Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900 Part 6

I was too tired to write last night, though the opera was over fairly early. It was a beautiful sight, the house brilliantly lighted and crowded, nothing but uniforms, orders, and jewels. There was one dark box, which of course attracted much attention; the Americans--all the men in black, except the three naval officers--(we were acclames all along the route, and I must say Leroy and Hubert looked very well in their tricornes and powdered wigs). I wore the creme embroidered velvet with blue satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my head, but he again a.s.sured me I must have a "coiffure de circonstance."

The square before the Opera was brilliantly lighted (they certainly light most beautifully in Russia--thousands of candles everywhere), a red carpet down, and quant.i.ties of palms and flowers--always also quant.i.ties of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the Court to appear--about a quarter of an hour--and were much taken up looking at everything, and everybody, and trying to recognize our friends. A large box at one end of the house, opposite the stage, was reserved for the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold.

Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived, always with their brilliant cortege of Princes. One of the most striking uniforms was the Prince of Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most effective background for the women--the orchestra playing the Russian Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the house applauding, and all eyes fixed on the Royal box.

It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked pleased. They gave the first act of Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell the whole house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left their box there was a general movement among the people, and some of our colleagues had come to pay us a visit when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de la Cour) appeared and said, "Sa Majeste" hoped we would come and have tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing us the way; so he gave me his arm and took me to the foyer, which was very well arranged with flowers, plants, and red carpets.

There were several round tables. He took me to the Empress' table, where were the Queen of Greece, Grand d.u.c.h.esses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady Thornton, and Madame Jaures; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a brother of the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so young, in white, with a broad red ribbon, and splendid diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming, asked me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor didn't sit down--he walked about between the tables, and talked to everybody.

We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the tea-table, and then went back to the theatre. The ballet was long, but interesting, all the mazurkas of the Empire were danced in costume. We got our carriages easily enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger members of the Mission who didn't go for tea with the Empress found the entr'acte long.

Sat.u.r.day, June 2d.

I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until dinner-time, thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I went to the ball on Thursday night given by the "n.o.blesse de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the ball of the German Emba.s.sy last night, but I couldn't do that either. I felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for my dress, as W.

particularly wanted me to go, but the minute I stood up and tried to dress I was half fainting, so there was no use persisting.

The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours of standing have made it impossible to put on my Paris shoes, and I have been obliged to buy white satin _boats_ at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the same state. The Empress even can't wear her usual shoes, and all the women have left off coquettish little shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these rather primitive chaussures.

W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said it was very handsome--everything, silver, supper, servants, etc., had been sent from Berlin. Madame Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg--one of the German Emperor's Maitres des Ceremonies--had also arrived to decide about the questions of precedence, place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course the Amba.s.sadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at 2 o'clock, very late for this country, where everything begins early.

Richard and Pontecoulant are getting great friends. Pontecoulant blagues[5] him all the time--says he is getting a perfect courtier, and that his electors in the Seine Inferieure would be scandalized if they could see him. I must dress now for the "Fete Populaire," and will write more when I get back.

[5] Teases.

9 o'clock.

I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with Nigra, so I have remained in my dressing-room, as I have still a "fond de fatigue." The Fete Populaire was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out was interesting, on account of the people, a steady stream of peasants of all ages going the same way. We went at once to the Loge Imperiale, a large pavilion erected at the entrance facing the great plain. The s.p.a.ce was so enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The booths and towers looked like little spots, and they were very far off. The Emperor and Empress never left the Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had told us he would.

Of course all the same people were a.s.sembled in the Loge--Diplomatists, Court officials, officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on.

There were many white dresses--all Russian women wear white a great deal at any age. The Princess Kotchoubey--78 years old--who put the Imperial mantle on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had done the same thing for the late Empress, was dressed entirely in white, bonnet, mantle, everything.

The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon as they did. There was some little delay getting our carriages, but on the whole the thing was well managed. Already some people were coming away looking very smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will bring you one of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre of the Emperor and Empress, and the date.

Sunday, June 3d.

I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have nothing to do.

This afternoon W., Pontecoulant, and I went for a little turn. We got out of the carriage at the Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet look at everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, the afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings, and bringing out the colours of everything.

This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was between Schweinitz and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of them talked a great deal. After dinner I talked some time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many people, Russians particularly, couldn't understand why he didn't wear his uniform--"ce n'est pas tres poli pour nous." They can't conceive that the representative of a great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and gold like all the rest of the Emba.s.sies.

The table was again covered with pink roses. They just last through the dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as they are taken out of the vases.

Some of them looked so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I could send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the moment we left the dining-room Lhermite took them off the table, but they fell to pieces in his hands, covering the floor with their petals.

