Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 20

Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, break eggs into skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until firm. Place 2 eggs on top of each asparagus bundle. Serve immediately.

TOMATO SAUCE BOLOGNA STYLE.

Salsa di Pomodoro alla Maniera di Bologna In summer, when tomatoes are at their best, make a large quant.i.ty of this excellent sauce and freeze it.

MAKES 4 CUPS MAKES 4 CUPS 3 pounds ripe plum tomatoes or overripe regular tomatoes 3 pounds ripe plum tomatoes or overripe regular tomatoes cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped cup loosely packed fresh basil cup loosely packed fresh basil cup loosely packed parsley cup loosely packed parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cut tomatoes into large pieces. Heat oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add tomatoes, carrots, celery, onion, basil and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium. Cook uncovered 30 to 40 minutes or until sauce reaches a medium-thick consistency. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Press everything through a food mill and back into saucepan. Cook 20 to 30 minutes longer.

MAYONNAISE.

Maionese One of the secrets of homemade mayonnaise is to have all ingredients and utensils at room temperature.

MAKES 1 CUPS MAKES 1 CUPS 2 egg yolks, preferably pasteurized (see Note below) 2 egg yolks, preferably pasteurized (see Note below) Salt to taste Salt to taste 1 cups olive oil 1 cups olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Place egg yolks in a round-bottom bowl. Add salt. Beat until yolks are pale yellow. Very slowly beat in a few drops of oil. Do not add oil too quickly or mayonnaise will curdle. Add remaining oil very slowly, beating constantly. Beat in lemon juice.Taste and adjust for seasoning. Refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.

Variations Stir in 2 tablespoons Pesto Sauce, page 205, or 2 tablespoons Green Sauce, page 206, for green mayonnaise to serve with fish. Sauces must be at room temperature before adding to mayonnaise.

Note.

Anyone with a compromised immune system, including children, the elderly or anyone with a serious illness, should not eat raw eggs because of the possibility of salmonella poisoning. If you want to make a recipe that calls for uncooked eggs, look for the pasteurized eggs that are available in some markets.

BASIC WHITE SAUCE.

Salsa Balsamella Whether French or Italian in origin, this sauce is vital to many Italian dishes.

Bring milk almost to a boil; set aside. Melt b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan. When b.u.t.ter foams, stir in flour. Let mixture bubble gently over low heat 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Do not let mixture brown.Whisk in milk all at once.Whisk until smooth. Season with salt. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly until sauce has a medium-thick consistency. Reduce or increase cooking time for a thinner or thicker sauce. If not using immediately, rub surface of sauce with tablespoon softened b.u.t.ter to prevent a skin from forming.

PESTO SAUCE.

Pesto If you plan to freeze the sauce, add the cheese after the sauce has thawed.

MAKES 1 CUP MAKES 1 CUP 3 cups loosely packed fresh basil 3 cups loosely packed fresh basil cup olive oil cup olive oil cup pine nuts cup pine nuts 3 garlic cloves, peeled 3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon salt cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons Romano pecorino cheese or Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons Romano pecorino cheese or Parmesan cheese

Put basil, oil, pine nuts, garlic and salt into a blender or food processor. Process until smooth. Pour sauce into a small bowl. Add Parmesan cheese and Romano pecorino cheese or extra Parmesan cheese. Mix to blend.Taste and adjust for seasoning.

GREEN SAUCE.

Salsa Verde This sauce is the perfect accompaniment for Mixed Boiled Meats, Page 161.

MAKES CUP MAKES CUP 1 slice white bread 1 slice white bread 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 cups loosely packed parsley 2 cups loosely packed parsley 2 garlic cloves, peeled 2 garlic cloves, peeled 4 flat anchovy fillets 4 flat anchovy fillets 1 tablespoon capers 1 tablespoon capers cup olive oil cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Remove crust from bread. Tear bread into pieces and place in a small bowl. Pour vinegar over bread; let stand 10 minutes. Put into a blender or food processor. Add parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers and oil. Process until smooth. Place sauce in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate. Serve at room temperature.

