Italy; with sketches of Spain and Portugal Part 19

VOL. II.

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,

Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.

1835.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

PORTUGAL.

LETTER I.

Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble. Page 5

LETTER II.

Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.--Piety and gin.--Rapid progress of Methodism.--Freaks of fortune.--Pernicious extravagance.--Minerals.--Mr. Beauchamp's mansion.--Beautiful lake.--The wind still contrary. 8

LETTER III.

A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected dreams. 12

LETTER IV.

A bl.u.s.tering night.--Tedium of the language of the compa.s.s.--Another excursion to Trefusis. 16

LETTER V.

Regrets produced by contrasts. 19

LETTER VI.

Still no prospect of embarkation.--Pen-dennis Castle.--Luxuriant vegetation.--A serene day.--Antic.i.p.ations of the voyage. 21

LETTER VII.

Portugal.--Excursion to Pagliavam.--The villa.--Dismal labyrinths in the Dutch style.--Roses.--Anglo-Portuguese Master of the Horse.--Interior of the Palace.--Furniture in petticoats.--Force of education.--Royalty without power.--Return from the Palace. 23

LETTER VIII.

Glare of the climate in Portugal.--Apish luxury.--Botanic Gardens.--Acafatas.--Description of the Gardens and Terraces. 29

LETTER IX.

Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.--Pathetic Music.--Valley of Alcantara.--Enormous Aqueduct.--Visit to the Marialva Palace.--Its much revered Masters.--Collection of rarities.--The Viceroy of Algarve.--Polyglottery.--A night-scene.--Modinhas.--Extraordinary Procession.--Blessings of Patriarchal Government. 34

LETTER X.

Festival of the Corpo de Deos.--Striking decoration of the streets.--The Patriarchal Cathedral.--Coming forth of the Sacrament in awful state.--Gorgeous procession.--Bewildering confusion of sounds. 47

LETTER XI.

Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S----.--His Brazilian wife.--Magnificent Repast.--A tragic damsel. 51

LETTER XII.

Pa.s.s the day at Belem.--Visit the neighbouring Monastery.--Habitation of King Emanuel.--A gold Custodium of exquisite workmans.h.i.+p.--The Church.--Bonfires on the edge of the Tagus.--Fire-works.--Images of the Holy One of Lisbon. 55

LETTER XIII.

The New Church of St. Anthony.--Sprightly Music.--Enthusiastic Sermon.--The good Prior of Avia.--Visit to the Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.--Spectres of the Order.--Striking effigy of the Saviour.--A young and melancholy Carthusian.--The Cemetery. 59

LETTER XIV.

Curious succession of visiters.--A Seraphic Doctor.--Monsenhor Aguilar.--Mob of old hags, children, and ragam.u.f.fins.--Visit to the Theatre in the Rua d'os Condes.--The Archbishop Confessor.--Brazilian Modinhas.--Bewitching nature of that music.--Nocturnal processions.--Enthusiasm of the young Conde de Villanova.--No accounting for fancies. 68

LETTER XV.

Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.--Night-sounds of the city.--Public gala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.--Visit to the Anjeja Palace.--The heir of the family.--Marvellous narrations of a young priest.--Convent of Savoyard nuns.--Father Theodore's chickens.--Sequestered group of beauties.--Singing of the Scarlati. 77

LETTER XVI.

Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.--Negro Beldames.--Quinta of Marvilla.--Moonlight view of Lisbon.--Illuminated windows of the Palace.--The old Marquis of Penalva.--Padre Duarte, a famous Jesuit.--Conversation between him and a conceited Physician.--Their ludicrous blunders.--Toad-eaters.--Sonatas.--Portuguese minuets. 88

LETTER XVII.

Dog-howlings.--Visit to the Convent of San Jose di Ribamar.--Breakfast at the Marquis of Penalvas.--Magnificent and hospitable reception.--Whispering in the shade of mysterious chambers.--The Bishop of Algarve.--Evening scene in the garden of Marvilla. 96

LETTER XVIII.

Excursion to Cintra.--Villa of Ramalhao.--The Garden.--Collares.--Pavilion designed by Pillement.--A convulsive gallop.--Cold weather in July. 104

LETTER XIX.

Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.--Palace of Cintra.--Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.--Parterre on the summit of a lofty terrace.--Place of confinement of Alphonso the Sixth.--The Chapel.--Barbaric profusion of Gold.--Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when he received a supernatural warning.--Rooms in preparation for the Queen and the Infantas.--Return to Ramalhao. 110

LETTER XX.