Monday, June 4th.

This morning we have been photographed in the court-yard--the whole establishment, gala carriages, servants, horses, moujiks, maids, cooks, etc. First there was the "cla.s.sic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It was very long getting the poses all right so as to show everybody in an advantageous light; and as it is (judging from the cliche) Francois de Corcelle looks as if he was throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, and it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids and the stable-men were to be well placed. They stood as still as rocks. We waited a little to see the gala carriages and horses taken, but that was too long. The horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. Now someone has gone to get a drum--they think the sudden noise may make them all look in the same direction for a moment.

W. and I have been out for a turn--to the Kremlin of course, which is really the most interesting part of Moscow. There is always the same crowd hurrying and jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses, but the outside is unique; such an agglomeration of domes, steeples, bell-towers; all absolutely different in shape and colour--perfectly barbarous, but very striking.

W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual representation, seeing always the same people, and saying and hearing the same things, is beginning to tire him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the Court and the people--no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate cla.s.s, and yet they exist, people in finance and commercial affairs. They certainly have had no part in the show--I should think there must be great discontent. The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have travelled, been educated in England, have handsome houses, English horses, etc., but apparently they don't exist--at least we have never seen any.

I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace Ball. My Dear, my dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's green velvet coat over pink tulle). Of course we chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming; but as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. I consulted Pontecoulant, who came in just as the maids were bringing it in. He said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." Let us hope that the light of thousands of wax candles may have a subduing effect.

_To G. K. S._

#Amba.s.sade de France, Moscow#, #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, June 5, 1883.

The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had some misgivings as to my dress until we got to the Palace, as the gentlemen of the Emba.s.sy had evidently found me _very green_ when we a.s.sembled in the great hall before starting; however as soon as we arrived in the big room of the Palace where we were all marshalled, Countess Linden (an American born) said to me at once "Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses look on the _dark blue_ velvet," so I knew it was all right. I wore that dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would be most effective--pink tulle skirts--with a green velvet habit (chosen of course by candle-light) so that it did look very green by daylight, and a wreath of pink roses round the decollete. I remember both Henrietta and Pauline were a little doubtful--but it certainly made more effect than any dress I wore except the blue manteau de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always go in by a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which is a pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they told us was splendid with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced gentlemen to-night. We waited some time, an hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the Corps Diplomatique were a.s.sembled there it was pleasant enough, and we all compared our experiences and our fatigue, for everybody was dead tired--the men more than the women.

The rooms are magnificent--very high, and entirely lighted by wax candles--thousands; one of the chamberlains told me how many, but I would scarcely dare to say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony and always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign Princes. The Emperor and Empress looked very smiling, and not at all tired. She was in white, with splendid diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. Andre.

He always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises began, this time three only, which the Emperor danced with the ladies of the family. I danced the first with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming and amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I think if the Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy one. I danced the second with the Grand Duke Alexis, and looked on at the third. It was not nearly so fine a sight as the Court ball at the old palace. _There_ the mixture of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes and ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made such an effect, being all etaled one was obliged to keep a certain distance, and that gave a stately air to the whole thing which was wanting last night when all the women were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so that the cortege was rather crowded and one saw merely a ma.s.s of jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they merely walked around the ballroom, not going through all the rooms as we did at the old palace.

When the polonaises were over there were one or two waltzes. The Empress made several turns, but with the Princes only, and we stood and looked on.

While we were waiting there until someone should come and get us for some new function I heard a sort of scuffle behind me and a woman's impatient voice saying in English "I can't bear it another moment," and a sound of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned round and saw Mdme. A---- (a secretary's wife, also an American) apparently struggling with something, and very flushed and excited. I said, "What is the matter?" "I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can never put them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again--I can't stand them another minute." "But you have to walk in a cortege to supper with the Imperial party." "I don't care at all, I shall walk in my stockings," then came another little kick, and the slipper disappeared, rolling underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite sympathized with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I think I should not have had the strength of mind to discard them entirely. When I was dressing, Adelaide tried to persuade me that I had better put on the pink satin slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at least taught me not to start with anything that was at all tight.

While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke Michel came over and asked me if I wouldn't come and stand a little with the Grand d.u.c.h.esses.

He took me to a little group where were the Grand d.u.c.h.esses Michel and Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so gay and natural).

They at once asked me who had made my dress, and what color it was. They had been talking about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand d.u.c.h.ess Constantine had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were--blocks of stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have been very handsome, has still a beautiful figure, and holds herself splendidly.