Variation Subst.i.tute lemon juice for the vinegar and serve with fish.

BOLOGNESE MEAT SAUCE.

Ragu alla Bolognese The recipe for this cla.s.sic sauce has been in my family for generations.

MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped 1 pounds ground veal 1 pounds ground veal Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes cup milk cup milk Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion, carrot, celery and pancetta. Saute until lightly browned. Add veal. Cook, stirring, until meat is no longer pink. Season with salt and pepper. Increase heat to high and stir in wine. Cook until wine has evaporated.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Stir tomato pulp into veal mixture. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer 1 to 1 hours or until sauce reaches a medium-thick consistency; stir occasionally during cooking. Add milk and cook 5 minutes longer, stirring occasionally.

SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE.

Salsa Agrodolce A cla.s.sic Bolognese sauce, this dates back to the sixteenth century.

MAKES CUP MAKES CUP 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons tomato paste cup water cup water 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil cup chopped parsley cup chopped parsley 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Mix tomato paste and water in a small bowl. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a small saucepan over low heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add parsley and garlic. Saute until garlic begins to color. Stir in flour and sugar. Stir in vinegar and diluted tomato paste; mix until blended. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

PLAIN TOMATO SAUCE.

Salsa di Pomodoro Semplice Many recipes in this book will need some of this sauce.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 (28-oz.) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes 1 (28-oz.) can crushed Italian-style tomatoes Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Add tomato pulp to saucepan. Simmer uncovered 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Desserts

here is no doubt most Italians would rather miss dessert than a first course. After all, at the end of an Italian meal you don't have room for a rich dessert. Fresh fruit, on the other hand, will refresh the palate and end the meal on a pleasant, light note.

For centuries, Italy has produced some of the best desserts in Europe. Anyone who has walked through Italian cities and looked at pastry shops will agree. Rich and elaborate desserts are generally store-bought and served on special occasions. On Sundays, many families go to pastry shops to buy paste miste paste miste, a.s.sorted pastries to complete the Sunday meal.

Italy also has an incredible number of less complicated desserts called dolci casalinghi dolci casalinghi, family cakes. These are usually items like jam or fruit tarts or fruit cakes. They are simple to make and do not involve difficult techniques. Most keep well for several days and are not overly sweet. When an unexpected guest arrives, a slice of moist apple cake or crisp walnut pie is served with the ritual cup of espresso coffee.

Many families have their own version of a particular cake.The recipe is handed down from generation to generation and the cake is considered a showpiece. Generally this cake is prepared for a family celebration or a religious holiday.

Because elaborate desserts do not play an important role in Italian home cooking, most desserts in this chapter are easy to make. A few require a little more skill and patience.

In 1960, I arrived in the United States as the young bride of an American doctor. I was suddenly faced with desserts served at the end of almost every meal. In spite of the rich Bolognese cuisine, I never had had a weight problem. So I enthusiastically explored these new, rich and creamy desserts. Of all the desserts, my favorite was American apple pie. I had apple pie every day, sometimes twice a day, sometimes with ice cream on top. And slowly I began to grow-sideways. I finally realized that all my clothes were too small and decided to weigh myself. I was 20 pounds overweight. Apple pie did what pasta couldn't.

It is important to know what kind of dessert to serve on specific occasions. For a formal, elegant dinner choose an impressive dessert. In doing so, keep in mind the dinner that precedes it. Decide on a dessert that will complement it.

You should also keep in mind the season. In spring and summer, lighter desserts are preferable, such as Strawberry Mousse or Maria Angela's Meringue Cake. Fall and winter allow you to indulge in richer desserts like Italian Rum Cake or Chocolate Mousse. For an informal get-together you will never go wrong with Sweet Pasta Fritters. Pile them on an attractive plate so adults and children can serve themselves.

