The Art of Cookery Part 3

_Olios, or a Spanish Dish._

THE articles that are wanted consist of the following: viz.

Leg of mutton of ten pounds.

Leg of veal ditto.

Chuck beef ditto.

Lean ham six pounds.

Best end of a neck of mutton.

Breast of veal, small.

Two pieces of bouillie beef of one pound each.

Two pair of pigs feet and ears.

A bologna sausage.

A fowl.

A pheasant.

Two partridges.

Two ruffs and rees.

Two quails.

Two teal.

Two pigeons.

Two rabbits.

One hare.

Two stags tongues.

One quart of burgonza peas.

Turnips.

Carrots.

Celery.

Onions.

Leeks.

Parsley.

Thyme.

Garlick.

Allspice.

Cloves.

Mace.

Nutmegs.

Black pepper.

Haricot roots.

Fried bread.

Eggs.

Saffron, and Lemons.

_The Olio to be made as follows:_

TAKE the beef, veal, mutton, and ham; cut them into pieces, put them into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean; then add carrots, celery, turnips, onions, leeks, garlick, parsley, and thyme, tied in a bunch; allspice, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, mace, and a little ginger, put in a cloth. Boil all together till it becomes a strong stock, and strain it. Then cut the breast of veal into tendrons, and best end of neck of mutton into steaks, and half fry them; pigs feet and ears cleaned; hare cut into joints and daubed with bacon; bouillie beef tied round with packthread; poultry trussed very neat, with the legs drawn in close; the tongues scalded and cleaned; and the rabbits cut into pieces. When the different articles are ready, blanch and wash them, then braise each in a separate stewpan, with the stock that was strained. When the different things are braised enough, pour the liquors from them into a pan, leaving a little with each to preserve from burning. When they are to be served up, skim the liquor very clean, and clear it with whites of eggs; then cut turnips and carrots into haricots, some b.u.t.ton onions peeled, and heads of celery trimmed neat; after which blanch them, cut the bologna sausage into slices, boil the burgonza peas till three parts done, then mix all together, add some of the cleared liquor, and stew them gently till done. The remainder of the liquor to be coloured with a little saffron, and served up in a tureen with a few burgonza peas in it.

When the olio is to be served up, take a very large deep dish, make several part.i.tions in it with slips of fried bread dipped in whites of eggs, and set it in a slow oven or before a fire; then lay the tendrons, birds, beef, mutton, fowls, &c. alternately in the part.i.tions, and serve up with the haricot roots, &c. over.

N. B. The whole of the liquor to be seasoned to the palate with cayenne pepper and lemon juice.

[This receipt for a Spanish olio is only written to shew how expensive a dish may be made, and which I saw done. As a subst.i.tute I have introduced the following english one, which has been generally approved; and I think, with particular attention, it will exceed the former in flavour.]

_Hodge Podge, or English Olio._

TAKE four beef tails cut into joints, bouille beef two pieces about a quarter of a pound each, and two pieces of pickle pork of the same weight. Put them into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean, and add half a savoy, two ounces of champignons, some turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, one bay leaf, whole black pepper, a few allspice, and a small quant.i.ty of mace. When the meats are nearly done, add two quarts of strong veal stock, and when tender take them out, put them into a deep dish, and preserve them hot till they are to be served up; then strain the liquor, skim it free from fat, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, a little salt, and lemon juice, and add a small quant.i.ty of colour; then have ready turnips and carrots cut into haricots, some celery heads trimmed three inches long, and some whole onions peeled. Let them be sweated down, till three parts tender, in separate stewpans, and strain the essences of them to the above liquor; clear it with whites of eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth, mix the vegetables, add the liquor to them, boil them gently for ten minutes, and serve them over the meats.

_Light Forcemeat for Pies or Fowls, &c._

CUT in pieces lean veal, ham, and fat bacon; add chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, a little beaten spices, juice of lemon, pepper and salt, a few cleaned mushrooms, or mushroom powder. Put over a slow fire till three parts done; then pound in a marble mortar till very fine, and add a sufficient quant.i.ty of yolk of raw eggs and breadcrumbs to bind it.

_Forcemeat b.a.l.l.s for Ragouts, &c._

CUT lean veal and beef suet into small pieces, and add chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram, savory, eschallots, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, a little grated nutmeg, and yolk of raw eggs. Pound all well together, and roll into b.a.l.l.s.

N. B. The b.a.l.l.s should be boiled or fried before they are added to any thing.

_Egg for b.a.l.l.s._

BOIL six eggs, take the yolks, pound them, and add a little flour and salt, and the yolks of two raw eggs. Mix all well together, and roll into b.a.l.l.s. They must be boiled before added to any made dish or soup.

_Omlets of Eggs for garnis.h.i.+ng or cutting in Slips._

TAKE eggs, break them, and put the yolks and whites into separate pans; beat them up with a little salt, and then put them again into separate earthen vessels rubbed with sweet oil. Have ready a pot of boiling water over a fire, put them in close covered, and let the omlets steam till thoroughly done.

_Ox Cheek._

BONE and wash clean the cheek; then tie it up like a rump of beef, put it in a braising pan with some good stock (or water); when it boils, skim it, add two bay leaves, a little garlick, some onions, champignons, celery, carrots, half a small cabbage, turnips, a bundle of sweet herbs, whole black pepper, a little allspice and mace. Let the cheek stew till near done, then cut off the strings, put the cheek in a clean stewpan, strain the liquor through a sieve, skim off the fat very clean, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt, add a little colour, clear it with eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth to the cheek, and stew it till tender.

_Beef Tails._

CUT the tails into joints, and blanch and wash them; then braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with haricot sauce over.

_Haricot Sauce._

TAKE clean turnips and carrots, and scoop or cut them into shapes, some celery heads cut about two inches long, b.u.t.ton onions peeled, some dry or green morells, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces. Let them all be blanched in separate stewpans till three parts done; then drain and put them all together with some small mushrooms stewed, and a good cullis well-seasoned, and simmer the vegetables till done.

_Beef Collops._