The Inhabitants of the Philippines Part 28

The cook rendered no account of the money he received; but, if I was not satisfied with the meals he provided, I admonished him, and if he did not do better I discharged him. I may say, however, that there was very seldom cause for complaint, for the Chinese are thorough business men.

When a dinner-party was given, the cook provided according to order, and sent in his bill for the extras. There was no housekeeping, and no need to order anything, and you knew exactly how much you were spending weekly, and how much a dinner-party cost.

The cleaning and polis.h.i.+ng your plate and gla.s.s, the laying the table, the tasteful adorning of it with variegated leaves, with ferns or flowers, and the artistic folding of the serviettes, may with confidence be left to the mayordomo's care; every detail will be attended to down to the ylang-ylang flowers in the finger-bowls.

With such servants as these, the mistress of the house, free from domestic cares, may take her shower-bath, and, clad in Kabaya and Sarong, await the moment when she must resume the garments of civilisation, and receive her guests looking as fresh, in spite of the thermometer, as if she had stepped out of a coupe in Piccadilly or Fifth Avenue. Ladies used to the ministry of Irish Biddy or Aunt Chloe ought to fancy themselves transported to heaven when they find themselves at the head of a household in Manila.

I append a note of household expenses for a family living moderately in Manila in 1892. I suppose the cost has been doubled under American rule.

Household Budget in 1892.

For a family of three adults and three children.

Mexican Dollars.

House-rent per month 100 Servants' wages and food per month 80 Was.h.i.+ng per month 12 Forage and grain for two ponies per month 16 Allowance to cook for market per month 60 Extra for two dinner-parties of six or eight guests each 20 Bill at Almacen (grocery store) for groceries, ordinary wines, spirits, and petroleum per month 65 Bill at Botica (drug store) for soda water, ice and various articles per month 20 Case of champagne for dinner-parties per month 25 Repairs to carriage, shoeing horses, materials for cleaning stable, etc. per month 10 Garden expenses--plants, tools, hose per month 5 Subscriptions to clubs, telephone, newspapers, and charities per month 20 Tobacco and cigars per month 7 Taxes on servants and horses per month 10 Clothing for self and family per month 50 Pocket money, entertainments, and sundries per month 100 ----- Per month 600

Say $7,200 per annum.

Diet.

For the benefit of Boston readers (if I should be lucky enough to have any in that learned city), I may say that pork and beans is not a suitable diet for a tropical country. I should also forbid the "New England dinner," and roast goose, or sucking pig, stewed terrapin, and pumpkin pie. A light diet of eggs or the excellent fish to be had in Manila, chickens fattened on maize, beef or mutton, once a day, and rice, vegetables and salad, with plenty of ripe fruit, according to the season, is desirable. The fare can be diversified by oysters, prawns, crabs, wild duck, snipe, and quail, all of which are cheap and very good in the season. There are no pheasants in Luzon, but the jungle c.o.c.k (labuyao) is as good or better.

In the tropics a good table is a necessity, for the appet.i.te needs tempting. Such a diet as I have mentioned will keep you in health, especially if you are careful not to eat too much, but to eat of the best. If you economise on your table you will have to spend the money at the drug-store. Taboo pork, because--well, when you have been a week or two in the country you will not need to ask why--Moses and Mahomet knew what they were about.

My remarks about drinks are intended for the men, as ladies do not need any advice on this subject. In a tropical climate it is necessary to be very careful in the use of spirits.

Having lived for more than twenty-five years in the tropics, and having kept my health remarkably well, I feel warranted in giving my experience. I have made surveys, or directed works, in many climates, exposed to all weathers, and I know that the very worst thing a man can take, if he has to work or march in the sun, is spirits. There is nothing that will predispose him to sunstroke as much as spirits. For marching, walking, or shooting, in the sun, I know nothing like cold tea without milk or sugar. It should be poured off the leaves after infusing for two minutes.

When you reach shelter you can take a lemon squash or a cagelada--this is the juice of cageles (a kind of orange) with sugar and water--which is a most cooling drink. Never take spirits to buck you up to your work. Whatever spirits you drink, let it be after sunset. I am a believer in drinking wine at meals; it makes me shudder to see people drinking tea, lemonade, or milk, with their dinners, and laying up for themselves torments from dyspepsia, for which they have to swallow pills by the boxful.