We talked music a little--she said I ought to hear some of the people's songs. I should like to very much, but there doesn't seem any place where one can hear the national songs. The men of the Emba.s.sy went one night to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything, and did hear some of the peasants singing their national airs, but they didn't seem to think I could go. While we were still talking there was a move, and they said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom and very strictly kept) was going to have tea. All the Court and suite followed, and I was rather wondering how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the honour of conducting me to Her Majesty's tea--so we started off across several rooms and corridors, which were crowded, and arrived at a door where the two gigantic negroes were standing. He said something--the doors flew open--he made me a low bow and retired (as he couldn't come any farther), and I found myself standing alone in a large room with four or five tables--everyone seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande Maitresse, who was standing in the middle of the room, came forward at once and took me to the d.u.c.h.esse d'Edimbourg's table, where there were also the Arch-d.u.c.h.ess Charles Louis, the d.u.c.h.ess of Oldenburg, a young Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, Lady Thornton and Madame Jaures.

We had tea and ices--didn't talk much, except the d.u.c.h.ess of Edinburgh, who seems clever and ready to talk--but I wasn't near her. I didn't see all the Amba.s.sadors, mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Amba.s.sadors and their wives were invited to Her Majesty's tea (no small fry, like Ministers).

I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When the Court moved off to tea General Wolseley suggested that W. should come and smoke a cigar in his room. He was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing and standing. W.

was naturally quite of the same opinion, so they picked up Admiral Seymour (also with the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper. _That_ they couldn't get out of, as we made a fine procession directly behind the Court through all the rooms to St. George's Hall--a great white high room magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls with the names of the Knights of the Order of St. George who had died in battle, and a souper a.s.sis for 800 people. Sir Edward Thornton, British Amba.s.sador, took me. As we were parading through the rooms between two hedges of gaping people looking at the cortege, dresses, diamonds, etc., I thought of Mdme. A---- and her stockings, and wondered how she was getting on. I daresay quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and yellow silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as long as she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she was all right. Someone will find a nice little pair of yellow satin shoes under the window-curtains in the ballroom when the cleaning up is done after the fetes.

The hall was a blaze of light and jewels--a long table across the end for the Imperial party, and all of us at two long tables running the whole length of the room. The gold and silver plate was very handsome, particularly the ma.s.sive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. There was music all the time--singers, men and women, in a gallery singing all sorts of Russian airs which n.o.body listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to supper. He remained standing in the middle of the room talking to his gentlemen, and a few words to the diplomatists when supper was over and one loitered a little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly doesn't care to talk to strangers--seeks them out very little, and when he does talk it is absolutely ba.n.a.l. Is it "paresse d'esprit" or great reserve?--one hardly knows. I should think all this parade and function bored him extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, and what he likes best is the country with his wife and children.

After supper we went back to the ballroom for about half an hour. Then the Court retired and we followed them at once. We got our carriages fairly quickly. There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see the grand-monde pa.s.s. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we drive through--lights everywhere, some high, high up in a queer little octagon green tower--then a great doorway and staircase all lighted, with quant.i.ties of servants and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough pavement in a half dark court and under a little low dark gate with a shrine and Madonna at one end--all so perfectly unmodern, and unlike anything else.

I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but didn't finish, as I was called off by some visits, and now I will try and send this off by to-night's courier. We have had a nice afternoon looking at the Tresor.

Of course it was very hurried--it would take weeks to see everything.

The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. Almost all the carriages are French--either given to the various Russian Sovereigns by French Kings, or ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long voyages is comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons imperiaux" in which we travelled from Varsovie to Moscow.

Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, swords, jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of all the old Emperors from Ivan the Terrible down to the late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the first Ivans and Peters are extraordinary--a sort of high fur cap covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made--the jewels always beautiful, such large stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. There were vitrines full of splendid gold and silver cups and dishes, presents to the Emperor from all the different provinces.

They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent things given to him, but we have not seen them yet. We met various people also going through the Museum, and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know which one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). It seemed funny to go back to the old Roman days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in the Malatesta Palace. He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies and the standing--however, to-night is the end, with our dinner at the Palace.

I have again been interrupted--this time by a visit from the Duc d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. He is not at all expansive and very shy, but when one breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look like anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It is quite the face one would see in any old Spanish picture--a soldier-monk of Velasquez. He talked about the Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the Foreign Office, and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarra.s.sed we all were on the opening day when there were so many Ex-Spanish Sovereigns--King Francois d'a.s.sises, Queen Isabella, and King Amedee.

There was a big reception in the evening at the Elysee, and the Marechal[6] was rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However, Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on the best of terms.

I saw them talking together, and I believe all the Spaniards liked d'Aoste, though naturally they wanted a King of their own race.

[6] MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic.