice and oil in a blender or food processor. Process to a fine paste. If sauce is too thick, add a few tablespoons of the veal broth. Combine tuna mixture and mayonnaise in a small bowl; mix well. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Cut cold veal into thin slices. Smear bottom of a large platter with Tuna Sauce. Arrange veal slices, slightly overlapping, on top of sauce. Cover veal with remaining sauce. Cover platter and refrigerate overnight.When ready to serve, garnish with lemon slices, capers and parsley.

STUFFED VEAL ROAST.

Arrosto di Vitello Farcito Prosciutto complements the flavor of veal perfectly.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 3-pound) boneless veal roast, from shoulder, top round or breast 1 (2- to 3-pound) boneless veal roast, from shoulder, top round or breast 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste pound prosciutto, page 4, sliced pound prosciutto, page 4, sliced 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 chicken bouillon cube

Ask your butcher to open the veal roast and flatten it out. It should look like a large cutlet. Combine garlic and rosemary in a small bowl. Rub mixture on inner side of veal. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.Top with prosciutto slices. Roll up veal tightly. Secure rolled meat with string.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add veal. Brown on all sides. Add wine. Deglaze ca.s.serole by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of ca.s.serole. Cook until wine is reduced by half; reduce heat.

Crumble bouillon cube into wine. Partially cover ca.s.serole. Cook veal 2 to 2 hours or until tender; baste and turn meat several times during cooking. If sauce looks too dry, add a little more wine or water. Place veal on a cutting board and cool 5 minutes. Keep sauce warm. Slice veal and arrange on a warm platter. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over meat. Serve immediately.

CUTLETS IN TOMATO AND PEA SAUCE.

Cotolette in Umido con i Pisellini A great dish for a cold night, dunk Italian bread or Polenta, page 86, in the sauce.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 to 3 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 2 to 3 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 6 veal cutlets 6 veal cutlets 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 (10-ounce) pkg. frozen peas, thawed 1 (10-ounce) pkg. frozen peas, thawed

Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce. Place cutlets between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound until thin. When pounding meat do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened.

Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Combine bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread on aluminum foil. Dip cutlets in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumb mixture. Press mixture onto cutlets with the palms of your hands. Let coated cutlets stand 10 to 15 minutes.