Ponies.

There is a race of ponies in the islands that is descended from Spanish and Arab horses, and owing to an absolutely haphazard breeding, the size has diminished, although the symmetry has been preserved. Those from Ilocos are the smallest, but they are the hardiest and most spirited.

A pair of ponies and a Victoria is an absolute necessity for a lady in Manila, and I have little doubt that an American judge would declare the "failure to provide" to be cruelty and grant a divorce if applied for.

Both harness and carriages are made in the city, but imported harness can be had, better finished, at double the price.

In my time a fine pair of ponies could be bought for $200 to $300; a new Victoria for $500, and harness for $60. The cost of keeping a pair of ponies was $16 per month, and a coachman $12 per month, food, and livery. What the cost is now I have no information.

The public carriages were not fit for a lady to use, though sometimes a suitable one could be hired by the week or month from a livery stable.

The ponies are wonderfully strong and sure-footed. I weigh over 200 lbs., yet some of these ponies have carried me about all day over rough ground without stumbling. They carry a lady beautifully, and riding is the best form of exercise a lady can take.

The Garden.

The garden will be a great source of occupation to the mistress of the house. If it is sheltered from the wind and supplied with water, she can grow almost anything. And plants will come up quickly, too, under the influence of the heat and moisture.

There are nursery gardens at Pasay, where all sorts of plants and seedlings can be obtained; in fact, these are hawked about morning and evening.

The so-called gardener rarely has much skill, but he will clean up the garden and water it, and do what he is told.

The most beautiful and delicate ferns can be grown, and magnificent orchids got to flower, if they are well sheltered in a mat-shed. Bananas and pines grow without trouble, and radishes, salads, tomatoes, cuc.u.mbers, and melons, can be raised.

Shops.

You can get most things you want in Manila. The drug-stores are mostly in German hands, but there is one English one where the usual English articles can be got.

There is an ample supply of wines, spirits, and preserved provisions at the grocers, and the drapers keep on hand any quant.i.ty of silks, muslins, and piece-goods, with all the necessary fixings. French and German shoes are in plenty.

The goods in the jewellers' shops and in the fancy bazaars are all of a very florid style, to suit the gaudy taste of the wealthy Filipinos.

Such piece-goods and haberdashery as are in common use are brought round to the ladies at their own houses by Chinese hawkers, who, having small expenses, sell remarkably cheap.

They are always very civil and attentive, and will gladly get you any article that they have not in stock at the moment.

Ladies save going about in the heat and dust by purchasing from these men.

Amus.e.m.e.nts.

The amus.e.m.e.nts for ladies were limited to riding, lawn-tennis, boating, picnics, and frequent dances. I remember many delightful dances in Manila. One was given to the officers of the U.S.S. Brooklyn, and another to the U.S.S. Richmond. At the latter, the ladies were in traje del pais, i.e., dressed as natives and mestizas. And very handsome some of them looked. Now and again some theatrical company would come over, mostly from Saigon. There were a good many dinner parties given amongst the British community, and weekly receptions at most of the princ.i.p.al houses, during the time I lived in Manila, where you could get a little game of cards, dance, flirt, or take it easy, just as you liked.

The ladies very wisely took a rest from two to four, to be fresh for the evening. The proper hour for calling was at 9 P.M. or 10 A.M. on Sundays after High Ma.s.s.

I knew several ladies, English and American, who look back upon a term of years spent in Manila as the happiest in their lives.

Children born in Manila can remain there without damage to their health till ten or twelve years old, and after having spent a few years at home are indistinguishable from children born and brought up in England.

The princ.i.p.al thing lacking in Manila is means of access to the hills where people could go occasionally for a change and during the hot season. I have little doubt that the Americans will provide this before long.

Manila was not without its frivolous element; but there was one period of the year when all frivolities were suspended, and religious observances monopolised the people's time. That was in Lent, and the ceremonies culminated on Good Friday.

The Very n.o.ble and always Loyal City of Manila celebrates the greatest day of the Christian year very devoutly. On foot, and robed in black, its inhabitants high and low throng the churches and attend the procession.

All shops are closed, vehicular traffic is suspended, the ensigns hang at half-mast, the yards of s.h.i.+ps are crossed in saltire; not a sound is heard.