Let's not forget fresh fruit. It should always be present in an Italian dinner. In winter, slice oranges and serve them with a liqueur sauce-or poach some ripe pears in red wine. In summer, choose the best strawberries, raspberries, peaches and apricots. Arrange them beautifully on a large platter and you will have an eye-catching instant dessert.

APPLE FRITTERS.

Frittelle di Mele Most countries have an apple fritter dessert. This is the Northern Italian version.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 4 large apples 4 large apples cup plus cup plus cup sugar cup sugar 5 tablespoons rum or other liquor 5 tablespoons rum or other liquor 2 eggs, separated, at room temperature 2 eggs, separated, at room temperature cup milk cup milk 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour Pinch of salt Pinch of salt Oil for frying Oil for frying cup sugar cup sugar

Core and peel apples and cut into rounds. Combine apples, 3 cup sugar and rum or other liquor in a large bowl. Cover bowl and let apples marinate 2 to 3 hours.

Beat egg yolks in a medium bowl. Beat in milk. Gradually sift in flour, mixing constantly. Beat egg whites and salt in a small bowl until stiff. Fold beaten whites into batter.

Pour oil 2 inches deep in a large saucepan or deep-fryer. Heat oil to 375F (190C) or until a 1-inch cube of bread turns golden brown almost immediately. Dip apple rounds into batter. Using a slotted spoon, lower a few rounds at a time into hot oil. Turn fritters. When golden on both sides, remove from oil with slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels.

Arrange drained fritters on a platter. Sprinkle with cup sugar. Serve hot.

RICE FRITTERS.

Frittelle di Riso You will eat these fritters as fast as you can make them.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 cups milk 2 cups milk cup arborio rice, page 5, or other short-grain rice cup arborio rice, page 5, or other short-grain rice 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cup granulated sugar cup granulated sugar Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 lemon 3 eggs, separated, at room temperature 3 eggs, separated, at room temperature 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons rum 3 tablespoons rum Pinch of salt Pinch of salt Oil for frying Oil for frying Powdered sugar Powdered sugar

Bring milk to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add rice and cook uncovered over medium heat 10 minutes. Stir in b.u.t.ter, granulated sugar and lemon zest. Cook 15 to 20 minutes longer, stirring mixture several times.When rice is done, all milk should be absorbed.

Place rice mixture in a bowl to cool until it is just warm.When rice is warm, add egg yolks, flour and rum; mix well. Beat egg whites and salt in a medium bowl until stiff. Fold beaten whites into rice mixture.

Pour oil 2 inches deep in a large saucepan or deep-fryer. Heat oil to 375F (190C) or until a 1-inch cube of bread turns golden brown almost immediately. Drop batter a few tablespoonfuls at a time into hot oil.Turn fritters.When golden on both sides, remove from oil with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels.

Arrange drained fritters on a platter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve hot.

CHEESE FRITTERS.

Frittelle di Ricotta Watch these Cheese Fritters puff up into little golden b.a.l.l.s.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS MAKES 8 SERVINGS 4 eggs 4 eggs cup granulated sugar cup granulated sugar Few drops of vanilla extract Few drops of vanilla extract 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 pound ricotta cheese 1 pound ricotta cheese 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup all-purpose flour Oil for frying Oil for frying Powdered sugar Powdered sugar

In a large bowl, beat eggs until fluffy. Add granulated sugar, vanilla and baking powder; mix well. Mix in ricotta cheese. Fold in flour a little at a time. Cover bowl and let batter stand at room temperature 1 hour.

Pour oil 2 inches deep in a large saucepan or deep-fryer. Heat oil to 375F (190C) or until a 1-inch cube of bread turns golden brown almost immediately. Drop batter a few tablespoonfuls at a time into hot oil.Turn fritters.When golden on both sides, remove from oil with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels.

Arrange drained fritters on a platter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve hot.