The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants Part 16

Extract of santal, 1 pint.

" neroli, 1 "

" jasmine, } each, 1/2 "

" rose triple, } " vanilla, 1/4 "

Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz.

We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too much encroached upon the s.p.a.ce of this work in giving the composition of so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular.

Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried.

Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical t.i.tles.

SECTION VII.

The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,--sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c.

&c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures for proofs:--"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, 3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is considered as a sign of humiliation:--"The Lord will take away the tablets, and it shall come to pa.s.s that instead of a sweet smell there shall be a stink." (Exod. 35:22; Isaiah 3:20, 24.) The word tablets in this pa.s.sage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal, wood, and ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of buildings, which would explain the word _palaces_, in Psalm 14:8:--"All thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and ca.s.sia, out of the ivory palaces, whereby they have made thee glad." From what is said in Matt.

2:11, it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most valuable gifts which man could bestow;--"And when they (the wise men) had opened their treasures, they presented unto him (Christ) gifts; gold, and frankincense, and myrrh." As far as we are able to learn, all the perfumes used by the Egyptians and Persians during the early period of the world were _dry_ perfumes, consisting of spikenard (_Nardostachys jatamansi_), myrrh, olibanum, and other gum-resins, nearly all of which are still in use by the manufacturers of odors. Among the curiosities shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken from an Egyptian catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a pleasant odor to the present day, although probably 3000 years old. We have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were for perfuming apartments, in the same way that pot pourri is now used.

SACHET POWDERS.

The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes, find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers.

The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted.

SACHET AU CYPRE.

Ground rose-wood, 1 lb.

" cedar-wood, 1 lb.

" santal-wood, 1 lb.

Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose, 3 drachms.

Mix and sift; it is then fit for sale.

SACHET A LA FRANGIPANNE.

Orris-root powder, 3 lbs.

Vitivert powder, 1/4 lb.

Santal-wood powder, 1/4 lb.

Otto of neroli, } " rose, } of each, 1 drachm.

" santal, } Musk-pods, ground, 1 oz.

The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a Roman of the n.o.ble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-solis, _sun-dew_, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk.

HELIOTROPE SACHET.

Powdered orris, 2 lbs.

Rose leaves, ground, 1 lb.

Tonquin beans, ground, 1/2 lb.

Vanilla beans, 1/4 lb.

Grain musk, 1/4 oz.

Otto of almonds, 5 drops.

Well mixed by sifting in a coa.r.s.e sieve, it is fit for sale.

It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly _au naturel_ in its odor to the flower from which it derives its name, that no person unacquainted with its composition would, for an instant, believe it to be any other than the "real thing."

LAVENDER SACHET.

Lavender flowers, ground, 1 lb.

Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb.

Otto of lavender, 1/4 oz.

SACHET A LA MARECHALE.

Powder of santal-wood, 1/2 lb.

" orris-root, 1/2 lb.

Rose-leaves, ground, 1/4 lb.

Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb.

Ca.s.sia-bark, 1/4 lb.

Grain musk, 1/2 drachm.

SACHET A LA MOUSSELAINE.

Vitivert, in powder, 1 lb.

Santal-wood, } Orris, } each, 1/2 lb.

Black-currant leaves (_ca.s.se_), 1/2 lb.

Benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb.

Otto of thyme, 5 drops.

" roses, 1/2 drachm.

MILLEFLEUR SACHET.

Lavender-flowers, ground, } Orris, } each, 1 lb.

Rose-leaves, } Benzoin, } Tonquin, } Vanilla, } each, 1/4 lb.

Santal, } Musk and civet, 2 drachms.

Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb.

Cinnamon, } each, 2 oz.

Allspice, }

PORTUGAL SACHET.

Dried orange-peel, 1 lb.

" lemon-peel, 1/2 lb.

" orris-root, 1/2 lb.

Otto of orange-peel, 1 oz.

" neroli, 1/4 drachm.